Primrose Villa – Luxury homestay in Chickamagalur

28 Sep

Tucked away amidst 500 acres of verdant greenery and surrounded by mystical hills shrouded in fog, in the Northern part of Chickamagalur is the wonderful new Home Stay – Primrose Villa.

The word home stay normally connotes basic and frugal – Primrose Villa is contrarian – its probably the only Home Stay which on luxury and service can put a 7 Star hotel to shame.


The property is spread across 5 Acres and is part of the 500 Acres Bagane Hedol Coffee Plantation. The Vision behind Primrose Villa is Sumitra who belongs to the 5th generation of the family running the plantation. And she has designed a place that is regal , ethnic and yet classy and contemporary. The family may well find its name in the Forbes list of Karnataka – but the ambience here is down to earth, humble, the level of service  is  very warm and customised and is personally led by Sumitra who has an immaculate eye for perfection. (The family has S Indian Iyengar roots – thats where the level of hospitality and simplicity comes from)


PS : Don’t miss the Raja Ravi Varma painting below which I sam sitting with the gracious and wonderful hostess Sumitra 

The property has 7 Villas and 5 rooms. The rooms are part of the main building but the Villas are spread out and designed in a manner that it provides 100% privacy. Each Villa is set on 1/2  Acre land , is very spacious and has its own sit out and private garden. The rooms are smaller and best suited for couples.


The food is delectable – and you can choose from a wide variety – Indian , Malnad ,    Veg , Non Veg , Continental …. and the highlight is its 24 by 7 availability. You can have breakfast at 11AM and Lunch at 5PM (My bengali friends make note – this suits your timing perfectly) – and its all served fresh and customised. The Rava Dosa is outstanding, so are the Paneer Tikkas, the Phulkas are fresh and fluffy and the Chocolate cake is delicious. My friends devoured the boneless chicken and Fish with gusto – on taste, aesthetics and prompt service its 10/10 on food  – this is one place where you should not plan to be on a diet. Most of the ingredients come from their family farm – and thats what makes it so fresh and tasty.


The property is located at 4700 feet and grows some of the finest Arabica coffee in the country (Coffee grown above 3500 feet is considered Premium). This part of Chickamagalur receives over 100 inches of rain in the monsoon, thats what makes the greenery lush and thick. The Bhadra wild life sanctuary is just a 40 min drive away and the greenery from the estate melts into that of the sanctuary – so be prepared for the occasional wild boar or the rare pug marks of a tiger in your morning trek. The roof of the property is the perfect place to star gaze and immerse yourself in the hills and forests that surround you for miles. The air is fresh and nippy. In the morning the forests and hills are cloaked in mist, which very soon turn to a bright blue sky and by the time its dusk you see a riot of colors  blending in the skyline.


Its calm and quiet and the perfect break for the common man or for celebrities and we were pleasantly surprised to meet S Janaki the legendary singer spending a few days at Primrose.


Activities in the Property are limited to treks, reading books from a well stocked library, watching TV, playing Carrom / Board Games in the common room. Horse riding is available from Oct and a pool room / entertainment room is coming up soon.  Thats a lot for a home stay.

The location of the property is excellent and there is a lot to see close by. Mullayangiri the tallest peak of Karnataka at 6300 feet is a mere 30 min drive away ( The last stretch of the drive is tough – so have a good powerful vechile)


Further away on the same route are the Buttermilk falls and Baba Budangiri Caves. The former is a must visit but you can skip the latter. The drive down this stretch is beautiful and will bring memories of the Scottish highlands and William Wordsworth.


Lots of waterfalls, treks, lakes to see nearby. Belur, Halebidu, Shravanabelagola are best covered while driving from Bangalore or on the return. Most people miss out on the Belavadi temple – another must visit. If you have time you can visit Sringeri & Agumbe a 2 – 3 hrs drive on the picturesque W Ghat. A  2- 3 day trip is what you must plan for at Primrose.

Other Basic facts 

  • Drive time from Bangalore is 5 hrs (with a 30 min break) Roads are excellent
  • Connectivity is patchy and there are few corners where you can get good strong signal.
  • There are no TV’s in the individual villas & room , but there is a TV in the meeting / conference room which can house 8 – 10 people

Primriose Villa was recently featured on the Conde Nast as the 50 best new properties in the world. For more details visit them at

Bangalore Contact for Booking :  + 91 9880932423,

We were here to celebrate  5 years in my current company with my team – we loved it . The highlight of the place is the quality of service and the warm touch of homeliness –  when we were leaving they packed us a sandwich bag and water – just like relatives do. We joked that the only thing missing was the customary  Coconut and Kumkum  – and maybe they will give that if the wives are in tow – thats why I am planning a return with my family very soon.

Thanks Sumitra and team for a memorable trip



Walk Alone

14 Sep

Walk Alone……

“Jodi Tor Dak Shune Keu Na Ase Tobe Ekla Cholo Re” – If no one responds to your call, then go your own way alone”, commonly known as Ekla Chalo Re, is a Bengali  song written by Rabindranath Tagore in 1905 dedicated to Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose.

This is one of the finest memories I carry back with me from the 18 years I spent in Bengal. (Shreya Ghosal singing the song –  For some strange reason I loved the song and I still do – especially on a quiet night in soulitude.

Its enchanting when you listen to this song all by yourself in the midst of nature – sitting in a balcony on a cold wintery night with the mountains surrounding you and a gurgling brook flowing by. You can get different interpretations – it could mean A leader is always on his own alone and it could mean that every man needs to find his own way … eventually.

Every book you read on spirituality talks about the same thing ” search within”. But we get joy in a crowd , in a company of others. It feeds our Ego. They say man is a social animal – is it really so ? Which man the artificial man or the true man ? Once you start enjoying soulitude its addictive.

I was talking about this to a friend in Gurgaon today – telling him how boring it is to be sitting alone in a hotel room (I do that a lot when I am in Gurgaon) and he immediately shared this beautiful poem written by his sister.

A lovely touching poem by Dr Alka Marwaha


When life bogs you down,
And nothing seems your own;
Hold the hands of your mind;
And start walking alone.

When the self is tortured;
by thoughts awry and askew;
Leave the old beaten track,
and walk afresh and anew.

When the path ahead is hazy,
and truth seems obliterated;
Clear the dust off the soul,
and walk re-juvenated.

