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Adi Sankara Nilayam – The “Mana” where He was born

7 Feb

Kerala “God’s own country”, the land created by Parasurama – home to ancient revered temples, the land where Goddess Bhagavathi is worshipped in every village – is also the hallowed land where the great vedantin Adi Shankara was born.

While most assume his birth place was Kalady, his mother Aryamba’s family home (Mana) was Veliyanad. Children are born in the maternal home – especially in those days. There is strong evidence that Adi Shankara was born and spent many of his early years in Melpazhur Mana his ancestral maternal home. Kaladi was his paternal home next to the Periyar river where he went for his gurukul studies, this is also the place where the crocodile is said to have caught his leg.

Both the places where in bad shape with no support / attention from the Government. Kaladi is now maintained by the Sringeri Mutt, while Swami Chinmayananda has established a wonderful ashram at Adi Shankara’s maternal home. Renamed Adi Shankara Nilayam the abode of Chinmaya International Foundation (CIF) they have carefully restored the ancient Mana and the family temples. An energised oasis of greenery and tranquility the ashram at Veliyanad is a place worth visiting for spiritual aspirants. Not only is it treasured as the birth place and maternal home of Adi Shankara – but is also a centre for Sanskrit and Indic research.

Where is it located – how to reach

About 30 km from Ernakulam, the closest station is Piravam Road. A 20 min auto ride from here takes you to CIF . Kaladi is ~ 50 km from here. There are convenient overnight trains from Bangalore. Located in a small hamlet, Veliyanad, in Ernakulam District, Kerala, India, CIF stands in a 11 acre plot of land amidst luxuriant sun-blessed greenery, temple shrines and lotus ponds. It offers an ambience of peace and solitude for study, research and contemplation to aspirants from all over the world.

How do I book a room

Send a mail to anil.pillai@chinfo.org stating your interest and why you want to visit. AC rooms are 1500 / person inclusive of breakfast / lunch / dinner / tea.

What is CIF 

Chinmaya International Foundation (CIF), the Academia of Sanskrit Research and Indic Studies, is the research wing of the Chinmaya Mission Worldwide. It is a centre of excellence for the study, research and dissemination of knowledge in the areas of Indian philosophy, culture, art and science.

Established in the year 1989, CIF is housed in Adi Sankara Nilayam, the hallowed maternal birth home of the great saint, savant and philosopher Sri Adi Sankara.

What is the Melpazhur Mana / Adi Shankara Nilayam 

‘Melpazhur Mana’ is a Nambutiri Illom or Mana (home of a Kerala Brahmin). This sacred dwelling is the ancestral, maternal home and birthplace of Adi Sankara. Local tradition has it that Adi Sankara’s vidyarambha and upanayana ceremonies were performed at Melpazhur Mana. Today, this place of pilgrimage is named ‘Adi Sankara Nilayam’.

Set in Kerala’s lush, green country, amidst temple shrines and lotus and lily ponds, Melpazhur Mana offers a spiritual ambience that attracts aspirants who come in search of peace and solitude from the world over. Within the Mana stands the awe-inspiring quiet grandeur of the nalukettu (a building which has a four-winged architectural design) on an extensive compound of 11 acres.

This age-old Nambutiri house highlights Kerala’s sacred and graceful traditions of yore. Its structural strength and design exquisitely blend utility and art, wood and granite, work and worship. The Mana — now a four-winged structure (nalukettu) — was originally an eight-winged structure (ettukettu). The outer four wings were dismantled. The now downsized Mana still exudes the spiritual glory and affluence of old, in its serene character and architectural design.

The northern wing hosts the room ‘Thevarappura’, wherein the daily agnihotra, havans (fire rituals) and other forms of ritualistic worship were conducted. The western wing has an underground cellar ‘Nilavara’, as well as specially designed rooms where the household could store grains, temple ornaments and utensils. The southern extension features the ‘thekkini’, where large family gatherings feasted on special occasions. And finally, in the eastern section, close to the traditional kitchen and well, is the sacred room where Adi Sankara was born.

The walls of the Mana are adorned with Kerala Murals that depict his life events.

In order to enhance the feeling in seekers and help them reach into their own divinity, an idol of Adi Sankara vigraha, was installed in 2015. Meditating in this room is most fulfilling and effortless. Truly, Sri Sankara is felt here in the light of the ever-lit akhanda jyoti and the regular chants and prayers that fill this room. An Arti is conducted every morning at 8 AM.

Temples in the Mana

Melpazhur Mana houses ancient temples from an era gone by, temples ostensibly worshipped by Sri Sankara and his mother. We have on these premises the ancient shrines of Ayyappa, Rama, Krishna, Ganesha, Vettakkoruvan (Kirata Siva, the family deity of Melpazhur Mana), and Goddesses Nagayakshi and Bhagavati. The pond adjacent to the temple compound adds immense beauty to the serene surroundings and artistic structures.

The Ayyappa temple is supposed to be a Swayambu. Temple shrine opens at 5.30 AM – if you visit at 5.45 AM you can see the Abhishekam. Evening the temples open at 5.30 PM – Aarti is around 6.30 PM (please double check on timings once you reach). The temple

https://www.chinfo.org/templesInAdiSankaraMilayam/

Other places to see in Adi Sankara Nilayam 

They have a well stocked library and there are research scholars working on ancient palm leaf manuscripts decoding them and restoring them. The book shop is also a must visit with an excellent collection of books. There is a small hall where they conduct talks / workshops.

The lunch room serves excellent sattvic food. Breakfast is at 8 AM, Lunch at 1 and dinner at 8 PM. Before each meal the residents chant Chapter 15 of the Bhagavad Gita – so wait before you start eating.

How much time should I plan here 

We spent a day – reached at 8.30 AM just in time for breakfast and left at 9.30 AM the next day. This was perfect to have a relaxed trip through the campus.

CIF conducts many programs on Indic / Sanskrit topics. These are multi day events if you decide to enroll and attend. Visit their website for more details.

How is the weather

Nov to Jan is the best time to travel – rest of the year can get hot.

What else can I visit 

Kerala is studded with ancient temples. It is indeed a contradiction that this great land of the Gods is now under the Communists.

Kaladi is near the Cochin Airport. That is also worth a visit.

If temples are your interest there are many options. Chootinakara Bhagavathi temple is only 15 km away

You can also drive to Trichur / Guruvayur and visit the the temples there, Trichur is a 100 km 2 1/2 hr drive from CIF

Kodangallur Bhagavathi temple is not far from Trichur – 1 hrs drive. The Koodalmanikyam temple in Irinjalakuda is the only temple dedicated to Bharata. This is close to Kodongollur.

 

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Learn to Chant Rudram Perfectly in 90 Hrs

5 Aug

Introduction to Rudram 

Among the various Vedic Hymns Sri Rudram occupies a prime place. Lord Rudra, to whom these prayers are addressed is not a sectarian deity, but the Supreme Being who is omnipresent and manifests Himself in myriad forms. Hence this prayer is also called Satarudriyam – Rudra in hundreds of forms. Rudram reveals the great Panchakshari, the five lettered mantra “Nama Shivaya”. Chanting of Rudram daily is said to confer all blessings – material & spiritual. Sri Rudram is also considered to be an Upanishad.

 

Namakam – The first chapter (Anuvaka) is a set of prayers to the Lord to give up anger roused against those who transgress divine commandments. The 2nd to the 9th chapters contain the prostrations to His omnipotence and indwelling in all beings. The 10thchapter celebrates the munificence of the Lord and prays for prosperity and warding off all evil. In the last – 11th Anuvaka we get the thanksgiving to the lords attendants – The Ganas.

Chamakam is a prayer associated with doing homa at the end of the yagna. These Anuvakas are thus called Vasordhaara. It has the leading statement repeated “Yagnena Kalpantaam” – May everything in this world be offered to God as worship. Chamakam is a compendium of prayers praying for the fulfilment of desires in man. After pacifying the Lord with Namakam when he is in a happier mood you chant Chamakam – which lists 347 benedictions to be bestowed on the chanter.

There is a time honoured tradition that Rudram (Namakam & Chamakam) should be chanted daily with Purusha Suktam. One becomes sinless by chanting them. Sri Rudram occurs in the Karma Kanda of the Yajur Veda

Resources to learn 

I referred 4 resources that helped me learn in less than 45 hrs. (Approximately 2 hrs / Anuvaka – 22 Anuvakams across Namakam & Chamakam). The remaining 45 Hrs is to practise again and again and perfect the chanting. You may take lesser time as I have included the script in English with tips for perfect chanting.

GRD Iyers Gurucool has multiple YouTube Videos where all the Anuvakams are taught in traditional Vedic style. Ramesh Natarajan (Guruji) chants to perfection and his students repeat after him. This is the best way to learn.

I have enclosed the text in English below for accurate chanting . This will help those who don’t know Sanskrit. After you have learnt the Anuvakam from GRD Iyer’s refer to the YouTube chanting videos by Suresh Ghanapathi or Challikere Brothers to perfect the pronunciation, rhythm and swaras while chanting fast. Initially run the video at 0.75 speed and then at regular speed.

I referred the book Sri Rudram & Purushasuktam by Swami Amritananda for meaning and Sanskrit Script (Ramkrishna Math Mylapore Publications)

Reference Videos 

GRDIYERS Gurucool – Chanting Rules 

GRDIYERS Gurucool – Rudram Chanting Practise 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 1 – Rudram Namakama

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 2 – Rudram Namakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 3 – Rudram Namakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 4 – Rudram Namakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 5 – Rudram Namakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 6 – Rudram Namakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 7,8,9 – Rudram Namakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 10,11 Part 1 – Rudram Namakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 11 Part 2 – Rudram Namakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 1,2 – Chamakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 3,4 Part 1 – Chamakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 4th – 7th – Chamakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 8,9 – Chamakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 10 – Chamakam 

GRDIYERS Anuvakam 10 – 11, Part 2 – Chamakam 

GRDIYERS Chamakam Practise

K Suresh Ghanapati – Sri Rudram (Namakam) Chanting 

K Suresh Ghanapati – Chamakam Chanting 

Rudram Chanting by Challikere Brothers  

Chamakam meaning of all the 347 benedictions 

Sri Rudram & Purushasuktam by Swami Amritananda for meaning and Sanskrit Script (Ramkrishna Math Mylapore Publications)

Useful tips to Chanting 

The beauty of Rudram is when you chant it perfectly. Focus on correct pronunciation, space gap, where to stress, where to move fast, where to slow down etc . I have tried to provide help in my scripts with simple tips to assist the chanter. If you chant correctly one word flows to the other and the energy you generate is immense. It is indeed very satisfying and you will be addicted to chanting this beautiful & powerful mantra everyday. Do learn the meaning – it is profound and beautiful. If you need a PDF Document that highlights the areas to stress, where to pause etc please send me a mail.

 

Om
Sri Gurubhyo Namaha
Hari Hi Om

Ganapati Prarthna from Yajur Veda

Gananaam Tva Ganapathi Gum
Havamahe Kavim Kavinaam
Upamashravas Tamam
Jyeshtarajam Brahmanaam
Brahmanaspata Aa Nah Shrunvan
Nutibhih Seedha Sadhanam
Om Sri Maha Ganapatiye Namaha
(Om Sri Maha Ganadapitaye Namaha)

1st Anuvaka

We pray to Rudra for His grace. He continues to be angry even after killing Tripurasura. He is angry with the transgression of moral codes. He has two forms – one terrific, the other benign. The devotee is scared of his terrifying form. Hence the prayer to please & propitiate Him invoking His benign form.

Om Namo Bhagavate Rudraaya

Namaste Rudra Manyava Utota Ishave Namahaa
Namaste Astu Dhanvane Bahubhyaa Mutate Namahaa

Yaata Ishush Shivatamaa Shivam Babhuvate Dhanuhuu
Shivaasa RavYaaya TavaTayaanoo Rudra Mridayaa

Ya Te Rudra Shiva TanuuraGhoraa Paapa Kaashini
Taya NasTanuva Santamayaa GirishanTabhiChakaShihii

YaaMishun Girishanta Haste Bibhar Syastavee
Shivaan, Giritra Taan, Kuru MahiGum Si Purushan Jagatah

Shivena Vachasaa, Tva GiriSaccha Vadaamasi
Yatha Nas Sarva MijjaGadaYakshmaGum Sumanaa Asatha

AdhyaVochaDadhiVaktaa Prathamo Daivyo Bhishaka
AhiiGrishcha Sarvaa..Nnn, Jambhayan, Tsavarvaa..Cha Yaatu Dhaanyahaa

Aso YasTaamro , ArunaUta Babhrus Sumangalahaa
Ye Che MaaGum Rudraa, Abhito DikshuShritaas Sahasra So Vai Sa Gum Heda Emahe

AsavYo Vasarpati Nilagrivo Vilohitahaa
Utainan Gopaa AdrashanAdrashan UdaHaaryahaa
Utainam Vishwa Bhutani SaDrishto Mridayaati Nahaa

Namo Astu Neelagrivaya Sahasraakshaaya Meedhusheee..h
Atho Ye Asyaa SatvAaNohan TebhyoKaran Namahaa

Pramuncha DhanvaNastvaaMubhayoRartni YorjyaaMm…
Yaaschate Hasta Ishava ParaaTaa Bhagavo Vapaa

Avatatya DhanusTvaGum Sahasraaksha ShateShudhe
Nisheerya Shalyaanaam Mukha Shivonas Sumanaa Bhavaa

Vijyan Dhanu Kapardino Vishalyoo BanaavaGumUtaa
Aneshan Nasyeshava AaabhuRasya Nishan Gathihii

Ya Te Hetur Midhushtama Haste Babhuuvate Dhanuhuu
TayaasMaaNnn.., Vishwa Tastvama Yakshmaya Yaa Pari Bhuja

Namaste AstvaayudhaYaanaTataaya Drishnaveee..h
Ubhaabhya Mutate Namo Bahubhyaan Tava Dhanvanee

PariTe Dhanvano HetiRasmaan Vrinaktu Vishwatahaa
AthoYa IshudishtaVaare , AsmaNnn Nidhe HiTam

Namaste , Astu Bhagavann Vishwesharaaya Maha Devaaya Triyambakaya Tripurantakaya Trikaagni Kalaaya Kalaagni Rudraaya Neelakanthaaya Mrityunjayaaya Sarveshwaraaya Sada Shivaya Sriman Maha Devaaya Namahaa

2nd Anuvaka

From the 2nd to 9th Anuvaka Lord Shiva is praised in the different forms He takes as a sport for the working of the world.

