Archive | February, 2021

Explore Dandeli from the friendly Amara homestay

10 Feb

Most people associate Dandeli with white water rafting. Yes – its true that in S India this is probably the only white water rafting spot, there is a lot more to explore in this beautiful place. This area is located in the North West of Karnataka, bordering Goa and close to Maharashtra. Vast expanse of thick W Ghats evergreen forests bustling with wildlife, energising streams and waterfalls, simple good people  – and all of this in an environment that is clean, Eco friendly and sparsely populated. The Blue Triangle in Picture 2 is the place I am referring to.

We explored all of this in 4 days from Amara Homestay. A great discovery that stands out on 3 areas

  • A genuinely warm and friendly homestay that believes and implements Eco Tourism – where the concept of Atithi Devo Bhava is practised to perfection
  • Great location – the only homestay in the heart of the Kali Tiger Reserve
  • Outstanding Veg food – made fresh and served piping hot. Wide variety that is wholesome and tasty

The Hegde’s own a 10 acre farm that has been part of the family for the last 500 years. Currently 4 generations live together happily. While farming is the core occupation, they started the homestay business about 12 years back. This is the best place to soak in the atmosphere of a N Karnataka Brahmin Havyaka community and relish Malnad Veg cuisine.They speak Konkani & Havyaka Kannada. We relished Kottai Idli, Kadabu, Rice Ajwain Patta, Tambli, Brahmi & Kokum juice and many more delicious dishes. Recipes from Archana (Click here for Recipes)


Everything here is fresh and natural. The food is grown locally in the farm – fully organic no chemicals, the water is natural spring water rich in minerals, milk is from their cows, the spices are ground fresh every day

Thats what keeps the locals healthy and strong. In the 4 days we spent here I did not see a single hospital or pharmacy store. On enquiry I learnt that there are no allopathy doctors in these villages. Everyone relies on grandmothers home made Ayurvedic potion and for serious issues like a snake bite there is an Ayurvedic doctor in the village

Getting here is easy

06589 Bangalore Mirajpur train leaves SBC at 9 PM and reaches Alnavar Junction at 6.30 AM. The ride from Alnavar to Amara is about 90 Min. You will reach your destination before 9AM and a hearty breakfast awaits you. The return journey on 06590 Mirajpur Bangalore is equally convenient – the train leaves Alnavar at 8PM and reached Bangalore at 6.30AM. Train operates every day.

This is not Dandeli 

While everyone refers to this area as Dandeli – you are actually not in proper Dandeli town. Amara is located in Gund Village inside the Kali Tiger reserve forest. It is very conveniently located to all the major attractions that are 20 – 30 kms from there. Here is a not to scale visual representation of the area you will cover

 

This is Kali River territory

The Kali river is a short 184 km river. But it is ferocious. It originates from an underwater spring on the Goa – Karnataka border. Numerous springs and streams from the hills add to its flow. The heavy rains in the W Ghats adds to its charm and intensity.  The word “Kali” is not a reference to the Godess but to the black stones on the riverbed that gives the pure water a black colour. The river flows mainly through thick jungles and is not accessible for most of its course. In a short span of 50 Kms it has 5 dams and the 2nd largest backwater catchment area in Asia. Two of the dams store water for the Kaiga Nuclear reactors. The river then finds its way to the Arabian Sea along the Karwar coast.

This is also a Tiger Reserve 

The forest area around here was notified as the Kali Tiger reserve about 8 years back. Post that no new homestay / construction activity is allowed. Existing homestay continue to operate with limited capacity. Amara is the only operating homestay from within the Kali Tiger reserve.

Planning your time here – sights to see 

Ajit who runs the day to day operations at Amara put together a plan for us to maximise coverage of the sights. Each day we covered two areas.

Morning 9 AM  – 1.30 PM  session 1 , followed by lunch and a brief siesta and then the 2nd session from 3 PM to 6.30 PM. Our man Friday was Uday – the driver + Guide who went out of the way to show us the sights of the place and also spot a black panther and leopard.