Happiness lies within,
only source of joy and bliss;
Muster courage to reach out,
and walk out of the abyss.

Observe the highs and the lows;
The ecstasies and the pain;
Watching it all pass by;
With neither love nor disdain.

Walk alone on your path;
With head held high;
Many may join in pursuit;
And many may bid good bye.


The French Revolution – Explained with a few Questions

17 Jul

France is a Tourist paradise – lots of history and culture blended with scenic beauty. I have been to Paris twice and have been fascinated with the French Revolution. When I saw that this was a chapter in the Class 9 CBSE curriculum – summarised the French Revolution in a  few simple FAQ’s as this can be a ready reckoner and a notes page for all history buffs and students of Class 9.


  1. What was the duration of the French Revolution?

Lasting 10 years from 1789 – 1799 the French Revolution was a period of social and political upheaval in France.


  1. Why is the French Revolution such an important event in History? 

Regarded as one of the most important events in history it influenced human society not just in France but also across Europe and the world.

The 10 Key Changes can be summarised as follows

  • The Empire of France became the French Nation – The French nation was born because of the French Revolution
  • End of Monarchy – Before the French Revolution, the Bourbon family was ruling over France. The rulers of this dynasty believed in the theory of divine right of kingship. They ruled as per their own wishes and whims. The French Revolution destroyed their very existence. It established a constitutional form of government and republic in France.
  • Written Constitution – France got her first written constitution due to the French Revolution. It was also the first written constitution of the European continent. It gave the right of franchise to the citizen of France.
  • Declaration of Human Rights – The main result of the French Revolution was that the French people acquired many human rights. They were given the right of equality, freedom of expression, etc. They were free to organize their associations. They got the right to property. They got the equality before the law. They could object to illegal actions of the government officials.
  • Abolition of Feudalism – The Feudal system ended due to the French Revolution. The difference between the privileged and non-privileged class ended. It was an end of the old despotic system.
  • Decrease in the influence of the Church – The influence of the high priests on the society of France ended. The priests took oath on the new constitution to maintain their loyalty to the French nation. The state became the owner of the wealth of the church. The priest started receiving salary from the state. On the other hand, the French people started adopting rational attitude in place of the blind faith based on religious affiliations.
  • Re-Organization of the Judicial System – The National Convention introduced a common judicial system for whole of France. The penal code was made soft and same types of punishments were introduced for the similar type of crimes committed by any person without any discrimination. The judicial system was made independent of the executive and legislator. The ‘Jury System’ was introduced to try the criminal cases.
  • Public Works – Many public welfare works were undertaken due to French Revolution. New roads and canals were constructed. New dams and bridges were built. The land was reclaimed from marshes for farming. The economic infrastructure was improved to promote the trade. The large landholdings of the lords were sold to farmers at cheaper rates. Agriculture was modernized. Such improvements brought amazing changes in the economic strength of France.
  • Changes in the Conditions of Farmers – The condition of farmers improved due to the French Revolution. The revolution ended the feudal system, which liberated the farmers from the burden of unnecessary taxes. They did not have to pay the taxes to the landlords and tithes (the religious tax) to the church.
  • Cultural effects – France made numerous achievements in the field of art, science, and literature due to French Revolution. Numerous schools, colleges, universities, and academies were opened in the country. Special attention was paid to art, literature, science, mathematics, technology, and physical training in the field of education.
  1. What were the main causes that resulted in the French Revolution?

 There are 3 key reasons, which resulted in the French Revolution

  • The common man comprising 98% of the population was upset with the Monarchy, Nobility & Clergy who controlled all decision-making in the country. The Clergy & the Nobility did not pay any taxes – they formed the 1st & 2nd Estate in the French Society.
  • The defective foreign policies of Louis XV (1715-1774) make France economically very weak. The 7-year war against England and the French support to the American Revolution resulted in bankruptcy.
  • The luxurious and extravagant life of the King and his Queen Mary Antoinette at a time when the country was facing severe food shortage amidst the harsh winter of 1788 enraged the people.
  1. What was the Social Structure in France at the time of the French Revolution?

The Social condition of France during the eighteenth century was very miserable. French Society was divided into three classes

  • The Clergy – 1st Estate
  • Nobles – 2nd Estate
  • The Common People – 3rd Estate

The Clergy was subdivided into two groups i.e. the higher clergy and the lower clergy. The higher clergy occupied the top position in the society. They managed the churches, monasteries and educational institutions of France. They did not pay any tax to the monarch. They exploited the common people in various ways. The higher clergy lived in the midst of scandalous luxury and extravagance. The common people had a strong hatred towards the higher clergy. On the other hand, the lower clergy served the people in true sense of the term and they lived a very miserable life.

The Nobility also did not pay any taxes. The Nobility was also sub divided into two groups – the Court nobles and the Provincial nobles. The court nobles lived in pomp and luxury. They did not pay any heed towards the problems of the common people of their areas. On the other hand, the provincial nobles paid their attention towards the problems of the people. But they did not enjoy the same privileges as the Court nobles enjoyed.

The Third Estate formed a heterogeneous class. The farmers, cobblers, sweepers and other lower classes belonged to this class. The condition of the farmers was very miserable. They paid the taxes like Taille, Tithe and Gable. In spite of this, the clergies and the nobles employed them in their fields.

The Bourgeoisie formed the top most group of the Third Estate. The doctors, lawyers, teachers, businessmen, writers and philosophers belonged to this class. They had the wealth and social status. But the French Monarch, influenced by the clergies and nobles, ranked them as the Third Estate.

  1. How was the National Assembly formed? What is the Tennis Court Oath?

The Estates General was reluctantly summoned by King Louis XVI in May of 1789 with an aim to solve the monarchy’s financial crisis. There were three classes represented by the Estates General – the nobles, clergy and the rest of the population or the so-called Third Estate. Each estate had only one vote. As a result, the nobility and clergy could always overrule the Third Estate. Fearing they would be forced to bear the burden of the financial crisis, the members of the Third Estate decided to form their own National Assembly.

On June 17, emboldened by the joining of some of the nobility and the clergy, the Third Estate declared itself the National Assembly of France, imploring the remainder of the Estates-General to join the Assembly.

King Louis XVI was outraged at the audacity of the Third Estate. On June 19, only two days after the National Assembly convened itself, Louis ordered the Estates to separate and the building in which the National Assembly met closed.

