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Chidambaram & Thiruvanamalai from Bangalore

I have been on the temple circuit since Dec 2016. Varanasi – Sarnath , then Kancheepuram and now in Feb 2017 a wonderful trip to Chidambaram & Thiruvanamalai.

The Thillai Nataraja temple at Chidambaram has been on my bucket list for long. Its an ancient temple – with many mystical stories around its history & architecture. This is the only temple that depicts Lord Shiva in the Nataraja pose performing the Ananda Tandava (“Dance of Delight”) as the supreme being who performs all cosmic activities.

Chidambaram is one of the five Pancha Bootha Sthalams, the holiest Shiva temples each representing one of the five classical elements; Chidambaram represents akasha (aether) – I have been to 3 others – Kalahasti – Air, Thiruvanamalai – Fire, Kancheepuram – Earth, which leaves the 5th one representing water – the Jambukeshwar temple which is in Tiruvanaika near Tiruchi. The Shiva Linga here signifies the element water.

For more details on the Chidambaram Temple read this link http://www.chidambaramnataraja.org/about_temple.html

Getting to Chidambaram

We left Bangalore at 6 AM and reached our hotel in time for lunch at 1.45. (375 Kms) Two stops – one at 8 AM for breakfast and gas just before the NH bifurcates to Chennai & Salem and the second stop at around 11 AM about 80 kms after Salem. The road is good and barring two small stretches where we were struck for 20 min we were zipping all along. My friends Mahindra XUV is an excellent road warrior – stable and safe and it was even better than my Innova.

We stayed at the Lakshmi Vilas Heritage – a beautiful property with 16 rooms in a village about 15 Kms south of Chidambaram. A large property with lots of greenery, a nice pond and a 150 year old temple in its compound – and very affordable too (4 K / Night for double occupancy inclusive of Breakfast and Wi Fi). Food is good – simple and homely and they serve both Indian and a few continental dishes. Its managed by a few good people – so don’t expect 5 Star finesse. Rooms are nice – more than basic with AC , TV , Nice big Bathroom , Hot Water 24 by 7. You don’t need anything more. The good thing is – the hotel is away from the crowded streets of Chidambaram and is located only 45 Kms from Kumbakonam. So its easy to cover the temples to the South of Chidambaram from here.

The Main Nataraja Temple at Chidamabaram

A large temple it was built by king Paranthaka Chola in 5th century BC and constantly renovated by future Chola and Pallava kings. It is said that to worship Nataraja in this temple Adishesha took rebirth as Patanjali. In addition to the main Nataraja statue the temple also has a Shiva linga in Crystal stone and one in Ruby. The Sanctum Sanctorum has a golden roof with 21600 leaves that denotes the no of breaths we take every day. The 72,000 golden nails stand for the “Nadis’ or nerve junction points in our body,

Unique aspect of this temple is that it is managed by 300 Priests and their families. There is no Trust / No Govt Interference / No Mutt – over thousands of years the ancestors of the Priests and their families have been managing the temple. These priests are dedicated wholly for the temple and do not perform any other activities. The temple is neat, well organised , there are no VIP Q and special tickets like Tirupathi. But if you want a good Dharshan close to the Sanctum Sanctorum it helps to know one of the 300 Priest Families.

We were lucky to be introduced to Natarjamani Deekshitar by a friend – and that really helped us to get an excellent Darshan – once in the evening at 4 PM and later at 6 AM in the morning when the temple opens. You can also reach out to them if you need help ( Phone – 04144 – 2276544, Mobile – 9487313933 , Their house is located right next to the temple at 107/A East Car street, Near Rich Rich Shop behind Sowju Textiles) The priests do not demand any fees – but they manage their families with the donations we make.

We were extremely happy with both our visits and had an excellent Darshan and temple tour. the morning visit at 6 AM when they open the temple is highly recommended. The ringing of bells , Dumroos, the procession , all of this with the opening of the Sanctum Sanctorum is a high energy event.

The temple is large but you can complete the darshan and the tour in 1 hr easily ( We were lucky to be there on a week day when the crowd was very light) – don’t miss the Prasadam – its extremely tasty and available for a very reasonable price. There are no dress codes – so you can be comfortable in Pant / Shirt or Dhoti Kurta. While entering the Sanctum Sanctorum you need to remove your shirt. Recommended that you stick to Indian Wear.