Day – 1 : Morning session, Trek to a beautiful waterfall thru thick forests

These are sights which only the locals know. The drive was about 45 minutes and then a 1 hr trek ( up & down) to a beautiful waterfall that originates from an underground spring, the rivulet then joins the Kaneri river – one of the main tributaries of the Kali river. This waterfall is full of water all 12 months. On the trek we spotted many snakes peeping out of their holes. Take a change of clothes as you will enter the waterfalls and get drenched

Day – 1 : Post Lunch session, Boat ride to the Supa Dam backwaters and beautiful islands, Sunset viewing 

A nice drive thru dense forests we reach the vast expanse of backwaters of Supa Dam dotted with beautiful islands. The place is vast and not a soul in sight. But yes we spotted numerous birds and at least 20 of the rare Hornbills. The islands are calm and serene and a great place to view the sunset. On the way back Uday ensured that we started late and were driving around 7 PM – thats the time when you get a chance to spot the animals, we were lucky in spotting a rare Black Panther crossing the road.

Day – 2 : Morning session, Whitewater rafting

The white water resort that offers multiple activities is about 35 Kms from Amara ( 75 min drive). It was not crowded even on a Sunday. We took the 30 min, 1 km option for Rs 450/- which gets you a feel of a level 3 Rapid. We went by the same rapid  3 times. A longer option is a 8 Km rafting session across multiple rapids that takes a few hrs. This is priced at Rs 1450. Compared to the Rishikesh experience this was a cakewalk – very safe, so go for it. If you are wondering who took this photo – Rs 1400 extra gets you a professional photographer to shoot you as you tumble down the rapid and the guide on his iPro gives you a video of your rafting session. As expected this area is clean but commercial and crowded. Take a change of clothes. 

Day – 2 : Post Lunch , Syntheri Rocks 

This is a nice view point located about 7 Km from Amara. The drive is less than 30 minutes. Its a walk down 200 steep steps to view the Kaneri river cut thru a steep cliff.

On the way back we stopped at an isolated location in the Anshi Forest and trekked thru dense jungle to the Kaneri river. The water level here during the rains rises by over 20 feet covering all the rocks, but now it was nice and calm. A great way to spend a few hours in the scenic beauty of the river surrounded by forests.

Day – 3 : You have two options 

Option – 1 : Dudhsagar 

My colleagues headed to Dudhsagar which is a full day trip. You drive to the Goa border and then the contact picks you up by jeep from there. You can then trek 26 Km (up and down) or drive all the way to Dudhsagar (1 Km trek). The 26 Km trek can be thru dense forests or along the rail track. If you decide to trek, it can be very tiring. You leave by 5.30 AM and get back at 9 PM, remember to carry water / snacks – there is no food on the route. Best time to Visit Dudhsagar is Sep – Nov immediately after the rains.

Option – 2 : Nature walk – Visit to the River etc

I stayed back and soaked in the atmosphere of the homestay. Spoke to the family members had meals in their house. Morning was spent in nature walk spotting birds and rare plants followed by a walk thru the Hegde’s 10 acre farm. Thats when you realise that life in a farm is hard work. You need to be multifaceted to manage the work all year around. They are so self sufficient that even 70% of their LPG needs are met from their Gobar gas plant.

In the evening we visited a neighbouring farm who are lucky to have the river flow along their border. How lucky can you get. I enjoyed my solitude sitting by the river and listening to the gurgling rapids.

Day – 4 : Jeeva Samadhi of Chinna Basaveshwara & trek to Akkal Gavi Caves 

The Jeeva samadhi of  the youth saint Chinna Basaveshwara is at Ulavi – 14 Km from Amara. This is a very famous site for the Lingayat’s of N Karnataka. A few Km from here is a trek to the Akka Nagamma caves. This is the place where Akka Nagamma hid her son (Chinna Basaveshwara) from the soldiers of the sultan who were trying to kill him (Around 1100 AD). The trek is a long one – but not difficult. There are 3 sets of caves. While there is a proper trail and steps – this is again thru dense forests.

You come back from the trek have lunch, a short nap and then by 4.30 you are ready to leave, to catch your train at Alnavar. On the way you may want to explore Shivaji’s fort (we did not) – but we did stop by the Crocodile park – that was disappointing.

So what we could not cover this trip 

  • The Jungle safari at Potoli gate Tiger reserve that operates between 6 – 8AM & 4 – 6PM
  • Shivpura Hanging bridge and Satodi Falls trek – Great place for sunset viewing
  • Diggi Hills – the source of the Kali River

I am sure I will come back to complete the list. Our friendly guide assured us that there were many more offbeat places to see which only the locals knew about. Best time to travel is April & Oct / Nov. April the hills are full of flowers and Oct / Nov the rivers are overflowing.