On June 20th – The next morning, finding their entry barred, the members of the National Assembly met across the street in one of the king’s indoor tennis courts. They then created and pledged the Tennis Court Oath to remain sitting until the National Assembly had written a French Constitution

This was an important moment and the first formal voice of dissent against the King by the 3rd Estate. It received tremendous support from Paris.


  1. What were the events that resulted in the storming of the Bastille? Why is this day still celebrated?

The Bastille was a medieval fortress. By the 17th century, it had been converted into a state prison. Many Parisians came to despise the Bastille as a symbol of despotism and tyranny of the monarchy. The Bastille reminded Parisians of everything that was wrong with their country.

Post the formation of the National Assembly and its huge wave of support in Paris – the king had sent troops to Paris. On 11th July 1789 – the king fired his finance minister Jacques Necker – the 3rd estate saw him as a minister sympathetic with their cause. They feared that this was a coup by the conservative elements in the Kings court. There were also rumours that the newly formed National Assembly would be shut down. For the 3rd estate all this was a trigger to act – and the Bastille was the perfect place to express their resentment.

On July 14th an angry and aggressive mob marched towards the Bastille and laid siege. They demanded the huge ammunition stores held within the prison walls. When the prison governor refused to comply, the mob charged and, after a violent battle, eventually took charge of the Bastille. The governor was seized and killed, his head carried round the streets on a spike. The victorious mob tore the Bastille apart brick by brick. Violence was now accepted. The storming of the Bastille symbolically marked the beginning of the French Revolution.

France has celebrated July 14th as a National holiday since the late 19th century. The holiday commemorates the storming of the Bastille – and the launch of the French revolution.

philippoteaux_Lamartine at HdeV 1848

  1. What is the August Decree?

Peasants and farmers alike, who had been suffering under high prices and unfair feudal contracts, began to wreak havoc in rural France. This sparked a hysteria called the Great Fear. Starting around July 20, 1789, and continuing through the first days of August, the Great Fear spread through sporadic pockets of the French countryside. Peasants attacked country manors and estates, in some cases burning them down in an attempt to escape their feudal obligations. In an effort to quell the destruction, the assembly issued the August Decrees, which nullified many of the feudal obligations that the peasants had to their landlords. For the time being, the countryside calmed down.

  1. What was the declaration of Rights of man and of the Citizen?

 The Declaration of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen is one of the most important papers of the French Revolution. It explains a list of rights, such as freedom of religion, freedom of speech, freedom of assembly and separation of powers. All men have these rights. it did not say anything about the rights or role of women. It also did not talk about slavery. People now think that it was an important step towards international human rights

It was adopted on Aug 26th 1789 by the National Constituent Assembly – and formed a key foundation to the Constitution.


  1. When was the 1st French Constitution adopted?

In September 1791, the National Assembly released its much-anticipated Constitution of 1791, which created a constitutional monarchy, or limited monarchy, for France. This move allowed King Louis XVI to maintain control of the country, even though he and his ministers would have to answer to new legislature, which the new constitution dubbed the Legislative Assembly. The constitution also succeeded in eliminating the nobility as a legal order and struck down monopolies and guilds. It established a poll tax and barred servants from voting, ensuring that control of the country stayed firmly in the hands of the middle class

The Declaration of the Rights of Man, adopted on 27 August 1789 eventually became the preamble of the constitution adopted on 30 September 1791.

  1. State the significance of the Women’s March to Versailles on Oct 5th, 1789?

Faced with severe food crisis over 7000 women marched to the palace of Versailles. They stormed the palace and massacred the guards. They demanded that the king distribute the food hoarded in the palace, sanction the decree of the Rights of man and the citizen. They also wanted the royal family to shift to Paris and see the plight of the common man. This King had no choice – once in Paris they effectively became prisoners of the 3rd Estate until their executions in 1791.

The Women’s march is an epoch event

  • It brought an end to the great monarchy of Versailles
  • It transformed the role of women in the revolution
  • One month after the march to Versailles they would present to the National Assembly a ground breaking demand for gender equality
  1. Did Mary Antoinette ever make the comment “ Let them eat Cake if they have no Bread”

“Let them eat cake” is the traditional translation of the French phrase “Qu’ils mangent de la brioche“, supposedly spoken by Mary Antoinette upon learning that the peasants had no bread. There is no record to prove that this statement was every made. But it does reflect the state of the French Nation during the French Revolution and how the royals were in a world of their own blissfully unaware of the challenges faced by the common man. Mary Antoinette a princess from Austria married to the ruling monarch became an object of hatred for the pompous manner in which she flaunted her wealth at times of distress. She was eventually sent to the Guillotine like her husband.





Fore more on Marie Antoinette read this blog :

12. Who were the Jacobins & the Girondins ?

Divisions quickly formed within the new Legislative Assembly, which coalesced into two main camps. On one side were the Jacobins, a group of radical liberals who wanted to drive the Revolution forward aggressively. The Jacobins wanted to forgo the constitutional monarchy and declare France a republic. They were against the execution of the King. The moderate Girondins deemed a constitutional monarchy essential.

The radical wing of representatives in the National Convention, named for their secret meeting place in the Jacobin Club, in an abandoned Paris monastery. Led by Maximilien Robespierre, the Jacobins called for democratic solutions to France’s problems and spoke for the urban poor and French peasantry. The Jacobins took control of the convention, and France itself, from 1793 to 1794. As Robespierre became increasingly concerned with counterrevolutionary threats, he instituted a brutal period of public executions known as the Reign of Terror. In September 1793, twenty-one prominent Girondists were guillotined, beginning the Reign of Terror.


  1. Who was Maximillen de Robespierre?

Maximilien de Robespierre was a brilliant politician and a radical Jacobin leader. He was one of the principal figures in the French Revolution. In the latter months of 1793 he came to dominate the Committee of Public Safety, the principal organ of the Revolutionary government during the Reign of Terror, but in 1794 he was overthrown and guillotined.

At age 30, Robespierre was elected to the Estates General of the French legislature. He became increasingly popular with the people for his attacks on the French monarchy and his advocacy for democratic reforms. He also opposed the death penalty and slavery.