We finished our Darshan and temple tour by 6.30 PM and walked around the temple before we landed up at Sri Krishna Vilas for Dinner. the food is outstanding and the rates are very very reasonable. We kept coming for most of our meals during our stay here. This is also on East Car street right next to the Priests house

We finished day – 1 by 830 PM and headed back to the hotel. day – 2 was to be a busy day.

Day – 2 we started early. We left our hotel by 6.30 AM. Our first stop was the Gangai Konda Cholapuram temple. A Grand temple built by Rajendra Chola I, the son and successor of Rajaraja Chola, the great Chola who conquered a large area in South India, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Sumatra, Kadaram (Kedah in Malaysia), Cambodia and others at the beginning of the 11th century A.D. It occupies an important place in the history of India. As the capital of the Cholas from about 1025 A.D. for about 250 years, the city controlled the affairs of entire southern India, from the Tungabhadra in the north to Ceylon in the south and other south east Asian countries. The architecture of this temple is comparable to that of the Brihadeswara Temple in Tanjore.

Located South of Chidambaram about 20 km from our Hotel on the way to Kumbakonam – budget 45 min at this beautiful and grand temple. More famous for its architecture than its divinity.

Our next stop was a jewel in the crown. A small temple tucked in the middle of a village. It took us 45 minutes to reach here thru narrow by lanes of villages. Melakadambur is a village located 31 kilometres (19 mi) from Chidambaram. The Arulmigu Amirthakateshwarar Thirukkoil was constructed by Kulothunga Chola and is more than 1000 years old. This Sivalinga is Self-manifested or Swayambhu Linga. The temple is small , was totally empty and is buzzing with energy. We loved it. Don’t miss this temple if you go to Chidambaram.

It took us about 40 minutes to get back to Chidambaram for Breakfast and by 9.45 AM we were heading towards Sirkazhi to visit the Brahma Parameshwar temple. The town also has a famous Perumal temple but we skipped that and headed to the Vaitheeswaran temple close by. The temple is open till 1.30 and we made it there by 12.30. A big crowded temple – you can feel the energy of the temple if you sit in a corner quietly for some time. This temple is famous for curing ailments and outside it you will find many ” Nadi Astrologers” who will predict your past very accurately – we stayed away from them , as it sounded a tad bogus.

After a long morning we headed back to our hotel and reached by 1.30 in time for a sumptuous meal. All that you see in the photo comes for Rs 200/- .

After a few hours of rest we headed out at 4 PM to another spectacular temple the Sri Mushnam temple which is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his Avatar as a Boar. A Massive temple – no crowds – and we were able to complete our darshan in less than 20 minutes.

From here we headed to another ancient temple – the Perumal temple at Kattu Mannar. A 30 min drive from the Boar temple. Again an ancient temple with a lot of mythology associated with it – but the temple has seen better days. Our hotel was 8 Kms from here and we reached by 7.45 PM. It was a long day and we had covered a lot of ground – 6 temples and over 200 kms of driving. A simple dinner of Phulka Rotis , Dal , Sabji , Curd , Rice – and we sat outside in the Charpoy admiring the full moon before heading to bed by 9.30 PM.

Day – 3 we start early and reach the Priests house by 5.45 AM for the morning Puja at the Thillai Nataraja Temple. This is a must visit. The Sanctum Sanctorum opens by 6.30 AM for public viewing and a grand ceremony is held every morning. The Puja gets over by 6.45 AM.

Our next stop was the Thillai Kali temple – the Consort of Thillai Nataraja , located just 850 M from the Main Nataraja Temple . A small temple it houses Kali as Amman and Rudra Kali in her angry form. The temple was decked with lemons and I asked the Priest the significance of lemons and Devi temples – he had no answer – so thats some homework for me to research.

After breakfast we headed towards Kumbakonam. From Chidambaram the Darasuram Temple – a UNESCO world Heritage site was about 60 Km ( from our hotel 45 Km) – and it took us 90 minutes to get there. Lovely architecture and exquisite sculpture is the hallmark of this massive Shiva temple.

