Mystical Chidambaram
Only for the chosen few
From Kedarnath to Rameshwaram crowds in Indian temples are large. At Tirupathi at times you have to wait 24+ hrs to get a glimpse of divinity. Chidambaram is one of the few temples with spiritual and religious connections from time immemorial. Yet, the abode of Nataraja is always inviting. To the few chosen few. This Blog will highlight some unique aspects of the Chidambaram temple and help you plan your visit.
Five temples were built in S India. They symbolize the 5 fundamental elements (Pancha Bhootha) Space, Air, Fire, Water & Earth. They stand for not just the physical world but the energetic qualities in all life. Visiting these temples is said to influence and purify the element it signifies. These temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva.
- Space – Chidambaram
- Air – Sri Kalahasti (Near Tirupathi)
- Fire – Arunachaleshwarar (Thiruvanamalai)
- Water – Jambukeshawarar (Tiruchi)
- Earth – Ekambareshwarar (Kancheepuram)
About Chidambaram Thillai Nataraja temple
The Nataraja Temple Chidambaram is also referred to as Thillai Nataraja Temple. This name is on account of the forest of “Thillai” trees that existed here in the past. Chidambaram literally meaning “clothed in thought” or “atmosphere of wisdom”.The main deity of the temple is Nataraja, who dances the Ananda Tandava (Dance of Bliss). Tandava is a type of dance. It can be understood as a pattern of energy flow. Lord Shiva undertakes it for a specific purpose. The Agamas refer to 7 Tandavas – Kali Tandava, Gauri Tandava, Samhara Tandava, Tripura Tandava and Urduva Tandava. The Sandya Tandava is a calm and relaxed dance. It occurs in-between creations. The Ananda Tandava synthesizes all the Tandavas.
Ananda Tandava
The Ananda Tandava is said to have first occurred in Darukavanam. Sages Patanjali & Vyagrapadar came to know of this dance and were keen to witness. They performed severe penance at the shrine of Adi Moolanathar. Lord Shiva granted their wish. He performed the Ananda Tandava at the place where the Nataraja idol is presently installed. This act was to bless Sage Patanjali & Vyagrapadar. Besides the main Nataraja statue, the temple also has a Shiva Lingam in Crystal stone (Sphatika) and in Ruby. Daily Abhishekam’s are done to these Lingams. The current Nataraja Bronze statue dates back to the Chola period.
Adi Moolanathar
Most visit the Chidambaram temple for Nataraja. But the “Moolavar” main deity of the temple is “Adi Moolanathar”. Much before Lord Shiva appeared here in the form of Nataraja he has been here as a Swayambu Lingam. The origin and date of this Lingam is unknown. It is believed that this Lingam is the energy source for most Lingams in the land. Hence, the name Moolanathar (Lord of the source). As it has been here from the beginning (Adi) of time it is known as Adi Moolanathar.
Chidambaram Rahasyam
An empty chamber in the sanctum of the Chidambaram temple is to the right of Nataraja. It stands for Space. This formless aspect of the creator is presented as “Chidambaram Rahasyam” (Secret of Chidambaram). Formless space is the most fundamental of all elements. It forms the basis of the four other elements of the Pancha Bhootha. This space is veiled by a curtain. It is lifted after the puja at certain times. Devotees throng to get a glimpse. Lamps are waved for a very brief period. You can see an empty chamber with hanging golden Vilva leaves. Inside the chamber is embedded a powerful “chakra” that serves as the energy base for the temple. Lord Shiva & Parvathi are said to live here in their formless state.
Pancha Sabha Temples
In Tamil Nadu, there are 5 temples where Lord Shiva expressed his five functions in the universe in the form of dance. These temples are referred to as the “Pancha Sabhai “ temples or the five dancing halls. They are
- Chidambaram (Pon Sabha – Golden Hall)
- Tiru Alangadu (Rathna Sabha – Ruby Hall)
- Madurai (Velli Sabha – Silver Hall)
- Tirunelveli (Tamira Sabha – Copper Hall)
- Courtrallam (Chitra Sabha – Hal of Murals)
Chidambaram is one of the 5 Pancha Sabhai temples. It also has 5 Sabhas – Chit Sabha, Kanaka Sabha, Deva Sabha, Nritya Sabha & Raja Sabha.