In April 1789, Robespierre was elected president of the powerful Jacobin political faction. A year later, he participated in writing the Declaration of the Rights of Man and Citizen, the foundation of the French constitution. He successfully argued for the execution of the king and continued to encourage the crowds to rise up against the aristocracy.


  1. What was the Committee of Public Safety?

A body, chaired by Maximilien Robespierre, to which the National Convention gave dictatorial powers in April 1793 in an attempt to deal with France’s wars abroad and economic problems at home. Although the committee led off its tenure with an impressive war effort and economy-salvaging initiatives, things took a turn for the worse when Robespierre began his violent Reign of Terror in late 1793.

  1. What was the Reign of Terror?

On July 27, 1793, Maximilien Robespierre was elected to the Committee of Public Safety, formed to oversee the government with virtual dictatorial control.

Faced with pressures both from the outside and from within, the Revolutionary government instituted the Reign of Terror in September. In the next 11 months, 300,000 suspected enemies of the Revolution were arrested and more than 17,000 were executed, most by guillotine. In the orgy of bloodshed, Robespierre was able to eliminate many of his political opponents.

  1. How did Maximillen de Robespierre meet his end?

Seemingly intoxicated with the power over life and death, Robespierre called for more purges and executions. By the summer of 1794, many in the Revolutionary government began to question his motives, as the country was no longer threatened by outside enemies. An awkward coalition of moderates and revolutionaries formed to oppose Robespierre and his followers.

On July 27, 1794, Robespierre and many of his allies were arrested and taken to prison. He was able to escape with the aid of a sympathetic jailer and hid in the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall) in Paris. When he received word that the National Convention had declared him an outlaw, he tried to commit suicide, but succeeded only in wounding his jaw. Shortly after, troops from the National Convention stormed the building and seized and arrested Robespierre and his followers. The next day, he and 21 of his allies were executed at the guillotine.

  1. What happened to the Catholic Church during the French Revolution?

The dechristianisation of France during the French Revolution is a conventional description of the results of a number of separate policies conducted by various governments of France between the start of the French Revolution in 1789 and 1801.

The goal of the campaign was the destruction of Catholic religious practice and of the religion itself. The National assembly took over the Church property and the Church became a department of the state effectively removing it from papal authority.

 In September 1792, the Legislative Assembly legalized divorce, contrary to Catholic doctrine. At the same time, the State took control of the birth, death, and marriage registers away from the Church. An ever-increasing view that the Church was a counter-revolutionary force exacerbated the social and economic grievances and violence erupted in towns and cities across France.

This resulted in the Sep massacre of 1792 where more than 200 priests were massacred by angry mobs.

 18. What is the association of “ the National Razor”, “ St Guillotine” or the commonly known Guillotine with the French Revolution?

The origins of the French guillotine date back to late 1789, when Dr. Joseph-Ignace Guillotin proposed that the French government adopt a gentler method of execution.

Although he was personally opposed to capital punishment, Guillotin argued that decapitation by a lightning-quick machine would be more humane and egalitarian than sword and axe beheadings, which were often botched. He later helped oversaw the development of the first prototype, an imposing machine designed by French doctor Antoine Louis and built by a German named Tobias Schmidt. The device claimed its first official victim in April 1792, and quickly became known as the “guillotine”—much to the horror of its supposed inventor.

The famed guillotine became perhaps the foremost symbol of the French Revolution and the Reign of Terror that followed in 1793-94, during which as many as 16,000 people were executed.

(The Guillotine was used in Nazi Germany – Adolf Hitler made the guillotine a state method of execution in the 1930s, and ordered that 20 of the machines be placed in cities across Germany. According to Nazi records, the guillotine was eventually used to execute some 16,500 people between 1933 and 1945, many of them resistance fighters and political dissidents. It survived in France till 1977 – when France abolished capital punishment) 

Marie Antoinette's execution in 1793 at the Place de la Révolution.

Marie Antoinette’s execution in 1793 at the Place de la Révolution.

  1. Why was war declared on Austria during the French Revolution?

By 1792 European Monarchs were eyeing France with suspicion. They had seen the overthrow of Louis XVI and were worried that revolutionary fervour would spread to their countries.

In response to Louis XVI’s capture and forced return to Paris, Prussia and Austria issued the Declaration of Pillnitz on August 27, 1791, warning the French against harming the king and demanding that the monarchy be restored. The declaration also implied that Prussia and Austria would intervene militarily in France if any harm came to the king.

Prussia and Austria’s initial concern was simply for Louis XVI’s well-being, but soon the countries began to worry that the French people’s revolutionary sentiment would infect their own citizens. The Declaration of Pillnitz was issued to force the French Revolutionaries to think twice about their actions and, if nothing else, make them aware that other countries were watching the Revolution closely.

In France the public opinion was for War. There was also a feeling that the powerful family of Marie Antoinette who ruled Austria would seek revenge for the actions against the king and the queen. The revolutionaries wanted War because they thought that would unite the country. They also felt that if they waited foreign powers would attack and defeat the country and it would be back to the same old monarchy.

On April 1792 the Legislative Assembly of France declared war on Austria. Initially the French fared badly the army became successful as the war progressed.

  1. Who was Napoleon and how did he rise during the French Revolution ?

Napoleon became associated with Augustin Robespierre, the brother of revolutionary leader Maximilien Robespierre. During this time, Napoleon was promoted to the rank of brigadier general in the army.

In 1795, Napoleon helped suppress a royalist insurrection against the revolutionary government in Paris and was promoted to major general.

In 1796, Napoleon commanded a French army that defeated the larger armies of Austria, one of his country’s primary rivals, in a series of battles in Italy. In 1797, France and Austria signed the Treaty of Campo Formio, resulting in territorial gains for the French.

The following year, the Directory, the five-person group that had governed France since 1795, offered to let Napoleon lead an invasion of England. Napoleon determined that France’s naval forces were not yet ready to go up against the superior British Royal Navy. Instead, he proposed an invasion of Egypt in an effort to wipe out British trade routes with India. Napoleon’s troops scored a victory against Egypt’s military rulers, the Mamluks, at the Battle of the Pyramids in July 1798; soon, however, his forces were stranded after his naval fleet was nearly decimated by the British at the Battle of the Nile in August 1798. In early 1799, Napoleon’s army launched an invasion of Ottoman-ruled Syria, which ended with the failed siege of Acre, located in modern-day Israel. That summer, with the political situation in France marked by uncertainty, the ever-ambitious and cunning Napoleon opted to abandon his army in Egypt and return to France.