Kumbakonam is full of temples and I have covered most of them in my visit a few years back. But to give my friend a flavour of the city we drove around the town to the Uppaliappan temple – a large Vishnu Temple in the outskirts of the city. After a darshan here we reached Swamimalai for lunch at the beautiful Indecco hotel – another Heritage property. We had stayed here when we had travelled to Kumbakonam some years back – if you are travelling to Kumbakonam do stay here. (https://atomic-temporary-14030268.wpcomstaging.com/2012/02/17/kumbakonam-tanjore-3-day-trip/)

It was tempting to travel another 45 Km South to the Brihadeswara temple at Tanjore but we decided to keep that for a future visit with Tiruchi and headed back to our hotel to reach by 3.30 in time for a nice cup of tea. A few hrs of rest and then we walked around the property visiting the 150 year old temple in its premises and strolled by the village market. Dinner by 8 PM and we were off to sleep by 9 PM – the next day we were heading to Thiruvanamalai and needed an early start.

Day – 4 We head to Thiruvanamalai

We left at 6.15 AM and reached Thiruvanamalai at 9 AM – the 120 KM distance has good roads ( single lane) and being a Sunday morning the roads were empty. There are many eating joints opposite the Ramana Ashram and after a quick breakfast we reached the Ashram. Its a beautiful place – full of soothing energy. A Temple dedicated to Arunachala, Ramana Maharishi’s Samadhi , a Meditation Hall and a lovely Library form the main complex. They also have a room where he breathed his last and a nice cowshed. The Ashram has many peacocks and birds and was buzzing with people – mostly foreigners. This is a place of self discovery – so there is no routine / workshop / sessions that are held to engage the visitors or those staying here. They have rooms to stay – but getting a room is difficult especially between Nov & Feb. We knew one of the Trustees at the temple and he promised to help us get a room at the Ashram during our next visit. Mani uncle walked us thru the campus and took us to the point from where we started a 40 minute trek to the Skanda Ashram & Virupaksha Cave. Its a easy trek – rocky and takes you to two caves where Ramana Maharishi meditated for almost 20 years. The caves are beautiful and full of energy. In 5 Minutes I could sense the the energy equivalent of what I had after 6 days or 60 hrs of my Vipassna meditation – thats the power of these caves.

You can come back to the Ashram or walk along and reach the Arunachala Temple. This is the Shiva Temple dedicated to Fire. Its massive and very well maintained. Being. Sunday it was very crowded so we decided to come back in the evening – temple is open from 5 AM to 9.30 PM.

We stayed at the Sparsa hotel – a beautiful property full of greenery and with excellent rooms. If you don’t get a room in the Ashram stay here – its as peaceful and serene as the Ashram. Rates are very reasonable (Rs 5500 / night for double occupancy inclusive of breakfast) – after lunch and a few hrs of rest we headed back to the Ashram at 4 PM. A Drive around the Hills “Girivaram” – normally people walk these 18 Kms – considered very auspicious.

Between 4.30 and 6.30 PM we stayed at the Ashram – there were talks and Vedic Chantings going on and after a hr of meditation we headed to the Temple reaching there by 7.30 PM. Everything is close Sparsa to Ashram is a 5 min drive and Ashram to Temple is another 5 min drive. Mornings and late evenings are the best time to go to a temple – its cool and relatively empty. By 7.30 the temple crowd had reduced and we got excellent Dharshan in less than 20 minutes. They have a normal Q and a 20 Rs Q.

View of the temple from the trek to the Virupaksha Cave – admire its size and symmetry.

Happy and satisfied we headed back to the hotel and reached by 9 PM after a simple dinner.

Day – 5 We head back to Bangalore. We left at 5.15 AM and reached E City at 8.30 AM. Be careful of the road you take – the shorter route as shown by Google Maps is a bad road full of potholes. After you reach Singarpet take a right and come via the Tirupattaur outer to Bardur and Krishnagiri where you meet the Chennai Bangalore 6 lane expressway. We reached the Expressway at 7 AM and were at E City by 8.30. Thats good timing given that this is a 180 Km distance.

Thu to Monday we had travelled 1200 Kms – a low cost trip the per person expense was less than Rs 15,000/- thats 3K / day. (All my previous holidays were almost 20 K / day). Everything worked like clockwork – Roads were Good , Google Maps was perfect, food was good, the Rooms were nice , there was hardly any crowd wherever we went , the weather was excellent, the people we met were nice and friendly from the waiter at Lakshmi Niwas to the French Sita at the Q in Thiruvanamalai – and by divine grace we got the contacts to the Priests at the Chidambaram temple as we were driving, we had made no attempts to get the details. Mani Mama at Ramana Ashram helped us with the right directions to Bangalore else we would have been stuck in a pothole road taking a few extra hrs to reach Bangalore.