A few more points as you plan the trip 

  • Take the train – don’t drive from Bangalore – its a long 11 hr drive. You lose 2 days in the process. Train is convenient and you need a local jeep / guide to show you the places
  • Network coverage is poor – this is BSNL land. While Amara provides BSNL Wi Fi you will not get coverage on your Airtel / Voda / Jio phones.
  • The rooms are clean, functional & basic. Each cottage has a twin bed and a single bed + a mattress to accommodate a 4th person. Soap & towel are provided by Amara. Carry your toiletries. You get hot water and nice views.  Remember this is a homestay not a hotel
  • This is not a place for wild parties, loud music and liquor. Food is pure Veg. Respect the communities way of life.
  • The treks can be steep, carry good shoes. Carry change of clothes – the waterfalls and rafting will make you wet. Pack a rubber waterproof sandal – the river bed and waterfall area is rocky – good to have a footwear.
  • Carry water / snacks on the treks – there are no shops around these places. Carry your medicines.
  • Dont forget to pack your binoculars – lots of birds to watch
  • This place is not at an altitude – but the dense greenery and rivers make it cold. Max temperature is 35 degrees. Nov – Feb can be cold. Minimum temp in Jan can be 6 – 7 degrees. Carry some warm clothes and socks. Especially if you are planning early morning trips
  • This is a place you will feel like visiting again and again – a group of friends from Pune have visited Amara over 20 times.
  • Most people who visit them are from Maharashtra / Belgaum / Hubli / Dharwad – Bangaloreans are yet to discover this place
  • Roads are in great condition – they are almost empty so people go fast. While its not hilly terrain many roads are curvy and zig zag. Restrooms are a challenge – that’s why you do morning and evening sessions and head back to Amara for lunch.
  • Carry something for the Hegde’s – the 4th generation kid Atharva is very cute and you will feel bad if you don’t carry some goodies for them. Remember they treat you like family – so you better reciprocate
  • This place is real Value for money – Rs 1600/- per person / day inclusive of all meals (Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner / Tea/ Coffee / Fresh Juices / Snacks). You rent a jeep that can accommodate 8 people – for Rs 2800/day , driver cum guide extraordinary comes free
  • Go as a group of 6 – 7 people, thats more fun

And one more thing…. 

The word Amara has two meanings, it means immortal – it also stands for the initials of the owners Ajit – Mangala – Ramchandran. Ajit has a Masters in Hotel Management and his wife Rachna in Fine Arts. The family is an ideal, happy, contended family. They are good people who work hard, lead a simple life and serve you like family.When you travel to a place like this staying in a homestay is such a great learning experience, dont miss that.

So do spare a few days and go visit them – Amara Homestay, PO Gund, Via Dandeli. https://dandeliamara.com

 

4 Generations of the Hegde family 

 

Some more Views from the trip …..

Everyone concentrating on breakfast

 

That is Kottai Idli and the freshest coconut chutney, the red liquid is jaggery syrup made at home

 

A view of the room 

 

The waterfall we visited on Day 1

 

Backwaters of Supa Dam

 

Helping accumulate the Arecanut 

Piping hot Neer Dosas being made on a 100 year old metal Tava by Mangala Ji 

 

Skill at work 

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Explore Wayanad from the comfort of Tranquil Resorts

1 Feb

Sometimes its good to be landlocked with no train and airport connectivity. The beauty of Nature is preserved. Wayanad is the perfect example of such a place. Its as close to Bangalore as Ooty & Coorg but attracts less than 10% of the crowd. So if you are looking to soak in the best of un – trespassed nature nestled amidst the gorgeous western ghats – then head to Wayanad.

Wayanad is one of those holiday destinations that promise a little bit of everything – peace and tranquillity, stunning landscapes, nature and wildlife, trekking and camping adventures, history and culture, great food and excellent infrastructure.

We explored Wayanad from Tranquil Resorts (https://www.tranquilresort.com). A wonderful homestay with a great central location. Just 10 rooms in a 400 acres estate that grows Coffee /Arecanut / Exotic Fruits / Avocado and a lot more. It has the size of a resort but the warmth of a homestay. Tranquil has a history that dates back to 1896 and the current owners took over the property in 1994 and transformed it. The pedigree of the family is rich and diverse. Ajay – who runs the place is a great communicator and he can go non – stop narrating stories and anecdotes of family and guests who have visited Tranquil from all over the world. He is an amazing person full of positive energy. The passion with which they run the place would make you feel that they started this Home Stay last month – its been operational for 20 years.