Namo Hiranyabhaave Senaanye Dishancha Pataye Namo Namo
Vrikshebhyo Harikeshebya Pashunaam Pataye Namo Namas
Saspinjaraya YathVishimathe Pathinaam Pataye Namo Namo
Babhlushaaya VivyaDhinneNaNaam Pataye Namo Namo
Harikeshaayo PaviiTine Pushtanaam Pataye Namo Namo
Bhavasya Hethyay Jagathaam Pataye Namo Namo
Rudraayaa Tathavine Kshetranaam Pataye Namo Namas
SuutaYahanTyayaaVananaam Pataye Namo Namo
Rohitaya SthPataye Vrikshanaam Pataye Namo Namo
Mantrine Vanijaya Kakshanaam Pataye Namo Namo
Bhuvanthaye VaariVaskritha Yaushadhinaam Pataye Namo Nama
UcchairGhoshayaa Kandayate Pattinaam Pataye Namo Nama
KritsnaVeetaya Dhaavate Satvanaam Pataye Namahaaa

3rd Anuvaka

Namah Sahamaanaya NivyaDhinna Aavyadhineenaam Pataye Namo Nama
Kakubhaaya NishangineEeee.. Sthenanaam Pataye Namo Namo
Nishangina Ishudhimathe Taskaranaam Pataye Namo Namo
VanCchate PariVanCchate, Sthayuunaam Pataye Namo Namo
Nicheravee ParicharayaAaranyaNaam Pataye Namo Namas
Srikavibhyo Jigha Gum Sabdhyo Mushnataam Pataye Namo Namo
Simadbhyo NaktanCharadBhya PrakrintaaNaam Pataye Namo Nama
Ushnisheene Giricharaaya Kulunchanaam Pataye Namo Nama
IshuMadbhyo Dhanvaa VibhYascha Vo Namo Nama
AatanVaaNebhya PratidadhaaNebhYasCha Vo Namo Nama
AayaChadadhbhyo Visarjad BhyasCha Vo Namo Namoo….
SyadBhyo Vidhyad BhyasCha Vo Namo Namah
AasiNebhyash Shayaa NebhyashChaVo Namo Namas
SvaPadBhyo Jaagrad BhyasCha Vo Namo Namas
StishTadBhyo Dhaavad BhyascCha Vo Namo Namas
Sabhaabhyas Sabhapati BhyasCha Vo Namo Namoo..
Ashvebhyo Shvapati BhyasCha Vo Namahaa..

4th Anuvaka

Namah AaavyaaDhinii.. Bhyo VividhyanThi BhyasCha Vo Namo Nama
Uganaa Bhyastra Gum Hathe BhyasCha Vo Namo Namo
Gritseybhyo GritSaPati Bhyasha Vo Namo Namo
Vratee…Bhyo VraataPati BhyasCha Vo Namo Namo
Ganebhyo Ganapati BhyasCha Vo Namo Namo
Virupeebhyo Vishwaroope BhyasCha Vo Namo Namo
MahadBhyaahak Shullake BhyasCha Vo Namo Namo
Rathibhyo Rathee BhyasCha Vo Namo Namo
Ratheee…Bhyo RathaPathi BhyasCha Vo Namo Namas
See…Naa…Bhya Senani Bhyascha Vo Namo Namaha
Shatrubhyas SangraHi TriBhyasCha Vo Namo Namas
Takshabhyo Rathakaare BhyasCha Vo Namo Nama
KulaLeebhya KarmaReee… BhyasCha Vo Namo Nama
PunjishTee…Bhyo Nishade BhyasCha Vo Namo Nama
IshukridBhyo Dhanva Krid BhyasCha Vo Namo Namo
Mriga YubBhyas ShvaniBhyasCha Vo Namo Nama
Shvabhyas Shvapati BhyasCha Vo Namahaaa..

5th Anuvaka

Namo Bhavaaya Ch Rudrayaa Ch
Nama Sharvaaya Ch Pashupatayee Ch
Namo Nilagrivaaya Ch Shithikanthaaya Ch
Nama Kapardine Ch Vyupta Keshaaya Ch
Nama SahasrSaakshaya Ch Shata Dhanvanee Ch
Namo Girishaaya Ch ShipiVishtaaya Ch
Namo Meedhustamaaya CheeshuMathe Ch
Namooo… HrasVaaya Ch Vamanaaya Ch
Namo Brihate Ch Varsheey Se Ch
Namo Vriddh Vaaya Ch SamVriddhVane Ch
Namo, AgriYaay Ch Prathamaaya Ch
Nama Aashave Cha Jiraaya Ch
Nama SheegriYaaya Ch SheebhYaaya Ch
Nama UurmYaaya Cha VasvannYaaya Ch
Nama SrothasYaaya Ch Dveep Yaaya Chaa….

6th Anuvaka

Namooo….. Jyeshtaaya Ch Kanishtaaya Ch
Nama Puurvajaaya Cha Parajaaya Ch
Namo Madhyamaaya Cha Pagalbhaaya Ch
Namo JaghanYaaya Ch BuddhiYaaya Ch
Nama SobhYaaya Ch PrathisarYaaya Ch
Namo YaamYaaya Ch KshemYaaya Ch
Nama UrvarYaaya Ch KhalYaaya Ch
Nama ShlokYaaya Cha VasaanYaaya Ch
Namo VanYaaya Ch KakshYaaya Ch
Nama Shravaaya Ch Prathishravaaya Ch
Nama Aashushenaaya Ch Aashu Rathaaya Ch
Nama Shuraaya Cha VabhiNnnDate Ch
Namo Varminne Ch VaruThinne Ch
Namo Bilminne Ch Kavachi Ne Ch
Nama Shrutaaya Ch Shruta Senaaya Chaa…

7th Anuvaka

Namo DhundhubYaaya Cha HananYaaya Ch
Namo Drishnavee Ch PramRushaaya Ch
Namo Dhutaaya Ch PrahiTaaya Ch
Namo Nishanginee Cheshudhimathe Ch
Nama SteeshNeshaave Cha Yuddhine Ch
Nama Swayudhaaya Ch SudhanVane Ch
Nama ShrutYaaya Ch PathYaaya Ch
Nama KaatYaaya Ch NeepYaaya Ch
Nama SuudhYaaya Ch SarasYaaya Ch
Namo NaadYaaya Ch VaishanTaaya Ch
Nama KuupYaaya Cha VatYaaya Ch
Namo VarshYaaya Cha Varsh Yaaya Ch
Namo MedhYaaya Ch VidyutYaaya Ch
Nama EeghriYaaya Cha Tap Yaaya Ch
Namo VaatYaaya Ch ReshmiYaaya Ch
Namo VaastavYaaya Ch VaastuPaaya Chaaa…

8th Anuvaka

Nama Somaaya Ch Rudraaya Ch
Nama Sthaamraaya Cha Runaaya Ch
Nama Shangaaya Ch Pashupataye Ch
Nama Ugraaya Ch Bhimaaya Ch
Namo, AgreVadhaaya Ch DureeVadhaaya Ch
Namo Hantre ChahaNeeyase Ch
Namo Vrikshebhyo Harikeshebhyo
Nama Sthaaraya Nama Shambhave Ch MayoBhave Ch
Nama Shankarayaa Ch Mayaskaraaya Ch
Nama Shivaaya Ch Shiva Taraaya Ch
Nama SthethYaaya Ch KoolYaaya Ch
Nama PaarYaaya Cha VaarYaaya Ch
Nama PratharaNaaya Cho Taranaaya Ch
Nama AataarYaaya Cha LaadhYaaya Ch
Nama Shushp Yaaya Ch FeinYaaya Ch
Nama SikatYaaya Ch PravaahYaaya Chaaa….

9th Anuvaka

Nama IranYaaya Ch PrapathYaaya Ch
Nama KiGum Shilaaya Ch Shayanaaya Ch
Nama Kapardinee Ch Pulastaye Ch
Namo GhoshtYaaya Ch GrihYaaya Ch
Nama SthalpYaaya Ch GehYaaya Ch
Nama KaathYaaya Ch Gah VareshThaaya Ch
Namooo… HridayYaaya Ch NiveshYaaya Ch
Nama PaaGumSavYaaya Ch RajasYaaya Ch
Nama ShushKyaaya Ch HaritYaaya Ch
Namo LopYaaya CholapYaaya Ch
Nama UurvYaaya Ch SuurmYaaya Ch
Nama ParNyaaya Ch ParnaShadhYaaya Ch
Namo Pagura Manaaya ChabhiGhrate Ch
Nama Aakhidate Ch Prakkhidate Ch
Namo Vakkiri Keybhyo Devaana Gum Hridaye Bhyo
Namo Viksheena Keybhyo Namo VicchinVat Keybhyo
Nama Aanirhat(H)eybhyo Nama Aamivat Kebhyahaa….

10th Anuvaka

This Anuvaka consists of 12 Mantras. In this prayer Rudra is requested not to do certain things but grant certain other things.

Draape, AndhaSaspate Daridra Nilalohitaa
Eshaam, Purushaana Meshaam, Pashunaam Maa Bheir Maaro Mo, Eshaan Kinchanaa Mamattt….
Ya Te Rudra Shiva Tanu Shiva Vishwaaha Bheshaji..
Shiva Rudrasya Bheshaji Taya No Mrida Jivaseee… h
ImaGum Rudraaya Tavasee Kapardineeh KshayaDveeraya Prabahara Mahe Mattimm…
YathaNas KshamaSadDwipade Chatushpade Vishwam Pushtam Graame, Asmin Namaa Turan
Mrida No Rudro Tano MayasKridhi KshayaDveeraya Namasaa Vidhematee…
Yacchan Chayoos Ch Manuraaya JehPitaa TadaShyaama Tava Rudra Praneetoo..
Maano Mahaan Ta Muta Maano, Arbhakam Maana Ukshanta Muta Maana Ukshitam
Maano Vadhi Pitaram Moota Maataram Priyaa MaanaStanuvo Rudra Ri Rishahaa
Maanastoke Tanaye Maana Aayushi Maano GoshMaano Ashveshu Ri Rishahaa….
Veeran, Maano Rudra Bhaamitho Vadheer Havishmanto Namasaa Vidhemathe
AaraaThe Googhna Uta Puurushagne KshayaDveeraya Sumna Masme Te, Astu
Raksha Ch No, Adhi Ch Deva Bruh, Yatha Ch Na Sharma Yaccha Dvibaraa…aa…ha
Stuhi Shrutan GarTasaday Yuvaanam Mrigan Bheema MupaHatnu Mugram
Mridaa Jaritre Rudra Sthuvaano, Anyante AsmaNnn Nivapantu Senaa..aa..haa..
AvahSthiraa MaghavadBhyast Anushva MeedhVasStokaaya TanaYaaya Mridayaa….
Midhusthama Shivatama Shivona Sumanaa Bhavaa..
Parame Vriksha Aayudhan Nidhaaya Krittim Vasaana Aachara Pinaakam Vibhra Daagahii…
Vikirida Violhita Namaste, Astu BhagavaHaa
Yaaste Sahasra Gum HetaYoonya MasmaNnn Nivapantu Taa… ha
Sahasraani Sahasradhaa Bahuvoos Tava Hetayahaa
Taasa Meshanoo Bhagava Paraa Cheena Mukhaa Kridhi

11th Anuvaka

Sahasraani Sahasrasho Ye Rudraa, Adi BhumYaa..aam
Tesha Gum Sahasra Yojaneva Dhanvaani Tanmasii
Asmin MahaTyarNavee..eeN(An)Tarikshe Bhavaa, Adhii..
Nilagriva Shithikanthaa..aa Sharvaa, Adaha Kshama Charaaha
Nilagriva Shithikantha DivaGum Rudraa, Upashritaaha
Ye Vriksheshu Saspinjaraa Nilagriva Vilohitaa..ha
Ye Bhutaana Madhipatayoo Vishikhaasa Kapardinahaa
Ye, Anneshu Vividhyanti Paatreshu Pibato Janaanee…
Ye Pathaam Pathirakshaya Aila Bridaa YavYudhahaa
YeEtaa Vantascha BhuuyaaGum SaschaDisho Rudraa VitaSthiree..
Tesha Gum Sahasra Yojaneva Dhanvaani Tanmasii
Namo Rudrebhyo Ye Prithivyaam Yee..Antarikshe Ye Divi Ye Shamann NamVaato VarshaMisha Vasteebhyo Dasha Pracheer Dasha Dakshina, Dasha Praticheer Dasho DeCheir Dashoor Dvaastabehyo Namaste No Mridayantu TeYam Dvishmo YasChhanoo Dveshti Tamvo Dadhaami

Triyambakai Yaja Mahe Sugandham Pushti Vardhanam
Urva Ruka Miva Bandhanaan
Mrityoor Mukshiya MaAmritaat

Yo Rudro, Agnau Yo, Apsu Ya Ooshadeeshu Yo Rudro Vishwaa Bhuvana Vivesha Tasmai Rudraaya Namoo, Astu
Tamashtuhi Yah Svishuh Sudhanvaa Yo Vishwasya Kshayaati Bheshajasyaa…
Yakshwaa..aa Mahe Souu.. Manasaaya Rudran Namooo…oo Bhirdeva Masuuram Duvasya
Ayam Me Hasto Bhagaava, Nayam Me Bhagaavat(T)arahaa
Ayam Mee…ee, Vishwa Bhe..ee Shajoyam ShivaBheem Arshanahaa
Ye Te Sahasra Mayutam Paasha Mrityo Martyaaya Hantavee..
Taan, Yagnyasya MaayaYaaSarvaa Nava Yajaamahe
Mrityave Swaaha Mrityavee Swaahaa…aa
Om Namo Bhagavate Rudraaya Vishnave Mrityur Me Pahi
Prananaam Granthirasi Rudro Maa Vishaantakahaa
TeenaanNeeNaa… Pya Yashwaa
Namo Rudraaya Vishnave Mrityur Me Pahi
Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Hi , Hari Hi Om

 

Chamakam
Om Sri Gurubhyo Namaha
Hari Hi Om

Anuvaka – 1

Agnaa Vishnu Sajosha Semaa Vardhantu Vaangirahaa.. ,
Dhum Neir Vaaje Bhiraagatham ,
Vaajas Chame Prasavas Chame Prayatis Chame Prasithis Chame Dheetis Chame Kratush Chame Swaras Chame Slokash Chamee, Shraavas Chame Shrutis Chame Jyotish Chame Suvas Chamee, Praanas Chame Paanas Chamee, Vyaanas Chame Sush Chame Chittan Chama Aadhithan Chame Vaak Chame Manas Chame Chakshush Chamee, Shrotran Chame Dakshash Chame Balan Chama Ojas Chame Sahas Chama Aayush Chame Jaraa Chama Aatmaa Chame Tanuus Chame Sharma Chame Varma Cha Meingaane Chame Sthaani Chame Paruugum Shi Chame Shareerani Chameee….