Many of the temples we visited had just completed their Kumbhabhishekam – and its very auspicious to visit a temple within 40 days of the Kumbhabhishekam. All in all a very satisfying trip. I had wonderful company and that made the trip even more delightful – with two people sharing the driving load and the costs it becomes so much more easier to do these trips in a. cost efficient manner.

Kumbhabhishekham is a temple ritual that is believed to homogenize, synergize and unite the mystic powers of the deity. Kumbha means the Head and denotes the Shikhara or Crown of the Temple (usually in the Gopuram) and Abhisekham is ritual bathing. On the appointed day and at an auspicious time, the Kumbha is bathed with the charged and sanctified holy waters in the sacrificial pot and, by a mystic process, these pranic powers trickle down a silver wire and enter the deity installed inside the sanctum sanctorum of the temple. The deity, which was until then only a granite sculptured stone image, is believed to transform into a vibrant and vivid living representation of the deva with innate beatitude, grace and grandeur, conferring divine blessings on all devotees.

Few Tips

Travel during the weekdays – its a lot easier – lesser crowds , easier to get rooms.
Nov – Feb is the best time to travel – Summer can be extremely hot 45 Degrees +
Visit Temples early Morning or Late Evening.
And lastly if your room mate snores like crazy carry ear plugs or some cotton – it works and helps you have a peaceful sleep

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Tags: Chidambaram best place to stay, Chidambaram in 2 days, Chidambaram Travel Tips, Thiruvanamalai best place to stay, Thiruvanamalai Travel Tips

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Categories Short Breaks, Travel

Best of Kanchipuram in 10 hrs

2 Jan

Kanchipuram – The golden city of 1000 temples (Currently about 125 are in good shape), is just 71 kms from Chennai. Its an irony that I have been travelling to Chennai multiple times every year for the last 20 years but have never been to Kanchipuram. Most tourists go to Mahabalipuram not realising that the Pallavas Capital – Kanchipuram is equally close.

Its a sheer coincidence that within 10 days of visiting Varanasi (Kashi) I was at Kanchipuram. Many regard Kancipuram to be the second holiest city in India after Varanasi. Its in the list of 7 sacred cities of India (the Mokshapuri cities – it is believed by living or death in these cities you get liberation from the cycle of birth and death). The similarity between Kashi and Kanchipuram is not just in the piousness and the temples but also in the world famous silk sarees that they make.

Kanchipuram was under Pallava rule from 6th – 8th century , followed by the Cholas and then the Vijaynagar kings. Many of the amazing temples were built by the Pallava in the 6th and 7th century and still stand majestically in great shape. While most Hindu Temples in South India are Shaivite or Vaishnavite bastions , Kanchipuram has divided itself into Vishnu Kanchi surrounded by the Vardarajan Perumal Temple and Shiva Kanchi surrounded by the Ekambaranath temple while the Kamakshi Amman temple stands in between as a place of Shakti worship.

Kanchipuram has over a 1000 temples and you can spend weeks visiting them – but then there are a few that definitely merit a visit.

We left Chennai at 530 AM and reached our first stop – The food Temple – Saravana Bhawan, on the Chennai Bangalore Highways just before Kanchipuram by 7 AM.(Lakshmi Narayani Complex, NH-4,Banglore Highway | Near Meenakshi Medical College). Lots of parking , spacious , clean toilets – and the standard high quality veg breakfast of piping hot idli , Wada and Pongal – was a good start to a great day.

1st Stop – Ekambareshwar Temple ( Budget 45 min on a week day not crowded)

6AM – 1230 PM & 4 PM – 8.30 PM

Most famous Shiva temple of Kanchipuram – considered to be one of the oldest in the country. Here Shiva is worshipped in the form of an Earth Linga. One of the rare temples where no Abhishekam is done on the lingam. One of the tallest temples in S India the Gopuram soars to a height of 192 feet. The temple is spread over 20 acres. As per Legend Shiva was enraged with Parvathi and sent her packing to earth. She prayed at this temple spot under a mango tree for many years by making a Shiva Linga out of the sand of the Kamba River. Finally Shiva came to earth and stayed with her at this Temple. To this day people worship the mango tree. The 3500 mango tree is believed to produce 4 types of mangoes from 4 branches that stand for the 4 vedas.

The temple compound also has a Vishnu Shrine – Nilathunda Perumal – which is revered as one of the 108 Divya Desams. The temple also has two large tanks. The temple was originally built by the Pallava king and later enlarged by the Chola and Vijaynagar kings. Well maintained – neat and clean it was empty on a weekday we visited – and we could cover it well in 45 minutes.