In November 1799, in an event known as the coup of 18 Brumaire, Napoleon was part of a group that successfully overthrew the French Directory.

The Directory was replaced with a three-member Consulate, and Napoleon became first consul, making him France’s leading political figure. In June 1800, at the Battle of Marengo, Napoleon’s forces defeated one of France’s perennial enemies, the Austrians, and drove them out of Italy. The victory-helped cement Napoleon’s power as first consul.


  1. What role did Napoleon play in post-revolutionary France?

 Napoleon worked to restore stability to post-revolutionary France. He centralized the government, instituted reforms in such areas as banking and education, supported science and the arts and sought to improve relations between his regime and the Pope (who represented France’s main religion, Catholicism), which had suffered during the revolution.

One of his most significant accomplishments was the Napoleonic Code, which streamlined the French legal system and continues to form the foundation of French civil law to this day.

In 1802, a constitutional amendment made Napoleon first consul for life. Two years later, in 1804, he crowned himself emperor of France in a lavish ceremony at the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris.

(Napoleon is a very interesting historic personality – battle of Trafalgar , Waterloo and the failed Russian conquest make for very interesting reading)

  1. How did the French Revolution End?

With a strong leader like Napoleon at the helm – the Revolution ended and France entered a 15-year period of military rule.

During these years, Napoleon re – established a French aristocracy (eliminated in the French Revolution) and began handing out titles of nobility to his loyal friends and family as his empire continued to expand across much of western and central continental Europe. In a way monarchy of a different sort was getting established.



Picture Perfect Krakow – In 36 Hrs

12 Jul

When most Indians thinks of Europe for travel  – they  think of London, Paris, Rome – Italy , Switzerland and maybe Amsterdam. All these are great cities and I have loved visiting them but Krakow, Prague and Budapest have been on my to do visit list for long – and finally I managed a weekend trip to Krakow.

A little bit about Krakow & Poland 

  • The history of Poland results from the migrations of Slavs who established permanent settlements on the Polish lands during the Early Middle Ages – around 966 AD. The country adopted Catholic Christianity.
  • Around 1795 after a series of invasions and partitions of Polish territory carried out by the Russian Empire, the Kingdom of Prussia, and the Austrian Habsburg Monarchy Poland ceased to exist as a country till 1918.  After 21 years in 1939 Russia and Nazi Germany invaded Poland and demolished the country  during WW 2.
  • Till 1990 Poland was part of the East Bloc – a communist country – the country has flourished since 1990 under a open market – thanks to their hard work ethics.
  • Krakow is the 2nd largest city in Poland after Warsaw – its history goes back to 966 AD and over the last 1100 years it has miraculously avoided and destruction – though it was the Capital of Poland for more than 700 years. Poland today has a population of 38 M – and Krakow a population of less than 1M
  • The Polish language – with close similarity to Russian was developed around 1600 – Poland has many neighbours – Russia, Lithuania, Ukraine, Czechoslovakia, Belarus, Slovakia and Germany
  • Krakow can get seriously cold in winter ( – 20 Degrees) July to Oct is the best time visit – days are long from 5 AM to 10 PM and the weather is a pleasant 25 Degrees
  • 1 Polish Zloty ~ 17 INR , the city is very affordable. Salaries are still low and the average salary is $ 600 / month for a school teacher , bank / hotel front office staff.

Why did I want to visit Krakow 

For some strange reason I have been wanting to visit the Nazi concentration camp at Aushwitz. WW 2 fascinates me and having read a lot about Aushwitz – its been on my must visit last for the last 5 years. But lucky me Aushwitz was interesting – but Old City Krakow and its charming localities were  more fascinating.

Getting to Krakow 

Its a 2 hr flight from London – Ryan Air and Easy Jet have many daily flights from Stanstead airport (The cab fare to Stanstead from Central London can be more expensive than the air fare) – there is a 1 hr time lag – so my 8.50AM flight reached Krakow at 12 Noon – and I was in the Sheraton by 1.15 afternoon. Krakow airport is small – Schengen Visa – and the distance from the airport to the city centre is 15 – 20 min. The Sheraton is a lovely affordable property in the centre of old town – facing the river front – 100 m away from the Castle. ( Sheraton Krakow rooms were ~ $90/night)

What are the main things to do in Krakow 

I would say 3 must do activities – of which the 1st and the 3rd are UNESCO world heritage cites.

  1. Old Town tour
  2. A visit to Aushwitz and Birkenau
  3. A Visit to the Wieliczska Salt Mine

1. The Old Town tour will take 3 – 4 hrs and most of it can be covered by walk. Important areas to visit include the main market square, St Mary’s Basilica, The University (where Copernicus studied)  and Wavel Castle. You must also visit the Schindler Museum, Old Jewish Town (And here is where you have an Indian restaurant)  and the Ghetto area.

The town is charming – cobbled streets, nice shops, lively crowd – the evening the shops and pubs are brimming with energy – there is live music in the square. I took a guide – because language is a problem and I wanted to make the most of the limited time I had. Some snaps of this picture perfect Old Town. The Town Square is large – imagine the vision to design something liked this a 1000 years back.

I started at 2 and was done by 6 – a Bit rushed at the Schindler museum where I could have spent more time – but we covered everything – 80 % by walk and a few short rides by Cab. After some rest – I was back at the Market square at 7.30 for  nice dinner with live music and back in my room by 9.30 at the lovely Sheraton that is located centrally opposite to the Castle

The Castle 


Main Market Square and Basilica 


Lots of fun stuff happening in the streets 


Old Jewish town at Szeroka 


2. Aushwitz & Birkenau

Day – 2 was very busy. I started with a early morning walk by the river and reached a beautiful park that surrounds the old town. It was fresh and green and quiet – all to myself at 5.30 AM. A sumptuous breakfast and we ready for a group tour to Aushwitz. Its a 1 hr drive from Krakow.

Although called Aushwitz – there were two Camps Aushwitz and Birkenau. They were the largest Nazi concentration & death camp where about 1.1 Mn – mainly Jews died. Aushwitz was smaller – 6 hectares and Birkanau was 25 times larger. But Aushwitz had a higher density.