Anuvaka – 2

JayShThyan Chama Aadhi Pathyan Chame
Manyush Chame Bhaamas Chame MasChameemBhash Chame
Jema Chame Mahima Chame Varima Chame, Prathima Chame
Varshma Chame, DraDhuyaa Chame Vriddhan Chame
Vriddhish Chame Satyan Chame, Shraddha Chame Jagacchh Chame
Dhanan Chame Vashash Chame, Twishish Chamee, Kreeda Chame Modash Chame Jaatan Chame Janishya Mannan Chame Suuktan Chame Sukratan Chame Vittan Chame Vedhyan Chame Bhutan Chame BhavishyaCchh Chame Sugan Chame Supathan Chama Riddhan Chama Riddhish Chame Kliptan Chame Kliptish Chame Matish Chame Sumatish Chameee…

Anuvaka – 3

Shan Chame Mayash Chamee, Priyan Chame Nukaamas Chame Kaamash Chame Saumanasas Chame Bhadran Chamee,
Shreeyas Chame Vasyash Chame Yasash Chame Bhagas Chame, Dravinan Chame Yantaa Chame Dharta Chamee, Kshemas Chame Dhritish Chame Vishvann Chame Mahas Chame SaMmVichh Chame Gnyaatran Chame Suush Chame Prasuush Chamee Seeran Chame Layash Chama Ritan Chame(A)Mritan Chame Yakshman Chamee Naa MayaCch Chame Jeevatush Chame DheergaaYutVaNn Chame Na Mitran Chame Bhayan Chame Sugan Chame Shayanan Chame Suusha Chame Sudinan Chamee….

Anuvaka – 4

Uurk Chame Suunrita Chame Payas Chame Rasas Chamee, Dhritan Chame Madhu Chame SagDhish Chame Sapeetish Chamee, Krishish Chamee, Vrishtish Chame Jaitran Chama AudhBhidhyan Chamee Rayish Chame Raayash Chame Pushtan Chame Pushtish Chame VibhuChame , PrabhuChame Bahu Chame Bhuuyash Chame Puurnan Chame Purnataran Chame Kshitish Chame KuuyaVaash Chamee(A)Nann Chamee Shucch Chame Vreeha Yash Chamee YavaAash Chame MaashaAash Chame TilaAash Chame Muddaash Chame KhalvaAash Chame GodhumaAash Chame MasuraAash Chame PriyangaVash Chame NaVash Chamee.. Shyaama KaAash Chame NeevaaraAash Chame

Anuvaka – 5

Asmaa Chame Mrittika Chame Girayash Chame Parvataas Chame Sikataas Chame Vanaspatayas Chame Hiranyan Chame Yas Chame Sesshan Chame, Trapush Chame Shyaman Chame Lohan Chame Nish Chama Aapas Chame Veerudhas Chame Ooshadhayash Chame Krishta Pachyan Chame Krishta Pachyan Chame, Graamyaas Chame Pashava Aarayash Ch Yagnena Kalpanthaam Vittan Chame Vittish Chame Bhuutan Chame Bhuutis Chame Vasu Chame Vasathis Chame Karma Chame Shaktis Chame Thas Chama Emas Chama Itish Chame Gatish Chameee…

Anuvaka – 6

Agnis Chama Indras Chame Somas Chama Indras Chame
Savita Chama Indras Chame Saraswati Chama Indras Chame
Puusha Chama Indras Chame Varunas Chama Indras Chame
Mitras Chama Indras Chame Dhaata Chama Indras Chame
Vishnush Chama Indras Chame Shvinou Chama Indras Chame
Marutas Chama Indras Chame Vishwe Chame Devaa, Indras Chame
Prithvi Chama Indras ChameeN(An)Tariskshan Chama Indras Chame
Dhaush Chama Indras Chame Dishash Chama Indras Chame
Muurdha Chama Indras Chame, Prajapatish Chama Indras Chamee..

Anuvaka – 7

Agum Sus Chame Rasmish Chame DaaABhyash Chame Dhipatis Chama Upaa Gum Sus Chamee(N)Taryaan Mas Chama AindraVaaya Vas Chame Maitra Varunas Chama Aashvinas Chame Prathiprasthaanas Chame Shukras Chame Manthi Chama Aagrayanas Chame Vaishwa Devas Chame, Druvas Chame Vaishwaa Naras Chama Rutu Grahaas Chame TigraHyaas Chama  Aindraagnas Chame Vaishwa Devas Chame  Marutva Theeyaa.. Aash Chame Mahendras Chama Aadityas Chame Saavitras Chame SaarasVatas Chame Paushnash Chame PaatniVatash Chame Haariyojanas Chame ee..

Anuvaka – 8

Idhmash Chame Barhish Chame Vedish Chame Dhrishniyaas Chame Sruchas Chamee Chamasaas Chame Graavanas Chamee, SwaraVash Chama Uparavaas Chame Ghishavane Chame Dronakalasas Chame VayavvYaane Chame Puuta Bhricch Chama AadhaVaneeyas Chama AagniiDhan Chame Havir Dhaanan Chame Grihaas Chame Sadas Chame PuroodaShaas Chame Pachataash Chame Vabhrutas Chame Swagaa Kaarash Chameee….

Anuvaka – 9

Agnis Chame Dharmas Chameer, Kas Chame Suuryas Chame, Praanas Chamee(A)Shvame Dhash Chame Prithvi Chame Ditish Chame Ditish Chame Dhaush Chame Shakkvari Rangulayoo Dishash Chame Yagnena Kalpantaam Mrikcha Me Saama Chame, Sthomash Chame Yajush Chame Deekshaa Chamee Tapash Chama Rutush Chamee, Vratan Chamee Ho RatraYoo…oor Vrishtyaa Brihad Rathan Tharee Chamee Yagnena Kalpeetam

Anuvaka – 10

GarbhaAas Chame Vatsaash Chame TrayaVish Chame TrayaVee Chame DityaVaat Chame DithYauhi Chame PanchaaVish Chame Panchaavi Chame, Trivatsas Chame, Trivatsaa Chame TuryaVaat Chame TurYauhi Chame PashtaVaach Chame Pashtauhi Chama Ukshaa Chame Vashaa Chama Rishabhas Chame VehaCchh Chame Nadvaan Chame Dhenus Chama Aayur Yagnena Kalpataam, Praano Yagnena Kalpataam Apaano Yagnena Kalpataam Vyaano Yagnena Kalpataan Chakshur KalpathaaGis Shrotrai Yagnena Kalpataam Mano Yagnena Kalpataam Vaag Yagnena Kalpataam Aatmaa Yagnena Kalpataain, Yagnoo Yagnena Kalpataam

Anuvaka – 11

The 11th Anuvaka is beautiful and unique. It consists of numbers. Anuvakas 1 to 10, the devotee prays for almost everything needed for human happiness. In the 11th Anuvaka, the devotee prays for the desired things not specifically but in terms of numbers, first in terms of odd numbers from 1 to 33 and later in multiples of 4 from 4 to 48.

Ekaa Chame Tisrash Chame Pancha Chame Sapta Chame Nava Chama Ekaadasha Chamee, Trayodasha Chame Pancha Dasha Chame Sapta Dasha Chame Nava Dasha Chama EkaViGum Shatish Chamee , Trayo ViGum Shatish Chame Pancha ViGum Shatish Chame Sapta ViGum Shatish Chame Nava ViGum Shatish Chama Eka TriGum Shacchh Chame Trayas TriGum Shacchh Chame ChataSrash Chamee Shtau Chamee Dvadasha Chame Shodasha Chamee Vi Gum Shatish Chame
Chatur ViGum Shatish Chame(Me)Shta ViGum Shatish Chame Dwaatri Gum Shacchh Chame Kshatri Gum Shacchh Chame
Chatvaari Gum Shacchh Chame Chatush Chatvaari Gum Shacch Chame Vaajas Ch PrasaVashChaa Pijas Ch Kratush Ch Suvash Ch Muurdha ChavYashni Yash ChaantYaayanas ChaantYascha Bhau Vanascha BuvaNasChaa(A)dhipatis Ch

Shanti Mantra

Idaa DevaHuur Manur YagnaNeir Brihaspati Rukthaa Madaani Sa Gum Shishad Vishwe Devaa, Suukta Vaacha Prithvi Maatar Maa Mahi Gum Sher, Madhu Manishye Madhu Janishye Madhu Vakshyaami Madhu Vadisyaami Madhumateem, Devebhyo Vaachamudyaasa Gum Shushro Sheenyaa..am Manushyee..ee Bhyastam Ma Devaa Avantu ShobhaaYay Pitaronu Madantuu

Om Shanti Shanti Shantihi

Anuvaka 11 – Significance of numbers

ODD NUMBERS

1 = Nature or Prakriti
3 = The three gunas, namely sattwa, rajas and tamas
5 = The five mahabhutas, or the five basic elements, that is, prithvi, ap, tejas, vayu and akasha, (earth, water, energy or agni or fire, wind and space).
7 = The five sensory organs and the mind and intellect
9 = The nine openings in the human body, called the navadwaras.
11 = The ten pranas and the Sushumna nadi
13 = Thirteen Devas
15 = The nadis or nerve centres in the human body
17 = The limbs of the human body
19 = Medicinal herbs
21 = Important vulnerable parts of the body
23 = Devas controlling serious diseases
25 = Apsaras in heaven
27 = Gandharvas
29 = Vidyut Devas
31 = Worlds
33 = Devas

MULTIPLES OF FOUR
4 = The four ideals of human life, namely dharma, artha, kama and moksha,
(righteous way of life, wealth, desire, and salvation)
8 = The four Vedas and the four upavedas
12 = Six vedangas and six shastras.
16 = Knowledge to be obtained from God
20 = The Mahabhutas
24 = The number of letters in the Gayatri mantra.
28 = The number of letters in the Ushnik mantra.
32 = The number of letters in the Anushtup mantra.
36 = The number of letters in the Brihati mantra.
40 = The number of letters in the Pankti mantra.
44 = The number of letters in the Trushtup mantra
48 = The number of letters in the Jagati mantra

 

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Navnath Temple from Shirdi – Trip Planner

20 Jul

Who are the Nath Yogis ?

The Yogis who belong to the Nath Sampradaya, and perform special yogic practices are called the Nath Yogis. Nath or Natha is a Sanskrit word which means “Lord, Master or Protector”.

Nath Sampradaya was supposed to have been founded by Adi Nath, who is none other than Lord Shiva himself. The knowledge of Hatha or Raja Yoga was then passed on to Matsyendranath, Gorakshanath and so on in a succession of a Guru – Shishya (disciple) manner. In this way the knowledge and its essence was preserved in its pure form. Some members of the Nath Sampraday believe Rishi Dattatreya, an incarnation of the Hindu trinity Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva was its first teacher. A notable aspect of Nath tradition practice has been its refinements and use of Yoga, particularly Hatha Yoga.

To know more about Nath Sampradaya click the link below.

More about Nath Sampradaya

Nav Nath 

Navnath are the nine saints on whom the Nath Sampradaya, the lineage of the nine gurus, is based.

  • Machindranath or Matsyendranath
  • Gorakshanath or Gorakhnath
  • Jalindranath
  • Kanifnath or Kanhoba
  • Gahininath or Gehininath
  • Bhartrinath or Bhartarinath or Raja Bhartari or Bhartṛhari
  • Revananath or Revan Siddh or Kada Siddha or Ravalanath
  • Charpatinath or Charpatakshnath
  • Naganath or Nageshnath

Navnath Temple in Maharashtra 

Navnath’s are highly revered in Maharashtra and they have a large following. There are 9 Temples / Samadhis of these saints which are very popular among the locals. Very limited knowledge is available in the public domain about these temples and this Blog should help those interested in visiting these divine places.

If you want to visit these temples contact Sai Aditya Travels Shirdi (Arvind) and ask for driver Rahul or Sachin + 91 99705 75677, +91 96232 60379

Trip Plan 

With Shirdi as base we started at 7.30 AM and headed out on the Ahmednagar Manmad highway. After ~ 35Km we stopped for breakfast at Samadhan Hotel.

By 9.15 AM we reached Gorakhnath Temple at Maanjar Sumba Dongargan, Ahmednagar District. The temple is on the top of a small hill – 1000 Feet and you climb a few steps. As you drive up the hill towards the steps the view is scenic. Green hills and lovely views. You will cross a Goshala with many well fed local breed cows grazing on the natural herbs. The temple is very well maintained – and one of the first things you see is a large Dhuni. This is something you will find in all the Nath Temples. All of them were located atop a hill / surrounded by greenery.

A short 15 min drive from here we reach the Samadhi shrine of Minnath. He was one of Matsyendranath’s two sons. Unfortunately this place is now called Miravali Baba Dargah.

Our 3rd stop was at the beautiful and energised Vriddheswar temple at Ghatshiras. Located in a valley surrounded by thick forests and hills. It is a 1 hr drive from the Minnath Samadhi (50 Km). This temple is very special for the Nath sampraday and is considered the sadhna sthal of the Nath’s. It is believed that Lord Shiva came here disguised as an old man to attend the Yagna being conducted by Matsyendranath & Gorakhnath. The Shiva Linga is not the typical shape – it is large and amorphous and looks eroded because of the effect of water. Locals claim that this Shiv Linga is growing every year. Another unique aspect of the temple – it has 2 Nandi’s.

A short 20 min drive (on a normal day) will take you to the Samadhi temple of Matsyendranath at Mayamba. The last few kms are mud roads. We were visiting on a Monday that happened to be Amavasya – so there were huge crowds. When planning your trip avoid visiting on Amavasya. This is again a large temple and further expansion is under process. Again very scenic location on top of a hill.

7 Km from Mayamba a 15 – 20 min drive is the Samadhi temple of Kanifnath. It’s again on top of a hill. The car goes a long way – but the final ascent is a few hundred steps. There are two Q’s – ensure you are in the Q that goes right next to the Samadhi , the second Q is for distant viewing. As you walk out you will see signs for a small cave where Kanifnath meditated. Do visit this place. From the Kanifnath temple you can get a good view of the Matsyendranath temple further up.

Our last stop for the day was the Mohota Devi temple at Pathardi. A large well maintained temple up a hill. Timing was good it was evening and breezy.

As you drive out of the temple you can spot a few lodges including one managed by the temple trust. You can choose to stay here (rooms are basic). We explored trying to find a better place and settled at Hotel Prashant in the outskirts of Pathardi. Its a new hotel and the rooms were decent with AC & Hot water – at 1500 Rs / night it was perfect.

We had dinner at one of the small family run restaurants on the way back from the Mohota Temple. Homely local food – Bajra Ki Bhakri, Baingan Sabji, Kadi, Petla, Aloo Vadi, Papad & Mirchi Ka thecha. Food was freshly prepared on a chula and served fresh and hot. All the ingredients from the owners farm.

Day 2 we start at 7 AM on the Amalner Beed road. We are headed to Chincholi – 60 Km, 1 1/2 Hrs to visit the Samadhi temple of Gahni Nath. Enroute we stop for a breakfast of Vada Pav & Chai . The drive is scenic – after a few rains everything is lush green. Full of black soil we see fields of Cotton, Sugarcane, Pomegranate, Mosambi and Lime orchards. The last few kilometres are breathtakingly scenic with hills and valleys as long as the eyes can see. Of all the places I liked this the best. This Samadhi  is managed by a Kumbhar family. They had to take permission from the Nizam – after 21 years of waiting they finally got approval once Ambedkar became the home minister. Many of the Samadhi Sthals are contentious and claimed to be those of Islamic Pir’s. Some are even under litigation.