- Chit Sabha houses the idol of Lord Nataraja.
- Kanaka Sabha is used for performing daily rituals.
- Nrithya Sabha is where the Lord Shiva is said to have danced with Goddess Kali.
- Raja Sabha or the 1000-pillared hall which symbolizes the yogic chakra of the pillared lotus or Sahasra
- Deva Sabha houses the Pancha moorthis and a revered collection of historic bronze sculptures and modern-era frescoes.
The Chit Sabha or Chitrambalam
This is the Sanctum Sanctorum housing Lord Nataraja, his consort Sivakama Sundari and the Chidambaram Rahasyam.
- There are 9 Kalashas (Pots) on the roof representing the nine Shakti’s.
- The door leading to the Chit Sabha symbolizes illusion
- The 96 Tattvas of creation are in the shape of 96 windows
- The 4 golden pillars in the middle represent the 4 Vedas
- The 28 wooden pillars around them represent the 28 Siva Agamas
- The 64 Kalas (Arts) are represented as 64 beams
- The 21600 gold leaves shaped like Vilva leaves on the roof represent the average number of breaths a human being takes in a day
- These are secured by 72000 nails that represent the energy channels or ‘nadis’ in the human body
- The Panchakshara (Na Ma Si Va Ya) mantra has 5 syllables. There are also 5 steps leading to the shrine.
A Divya Desam inside the Chidambaram temple
Lord Govindraja’s shrine in Chidambaram is 40th in the list of 108 Divya Desam’s. King Nandivarman Pallava II (717 – 782 AD) built the famous Vaikunta Perumal temple in Kancheepuram. He is also said to have consecrated the Govindaraja shrine here. Initially, the Deekshitar worshiped the shrine as a subordinate to Nataraja. In the 10th century there was a dispute between the Vaishnavites & the Deekshitar’s about authority of the shrine. In the 1st half of the 12th century, it is said that Kulatunga Chola II removed the idol. He then dumped it in the sea. It was recovered and taken to lower Tirupathi where it was consecrated and enshrined by Ramanuja. It seems that there was no Vishnu shrine in Chidambaram between 12th & 15th century. Later Achuta Raya who ascended the throne after Krishnadeva Raya reconsecrated the idol in its original place.
Modern Temple History
The earliest mention of the “dancing god of Chidambaram” as Shiva is in texts by Appar & Sambandar. (Shaiva Siddhanta saints).These texts are from the 6th and early 7th centuries. Viduvelvidugu Perumthachan is considered the chief architect. Parantaka Chola is said to have started the construction of the temple.
The current structures and plans in the Chidambaram temple complex mostly date back to the 12th and 13th centuries. This includes the mandapas and their pillar carvings, the various shrines, the sacred water pool, and the gopuram. These are attributed to the late Chola and early Pandya kings. After the Pandyas the Vijayanagar kings also contributed to the development & upkeep of the temple. Post the Vijayanagar kings the Cheras & Nayakas of Madurai provided extensive grants and made improvements to the temple.
The history of Chola kings and their association with Chidambaram runs deep. Raja Raja – 1, the most famous Chola king was an ardent devotee of Nataraja like his predecessors & successors. Chidambaram was the second capital of the Cholas and most kings had their coronations here.
The records left by the court historians of the Delhi Sultanate state that Malik Kafur raided Chidambaram, Srirangam & Madurai. He also attacked other Tamil towns and destroyed the temples. The Nataraja temple was one of the sources of the gold and jewels booty he brought back to Delhi.
The Deekshitar’s
The Chidambaram Deekshitar’s are said to have migrated from Mount Kailash with Lord Shiva. They were 3000 of them initially, now they are about 500 families. In the Chidambaram Mahatmya, Lord Shiva explains to Nandi. He states that the Deekshitar’s fully understand the sanctity and greatness of Nataraja. They are also well versed in the scriptures. Till date the Deekshitar’s conduct the worship as laid down by Patanjali based on the Vaidika Puja tradition.