People to these camps came from Poland (Political Prisoners) , Russian Prisoners of War , Jews from Poland, Hungary , Austria , Germany and Gypsies from Hungary and Romania.  Many came from Hungary packed into Trains – 80 to 100 in a wagon – long journeys of 2 – 3 days. The journey was a torture and many died in transit. They were lucky.


On reaching Birkenau they were sorted – the old, weak, pregnant, small kids – who could not work where sent directly to the gas chambers and the others to the concentration camps. Work was gruelling – 11 hrs , and food was hardly any – 2 cups of coffee in the morning , a bowl of soup for lunch and few slices of bread and a small piece of meat for dinner – all put together less than 1000 calories. Bitter cold of Poland, poor sanitation and back breaking work – hardly anyone survived for more than 6 months. The message was work hard – “work will set you free”


At Aushwitz there were 700 – 1200 people in each building , each bunker was shared by 2 people, and there were 20 toilets and 1 washroom to be shared in a building. Punishment for the smallest of crimes was cruel and people were banished to suffocation rooms, starvations cells and many were shot or hanged at the slightest provocation. Inspite of this some survived when the red army came in 1945 – and of them 300 survivors came to Birkenau last year to celebrate the 70th anniversary of freedom.


Over 1500 people were terminated in the Gas chambers in one shot – took 20 minutes for the deadly gas to take effect – post that their bodies were picked dry, hair was used for making mats, gold teeth were extracted, and the cremated ash was used as fertilisers.


The scale of death and pain is unimaginable and it was done with German precision – extermination of Jews with 6 Sigma precision.

We reached Aushwitz at 9.30 and after the tour of both the places was back in the hotel by 3 PM – just in time to grab a quick lunch and then rush on a private tour to the world famous salt mines. The hotel had arranged a brand new Merc and the driver entertained me with nuggets of Poland and local history on the 20 min drive.

3. The Wieliczska salt mines are almost 500 years old. At one time they provided  30% of the country’s revenues. Salt was as expensive as gold in 1600 – 1700. A tonne of salt could buy a village with 200 people. Salt was important to preserve meat and food. Right from the Roman times a cup of salt was a form of currency – and the word Salary owes its origin to the humble cup of Salt.


The mines are deep – almost 1000 feet deep – but the guided tour takes us down to about 400 feet. You walk down and come up a lift – a lot of walking in the 3 hrs you spend at the mines – almost 3 – 4 kms. It is tiring – but you are welcome to lick the salt on the walls anytime to regain some energy – or take a deep breath in the pools of crystal clean green water saturated with rich rock salt. Excavation results in the mine becoming unstable – hence each cavern after excavation is propped up by logs – in all 1 M cubic foot of wood has been used to prop up the mine.


The creative part – lots of amazing sculptures are visible – any famous visitor and those from biblical times are prominently exhibited in the caverns , chapels and alleys. There are about 300 kms of tunnels – a labyrinth of pathways deep down – in the 3 km we walked we probably did not cover even 1 %. But that itself was fascinating and tiring. The entire route is very well maintained, well lit and worthy of a UNESCO heritage site.


I finished the mine trip by 7 PM and headed back to town – a lovely dinner at the Indian restaurant ( I was famished with so much of walking) and back in the room at 9 PM – it as a long day but I wanted to get done with the blog as my memory was fresh.

One last thing – the people of Krakow are soft spoken  very professional and helpful – when they start talking in Polish they accelerate and run like a train at 100 mph  – and Monika at the concierge was the perfect example of a local citizen. I was in touch her a few days back trying to get my bookings done for the tours etc – she was super responsive and very articulate on email and when I met her I could see energy and professionalism gushing all over – and she has been at the same job for 10 years – hats off – wish more Indians could have her work ethics. Thank you Monika – you and the Sheraton were the perfect hosts for these 36 hrs – and thank you for making this a memorable trip


Emotions – Journey to self awareness

3 Jul

The face is the reflection of the mind. If you are angry, joyful or afraid – it is very visible on your face. So what is Anger, Joy & Fear – 3 key emotions. Which brings us to the question – What is an Emotion?

A very simple explanation would be – Its a physiological reflex reaction triggered by perceptions in the brain. 

And what forms these perceptions?  A lot it comes from evolution. Man has been traced to existence 1M years before Christ – Agriculture is traced no more than 25,000 BC. What this means is that man has lived as a nomad/hunter/wanderer for 975,000 years – that is 40 times longer than he has been settled down as an agriculturalist. And a lot of our emotions come from this background. Those 975,000 years survival was key – and your reflexes were all tuned towards survival.

Emotions are thus influenced by 3 things

  • Our Basic Personality – DNA , Soul we inherited ….
  • Values & Beliefs – a lot of that determined by surroundings , culture
  • Our Behaviour – Is a function of the first two


Our basic personality is hard coded and its very difficult to change that – but we can definitely change our Values & Beliefs and our Basic personality over an extended period of time. For e.g. Crying is good – it relieves stress but in most cultures the belief is that men cannot cry and its OK for women to cry. Similiarly women are not supposed to express their anger openly. These are beliefs that we can start to change with our children.

Changing our Values/Belief and thereby our Personality is a long journey – and thats where the importance of Self Awareness comes in. And this is the link between Emotional Intelligence and Spirituality. As Ramana Maharishi stated – the journey starts when you ask the Question – Who am I ?

A self aware person is in control of his emotions – there is a big difference between “being in control” and “suppressing” –  the former is good the latter is bad. Anything that is suppressed will come out violently like a volcano. Most health problems are a cause of suppressed emotions – the whole schema of Psychosomatic illness stems from suppressing your feelings and emotions.

The Daniel Goleman model talks of this extensively and explains the core components of Emotional Intelligence under two heads

  • Self Management – Self Awareness, Self Regulation & Motivation
  • Ability to relate to Others – Empathy & Social Skills


The first step you need to take is to acknowledge that YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE for your emotions – blaming others, the surroundings, the environment, destiny, fate – living in self pity is not going to help.

Lets take a simple example – Mr X is paranoid about being punctual – he gets wild if people are not on time. Who is responsible for Mr X being angry ? Most of us would say its because the other person was not punctual – but the reality is you cannot change others. If Mr X wants to be happy – he needs to change his belief system  from being punctual is a commandment to its Ok if you are late.