The energy in all the places we had visited was beautiful but this place was divine. The solitude added to the charm. Close to this samadhi site is a larger temple which is the Paduka Temple of Gahni Nath. Many tourists get confused as the Paduka Temple is also called Samadhi Mandir. Gahni Nath was the guru of Nivrutti Maharaj the elder brother of sant Jnyaneshwar.

Our next stop was a 30 min scenic drive to Yavalvadi. We drove up a hillock. Again a wonderful place – perfect for solitude and meditation. This houses the meditation cave of Jalendranath. Barring the priest who manages the temple there was nobody here and it was a nice experience sitting in the meditation cave.

The Samadhi temple of Jalendranath is close by – a 10 min drive.

The next stop was a long 125 Km drive and the last 25 km of the roads were atrocious. We were driving through Beed, one of the poorest tribal regions of Maharashtra. This journey took us well over 4 hrs to the samadhi temple of Bhartari Nath. The temple is a little unkept but the Samadhi cave was highly energised.

We are now 350 Kms from Shirdi and its 4 PM – the drive back is a 5 hr drive. The Amavasya crowds of day 1 and the bad roads on day 2 have taken away 4 – 5 precious hours. We have covered 6 Navnath temples + a lot more. We had planned to cover  Vatsidh Nagnath which was not far from Parli Vaijnath. We are forced to head back and plan the remaining temples another trip. The road back is good and the last 75 Km we are on the Samriddhi super highway. We make it back to Shirdi by 8.45 PM. We have covered 890 Km in 2 days and accomplished a lot. Travelling solo helps in saving time.

Few Travel Tips 

  • You are travelling in Central Maharashtra – Ahmednagar / Beed / bordering Latur district. Summers can be exceedingly hot and dry. I was lucky – in mid July it was pleasant and green. This place receives scanty rainfall.
  • Airtel network is not reliable – this is Jio territory.
  • You cannot do this trip with Google Maps and any driver from Mumbai / Pune. You need a local driver who knows to locate these places. Better still someone who has done this – hence my first point ask for Rahul or Sachin when you make the booking with Arvind at Sai travels.
  • Simple fresh food is available enroute – no fancy restaurants, bathrooms will be Indian style on the highway. Breakfast is normally Poha / Vada Pav / Chai.
  • Holy book of the Nath Sampraday is Navanath Bhaktisar – unfortunately it is in Marathi (maybe Hindi Translation). If anyone can find an English translation please share it with me. There are many more great Hindu texts written by the Nath Rishis that include Gorakṣaśataka, Goraksha Samhita, Goraksha Gita etc.
  • Matsyendranath is revered not just by Hindus but even by Buddhists. In the Tibetan tradition, Matsyendranath is identified with Luipa, one referred to as the first of Buddhist Siddhacharyas. In Nepal, he is a form of Buddhist Avalokiteshvara.
  • Matsyendranath & Gorakhnath are included in the list of 18 Tamil Siddhars
  • The birth of all the Navnath’s have interesting stories. You should google and read on them. Some commentators claim that Lord Krishna talks about the Navnath coming to earth to help people in their journey during Kaliyug.
  • Avoid travelling on Amavasya – these are beautiful places best enjoyed in solitude.
  • My driver was an excellent driver and a wonderful guide cum partner – he went the extra mile to locate these places.

 

About Matsyendranath 

Navnath Sampraday

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Is it the best of both worlds ? Indians settled in the US

20 Apr

After a lovely 2 month trip to the US its not just the jet lag that takes time to wear off – but also the US effect. Since my first visit to US in 1998 the discussion with friends and relatives always comes down to the Pros & Cons of US Vs India. It is true that there is a mad rush for the US Green card and an increasing number of students are heading to US Colleges spending a fortune. So why the debate – isn’t it a clear winner ? Lets look at some perspectives and views that came up while meeting friends and relatives.

Confident – Independent – Busy : That summarises the people I met and observed in the US. From school the education system grooms you to be independent. A building friend had moved to US 6 years back when her twins were in class 4. When they met the principal at school he assured them that the goal in Class 4 was to make the kids independent. And I could see the transformation in posture, communication, clarity of thought. Not just that –  the kids cook their own meals, pack their own food to school, and are clear on where they want to go for college.

Skilled and Productive : The era of a generalist is gone. Everyone is trained to be a specialist and is good at what they do. This is what makes the person confident. People pursue a career they enjoy and stick to what they do. Almost everyone I met had been working at the same place for 20 + years.

The sword is always hanging : That is how my school friend described life in the US. You can never be in a zone of complacency. Life is always like running on the treadmill. This ensures you dont get rusty and musty. Layoffs are common and come unexpectedly. Its part of life. Many of my friends who had spend 15 years in the US followed by 15 years in India were happy to get back to the US in their 50’s. The quality of professional life is much better.

Dual Engine family : Life in the US -There can be no passengers. The whole family pulls the train. This is the land of DIY. The systems and processes are good but there is no help. From fixing the furniture to cooking, washing, cleaning, driving, plumbing, shovelling the snow from your driveway – Unlike India there are no servants at your command. It may sound scary to the average Indian – but its not hard work. US is not dusty and crowded like India so the house barely gets dirty. Life doesn’t rotate around food and most people cook once or twice a week – frozen food is the norm not the exception. The system works – everything is organised, that takes away the stress from day to day life.

Everything is available : The Indian stores in US are now mainstream. You can get everything you want – from vegetables, grocery, instant dosa dough…. you dont miss anything even in the remote corners of small town USA. If you dont have the time to visit an Indian store – Amazon delivers in 24 hrs a Prestige cooker or Masala Chai. Many US retail stores have started stocking Indian/Asian food.

Clean, organised, predictable : The best part of the US is the finishing touch – no cutting corners. The leftover food is packed in such nice containers you dont feel like throwing it away. The retail experience is wonderful, driving and parking cars is a pleasure. Driving 45 Miles in 45 minutes is almost always achievable. UBER is clean and wow. There is choice –  from milk to orange juice to potatoes – you have a diverse variety for every palette.

The system works : Commitments are met and cheating is rare. You get a refund with no questions asked. We moved into a new apartment that was 25+ years old – it looked spanking new, everything worked perfectly. No calls to electrician or plumber. The Broadband gear was ordered online and arrived in 24 hrs and it was a 15 min job to get it connected and working. (In Bangalore its a 1/2 day job to get Broadband set up in our apartment with a Airtel rep and the building electrician struggling to figure out the cabling)

But its lonely … 

Life is busy and you rarely get to meet people. In a beautiful apartment complex of 150+ houses you rarely get to see people. The kid below our house comes out at 4 PM every day with his ball – but he is alone. My morning walk  for nearly 2 months I hardly saw people on the streets. The good thing is its also quiet and serene. The whole place is like an Ashram.

And its expensive … 

The only thing I missed in my morning walk was a cup of chai and the Vada from the local Darshini. That is something you will not get. Coffee is 6 dollars and if you add a muffin + tips you are knocking at 15 dollars. The simplest of meals / person – Burger / Pizza / Chipotle Bowl … will be in the 15 dollar range. Fine dining in a mid range restaurant with starters and drinks can be 75 – 100 Dollars for two.

But not everything is expensive – a high end car in the US is cheaper than its equivalent in India and so is petrol. The system rewards you to plan – an Amtrak ticket to New York ( 110 miles) can vary between 21 USD – 150 USD depending on when you book it.

Most importantly the Zing is missing 

You have everything but the energy is missing – at least in the 50 year olds. There is a sense of ” been there done that” – but the journey is not over as one needs to keep working till 65 to cover medical insurance. The blog below summarises the different stages of life in the US – and 50 + is not the happiest of phases. But then having lived all your adult life and with kids settled there you are not ready to come back.

 “Is Settling In USA Worth It For Indians?”

Parents & Old age homes 

In your old age you are on your own. Nobody has the time / resources to look after their parents like we do in India. Many Indians get their parents a green card and for many years they shuttle back and forth before finally settling down at “nana nani”in Coimbatore.  The annual pilgrimage to India continues to meet your parents – at least for the first generation.

Where does India score …. 

Is India shining a reality – a relative felt that India was making too much noise and not much had changed for the better in the last 25 years. Yes the roads are a mess and we still dont know to make footpaths and manage our garbage. Water / electricity / safety are all concerns but there are a few +ves

Digital economy – we are way ahead globally. Banking transactions on the App, Covid certificates online … very few countries can match India when it comes to the progress we have made on the Digital arena.

Healthcare – Costs are affordable and the facilities are good in the urban centres with the bigger hospitals. US medical costs can make you bankrupt – if your company doesn’t cover your insurance you may end up paying 500 – 750 dollars / month for insurance cover.

Affordable – At the higher end (Luxury cars / Villas) costs in India are comparable or more expensive than the US – but day to day expenses are a lot cheaper. Food, hotels , flight, clothes all cost a fraction of what they cost in USA.

So is there a winner …. 

Well if you open the gates to the US a very large segment of India will rush in, I am not sure if the same can be said the other way round. Independent people, competent with skills, ready to learn and adapt …. these people will love the US way of life. Younger generation, professionals will definitely choose US over India. For the rest its a matter of choice …. or destiny

 

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Explore Jyotirlinga’s of MP + Maheshwar, Mandu

25 Oct

Thanks to direct flights from Bangalore most destinations across India are now an easy 2 – 3 day trip. The 2 Jyotirlinga’s of MP were on my list for some time and when I got started it was easy to plan and execute. MP is beautiful and waiting to be explored – with direct 90 min flights to Indore & Bhopal it is easy to access. MP is a large state and there is lots to see – what we accomplished in 3 nights was Ujjain / Omkareshwar / Maheshwar / Mandu & Indore

Indigo 7.30 AM flight reaches Indore at 9 AM. Indore to Ujjain is 60 Km and the drive is 75 min including a breakfast stop for Poha / Jalebi / Kachori  (This is the breakfast you will get all across MP)

Ujjain is an ancient city on the banks of the Shipra river. Since 600 BC it was the political centre of central India and the capital of the Avanti kingdom. Ujjain is called the Greenwich of India – this is where the zero meridian and Tropic of Cancer intersect. Before Greenwich (in 1854) Ujjain was considered as the central meridian for time in India. Even today when a Hindu horoscope is drawn up the time is always referenced to Ujjain time. Time is KAAL and Ujjain is home to Mahakaal – the ancient Jyotirlinga. Ujjain is also where the Kumbh Mela is held every 12 years.

You can cover all that there is to see in Ujjain easily in 1/2 a day – we were lucky with no crowds – Oct 10th was a Monday and the 1st day of the holy Karthik month, thankfully Prime Minister Modi was to inaugurate the development work around the Jyotirlinga on 11th so the crowds had stayed away.

What to see in Ujjain 

Harsiddhi Mata Temple a Shaktipeeth where Devi’s elbow is supposed to have fallen. the normal practise is to visit the Devi temple before proceeding to the Mahakaleshwar temple

The ancient Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga temple is a 5 min walk from the Shatipeeth. A friendly priest took us in bypassing the sparse crowds. You can carry your phone and there are no dress restrictions. Compared to the other 9 Jyotirlinga’s I have visited – the Lingam at Mahakaal is large. The temple complex is small – there is a shrine for Omkareshwar and on the 3rd floor a shrine for the snake god – that is open only on Nag Panchami. There is also a shrine dedicated to Navagrahas with 9 Lingams.

Mahakaal is famous for the early morning Bhasm Arti at 4 AM , and you need to book tickets months in advance. Its a sight to see at least once in your lifetime, and I intend to come back. With the new development works being inaugurated – I guess a trip to Mahakaal could be longer in future.

Ujjain was the capital of the great king Vikramaditya and Kalidasa wrote his grand epic Meghaduta here. As you exit the temple you will see a park and statue dedicated to King Vikramaditya and his Navaratnas.

There are hundreds of temple in the ancient city of Ujjain but these are the must visit places

  1. Sandipani Ashram where Lord Krishna, Balram & Sudama studied. It is a beautiful place with high energy vibes. It also has some ancient temples.
  2. Ancient Kalbhairav temple – where you can offer liquor as Prasad.
  3. Ram Ghat is of immense religious significance to Hindus as it is one of the four locations where the Kumbh Mela takes place every 12 years. It is believed that Lord Vishnu dribbled some drops of Amrit at Ram Ghat.
  4. Mangalnath temple considered the birth place of Mars.

Ujjain also has a Jantar Mantar. This was the city where Varāhamihira (c. 505 – c. 587) an ancient Indian astrologer, astronomer, and polymath lived. Aryabhata, Brahmagupta, Bhaskara I & II, Vateshwara, all are said to have worked at Ujjain.

Most people dont stay at Ujjain – they consider it a Jinx. We stayed at a nice place called Sri Ganga hotel. Its a very famous sweet shop of Ujjain and they have rooms on the higher floors. Rooms are very spacious and clean. Ujjain is a clean city with broad roads and green parks. We had the evening free to roam around the city and visit the market area called Freeganj. 

Day 2 we leave for Omkareshwar at 7.30 AM 

Indore is centrally located between Ujjain & Omkareshwar. The drive to Omkareshwar from Ujjain took us about 4 hrs. Most of it is through villages but the last section is through beautiful hilly landscapes.

Omkareshwar is an island on the banks of the Narmada – the tradition is to visit Omkareshwar & Mamleshwar to complete the Jyotirlinga trip. Omkareshwar is also being developed – a 120 feet statue dedicated to Adi Shankara and an international Advaita Vedanta Sansthan is coming up here.

Omkareshwar is where the young Adi Shankara in search of his Guru met Govinda Bhagvatpada. The cave where Shankara lived is right below the Sanctum Sanctorum of the Omkareshwar Temple and there are steps that lead up to the temple and down to the ghats. Not many people know of this cave – and it was quiet and empty. Visiting this cave was the highlight of this trip.

Many people do a Parikrama around Omkareshwar – that takes about 3 – 4 hrs. The boat ride Parikrama was closed because the Narmada was in full spate after heavy rains.

A friendly priest showed us all the places (Pandit Bhagwat Mishra – 99265 55753) We were able to cover all the sites in Omkareshwar / Mamleshwar between 11.30 – 1.30 and headed out to Maheshwar the capital of Rani Ahilyabai Holkar. 

The small town of Maheshwar is located 70 Km from Omkareshwar and we reached by 2.45. Good roads. we stayed at the MPT Narmada Resort at Maheshwar which is located on the banks of the river Narmada. Its a nice property – book the new suite with river facing rooms. The restaurant also serves good fresh food.

Maheshwar was the capital of Rani Ahilyaba Holkar. It’s a small clean town – like a small European fort village. Take a guide to visit the fort. We used the services of Ashwin – 8602877830. A part of the fort has been converted to an heritage hotel.