2nd Stop – Kailasanathar Temple ( Budget 30 – 45 Minutes)

9.30AM – 1230 PM & 4 PM – 6 PM

This temple was built by the Pallava king Rayasimhan in the 8th century. It is perhaps the largest surviving sandstone temple in the world and is considered the oldest structure of Kanchipuram. Looks very similar to the shore temple – but the distinguishing feature are the panels on the walls depicting the life of Shiva.

The temple is unique in its architecture and is viewed more as an architectural beauty than a holy place. When we reached at 920 the temple was closed and the priest was expected only by 930. Legend has it that “Poosalar Nayannar” a Shiva devotee decided to build a temple – but due to lack of means he built it in his dreams. The day of the consecration of the Kailasanatha temple clashed with that of Poosalar’s imaginary temple. Shiva came to the King and his dreams and asked him to change the date of the Consecration as he would be first visiting Poosalar’s temple given the devotion and passion with which he has built his temple of dreams.

3rd Stop – Kanchi Kudil (Budget 15 – 30 Minutes)

Opens at 930 AM

Its a traditional Mudaliar house that has been preserved like a museum. They also serve a traditional Lunch if you order in advance ( Veg & Non Veg) at 350/ plate – Contact A Udhayakumar – 9941138703

4th Stop – Kanchi Kamakshi Temple (Budget 60 Minutes)

5.30AM – 1230 PM & 4 PM – 8.30 PM

India has 3 main cities where the Goddess Shakti is worshipped – Kanchipuram holds the most important rank amongst the three. The 3 powerful goddesses are Kanchi Kamakshi , Madurai Meenakshi and Kashi Vishalakshi.

The Kamakshi temple is an ancient one and was built in its current state by the Cholas in the 14th century. Spread across 5 acres the sanctum is gold plated. While the goddess Parvati is seen standing in most temples she is found sitting here in a yogis posture – Padmasana and is referred to as Parabrahma Swarupini. She has four arms and is seen holding a bow, a lotus, a parrot and a sugarcane.

It is believed that Kamakshi was originally a Ugra Swaroopini and Adi Shankara on establishing the Sri Chakra personified her as Shanti Swaroopini. The temple structure is complicated and when we visited in Dec 2016 – it was undergoing renovation.

You can reach very close to the sanctum sanctorum and get an excellent Darshan of the powerful deity. Fortunately the day we visited it was not crowded.

5th Stop – Vardaraja Perumal temple also known as Devraja Temple (Budget 45 – 60 Minutes)

7AM – 12 PM & 3.30 PM – 8 PM

Dedicated to Lord Vishnu this temple is located in Vishnu Kanchi a short drive from the Kanchi Kamakshi temple. The main temple here is Lord Varadaraja who is seen standing and facing west. It is considered a very holy site for Vaishnavites. It was built immediately after the Kailasanatha temple by Paramaeshwaravarman Pallava in the 7th century. The majestic Gopuram with its intricate carvings is a sight to behold.

The 100 pillared hall is the unmistakable legacy of the Vijaynagara rulers. The unique features of this temple are the lizards carved above the sanctum that are plated in gold. A large temple spread over 20 acres. Very well maintained.

5th Stop – Vardaraja Perumal temple also known as Devraja Temple (Budget 45 – 60 Minutes)

6th Stop – Shankaracharya Mutt (Budget 30 Minutes)

One of the Mutts established by Adi Shankara – for the religious Tamil Brahmin its a rare honour to visit the Mutt which is home to the Shankaracharya of Kanchi. We stopped by for 30 min – steeped in rituals and tradition it may be very religious but sadly it lacked spirituality.

7th Stop – Lunch at another Saravana Bhawan – in the Main Kanchipuram city

We were lucky as the temples were almost empty we reached the Saravana Bhawan at Gandhi Road for lunch. We had made good time and we reached by 12 noon. The City is clean and well maintained. None of the temple we were hounded by priests for extra money neither were there VIP Q’s .

For the ambitious post lunch you can travel to Mahabalipuram. Chennai – Kanchipuram – Mahabalipuram form a Triangle. But we decided to head back. Our timing was great and we were back home by 3.30 in the afternoon well before the traffic rush.

Kanchipuram can get very hot in the summers – best time to visit is between Nov – Feb.