Self Awareness helps you to peel the onion and get to the depth of understanding what are your core values and beliefs which you stick to – and take a real hard look at them – see if the are the cause of anxieties and slowly start working on letting go of them.

Emotions are nothing but an energy – we are all billions of electrons spinning around – we are all waves. Anger is an energy like a tornado, a smile and a radiant face is an energy wave like a breeze in a  beautiful park – you can decide which energy wave you want to be , a murderous storm or a pleasant breeze in the park. Even in anger you can be aggressive , assertive or passive – being assertive shows you are in control of your emotions.

Positive energy creates more positive energy – which bring us to the topic of Strokes. The whole world is hungry for a compliment, a few words of praise – and the whole world is stingy – it costs nothing – But we are full of criticism and struggle to compliment. Facebook operates on the concept of positive Strokes – a Like is nothing but a positive stroke. When a child comes running and says I cam 3rd in class – you say OK but who came 1st & 2nd. A key thing to being happy is to be more open with compliments and positive strokes – it does make the world a better place and what goes out will soon come back to make you happy.

Research has shown that in high performance teams the Ratio of positive to Negative comments is 6 : 1 , the tipping points is 3 : 1 . This is not just at work but can be practised at home also. Everyone needs a positive stroke – so don’t be stingy.

Finally there are a set of 5 common drivers around which almost all of can be bracketed – you can always be a mix and match of a few but there will be one driver that is your main trait.  Drivers give us an insight into peoples behaviours and help us to build relationships more effectively. Based on the work of Taibi Kahler there is a test by which you can measure your main drivers.

The 5 Drivers – Which one are you 

  • Be Perfect – “I have to square up the blocks accurately” – perfect accuracy is very important
  • Hurry Up –  ” I want to this on time” – Speed is very important
  • Please people – “I will look around to see who is watching me” – Don’t take strong stands want everyone to be happy with them
  • Be Strong – ” I will sit on the floor rather than the table” – as if discomfort gives it added benefits
  • Try Hard  – ” I will try it out horizontally first” – as if the extra effort was worthwhile

In summary – its good to reflect and invest in your self development. Reading books , discussing with friends is good – but take one more step. I did that and attended a wonderful 2 day training on Emotional Intelligence conducted by Aruna (She runs a Training company called Navgati – – in 2 days you get to learn so much from someone who is experienced and well read and is a wonderful facilitator. If you are at the right frame of mind a training like this can help you accelerate on your journey to self awareness




Shreyas Retreat – Bangalore’s best kept secret

2 Jul

About 50 Km and 90 Min drive away from the chaos,mad rush, choked potholed roads of Bangalore lies a bit of paradise. Shreyas Retreat is an amazing  25 acre property located at Nelamangala on the Tumkur road. (You will have the last mile problem in locating it – so keep the phone number handy to call. Google Maps identifies the place but does not work)

I am always on the lookout for these unique classy nature resorts and I am surprised that Shreyas has never come up in any search or has  been mentioned by anyone till date – like they say the worlds best things are not advertised. It was purely by chance after I had made my booking at Ananda that I came to know of this place from a Yoga Instructor at my gym – one look at the website and I cancelled Ananda – No Regrets.


Shreyas is a sprawling property spread across 25 acres. Its verdant and green, well maintained, lots of trees , a touch of rustiness – its natural and alive. The minute you walk in and spend a few minutes you realise that this place has the right energy balance – its just perfect.


It has only 12 rooms – 8 garden cottages , 3 pool side rooms and a 3 Bedroom cottage. The rooms are large, airy, lots of sunlight – the bathroom is large and extends to a nice open courtyard (Hot water 24 by 7) . The Decor was to my liking –  classy and rustic (not glitzy and overdone like the palace of the maharaja of Eyesore). The Garden Cottages have a nice verandah. Rooms have AC / Fan / Wi Fi / Good Lighting / Kettle / A Safe / Nice study Table / Decent Storage – No TV.


Its a Yoga retreat and they have two Yoga Halls – an outdoor open hall and an indoor one that doubles up as a meditation hall / meeting room – They also have meditation huts in a few other places. The unique thing – they conduct Yoga and chanting sessions even for their staff – lucky staff !


The group yoga sessions happen at 6.30 AM and at 4 PM – the quality of the Yoga Teachers is outstanding and the practise is very energising.  I started my day at 4.30 AM with meditation  till 6.15 and then did the group session from 6.30 to 8.10 AM – all those twists, stretches and Surya Namaskars – I was famished for breakfast. And I was not dissapointed


Food is pure Veg (No Eggs) – very healthy and tasty – served in style. This is the type of healthy breakfast you must have every day. Lunch and dinner is also simple and homely – here is a sample menu of what I was served for dinner. All the food is freshly prepared , can be customised and is very very tasty. Also not that there is no liquor served , and consumption is also not allowed. Food is served for breakfast , lunch . dinner – set menu. No room service – no restaurant where you can order for Chai and Pakoda at 4 on a  rainy day.


The Spa is small but very well maintained and offers both Swedish and Ayurvedic therapies. Its calm and serene and the breeze wafting through the bamboo curtains ads to the charm. The quality of therapists is best in class and its money well spent. Spa Therapies are not very cheap – a 60 min session can put you back by Rs 3600. But the good thing – the 60 min session actually stretches to 75 min or more.


Another well maintained WOW spot is the 3 acre organic garden – it grows a variety of fruits  (Jackfruit, Mangoes, Chickoo, Custard Apple, Jamun, Sweet lime) many vegetables (Beans, Variety of Gourds, Brinjal, Okra, Papaya and Spinach) and lots of herbs (Basil, Mint, Rosemary, Lemon Grass, Brahmi, Triphala, Borage etc) – I love natural farms and spent a long time in this place


Adding to the rustic element is the sound of a Train chugging away once every 2 hrs – the rail track is not very far away and this adds to the charm of a holiday.

What else – well a few more things

1. A nice cobbled stone pathway / track around the property for long walks or jogs

2. A beautiful swimming pool and a Jacuzzi

3. An Open air amphi theatre and a movie auditorium – very well stocked with DVD’s

4. A Small conference room that can host 20

5. A well stocked Library

6. Wi Fi that works across the Resort – Excellent 3G network also

7. Its plastic free – so no Bisleri bottles

8. Pets not allowed ( Thats sad – I am sure the dogs cooped up in apartments would have loved the nature and open spaces as much as us)

Which brings me to the question that many may ask – Are children allowed ?