Budget about 1 1/2 hrs to see the fort and as you walk back to your resort do stop over in one of the factory outlets for the world famous Maheshwari sarees, lightweight – silk / cotton mix in prices range from Rs 2500 – 7500.

We spent the night at MPT Narmada and enjoyed a nice walk by the river the next day morning. The Narmada is wide, beautiful and serene – it’s a rejuvenating experience walking in the ghats here – almost alone.

Post breakfast we left at 9.30 AM to Mandu. 

Day 3 we reach Mandu 

Maheshwar to Mandu is only 46 Kms. Its a beautiful scenic drive. Mandu is on a hilltop and was the capital of the Paramaras in 10th & 11th century before it was taken over by the Delhi Sultanate and then the Afghans, Khiljis & finally the Mughals. The structure is spread over multiple locations so budget two sessions of 2 hrs each to cover all the sights at a relaxed pace. One of the tombs here is was the inspiration for the Taj. Mandu is also famous for the love story of rani Roopmati & Sultan Baz Bahadur

We stayed at MPT Maheshwar – a very nice resort (Note that there are two MPT Resorts in Mandu – ensure that you book the MPT Malwa Resort)

You will need a guide to explore Mandu (Mohammad – 7748072889)

Day 4 we head back to Indore 

Mandu – Indore ~ 100 Km , 2 hrs. After breakfast we left Mandu at 9.30 AM and reached Indore at 11.30. You should book your return flight to Bangalore by the 5 PM Indigo.

Had lunch with my college friend who helped me plan this trip at lovely restaurant called Mitti cafe. https://www.mitti.cafe. Loved the ambience and the food.

Indore is famous for Namkeens – so dont forget to visit Om Namkeens and stock up. There are a few temples and places to visit in Indore if you are interested.

In summary MP is a clean, affordable, easy to access state with lots to see. Excellent food – almost everything is Veg. Good simple people. We have just covered one part of MP – there is lots more as the map on the top of the blog indicates. So it will take a few more trip to discover all the sights of MP. One of the local hotel staff tole me that Nirmala Travels from Bangalore has taken a lead in promoting group trips to MP and most tourists come from Bangalore.

Network is good and 3G worked everywhere – economy is still cash based and UPI payments are not accepted everywhere.

My friend helped organise the cab from Indore Airport and the driver was with us all though the 3 night – 4 days – 580 Km trip – he can be contacted at 9893962781 – Mangilal. 

Thanks to my college mates Rahul & Rashmikant who helped me plan this trip. So 11 Jyotirlinga’s done that leaves the Baidyanath Temple at Deoghar – and it’s good to note that the airport at Deoghar has opened recently.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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3 Jyotirlinga of Maharashtra with Shirdi as base

8 Aug

This is an easy to execute trip planner to cover the 3 Jyotirlinga temples in Maharashtra with Shirdi as the base. My trip started from Bangalore. I was travelling in 1st week of Aug – midst of monsoon during the auspicious month of Shravan and was very lucky to get excellent Darshan with no rains in the 3 days of travel. Also my Sarthi (Rahul) was a valuable asset – driver cum guide, without him I could not have accomplished so much

  1. Plan your travel on weekdays – weekends can be very crowded
  2. Avoid visiting the Jyotirlinga’s on Monday – gets very crowded
  3. Avoid visiting Shirdi on Thursday – It is the busiest day

Rather than hopping across multiple hotels in different cities, I made Shirdi my base.

  • 12627 Karnataka express leaves Bangalore at 7.20 PM and reaches Kopargaon  (KPG)  at 1.45 PM. 1st AC is very convenient. Fare is ~ 3000 Rs.
  • I had booked a cab for the entire trip. The drive from Kopargaon to Shirdi is 15 Km – less than 30 min.
  • The Bhagyalaxmi hotel which is a 2 min walk from the Shirdi temple was my base for the next 3 nights. It is a very comfortable hotel priced ~ 2200 / night.

Day – 1 : I had booked an evening Dhoop Aarti at 7 PM. the Aarti is from 7 – 7.30 PM – entry is from Gate 1 at 6 PM. Leave phones in your room. Only wallets are allowed inside. There are 4 Aartis every day starting with the Kakad Aarti early morning , followed by one at noon , the evening Dhoop Aarti and the last one at 9.30 PM. All Aartis need to be booked online on the Saibaba Sansthan Trust Website. This link provides full detail to plan your Shirdi temple visit. Shirdi Temple Details 

Imp Point – As you exit the Samadhi Mandir look for the small Dattatreya Temple – most people miss this. Also at Sri Chawadi as you come out do not  miss the granite slab on which Sainath used to sit.

Day -2 : I started for Nasik at 6.30 AM and was able to complete all the sights and was back by 6.30 PM. Shirdi to Nasik is about 110 Km – 3 Hr drive. Roads were not great

    • You can stop at Gondeshwar temple in Sinnar – its 26 Km ahead of Nasik. Its one of the oldest temples of Maharastra – the cluster of temples is called Shiva Panchayatan. Built in the Hemadpanthi style of architecture by Hemadri Pandit a minister of the Yadav dynasty. This temple dates back to 12th century.
    • Trimbakeshwar is about 28 Km from Nasik – I was lucky that there were no rains and the crowd was sparse – had an excellent darshan in less than 1 hr. Phones are allowed inside – photography is not. The temple has a unique Jyotirlinga that is embedded inside the Yoni and unlike most Lingas here there are 3 dedicated to the Trinity – hence the name Trimbakeshwar. Locals claim that the Godavari flows below the Shiva Linga and then emerges in the Kushvart Teertha / Pond near the temple. The history of this ancient temple is associated with sage Gautama and how his prayers to resurrect a cow he killed led to Lord Shiva bringing Ganga here in the form of Godavari
    • Trimbakeshwar temple is surrounded by the Bhramagiri hills. This is the source of the Godavari – a 3 Hr trek (Down 2 hrs) can take you up the hill to the source. There are steps well laid out.
    • Just opposite the Trimbakeshwar temple is the Gorakhnath Ashram – a nice place to spend 15 minutes.
    • Saint Nivruttinath Samadhi is also in Trimbakeshwar – he was the elder brother and Guru of Sant Jnaneshwar.
    • Locals claim that the birth place of Lord Hanuman is also in Trimbakeshwar.
    • Overall on a good day you can budget 3 hrs for Trimbakeshwar if you are not doing the trek.
    • On the way to Panchavati we stopped at another ancient Shiva temple on the banks of the Godavari – The Someshwara temple and then headed for lunch at Shagun. 
    • At Panchavati the driver drops you in front of Kala Ram temple and then an Auto takes you for a spin around the 10 most important spots associated with Ramayana. This was the place where Sita was abducted by Ravana and Lakshmana chopped off the nose of Shupankaha (Thats the origin of the name Nasik). This section can be covered in less than 1 hr – the most interesting part was Sita’s Gufa.
    • There are a few more areas around Nasik like the Pandavleni Caves, Saptashrungi temple etc – which are 30 – 40 km away and you need more than a day to visit these places. Igatpuri the HQ of Goenka Ji’s Vipassna Centre is also 30 Km away.
    • On the way back to Shirdi we made two more stops – The Samadhi of Upasini Maharaj (a disciple of Sainath) at Sakori . And the Kalpa Vriksha Tree in Rahata – where Baba used to spend time to meet friends. The tree is unique and rare – dont miss it. Both these places are 10 Km from Shirdi and set in a rural environment.
  • Last stop for the day was Popat Vada Pav centre – a roadside eatery that serves the best Vada Pav in town.
    • All of the above was achieved in 12 hrs from 6.30 AM – 6.30 PM
    • Some rest, a quick shower and I headed out for a late evening darshan at Shirdi temple. It was a Thursday and thats the day when you can see the Palki that travels from Dwarka Mai to Samadhi Mandir.

Day – 3 : We head to Aurangabad.

  • Roads are not good and it takes us over 3 hrs to reach Aurangabad.  We started the day at 7.30 AM and were back at 6.30 PM.
  • 1st Stop was just outside Shirdi at Sant Janardhan Swami Maharaj Samadhi. The samadhi site also has a beautiful and ancient Shiva temple.

  • After a nice breakfast of Misal Pav and Poha we reached the Grishneshwar Jyotirlinga by 10.30 AM. This is the 12th Jyotirlinga and one of the smallest. Like in Kerala men have to remove their shirts and enter the temple bare bodied. You are allowed inside the Sanctum Sanctorum and can touch the Jyotirlinga

  • Right next to the Jyotirlinga is a Teertha / Pond that is not well maintained. The famous Ellora Caves is right next to the Temple and is definitely worth a visit – it is a UNESCO world heritage site. Ajanta Caves is 110 Km from here and that is a full day trip. Aurangabad also has Aurangzeb’s tomb.
  • From Aurangabad we headed to the village of Nevasa – 80 Km from Aurangabad. This is where the great Saint Jnaneshwar wrote the Jnaneshwari the Marathi Translation of the Gita. Its a beautiful temple very serene and calm – no crowd.

  • On the way to Nevasa do stop by at the ancient Siddheswar temple at Toka and the Rameshwaram Temple at Kai Gaon Toka. There is also a beautiful Dattatreya temple in an Ashram / Samadhi at Devgarh (Guru Dev Dutt / Kisan Giri Baba)

  • Aurangabad – Nevasa – Shirdi is like a triangle, we were back at Shirdi by 6.30 PM – and on the way we stopped for some delicious street food Pav Bhaji at Sai Prerna (It is right next next to the Vada Pav Stall)

Day – 4 : We head to Bhimashankar.

  • There are two routes – one Via Shani Shingnapur – Ahmednagar highway and the other by the Nasik Pune Road. We took the Nasik Pune highway and zipped by at 100 + km. Its a 4 1/2  hr drive to cover the 250 + km from Pune to Bhimashankar that included a stop for authentic Marathi breakfast at Rajkamal Kolhapuri Misal. This route is very scenic

  • The last section of the drive to Bhimashankar is thru the verdant W Ghats. There are no Hair pin bends – but the entire stretch is full of water bodies, misty hills – I was travelling in Aug the middle of Monsoon and it was beautiful. Very lucky that it was not raining.

  • Given its proximity to Pune & Mumbai – Bhimashankar can be very crowded on weekends. This was the only mistake in my travel planning – I reached Bhimashankar on Saturday morning at 10.30 and was faced with huge crowds and a potential wait time of 3 hrs. Our Innova was stopped a few kms ahead and we had to take the bus to the main shrine. By the grace of Lord Shiva I got lucky and a local lad helped me with an excellent darshan in 10 min. Here also you are allowed to enter the Sanctum Sanctorum and touch the Shiva Lingam.
  • The drive from Bhimashankar to Pune is 125 Km – once you reach the city outskirts you slow down. It took us nearly 4 hrs to reach Pune. A quick stop at my friends place where he treated me to some lovely local homemade snacks and then I headed out to the Airport for my 7 PM flight.

Other Points to plan your travel 

  • Arvind the proprietor of Sai Aditya Tours & travels helped me plan the trip. Making Shirdi the base was a great tip. My driver Rahul was amazing. If you book with Arvind insist on Rahul to be your driver. Arvind Ji – 99705 75677.
  • When in Maharashtra eat local food. Dont try Idli / Dosa here – feast on Vada Pav, Misal Pav, Poha etc

  • Network was excellent almost all through the trip – barring a few hrs from Bhimashankar to Pune.
  • Thanks to my driver Rahul a few more future trip ideas opened up in Maharashtra
    • Nav Nath temple tour – can be done in 1 day from Shirdi.
    • Most Marathis claim that there are 5 Jyotirlinga’s in Maharastra – the other two being Nagnath in Aundh & Parli Baijnath. These are farther off from the 3 that I covered.
    • The train to Kopargaon from Bangalore stops at Sholapur in the morning at 6.30 AM – this is the base for the Samadhi and Ashram of the great Saint Akallkot Maharaj – Swami Samarth
    • Kolhapur Lakshmi temple is also a must visit – its about 220 Km from Pune.
    • The Vittala temple at Pandharpur and the Dattatreya Temple in Gangapur can be covered together

 

Sacred Grove – A bit of the Himalayas near Bangalore

21 Jul

Tucked away amidst lush green paddy fields and surrounded by hillocks in what looks like no mans land is this beautiful place called Sacred Grove. Managed by The Satsang Foundation, it is powered by the vision of Sri M.

What is Sacred Grove 

It is neither an Ashram nor a Resort. It is a centre for Exploring Consciousness. 

Spread across 17 acres of pristine greenery this is an oasis of peace & tranquility. What you get here is solitude, fresh air, long walks along grassy pathways, the opportunity to pet a baby calf in the Goshala, research a subject in a well stocked library or enjoy the services of a professional wellness centre.

There are over 200 varieties of rare plants, herbs and trees with exotic flowers and medicinal properties that attract many a rare bird and butterfly. So when you get up in the morning and sit down for your meditation be prepared to be disturbed by a variety of tweets.

Where is Sacred Grove located 

About 150 Km from Bangalore – Its a 3 hr drive from Koramangla if you leave at 7 AM. Located  in a village called Pedda Kondamari, in Chowdapalli – Chittoor District. Take the Tirupathi NH upto Mulbagal and then a left towards Punganur. On the way dont miss the special Mulbagal Dosa at VVR Anand Bhavan. (Located on the other side of the road a km before you take your left turn)

Madanapalli is 1 Hr away but while coming from Bangalore if you drive Via Madanapalli the drive time will be almost 5 Hrs.

Which is the best time to visit 

Summers can be hot – but the rest of the year its beautifully. Especially during & after the rains. Given the greenery all around there is a pleasant breeze all day through and evenings are very pleasant. The night sky is brilliant.

What about the accommodation (Sadhak Nivas)

You need to book in advance. There are 5 operational cottages that can accommodate 20 people. The rooms are very well designed and spacious. They are simple but classy. From the curtains to the mats there is an eye for detail in every single thing. All the cottages have a sit out in the front & rear.  They are named after the plants that grow in front of them – Rudraksha, Kanuga, Parijata etc. Rooms are well equipped and all you need to carry are your toiletries & soap.

So what do I do at Sacred Grove 

I keep myself busy from 5 AM to 10 PM.

You can start the day with meditation / Yoga / Chanting – find a nice green corner or sit in the portico near the library or by the Madan Gopal shrine. Enjoy the rising sun. Then have a cup of tea and go for a long walk – take your slippers off and enjoy the dew laden moist grass on your feet. Visit the Goshala and say Hi to the 14 Traditional Gir cows that came all the way from Melkote. Morning 7 AM is when they get milked listening to some lovely instrumental music. (Dont forget to get them some Gud & Bananas)

After breakfast you can spend time at the well stocked library. Post lunch – take a nap or get back to the library. In the evening you could go watch a talk by Sri M at the library, explore the campus, just sit by the water conservation pond or the old well and do nothing. You could visit one of the shrines and do some chanting or meditation.  Volunteer for some work in the kitchen or garden. Dinner starts by 7.30.