Tranquil has 10 rooms – 5 garden rooms, a Tree Villa & Tree House, A Deluxe room, Luxury Suite and a 2 Bedroom Cottage. The place is warm, rustic and comfortable. The ambience is welcoming – The gardens are blooming with multitude of rare flowers and plants – all nurtured by Nisha (Ajay’s Wife), the dogs are friendly and the food is fresh, tasty and homely

We stayed at the Tree Villa – a huge room that can accommodate 4 and comes with 2 bathrooms and a large sit out. Its in the midst of the plantation surrounded with verdant greenery and great views and at 6.30 AM you can hear a zillion birds and if lucky the trumpet of an elephant. But as a family of 4 for the same price you could also take 2 Garden Rooms.

Its important that you choose the right place to stay. Waynad end to end is a 1 1/2 hr + drive , so if you pick a resort that at the edge of Waynad the drive from Bangalore is going to be very tedious. Also the Lakkadi view points at the Tip of Waynad is one of the wettest regions of the country. Tranquil is perfectly located – close to all the attractions and a 2 1/2 hr drive from Mysore.

Having decided to go to Wayanad and stay at Tranquil,

What can you do in Waynad 

There is a let to do. To cover all the sights may take you a week. The first step is to find a guide – you can do a lot more with the help of an able local. Ajay had patched us to Sabu Abraham – A bird watcher / trekker / nature enthusiast and a good human being. Sabu is associated with the local District Tourism Promotion Council. He was a great asset who helped us cover a lot of ground in the time we spent there (2 Nights) – so do contact him at +91 94479 52186.  You can also visit his website http://www.wayanad-naturetours.com

Trekking 

This place is paradise for trekkers. We climbed a steep hill called Kolagapara, a short drive from Tranquil. Took us 2 hrs – but it was intense and steep all along the way. There is also the Chembara peak which has a lake on the top. As you climb this hill the landscape changes – you see evergreen forests , grass lands and even a lake at the top. Professionals will head to Brahmagiri which is a full day affair. (70 Km from Tranquil). Close to Brahmagiri is an ancient temple Thirunelly

Waterfalls 

We visited the Kanthanpara falls. A very well maintained spotlessly clean picturesque waterfall. This was about 45 min from Tranquil. Two other beautiful waterfalls are Soochipara & Meen Mutty – both are located about about 20 Km from Tranquil.

Edakkal Caves 

A short 10 min drive from Tranquil gets you to Edakkal Caves. This is the only known place in India with Stone Age carvings. that date back to the Neolithic and Mesolithic ages (5000 – 6000 BC). Edakkal is said to have had links with Indus Valley – 400 signs discovered recently establish this linkage. Getting to the caves is not easy. A steep climb along a pathway for 1 Km and then 350 steps gets you to the caves. This place deserves a UNESCO World heritage tag. Its very well maintained

Opening 8.30 AM – Closing 4 PM. Closed on Mondays.

Banasura Sagar Earth Dam 

Second largest Earthen dam in Asia. Located about 1 hr 15 min from Tranquil. They have scenic walking trails and a nice lake.

Gurukul Botanical Sanctuary (https://www.gbsanctuary.org/ourstory.html)

Started on a small scale 40 years back by a passionate German environmentalist – its a place where endangered species of the W Ghats are are nurtured in a natural environment. The Gurukula Botanical Sanctuary is tucked away in the far away hills of the Wayanad forests of Kerala. It sits perched on a hillock by a perennial stream that flows all the way into the Bay of Bengal.

The Sanctuary is a patch of 50 acres of forests land of which some 40 acres are left largely alone for natural succession. About 5 acres is meticulously tended and doubles as a showcase for visitors to visit, explore, interrogate and comprehend. The Gurukula tends its forests on the principles of restoration ecology with careful, conscious human interference. Form the mosses, liverworts, ferns, orchids, lichens to the massive angiosperms, each one is documented, catalogued, tended and known by nature, place, origin, age and stage. You can schedule a trip here by calling them up.