This is the only temple in Tamil Nadu that is not managed by the Government. The 500 Deekshitar families manage full control. This is probably why you will not see tickets for special darshan. Security does not frisk you. Priests do not hound you for money. The energy and sanctity of the temple has been maintained very well by the Deekshitar’s. This adds to the uniqueness of the temple.
If you need a detailed tour of the temple, you need to connect with a Deekshitar. For access to the Sanctum Sanctorum platform, you should also reach out to a Deekshitar.
Temple Daily Rituals & Festivals
There are 6 worship services every day.
- Kala Sandhi – between 6 & 7 AM
- Second Kalam – 10.30 AM (Abhishekam to Sphatika Lingam & Ruby image of Nataraja)
- Uchi Kalam – 12 Noon (Abhishekam to Sphatika Lingam)
- Saya Rakshai – 6 PM, Most elaborate. During this time, 16 offerings are made to the Sphatika Lingam as part of the Shodasa Upachara. The grand finale of this Kalam is the parting of the curtain three times to reveal the Chidambaram Rahasyam
- Evening Second Kalam – 7 PM , The doors and the windows of the Chit Sabha are completed closed during the puja for the Chidambaram Rahasyam
- Artha Jamam – 9 PM, The Artha Jamam puja is performed with special fervour. All the divine beings are said to witness it. Lord Shiva retiring in the night chamber is symbolic of the Universe returning to the seed form. The 1st puja is symbolic of beginning of creation.
The temple opens at 6 AM. Devotees escort Lord Shiva’s bejeweled silver padukas from the night chamber (Palli Arai) to the Sanctum Sanctorum in a palanquin. This is a beautiful event accompanied by cymbals, chimes, trumpets, and drums. In the Chit Sabha, the padukas are placed close to Lord Nataraja in the Chidambaram Rahasyam chamber.
After the Deeparadhana at 10 PM, the priests ceremoniously take Lord Nataraja’s holy Padukas from the Chitt Sabha. They carry them in a palanquin to the night chamber. After the rituals and the Aarti, the Lords Padukas are placed on a swing in the Palli Arai next to Devi. They are then rocked slowly. Then the doors are shut
Six Abhishekam’s are performed for the Sphatika Lingam every day. The Abhishekam for Lord Nataraja & Sivakami is conducted 6 times every year. This is called Maha Abhishekam.
The 6 Main festivals
The two annual grand Brahmotsav festivals are 10 day festivals and are celebrated in
- Marghazi (Dec 15 – Jan 15) concluding on the full moon day of Arudra.
- The second of these grand festivals occurs in the month of Aani (May – June). It concludes with Aani Tirumanjanam on the 10th day of the Uthiram Nakshatra.
These are grand festivals attracting large number of devotees. Special functions are arranged on each day. On the 9th day, the Lord is taken in a procession on a chariot around the temple streets. . This is an experience to behold once in a lifetime.
Other than the Brahmotsavams a grand dance festival called Natyanjali is also celebrated at Chidambaram every year.
Maha Abhishekam (the great holy bathing) of the deities, Lord Nataraja and Goddess Sivakamasundari, is conducted six times a year. These occur on certain specified dates.
- Tiruvonam star day, month of Chithirai, at the Kanaka Sabha.
- Utara star day, month of Ani, at the Thousand Pillared Mantapa, as part of the Ani Tirumanjanam festival.
- The Purvapaksha chaturdasi day in the month of Avani at the Kanaka Sabha.
- The Purvapaksha chaturdasi day in the month of Purattasi at the Kanaka Sabha.
- Arudra (Tiruvadirai) star day, month of Margazi, at the Thousand-Pillared Mantapa, as part of the Arudra Darshanam festival.
- The Purvapaksha chaturdasi day in the month of Masi at the Kanaka Sabha.
Temple Architecture
You need to spend a few days to visit and explore this massive, grand temple. Allow yourself to absorb the energy at different times of the day. Don’t rush through in a few hours.