And dont forget to book a session at ArogyaM the ayurvedic wellness centre that offers traditional therapies.

If you are friendly with the library in-charge Anand, he may take you for a trek up one of the hillocks close by. Budget 2 – 3 hrs for that. Treks are normally done in the morning.

There is no TV at Sacred Grove – but the 4G network is good. There is also Wi Fi at the Library. But this is a place where you should stay away from your gadgets.

What about the food 

Food is simple, fresh, healthy, vegetarian fare served at the well equipped Kitchen – Santrupti. Some items are home grown – Millets, groundnuts , few veggies etc. Milk comes from the Goshala. Menu is mostly S Indian. There is no concept of room service or customised food. You get 3 nutritious meals a day – and if you want to snack or have a sweet tooth carry some stuff with you. There are no shops close by. You have a kettle in your room so you can make your morning tea.

Is there a fixed routine

Nope – this is not an Ashram. Yes there are fixed timings for meals at the dining room – but other than that you decide how you want to spend your time.

If you happen to join a retreat or a wellness centre program then there will be a routine to be followed.

About the Wellness Centre (ArogyaM) 

The wellness centre is run by a professional company. There are doctors, therapists and well equipped treatment rooms. They have 9 rooms for stay & 4 treatment rooms.  It is a self sufficient centre and is centred around the Dhanvanthri shrine. The centre regularly organises multi day wellness camps targeted at specific areas of health.

The well stocked Library 

The Library has over 1200 books covering diverse topics. From Sufi literature to Nath Sampraday, Ramkrishna to Ramana, Lakshman Joo to Aurobindo, Yoga, Tantrashastra, Vedas & Vedanta…. – its a paradise for a spiritual seeker. The Library also has a well equipped AV system.

Is it safe – so far away in the midst of nowhere

It is perfectly safe – Yes Nagraj and many of his disciples live here but they have not troubled anyone. This is their house – we are the guest. Be careful while walking at night and keep the doors and window nets closed at all times. I haven’t seen monkeys but the locals say that they exist.

The closest shop is 5 Km away. Carry your medicines / torch / snacks / umbrella / floppy hat / a trekking stick if you plan to go trekking. Dont carry plastic bottles – the place is clean and pure lets not mess it up.

A few more points 

Dont plan a rushed day trip. Enjoy this place by spending at least a few days. I try to come for 3 nights every month. This place is best enjoyed in solitude so come alone. This is NOT a family get away – most kids will get bored. If you have food allergies and need customised food or you cannot survive without your 6 AM Filter Coffee then you may find it a little difficult here. Rooms are great for two people with two single beds.

Background 

Sacred Grove is managed by The Satsang Foundation. The centre was launched on 4th June 2018 with a ground breaking ceremony by Sri M.

Later the Goshala was launched followed by the consecration of the Madana Gopal Shrine on 26th Aug 2021.

The Library, Wellness Centre, Dining Hall & Sadhak Nivas were inaugurated by Sri M on 3rd July, 2022.

Sri M with the team that came up with this divine place in a short span of 4 years. Building & maintaining a place so far away from a commercial hub is not easy – so full credit to the team for having done an outstanding job.

Sacred Grove is already attracting great reviews with repeat visitors. Give it a few more years as the trees grow and the energy of the place blooms – the paradise will get better.

How do I book a cottage at Sacred Grove 

Drop a mail to book a room at sacredgrove.sadhaknivas@gmail.com. The place is open to all.

You can also sponsor a cottage and get 50 days of free stay/ year for 15 years.

 

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Bangalore to Srisailam – Jyotirlinga & Shakti Peeth

25 Jun

Popular as Kailash of the South among the 12 Jyotirlingas in India; Srisailam Mallikarjuna Jyotirlinga temple is located atop Shri Saila Mountain, on the banks of River Krishna. The temple of Mallikarjuna consists of deities of Shiva and Bhramaramba or Parvati and is listed as one among the 52 shakti peeths of Sati. Mallikarjuna Jyotirlinga is one of the greatest Shaivite shrines of the country. The sanctum enshrines Lord Mallikarjuna in the form of a linga protected by a three-hooded cobra. This ancient temple built in the Dravidian style with lofty towers and sprawling courtyards is one of the finest specimens of Vijayanagara architecture. Though the exact origins of the temple are not available, the Satavahanas of the 2nd century AD have referred to it. The Kakatiyas and the Vijayanagara kings have made several endowments here. Adi Shankara is said to have visited this shrine and composed his immortal Sivananda Lahiri here. Lord Dattatreya and many revered saints like Akka Mahadevi are associated with the Srisailam temple.

Reaching Srisailam 

At a distance of 87 Km from Markapur, 160 km from Nandyal, 181 km from Kurnool, 229 km from Hyderabad, 263 km from Vijayawada and 527 km from Bangalore – it looks close but is difficult to access. Drive time from Bangalore is 14 hrs, Going Via Hyderabad – Overnight Train then a 6 hr drive is equally challenging. There are trains from Bangalore to Markapur (Closest station to Srisailam)  but the timing is not convenient and Markapur doesn’t have good accommodation. The train journey is almost 12 hrs. After much deliberation we decided to take a train to Kurnool. 12786 Kachegowda Express departs SBC at 620 PM and reaches Kurnool at 1 AM. We stayed at Triguna Clarks – a 1 Km auto ride from Kurnool station, next morning after breakfast we were ready to leave for Srisailam by car.

From Kurnool you have two routes. The highway is longer by 100 Km – suggest you take the shorter route thru the forest – more scenic, roads are in good condition. There is a significant ghat section but the hairpin bends are not challenging. The distance of 180 Km can be covered in 4 1/2 hrs. There are no major restaurants / stop by on either of the routes so finding ladies restroom will be challenge. We stopped at a place called Andhra Ruchi at Dornala for lunch – it was a spicy veg buffet and the rest rooms were decent.

Stay at Srisailam 

Best place to stay is the APTDC hotel Haritha – which is right next to the temple – 5 min walk. Rooms are AC – clean and breakfast is part of the package. You need to book rooms in advance online through the APTDC portal.

Book Hotel at Srisailam – Haritha 

The best time to visit Srisailam is from September to March while the peak season is September to December & February to May. Usually it takes 1-2 days to visit major places in Srisailam.

Visiting the temple 

Temple Timings: 5 AM to 3:30 PM & 6 PM to 10 PM

The belief is you start your trip with a visit to the Sakshi Ganapathi temple. That’s how the Gods acknowledge your visit to Srisailam and credit your share of blessings. Its a small temple easily accessible with no major crowd. Close to this is the Hatakeshwara temple which also has some legends associated with it . We covered both these temple before 4.30 PM.

Srisailam is probably the first Shiva temple which felt like a Vishnu temple – with separate Q’s for 150 / 350 / 500 Rs tickets. We could not spot a free Darshan Q – even though the temple looked empty. The Tirupathi effect is clearly visible. When we reached the temple at 3.30 PM we were told that the ticket counter opens only at 5 PM. The counters finally opened at 5.15 PM and we got our 500 Rs ticket – only to be told that this ticket entry is at 9 PM and entitles you to a special Darshan where you can touch the Shiva Linga and offer your prayers. (For the 9 PM visit you need to wear Dhoti/Saree). We finally got a Rs 150 ticket and walked in. It was June 2nd – fortunately it had rained heavily a few hrs back and the weather was cool and pleasant. We reached the Sanctum Sanctorum in less than 15 minutes and had an excellent Darshan.

The temple courtyard is beautiful, well maintained with many small shrines and a Goshala. But the main attraction where you must spend time is the Triphala Vriksha.

Triphala Vriksha 

Triphala Tree is the Sthala Vriksha – the main tree of this temple. It is not a single tree, there are three trees all wound around each other to form one tree, hence it is called Triphala. This is the co-existence of three sacred trees belonging to Ficus species. They are Ashwatha (Raavi), Oudumbara(Medi) and Plaksha (Juvvi).   It is believed that Lord  Dattatreya  performed penance under this tree. Devotees chant Shri Gurucharitra parayana as “EKAAHA” (completion of the book in one day from morning to evening) under this tree to fulfill their wishes. It is believed that the great Rishi Agastya resides in hidden form below this tree

The courtyard is so beautiful and serene you dont feel like leaving the place. After a relaxed and spiritually charged 1 hr we walked up a few steps to reach the shrine of Devi Bhramaramba. A wonderful darshan and we were able to spend some time in the vicinity of the sanctum.

Dinner was in a small tent like shack on the way back to the hotel where you get fresh Idli’s and Dosas. The main Srisailam town is a few kms away – and that is where you have the cluster of hotels and eating joints.

A Few More points 

Adi Shankara is said to have written the Sivananda Lahari, a composition of hymns in praise of Lord Shiva at Srisailam. For this you need to visit Phaladhara – Panchadhara, the location of the twin waterfalls, where Adi Sankara is believed to have meditated during his stay in Srisailam. To reach the spot, one has to climb down at least 200 steps, the climb down and up is not very tough but beware of monkeys.

Shikaram is the highest point of Srisailam range from where you can get a view of the temple and the Nallamala Hills. If you ever manage to view the Shikaram of the temple from the distance, Moksham will be yours, so goes the belief ! This is also the place from where you can get a jeep drive to the Ishta Kameshwari shrine that is located deep inside the forest. Tickets are issued at 7 AM and people Q up from 6 AM.

The great Lingayat saint Akka Mahadevi mediated at Srisailam. She was madly in divine love with Mallikarjuna. A visit to the Akka Mahadevi caves is a must. It’s a 1/2 day journey – a ropeway to Patal Ganga and then a boat ride to the Cave and a small trek takes you to the cave.

The cave is full of bats and pitch dark. Its a 100 m walk and the last 30 feet you need to sit and move. Limited tickets are issued every day – you need to buy the ropeway ticket at 7 AM and then list your name for the boat ride to the caves. Once you reach Patal Ganga the boat ticket counter issues you the ticket. Boat ride starts at 9.30 AM and is about 1 hr each way. You will be back by 1.30 – 2 for lunch at Srisailam.

After the visit to Akka Mahadevi caves we were back in Srisailam by 2 PM. A quick lunch and then we headed back to Srisailam with an intent to cover the Jogulamba Devi temple near Kurnool. This is also a Shakti Peeth. However the evening traffic was dense around Kurnool and our driver messed up the route. So this we have to leave for a later date. Our train 12785 from Kurnool was at 10.30 PM and we were back in Bangalore at 6.25 AM.

  • Trip Summary  : 1 Night by Train, 1 night at Kurnool, 1 night at Srisailam
  • Kurnool Cab Contact – + 91 91779 84272 (Ask for a driver who knows a little Hindi – our driver knew only Telugu)

Additional Information 

List of Jyotirlingas

  • Somnath – Gir Somnath In Gujarat
  • Nageshwar – Daarukavanam In Gujarat
  • Bhimashankar – Pune In Maharashtra
  • Trimbakeshwar – Nashik In Maharashtra
  • Grishneshwar – Aurangabad In Maharashtra
  • Vaidyanath – Deoghar In Jharkhand
  • Mahakaleshwar – Ujjain In Madhya Pradesh
  • Omkareshwar – Khandwa In Madhya Pradesh
  • Kashi Vishwanath – Varanasi In Uttar Pradesh
  • Kedarnath – Kedarnath In Uttarakhand
  • Rameshwaram – Rameswaram Island In Tamil Nadu
  • Mallikarjuna – Srisailam In Andhra Pradesh

SRISAILAM – Lord Sri Bhramarambha Mallikharjuna Swami Temple

Ishtakameshwari 

https://highwayonlyway.com/2015/01/08/on-adi-sankaras-trail-i-srisailam-where-sivanandalahari-overflowed/

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Somnath & Dwarka in 48 Hrs

21 Apr

Long before Amitabh Bachchan invited people to “Kuch din toh guzaro Gujarat mein” I have had a keen desire to visit Somnath. The 1st of the 12 great Jyotirlinga’s which is the symbol of eternal indestructible Shiva.

My perception was this remote corner of W India was a faraway land and getting there would be challenging. I was proved wrong. You can reach Somnath from Bangalore faster than driving to Wayanad / Kodaikanal from Bangalore.

This Blog will cover all the information you need to make this trip

  • How to reach Somnath / Dwarka in the shortest possible manner
  • Where to Stay & Local cab agency numbers
  • Planning your day and visiting the key sights

How to reach Somnath / Dwarka in the shortest possible manner

  • Rajkot is your entry point. 6E 6507 is a direct flight from Bangalore – Rajkot. Dep 11.35 AM, Arr 1.50 PM. (Jamnagar airport is closer but there are limited flights Via Mumbai and fares are expensive)
  • Rajkot – Somnath – Dwarka is almost an equilateral triangle. Rajkot – Somnath is 197 Km takes 3 ½ – 4 Hrs and Rajkot to Dwarka is 250 Km ~ 41/2 – 5 Hrs (Road is under construction in some parts).
  • If your flight lands on time you can be in Somnath before 6 PM.
  • If you are coming Via Ahmedabad, you can take the night train 22957 Ahd – Veeraval Express that departs Ahd at 10.10PM and reaches Veraval at 6AM. Veraval is 5 Km from Somnath. There are many trains from Ahd – Somnath / Veraval both at day & night.
  • Somnath to Dwarka is an excellent road of 250 Km that can be easily covered in 4 hrs including a breakfast stop enroute.
  • Rajkot – Bangalore 6E 6508 leaves Rajkot at 14.20 and lands at Bangalore at 16.35.

Where to stay and how to travel locally

In Somnath stay at the Sarovar Portico. Lovely new hotel with spacious rooms, nice restaurant. Located close to the Somnath temple – 10 min drive. Sarovar Portico, Bypass Road, Prabhas Patan, Dist Gir, Somnath – 362268

Dwarka, you have many options –Hawthorne Suites & Lemon Tree are a little far from the main temple. Booking.com can help you with many options that are 1 Km from the main temple. Also check out a hotel that is centrally located and opening soon after renovation called Guruprerna. We had dinner at their restaurant Sharanam, and it was very good.