Distance from Tranquil – 1 Hr 45 Min (Near Brahmagiri Trek)

Wildlife Sanctuaries 

The Muthanga wildlife sanctuary is located 25 Km from Tranquil. Booking is first come basis for a jeep ride and you have a good chance of spotting Elephants / Deers / Peacocks…. . Of the 3 sanctuaries in this area ( Bandipur / Muthanga / Kabini – Your chances of spotting wildlife is best in Kabini). Morning sessions start at 7 AM and evening at 3 PM. Weekend can be very crowded

Lakkidi View Point

Lakkidi is one of the highest locations in Wayanad, Vythiri is the nearest town. Three km from Lakkidi is Pookot Lake, a natural freshwater lake spread across 15 acres. It is one of the rarest reservoirs of water in Wayanad. Surrounded by meadows and hills, it is a favourite picnic spot. Lakkidi’s annual rainfall averages from 600cm to 650cm.

There are a few other places worth visiting – Jain Temple at Sultan Batheri, Lav Kush Temple etc. Locals say that a must visit is the Glass temple of Koottamunda situated about 20 km from Kalpetta. It is a famous Jain temple, on the slopes of Vellarimala. It is dedicated to the third Thirthankara of the Jains, Parswanatha Swami. The exquisite beauty of the temple owes a lot to its construction. There are icons of Parswanatha Swami and Padmavathi Devi in the sanctum of the temple. Mirrors are placed in the inner walls of the temple and you can see numerous beautiful patterns of the reflections of these idols in these mirrors.

A few  points about Waynad 

  • The word Wayanad comes from ” Vayal” – Paddy Fields and Nadu – “Land”
  • Wayanad is landlocked – shares borders with Karnataka & Tamil Nadu.
  • The altitude varies from 700 – 2100M. But the drive is not hairpin drive.
  • Given this altitude the weather is pleasant all year around – max temp is 32 degrees. lowest temperature in Dec – Jan is 10 – 12 degree. Rainy seasons can be very wet.
  • Given the range of altitude you will find a wide variety of flora and fauna – from deciduous trees to evergreen forests, pine trees and meadows
  • The place is well maintained and spotlessly clean. The roads are great – no potholes. the town of Sultan Bathery was picture perfect with neatly painted shops, flower pots on the pathways and not an ounce of garbage.
  • The town of Sulthan Bathery was formerly called Ganapathyvattam. During the invasion of Malabar by Tipu this town was used by his army as the storeroom or battery for his ammunition. Thus the town came to be known as Sultan’s Battery which later became Sultan Bathery.
  • The total size of Wayanad is only 2132 Sq Km (Thats smaller than Bangalore) of which 900 Sq Km is under forest cover
  • Dont be worried with the demographics of Wayanad – its not like Mirzapur or Meerut, its clean, efficient and beautiful.

Distances

  • Bangalore – Thotada Mane 144 Km (Restaurant break at Srirangapatna)
  • Bangalore – Mysore 159 Km
  • Bangalore – Tranquil Resorts 279 Km
  • Distances can be deceptive – a drive from Bangalore to Wayanad with a stopover can be a tiring 6 – 7 hrs. The Bangalore – Mysore stretch slows you down. Recommend a stopover at Mysore for the night, then you can reach Waynad the next day by 11 AM after a relaxed breakfast at Mysore
  • Once you leave Mysore there is no good restaurant / restroom break. So if you are driving non stop do a stop over near Mysore.
  • I would recommend this lovely place called Thotada Mane, its a few km off the highway. A very nice homely place where they serve fresh Veg food in a nice green ambience amidst fields. Clean restrooms. Make note of the timings – they are normally open from 8.30 – 3.30 and closed on Mondays.

A Few points about Tranquil 

  • Network connection is great – your 4G works very well, rooms have TV.
  • Room rates are inclusive of Breakfast & Dinner.
  • Bird watching and walking around the Plantation – Budget for 2 hrs
  • The garden rooms are located in the main building adjacent to the owners house. These rooms face the garden and share a common verandah. Rooms come with two speerate twin beds. The bathrooms are very spacious
  • Tranquil serves Beer – but other liquor you need to get from local stores. Remember you can’t carry liquor from Karnataka to Kerala. The Govt stores have a premium counter with no Q
  • Get your emission test, carry your Car documents – the Cops may trouble you at the border
  • Waynad is the place to buy spices – great quality at excellent prices. So visit a wholesaler and stock up on Pepper / Cashews / Turmeric / Kokum / Coffee etc

 

Exotic flowers – we spotted the rare Dutchman’s Pipe and a leaf that is like sandpaper

 

The full moon was brilliant from our room, and thats freshly plucked Coffee beans being spread for drying.

A Coffee shrub with densely packed Coffee beans and views from our Trek.

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