The temple had a pre-Chola existence. Its architecture is a combination of Chola and Pandya styles. The Sanctum Sanctorum closely resembles Kerala style structures. Indeed, the royal charters mention the rebuilding of the Sanctum using architects from Kerala. Nevertheless, the golden roof is a striking example of Vesara architecture with its apsidal shape. (Vesara is a hybrid form of Indian temple architecture that combines Southern Indian site layouts with shape details characteristic of the Nagara style of North India)
- Spread across 40 Acres, the temple is designed in 5 concentric courtyards, 4 of which are accessible to public. The Chitt Sabha (hall of consciousness) is considered the oldest.
- The Sivakami Sundari temple, the Raja Sabha, 100 Pillared hall – are attributed to the 12thcentury Cholas.
- The 4 Gopurams in the outer parikramas are gigantic masterpieces with seven tiers. In the towers on either side of the gateway there are representation of the 108 poses of Bharat Natyam.
- There are many shrines with the complex, the second largest after Nataraja being that of his consort Sivakami Sundari. She is the mother of the universe – Parashakti. She offers darshan as a six foot tall beautiful mother providing bliss to her devotees. There are many more shrines for Subramanya, Ganesha, Nandi, Kali, and Mahishasuramardini. There is also a Surya shrine with chariot wheels.
- Close to the Devi temple is a shrine with Adi Shankara’s statue and a large Sri Chakra Yantra. Locals believe that the Sri Chakra was installed by Rishi Suka Brahma. Normally the Sri Chakra is inside the Sanctum Sanctorum – this is a unique case where it is outside.
- As you finish the circuit you cross the grand Shiva Ganga Teertha.
Thillai Kali
Dedicated to Kali this temple is located ½ km from the Chidambaram Nataraja temple. Goddess Parvathi took the form of Kali to vanquish some demons. Even after destroying the demons her ferocity continued unabated. Lord Shiva engaged in a dance contest. The thrilling meeting ended with Shiva winning. He performed the Urduva Tandava (Shiva lifting his leg 90% upwards). This was a pose Devi was unable to execute. Kali was subdued and she retreated to live in the outside boundary.
Where to stay at Chidambaram
Option – 1 : Hotel Akshaya. They have large rooms including Suites and car parking. An excellent A2B is on the Ground floor serves great food. It’s a 5 min walk from the East Entrance. This has limited car parking.
Option – 2 : Arudra Residency. On the East entrance path, 100 m from the temple main entrance. Smaller hotel with small rooms.
Option – 3 : Lakshmi Vilas Heritage. It is a heritage village with 16 rooms. This village is about 15 Km south of Chidambaram. It is a large property with lots of greenery. There is a nice pond and a 150-year-old temple in its compound. This property serves Non Veg food.
Best place for food is A2B (Adayar Anand Bhavan) – excellent variety, very neat and clean. The next best option is Sri Krishna Vilas. Smaller place on the main road. Gets very crowded. Food is good – some guests I have referred felt that the cleanliness was not upto par.
Additional Points
- If you stay at Arudra Residency, Parking is on the main road – East Car Street. You enter the temple from the East Gate. Akshaya hotel has a few limited parking slots. During Brahmotsav festival no parking is allowed on the main road to allow passage for the chariot procession.
- Dress code is traditional , If you go up the Sanctum podium you need to wear dhoti & sari, men remove the shirt
- No checks for phone – but no photography & Video of temple
- Drive from Bangalore is 6 – 6 ½ hrs depending on the day and time of departure
- In and around Chidambaram are many ancient temples. Tanjore & Kumbakonam are close by. The famous Vaitheeswaran temple is an hr away.
- Pondicherry is a few hrs from Chidambaram
- Best time to visit is Jan – Feb. Summers are very hot and Sep – Mid Dec is the rainy season.
- Thiruvanamalai can be covered on the way back – its 3 hrs from Chidambaram.
Reference
Mystical Chidambaram – Universal Publishing
https://recentscientific.com/sites/default/files/10717-A-2018.pdf
http://www.chidambaramnataraja.org/about_temple.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nataraja_Temple,_Chidambaram#Rituals
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