Hotel Guruprerna, Opp Bhadrakali Temple. Dwarka – 9427207612 / 8980724314

Cab pick-up at Rajkot airport or Somnath station

  • Hiren Sindhav – 87809 64411 (Rajkot Based)
  • Soyab – 8160554705 / 97148 71691 (Somnath Based)

Planning your day and visiting the key sights

SOMNATH

  • If you are driving from Rajkot to Somnath you may want to include Junagadh & Gir in your plan – it is on the way.
  • Our train from Ahd reached Veraval at 6 AM and we were in our room by 6.30 AM. Veraval is India’s largest Seafood processing & export centre. So be ready for a strong smell of fish as you drive to your hotel.
  • All the sights in Somnath can be easily covered in 1 day. We started our day at 8 AM and by 12.30 had covered all that was there to see

Main Somnath temple: 45 Min – 2 Hrs

  • By the seashore this beautiful temple has a history of over 2000 years. Invaders and barbarian tyrants demolished and looted the temple again and again – but every time Somnath resurrected.
  • The origin of this Jyotirlinga is associated with the Moon God hence the name Somnath. It’s considered the 1st amongst the 12 Jyotirlingas. Auspicious to visit on Monday and a Full Moon night.
  • It’s not a large temple and is a new construction. Current temple is well maintained and can easily be covered in less than 30 minutes. There was no Q on the day we visited.
  • The temple is open all day long from 6 AM – 9.30 PM. Aarti is at 7 AM, 12 Noon and 7 PM. The temple is lit up at 7 PM – that’s a beautiful sight. Evening 8 – 9 PM there is a paid light & sound show
  • Only wallets are allowed inside – you need to deposit your Phone and Handbags in two different lockers
  • There is no entry fee / no special ticket for tatkal Q etc.
  • We visited the temple at 8.30 AM and then again at 6 PM

Triveni Sangam: 10 Min

  • Walking distance from the Somnath temple
  • The significance of the Triveni Sangam dates back to thousands of years ago when the rivers Hiran, Kapila and the Saraswati met here. Considered a place to do prayers for your ancestors. A dip here can get you Moksha.
  • Quick glance – the place was not very clean

Geeta Mandir : 45 Min – 1 Hr

  • Nice energised and tranquil complex on the banks of the Hiren river and houses a few temples. Located 2 Km from the Somnath temple.
  • The Gita Temple is located near the Golokdham region of Lord Krishna of Prabhas Tirtha. The priest claims that Lord Krishna was brought here by the Pandavas after he was shot by an arrow at Bhalka Tirth
  • The marble columns on the pillars of the Geeta temple are inscribed with 18 chapters of the Gita. The architecture is made in marble stone.
  • The current structure of Gita Mandir was built in the year of 1970 by Birla Group
  • This is a beautiful place so plan to spend some time here. It is normally crowded, we were lucky as it was almost empty.

Bhalka Tirth: 15 – 30 Min

  • This is the place where Lord Krishna was shot by a hunter named Jara.
  • Bhalka Teerth houses a beautiful Krishna temple in a pose with his feet outstretched.

Few other places one can visit include the Pathan Museum, Pandav Gufa, and an ancient  dilapidated Sun Temple.

We were back in the hotel by 12.30 for Lunch and after a well needed nap, we set off again at 4.30 PM

Parasuram Mandir: 15 – 30 Min

  • The temple looks like a new one but behind the main temple is a sunken old temple which is the original Parasuram temple.
  • The ambience is very calm and meditative here.

Old Somnath Temple built by Rani Ahilyabhai: 15 – 30 Min  

  • Situated opposite to the famous Somnath Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, Ahilyabai Temple was built by Maratha queen Ahilyabai Holkar in 17th century
  • It is said that Ahilyabai Holkar was deeply moved by the ravaged state of the temple and took on herself the task of reconstructing it. It is also said that the location of the Swayambhu Linga came in Ahilyabai’s dreams, post which she started the construction immediately. Many Hindus believe that this temple contains the original Jyotirlinga which was buried assuming that the original temple would be raided.

Main Somnath Temple for eve 7 PM Arti: 2 Hrs  

  • We ended our trip at Somnath by spending two hrs at the main temple. The Arti at 7 PM is very energising and you can keep walking in and out – so I had multiple darshans of the Lord.
  • The temple is lit at 7 PM and the grass gardens are lovely. The sea breeze is pleasant and it was almost a full moon night.
  • There is a sound and light show from 8 – 9 for which you need to buy tickets. So the temple lights are switched off at 8 PM.
  • There are Prasad counters in the garden area from where you can buy dry prasad packets
  • We were back in our hotel by 8.30 for dinner.

DWARKA

We left Somnath at 5 AM. The road to Dwarka is an excellent highway and you can zip at 120+ kms. At around 7.30 we stopped for breakfast at a place called Hotel Krishna Park and were served fresh Poha / Puri Sabji.

Nageshwar Jyotirlinga: 30 Min

  • We reached Nageshwar Jyotirlinga at 9.15 AM. There is some confusion between Jageshwar (Kumaon) and Nageshwar being a Jyotirlinga. Most online resources seem to consider Nageshwar to be in the list of 12 Jyotirlingas. But when I visited Jageshwar in 2016 the priests claimed that it was one of the 12 Jyotirlinga’s
  • The temple structure looks modern. There is a massive Shiva Statue in front of the temple. It’s not crowded and by paying 200 Rs we were allowed to enter the sanctum sanctorum and offer Arti to the Lord. This was indeed very satisfying.
  • A minute’s drive from here is Gopi Talab. According to locals, after leaving Mathura, Lord Krishna never went back. The Gopi’s of Mathura came to Dwarka to meet Krishna. After several Ras Leela’s with Lord Krishna, they offered their lives to the land. Hence the name of the lake is “Gopi Talab”.  

Beyt Dwarka: 2 Hrs

  • A short drive from Nageshwar is Beyt Dwarka. It’s a 35 Sq Km Island. Most of Dwarka from Krishna’s era is submerged – this is said to be one of the few parts that survived.
  • You need to take a 15 min ferry to reach the island. Boats are overloaded and there are no life jackets – tickets cost Rs 20/- . Private Boats are available for Rs 4000/-. A sea bridge connecting the island with the mainland is under construction.
  • Take a Guide – it helps. Our guide was Harshad – 98986 66486. He did a good job showing us the place.
  • The main temple was destroyed during the Kutch earthquake and most of what you see was rebuilt (It still looks ancient and dilapidated)
  • The main Idol of the Lord – Dwarkadhish at Beyt Dwarka disappeared for thousands of years. This was hand made by Rukmani. Afterwards it was found by Mahaprabhu Shri Vallabhacharyaji and installed. The Idol has mesmerizing power and locks you. You will not find a photo of this idol anywhere. We were lucky to get it from the guide who knew the priest
  • The guide made us happy by saying that we were special, this was lord Krishna’s house and Sudama had come here. Dwarka was his office. Most people come here after visiting Dwarka.
  • 70% of the inhabitants of the island are Muslims. Its crowded and not well maintained
  • Beyt Dwarka also has some nice beaches. The best is Dunny Point which is surrounded by sea in 3 sides.
  • Some people claim that this is a site for scuba diving, but we could not find any diving clubs.
  • On the way back the Private Boats take you back for Rs 100/-. That avoids the crowds.
  • The last boat back to the mainland is at 5.30 PM. Temple is closed in the afternoon from 1 – 5. During the the day the is closed 11 times for short durations for Naivedyam. So, plan your trip accordingly

Rukmani Temple : 15 Min

  • You will cross this temple on the way to Dwarka. While Mathura & Brindavan is all about Radha – Dwarka is all about Rukmani – the 1st queen of Krishna. Cursed by sage Durvasa Rukmani was separated from Lord Krishna for 12 years.
  • Rukmani hence has a separate temple to herself on the outskirts of Dwarka. The temple has a tall shikara and intricate carvings which are eroded because of proximity to the sea. This temple probably belongs to the 12th century, contemporary of the main Dwarkadish temple in Dwarka.
  • When you visit the temple, the priest will wait for a batch of people and then tell you the story. It is a small temple, but it has a personality of its own.

By now it was 1.30 and on the way to our room we stopped by at the New Srinath dining hall for lunch. It was crowded, the place was not clean, and the food was very oily. You can skip this place. Suggest you go to Sharanam restaurant which is diagonally opposite.

Bhadkeshwar Mahadev temple: 15 – 30 Min

Evening 4.30 we headed to this temple which is by the sea. This is a small ancient temple where the Lingam is almost 5000 years old. It is believed that this temple was constructed by Shankaracharya. The path leading to the main shrine gets submerged during high tide in the rainy season.

Main Dwarkadish Temple: 1 Hr.

  • Dwarka is a small town, and you can reach the Dwarkadish temple easily from anywhere. A short Auto ride costing 30 – 40 Rs or walk for 10 – 15 min. The temple is located on the Sangam of the Gomti river with the Arabian sea. Temple timings are 6.30 AM – 1 PM and 5 to 9.30 PM
  • At the main temple you need to deposit your Phone and bags – only wallets are allowed inside. No entry fee / no special ticket etc.
  • Tushar Bhat a Priest of the temple was our guide, and he did a good job Most importantly he helped us to avoid the Q and find a nice peaceful corner from where we could view the main sanctum peacefully and uninterrupted. He can be contacted at +91 98257 14232.
  • The original temple was built by Lord Krishna’s grandson Vajranambha and the architect was Vishwakarma. The main shrine of the five-storied building, supported by 72 pillars, is known as Jagat Mandir. Archaeological findings suggest it to be 2,000 – 2,200 years old.
  • The Dwarka Mutt is one of the four mutts established by Sri Adi Shankaracharya within this temple.
  • It is sacred to take a dip at the Gomati Ghat opposite to the Dwarkadhish Temple. The water is sparkling clean.
  • The Dhwaja or the Mast Flag atop the main Temple is unique and sacred. The Flag is made of 52 yards of cloth. 52 small flags are woven individually in each yard of cloth. The flag is changed 5 times a day
  • Aarti Timings 
    • Mangala Aarti – 6.30 – 7 am,
    • Shringar aarti – 10.30 – 10.45 am & 11.30 am,
    • Sandhya Aarti – 7.30 – 7.45 pm and
    • Shayan Aarti at 8.30 – 8.35 pm

Sudama Bridge: 30 Min

A minutes’ walk from the main temple is the Sudama bridge on the Gomti river. It gives a nice view of the temple and the Ghats. It’s a nice photo op place in the evening. There are benches along the river where you can sit and soak in the beauty and energy of the place.

It was 7.30 PM by the time we finished our walk along Sudama bridge and headed back for a light meal at Sharanam and then back to our room. It was a long and satisfying day.  

Heading back to Rajkot & Bangalore

  • The drive from Dwarka to Rajkot is a bit patchy at places because of construction. We left at 6.30 AM and reached Rajkot by 11 AM. This route you cross the Reliance Jamnagar refinery complex. The earliest breakfast joints you get are near Jamnagar so it’s almost 9.30 before you can have breakfast. Jamnagar also has a nice Marine Life Park.
  • Rajkot is a lovely city famous for its tea shops. Also visit the famous Peda shop Jay Siyaram. If you skip breakfast and want an early lunch the best Thali place in Rajkot is Grand Thakkar (Opens at 11.30 AM)
  • Flight 6E 6508 departs Rajkot at 14.20 and lands in Bangalore by 16.15

By the grace of God and our Master the trip went off very well. Everything happened with meticulous perfection. The weather was perfect, the drivers were excellent and the perfect guides miraculously appeared in front of us. There was hardly any crowd and we had excellent Darshan at all the places.

 

 

 

 

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A Comprehensive Ladakh Travel Guide

28 Sep

For long I have had the perception that Ladakh was a land far far away with hostile environment and rough weather – a Holiday destination only for the tough & rugged. After this trip, I am glad I was proved wrong.

This BLOG is based on my 12 day solo trip to Ladakh in Sep 2021. It has all that you need to plan your trip. I need to thank Akarsh Pall of I Am Adventure (98118 29449) who helped me plan this trip. He is passionate, committed  and has extensive knowledge of Ladakh – without his help I would not have had a wonderful immersive experience to learn so much about Ladakh.

Why Ladakh – A Few Compelling reasons

  • EasyAccess – Fly into Leh or drive from Srinagar (You can also drive from Manali)
  • Language, No problem – everyone knows Hindi / English
  • Food, No problem – even in the remotest of places you will get piping hot Rice / Dal / Roti / Sabji and even Curd. Add to this Pizza / Pasta / local delicacies and of course the roadside Maggi.
  • Excellent roads – In 12 Days I would have travelled over 1250Km , over 90% of the roads were in excellent condition thanks to the BRO
  • Very Affordable – Excellent homestay at 1000 Rs / day. You can choose your accommodation from basis backpacker dorms & tents to Luxury 5 star hotels
  • Very Safe – In the middle of a remote road on our way from Dah to Leh a young muslim girl in hijab stopped us for a lift. In which part of India would a girl dare to take a lift from an unknown vehicle.
  • Lovely people – The Ladakhis are very nice people. They are warm and helpful. Never agitated always equanimous, following the middle path

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And most importantly, A Lot to experience – Ladakh has craggy snow capped mountains, glaciers, scenic river valleys, lakes, treks, orchards, meadows, deserts…. a lot of sightseeing a lot of adventure. The only thing it doesn’t have is dense forests

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Given the volumnous information I want to share I will structure this BLOG under 3 Sections

  • An Overview of Ladakh
  • How to manage Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
  • Planning your Trip – Travel TIPS

An Overview of Ladakh 

  • The word LA in Ladakhi means PASS – so Ladakh is the land of high mountain Passes. Khardung La, Fotu La, Chang La, Taglang La, Baralacha la …. etc. This is rugged mountain land, a cold desert where the altitude varies from 3000 – 5900 Metres. This is where the Great Himalayas originates. It is also the place of origin of the Karakoram and the Zanskar range of mountains.
  • Ladakh is huge – 59,146 Sq Km. That is bigger than Punjab & Harayana. The UT has two Districts – Leh & Kargil. Total population is less than 3 Lacs. Leh is predominantly Buddhist and Kargil is Shia Muslim. Leh is the 2nd largest district of India (Kutch is the largest & Jaisalmer the 3rd)
  • It is one of the coldest and most sparsely inhabited regions of the world. Yet it has a high density of armed forces. We have hostile neighbours and a long stretch of LOC with China and POK. At any point in time there are over 50,000 battle ready armed forces in Ladakh. Siachen & Galwan the hotspots of recent times are in Ladakh.
  • Ladakh was an independent country till 1834. It was part of the silk route and there is a lot of mingling of cultures. A strong Tibetian influence – The Ladakhi language is a modified Tibetan form and both share the same script. It also has influence from Iran ( Indo Iranian – Dard), Baltistan and people from Central Asia including Uighur’s. Interesting to note that the Balti’s a sect of Muslims in Gilgit – Baltistan follow the Persian Navroz New Year. The great general Zorawar integrated Ladakh with the kingdom of Jammu.
  • Its not just the land of lofty mountains but also the land of many rivers. The mighty Indus (Still called Sindhu in Ladakh) originates near Kailash and flows thru Ladakh before entering Pakistan at Batalik. There are many more rivers cutting deep gorges and creating fertile valleys – Zanskar, Shyok, Suru, Drass, Nubra, Shingo are some of the larger rivers – most of which are tributaries to the Indus
  • Ladakh is also the land of pristine high altitude lakes – Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, Tso Kar etc. You may have guessed that the word Tso means lake in Ladakhi

 

Given the size of Ladakh how much time will it take to cover everything

If you want to do justice and see all that Ladakh has to offer you must plan a 4 – 6 weeks trip. Or multiple trips of 2 weeks. Most people try to cover the key sights of Leh / Nubra / Pangong in 5 – 6 days. But that is just touching the tip of the iceberg. Dont do that – coming to a far away land spend time with the locals, immerse yourself with the culture and go back with knowledge and deep experiences of a lifetime.