Unfortunately the answer is YES – you come to a place like Shreyas to unwind and connect with yourself. To Recharge and find out answers to some basic questions. Its best to come alone or with a close friend / spouse / soulmate.

I say unfortunately – because although Kids are allowed they may not have much to keep themselves busy. And the last thing you want in a property like this are pesky brats shouting and demanding attention. So if your family is a highly evolved one and your kids enjoy soulitude and can manage without TV and a stream of activities – please do come over – else figure out an alternative solution.

So who is the ideal Target Audience – I met a few people – a lady from Turkey who is here for 17 days , and another lady who is here on her fourth trip. Thats the target audience – people who want to spend time with nature , be on their own and enjoy nature, healthy food and world class hospitality. Its not a family destination – not a weekend binge party for your 40th birthday

Not advertised but the place is pretty busy most of the time – I was lucky. The weather was perfect – no rains – only 3 occupants including me. The service was perfect. Really am not able to think of a single thing that was not perfect – everything happened on time, service was soft, warm and classy all through my stay.


Will I come back – yes I will definitely come back – the cost is steep and it does pinch to pay $ 300/night (Inclusive of all food / yoga sessions etc) – but thats the price mankind will have to pay for having messed up with nature. Two nights in Shreyas can make you feel fresh and energised –  no wonder the rishis in the himalaya by the sacred rivers become so evolved – living all their lives in this setting – nature , soulitude and less people – thats what you pay for – and sadly we seem to be hunting for these spots and recreating them in enclaves after spoiling them on mother earth. Its worth having a debate on what man has achieved in the last 50 years – is it a boon or a curse.

One more thing (As Steve Jobs always said in his memorable presentations) – Shreyas is owned by a NRI Business Magnate but is managed by Relais & Chateaux – this is a global hospitality company that runs some amazing resorts across the world. The standard they deliver is outstanding – and I am sure the experience they deliver will be too.

Here is a list of the other properties they have in India / Sri Lanka & Maldives – I have not been to any – but I now have a list to get working on.

  • Shakti 360 Leti – Uttrakhand
  • Samode Safari Lodge – MP
  • The Serai – Jaisalmer
  • Mihir Garh – Rajasthan
  • Sher Bagh – Rajasthan
  • The Malabar House – Kerala
  • Niraamaya Surya Samudra – Kerala
  • Purity – Kerala
  • Soneva Fushi – Maldives
  • Ceylon Tea Trails – Sri Lanka
  • Cape Welligama – Sri Lanka

Some More Photos

Front room of the 3 bedroom Cottage 


Dinner Table by the poolside


Lilies and more greenery


Toasted bed with Scrambled Tofu – tastes like Bhurjee – must try at home


A small neat temple in the premises of Shreyas 


A Nice wooden sculpture of Rama – Sita – Hanuman , Has Thai features 


The Movie auditorium 


A sample day at Shreyas 


Hop Skip & Jump – 3 Key Phases in your life

4 Jun

Have you seen how in a marathon all the runners jostle together as a crowd for some time and then a few start taking the lead. My observation is that is exactly what happens in life – and I have seen three distinct phases in which it happens.


The first break out happens when you are 13 years old – in Class 8 – 9. Till then most kids and their parents are not overly stressed and life is easy. But come Class 8 – Class 9 you see a bunch of kids suddenly topping the charts consistently. Their attitude changes, they become more mature, serious and studious , and the friends circle also changes. Its crucial to observe this in your kids and the last point of the company they keep makes a big impact. So help them be connected with the right circle of friends.

Class 8 – 12 is a very crucial phase in India. In a highly competitive country – where you don’t get too many chances acing your 12th is a very important phase to stay ahead of the millions. There was a time when intelligent kids made it without too much of hard work – but today you need brains and slog to succeed. And all the kids who have done so well and bask in the glory of their 12th results will vouch for this. As they stand at the doorstep of a good college – they have opened the doors to a good education ,  smart peers, and an advantage in terms of a getting a good break in their careers. Yes there are many kids and parents with $$ power who avoid the mad rush of the Indian rat race and decide to take SAT and apply to US Colleges. A College degree in the US is 200,000 $ (1.2 Crores) Vs 10 – 15 Lacs in India in the best of institutes. And the best gift your kid can give you to is to do well and get an admission to good Indian College.

The second break out happens when you get your first job. You are around 22 – 23 now. Of the 14 M graduates in India – a few thousand will bag the best of jobs putting them at a significant advantage over the others.

Graduates Lifting Mortarboards --- Image by © Royalty-Free/Corbis

Graduates Lifting Mortarboards — Image by © Royalty-Free/Corbis

Like a good school , college and community a good 1st job is so crucial in life. A respected company where you can learn and build your corporate values. Once you get a good break hang in there for some time – at least 5 years. Companies are always on the lookout for the smart ones and a few years later a few will slowly but surely stand out in the crowd and move faster up the Corporate ladder. Its hard work, Competency , Pleasant personality and a bit of YES Boss Culture that can get you on the fast track. You can stay in the same company or move jobs – always keeping an eye on being relevant in the job market and ensuring that you are not missing the next big wave ( IT, BPO, Telecom , eCommerce – we have seen so many waves in India since the 90’s)

The third break comes around the mid to late 30’s – when you make it to the big league. You start to run a  business or become a Sr VP or a Country Manager. You made it in the rat race – you have hit the 1m $ salary in India , you own a few mansions, you have a jet setting life, you are disappointed when the airlines does not upgrade you from Business Class to 1st Class and your holidays are in exotic locations globally.

But for achieving all of this – remember that the 1st breakout is important. That gets you started. I see my nephew who was brilliant and worked hard for 4 years –  he now stands at the altar of the best colleges in India – his career is set. I also see my daughter and some of her friends in Class 9 – who are gifted with brilliance – but are yet to push on the accelerator of hard work and diligence. iPad, iPhone, You Tube and a giggly time pass friends circle threatens to block their path. Should we be strict and disciplinarian or should we allow them to live the life of the current era – there are pros and cons to both – I am not sure which is the correct path.

I hope like any parent that this stage will pass and the kids will leverage all the resources at their disposal and get set to breakaway in the marathon of life.


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