This Link has a detailed explanation of all the regions of Ladakh and what they have to offer. Read at leisure. It will help you plan your trip. https://travelthehimalayas.com/kikis-guide-to-ladakh. 

How to Manage AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) 

This is the first question that people travelling to Ladakh have. The city of LEH is at 11,500 Feet, Khardungla Pass is ~ 18,000 feet. During your trip you will be travelling between 9500 – 18000 feet. That is serious High Altitude and you need to plan to avoid AMS. I had learnt my lesson during my travel to Kailash Mansarovar and took all the necessary precautions this time – Within 24 hrs of landing I was fine and Ladakh felt like being in Bangalore.

  • Dont Take Diamox – Let the body adjust naturally. This was the best advise that Akarsh gave me. I was inclined to take Diamox – but he insisted against it.
  • If your travel plan can be from Srinagar that is ideal. Drive from Srinagar to Leh on NHI and on the way cover Sonmarg / Drass / Suru Valley / Dah – Hanu and then reach LEH. This is the best way to acclimatise as you ascend slowly and your body adjusts.  (Srinagar – Sonmarg : 84 Km, Sonmarg – Drass : 60 Km Enroute you cross the Zojila Pass 3530 M, Drass – Kargil : 55 Km , Kargil – Leh : 230 Km)
  • If you are flying into Leh then take the first 36 Hrs very easy. Do Nothing. Eat light. Drink a lot of stream water (Not Bisleri). Avoid Oily food / Rajma / Eggs – stick to Dal Chawal / Curd / Roti Sabji
  • Do a lot of deep breathing – better to start doing this months before your trip to Ladakh
  • Dont exercise or walk briskly – don’t do Yoga / skipping … any strenuous activity.
  • Your first getaway from Leh should be to a place of lower altitude. So head to Kargil / Drass / Suru Valley / Dah – Hanu etc. These are all places at 9000 – 10000 feet. Dont try going to Pangong ( 14,500 feet) or Tso Moriri (15,000 feet) on Day 2 of your trip – that is a recipe of disaster. Getting to Nubra Valley also means crossing Khardungla which is at 17900 feet.

If you are not Obese, your fitness levels are decent and you follow the above guidance I can assure you that your chances of getting impacted by AMS are rare

Planning your Trip 

What is the best time to travel to Ladakh ?

April 15 – May 15th and Sep 10th – Sep 30th is ideal. From Oct – March Ladakh is very cold and tourists may find many attractions closed. Roads / High altitude passes may also be closed. In Sep the crowds start diminishing and by Sep end you may get to see snow in the high passes. The fruit season may just be getting over and if you are lucky you may spot Apples in the orchards but the Apricot season may be over. Mid April is spring when the flowers in the valleys bloom. It will still be cold and there will be a lot of snow but Ladakh will be fresh, welcoming the seasons first tourists .

June – July – Aug is peak season and you may be disappointed with crowds everywhere. Ladakh is a place you want to enjoy in solitude. The tourist traffic in Ladakh is exploding – 2021 saw well over 300K tourists an all time high  – This inspite of COVID and no foreigners. The Govt is gearing up for 1 M tourists in the next 3 – 4 years. So dont delay your trip – visit Ladakh before it becomes Simla or Nainital.

How many days trip should I plan 

You first need to decide how many days you have at hand. You can work with your travel planner to maximise based on this. Here are some basic guidelines that may help you

  • I used a Hub & Spoke model.  Made LEH my Hub and retained a lovely homestay there for the entire duration of my trip. Explored the region by making 1 – 2 day trips
  • Did not do any long tiring day trips and was not on the road for more than 6 hrs any day
  • This ensures that you are not tired and you can get your laundry done at the homestay
  • Dont rush – enjoy the beauty of the place, talk to the locals , stay at homestays and villages, eat local food and get a cultural immersion.

Approximate Indication of time & distance from LEH 

Section – 1 : Kargil / Drass / Suru Valley / Dah – Hanu (Budget 2 – 3 days) 

  • Leh – Kargil : 216 Km  – 4 1/2 Hrs  – NH 1 Excellent road, Kargil – Drass : 60 Km  – 1 Hr – NH 1
  • On the way to Kargil stop by at the Lamayuru monastery with its moon like rock formations. You can Explore the Kargil War memorial at Drass, There are Apple & Apricot orchards on the way to Drass at Karkichoo valley. Spend the night at Drass and visit the Tiger hill. Mushko Valley & Minamarg are the hubs for trekking to Gurez & Amarnath

  • Kargil is the District HQ – nothing much to see there, but from Kargil you can explore Suru valley – best time to do that is in April – May when the flowers are in full bloom
  • As you finish this circuit and head back to Leh take a different more scenic route along the Indus via the Aryan Villages of Dah – Hanu. You can stay in a small hotel by the Indus River called the Aryan Residency or live in a Camp by the river. There are 3 villages here which claim to be descendants of Alexanders soldiers. They do dress up and put up a show if you are in a group (Not FREE)

If you leave Kargil by 9 AM  you will reach the Aryan Village by lunch time – that gives you 1/2 a day to explore the place, sit by the raging Indus River and enjoy the peace and solitude. The next day after breakfast if you leave by 9 AM you can reach Leh by 3 PM  – with a stopover at Alchi monastery and lunch at a beautiful restaurant called Alchi village.

In a landscape that is vastly craggy brown mountain this sector is the green patch. Depending on time available one can also cover Zanskar from Kargil. Remember this is the place of the world famous Chadar trek on the frozen Zanskar river.

Section – 2 : Turtuk/ Nubra / Pangong Tso plan for 3 nights 

After you completed the 1st Phase of your travels take a 1 day break at Leh and enjoy the local sights and restaurants, then head to Turtuk.

To reach Turtuk you need to cross the famous Khardungla Pass. When we were kids that was the answer to a quiz question – Khardungla pass was the worlds highest motorable pass. It no longer is – but at 17982 feet it is impressive.

Khardungla pass is 39 Km from LEH. Start early to avoid the army convoys. You want to reach early and cross the pass early – don’t spend more than 15 Min at Khardungla. We left LEH at 7.15 AM and were at Khardungla by 8.15 AM It was empty. We were lucky to see snow in mid Sep – it normally starts snowing in early Oct and has over 6 feet of Snow from Nov to March.

As you descend from Khardungla you see many wild Yaks grazing and after a few hours reach a white sand desert called the Nubra Valley. On our onward journey we did not stop at Nubra and headed straight to Turtuk. On the way you see many army camps – this is the way to Siachen & Galwan. We reached Turtuk at 2 in the afternoon. This was the longest travel day for us

Turtuk is a Balti village. Most of Gilgit Baltistan is in POK. Turtuk and the adjoining villages were annexed from POK by the Indian army in 1971. Many claim that Turtuk is the Northern most Indian village – but there is Takshin and Thang beyond Turtuk. The last inhabited village is Thang from where you can see the Line of Control. I spent the night at Turtuk and enjoyed local Balti cuisine. The village is clean and is full of home-stays, restaurants and small museums. Its a pretty green village with streams and flowers and orchards. The Shyok river flows by from here to Pakistan.

At Thang do try and meet Gubba Ali. He has an emotional story to tell of 1971 when as a 5 year old he was separated from his parents who were in the next village in POK. The army did not proceed further as cease fire had been declared and the Pakistanis did not allow his parents to come back.

You need a local to take you for a morning walk down some pretty streams and trek up to a monastery for some fresh air and lovely views. Turtuk is a lovely place – dont do a rushed day trip from Nubra, spend a night here. 

The next morning we left Turtuk after breakfast and a morning trek at 10.30 AM and reached our resort at Nubra by 2 PM. On the way we stopped by to meet the rare double humped Bactrian camels from Central Asia. The camels look healthy, strong and well fed.

Please note they head home for lunch at 1 and are back only by 4 PM – so time your travel accordingly. Along Nubra Valley there are many places where you can also indulge in ATV rides.

At Nubra we stayed at a nice resort owned by the Ex Mla of Ladakh. Osay Khar is a beautiful resort in the lap of nature with 21 modern cottages, an organic garden and a sprawling Apple orchard. They also rear their own cows. The owner Tsetan Namgyal is a wonderful man and his family offers you great hospitality. Incidentally Tsetan is royalty – his sister is married to the King of Ladakh. I am thankful to Tsetan for spending so much time and showing us the neighbourhood.

The drive from Nubra to Pangong Lake is about 6 hrs. There are sections where the road is not in great shape. Leh – Pangong – Turtuk is a bit like a triangle so it saves time to cover Pangong Lake from Nubra rather than going back to Leh.

Pangong Lake is at 14,500 feet. Its a the worlds highest saline lake. Its also 135 Km long and over 100 feet deep – 1/3rd in India rest in China Occupied territory.  The lake is serene and eerie. Inspite of being saline it freezes in winter. It is spotlessly clean and the water is sparkling. There is no permanent accommodation here. There are tented camps – some are canvas tents and some are log house rooms. Tents are decent – Western bathroom with running water. Electricity from a generator is provided from 6 – 10 PM and hot water at 8 AM for an hr.

Most people tend to do a day trip to Pangong Lake from LEH. I would advise against this. 10 hrs of driving can be very tiring. The Lake is best enjoyed late evening and early morning. I was lucky to be here on a full moon night. Try and time your travel to a New Moon or Full Moon. Yes it is freezing cold in the tent and with 3 layers of sweaters, a thermal and 3 blankets I was shivering. The camps shut down in October as it becomes very cold.

Service is good and hot fresh food – Roti / Rice / dal / Soup / Kheer is provided. Tea / Coffee / Maggi / Snacks is also provided.

The next day we left Pangong at 8 AM after a hot breakfast and headed back to Leh Via Changla Pass – another high altitude Pass. the journey was smooth and we reached LEH at 12.45 right in time for lunch at the Gyalson Homestay – the lovely place which was my HQ.

All about LEH 

LEH was my hub. The Kushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport  is the 23rd highest commercial airport in the world at 10,682 feet. Its a small airport that is undergoing expansion. The flight to Leh from Delhi is scenic – remember on the Delhi – Leh route choose seat F (Window) and on the Leh – Delhi sector choose seat A. This will ensure you get the best views.

I stayed at the Gyalson Guest-house – a very comfortable and homely place. It is the home of a lovely Ladakhi family. Rooms are clean, hot water is available 24 by 7 and you get freshly cooked meals – with organic vegetables from the kitchen garden. It is also very affordable. (Contact Paale – 80823 46464). A big thanks to Megha & Yashwant for guiding me to Gyalson and also helping me plan the trip.

Located on Changspa Road the main hub of Leh its a short 10 min walk from the Leh Market. The Shanti Stupa is also a 10 min walk and can be seen from the balcony of the room.

Leh is a small town – but unlike other hill stations the roads are flat. There is no public transport – so your rented vehicle is your mode of transport. There is a wide variety of restaurants and shops in leh and you can get almost everything you get in a big city. Idli / Dosa / Pizza / Pasta / Local Cuisines …. you can feast at the local restaurants and cafes. many are vibrant with live music. Here is a list you may find handy of the 15 Best restaurants in Ladakh.  15 Best Restaurants & cafes in Ladakh. Inspite of its remote locations costs are very affordable.

The key sights of Leh can be covered easily in 2 days. Shanti Stupa looks beautiful when lit at night. the Pathar Sahib Gurudwara has a lot of history associated with it and the Hall of Fame is a wonderful war museum and memorial. Dont miss the Light & Sound show at Zorawar Fort and Hall of Fame. Magnetic Hill, Leh Palace, Stok Palace, Central Museum, Sangam of Indus & Zanskar, Ghats of the Sindhu river, a few monasteries – that’s about all that there is to see in Leh

So what did I miss out this trip?

Tso Moriri is another beautiful lake. Less frequented by Indians. Thats another 1 night trip from Leh. Further ahead of Two Moriri is the village of Hanley which is home to a rare observatory that houses one of the worlds highest telescopes. Star gazing from here is supposedly out of the world. But this is a long long way away. Suru Valley is a must visit in Spring and one should plan a trip to Zanskar.

So I guess another 2 weeks are needed to cover Ladakh.

A Few More Points to help in your travel

  • The 3 most important accessories for this trip are Sunscreen lotion SPF 50, a Nice big floppy hat and sun glasses. At this altitude days can be very hot and the sun rays can be scorching.
  • Carry a lot of water – a good sipper with inbuilt filter is good to have – as you drive you can fill your bottle from the fresh streams.
  • Airtel Post paid connections work. The network is decent in most places. BSNL has the best coverage. In Pangong only BSNL works.
  • Innova’s and Mahindra XUV’s are the only vehicles you will find on the road. Dont overload your car with 6 – 7 passengers. Try to be max 3 – 4 / vehicle. There are no mechanics / repair shops Enroute so ensure that you have a good Vehicle
  • Most tourists are youngsters who rent a bike from LEH. A lot of young couples who come in groups. A lot of women groups. I spotted very few families ( maybe it was Sep and school time) – and some teenagers but no one below the age of 12 or above the age of 60.
  • Carry your medicines – after LEH you will not find any chemists / big shops
  • Ladakh is the biggest producer of Apricots – so if you want to drink fresh fruit of the land drink Apricot juice.
  • You will not find Bars / Pubs in Leh or in other locations. Liquor may be available on request. Best avoided. At Pangong Lake I was sitting with a bunch of youngsters from Jaipur who were enjoying a few drinks and the camp incharge advised them to stop. A few days back two youngsters in their 30’s had suffered cardiac arrest after drinking.
  • If you kids want luxury stay – yes there are some high end hotels , you may want to indulge in some of them during your travel. Luxury Hotels in Ladakh 
  • Credit card / Google Pay works in Ladakh – lots of ATM’s. But carry cash – outside of LEH cash is preferred. Your cash usage is limited if your travel planner has booked all your rooms. On a 12 day trip I did not need more than 10K in cash.
  • There are many monasteries – they are huge. I visited two of them Lamayuru & Aichi. They all feel the same. I could not sense the energy and vibes in the monastery that one feels in the ancient Chola temples.
  • The Inner Line permits that were needed till recently have been eliminated. Indians can travel to almost all of Ladakh without permits.
  • And last but not the least – Is Ladakh a destination for honeymooners ? No it isn’t

And one more thing. Ladakh is home to many regiments & battalions. Many a Braveheart has given up his life in the struggle to protect the motherland. Do visit the memorials and museums of the brave soldiers and understand the challenges that they face in the peak of winter when the temperature easily drops to (-) 20 degrees or lower.

 

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