If you have the time and energy here are a few other temples you could visit

Ulahalanda Perumal temple
Kumara Kottam Subramaniam Swami temple
Kacchapeswarar temple
Chitragupta Swami temple

And visit some stores for the Original Kancheepuram silk sarees

The driver we engaged was excellent – Raju owns a well maintained clean Innova. You can contact him at + 91 9941404541 or +91 8939756776. He is efficient and professional.

For those travelling from Bangalore its best to plan an overnight trip. Leave Bangalore by 10 AM and reach Kancheepuram by 2.30 3. Check into the GRT hotel – freshen up and start your temple tour by 4 PM when the temples open for the evening Darshan. Complete a set in the evening and do the rest the next day morning 6.30 – 9.30 AM. Have Breakfast – check out and leave by 1030 AM to Reach Bangalore by 230 – 3.

Regency Kanchipuram by GRT Hotels

Address: 487, Gandhi Road, Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu 631502.

Contact No: 044-27225250

E-mail: reservationskanchi@grtregency.com

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Categories Short Breaks, Travel

Benares & Sarnath in 48 Hrs

13 Dec

Kashi & Sarnath in 48 Hours

It competes with Jerusalem for the tag of the oldest city – but clearly no city can compare with it for its mix of Mythology, Religion, History, Art and Culture. It’s the summer home of Lord Shiva – throw a stone you will hit an ancient temple and walk a furlong you will find an Ashram.

From Baba’s & Aghoris, Saints & Sufi Mystics, Silk Weaving to Shehnai, Pan, Desi Ghee sweets, Good tasty affordable food and lots more – it’s all packed in the 8 km stretch across 84 Ghats and in the narrow by – lanes of this ancient city.

Sarnath is a stone’s throw away – a mere 15 kms. While Varansi the hub of Hindu Religion is steeped in ritual and tradition – Sarnath symbolizes Buddha with its peace and tranquil atmosphere. This is where Buddha after his enlightenment gave his first sermon to his 5 disciples. This is where the first Ashok Chakra was built with the Sarnath Stupa. This is where the 11^th Jain Tirthankara was born. Sushruta, the great surgeon and author of the Sushruta Samhita, the Sanskrit text of surgery, lived in Varanasi and practised medicine and surgery sometime during the 5th century BC. Tulsidas wrote his epic poem on Rama’s life called Ram Charit Manas in Varanasi. Several other major figures of the Bhakti movement were born in Varanasi, including Kabir and Ravidas. Guru Nanak Dev visited Varanasi for Shivratri in 1507, a trip that played a large role in the founding of Sikhism.

From Shiva to Buddha, the Jain Tirthankara’s, Kabir, Lahiri Mahasaya, Dr Lal Bahadur Shastri, Pt Ravi Shankar, Shehnai Maeestro Bismillah Khan , Pt Madan Mohan Malviya (Founder of IT BHU) and many more – the city definitely has contributed a lot. And all of that comes from the rare energy that the city possesses.

Sadguru Jaggi Vasudev explains this beautifully in his video on Varanasi – Benares is not a city it’s a Yantra. There is a science by which the temples were built in a certain pattern to accentuate the energy. On the banks of the holy Ganga the city was designed in such a manner that anyone who came here never wanted to go back. He even says that it’s a celestial city that sits on Mahadevs Trishul – in a different plane from most cities.

But sadly a lot of that is lost. The beautiful architecture of the rock temples is covered with gaudy layers of paints, the city chokes in its crowded by lanes and you really need to dive deep past this muck to get a breath of fresh air and feel the energy of the ancient Varanasi. But this energy is so powerful that there are places where it still does touch you and that’s what attracts tourists and pilgrims in droves.

Can you cover all of this in 48 hrs – yes you can and here is a plan to get going.

Indigo has a direct flight from Bangalore to Varanasi. Departs at 11.15 AM reaching at 1.45 – our flight was delayed by 30 min. Our guide Manoj was at the airport to receive us ( and he was a godsend – we owe the success of covering so much ground to him) – the journey from the airport to our hotel near Assi Ghat in Varanasi was a mess. About 30 kms it took us almost 90 min. (Hopefully 2017 should get better as Modi Ji is getting a expressway constructed that should let you zip in less than 30 minutes). Typical E – UP town, small shops, dusty, crowded roads – it’s like how the Durgapur – Calcutta Grand Truck road used to be in the 80’s. it’s a sore sight and I did get a tad worried on what the next 2 days had in store for us.

We reached our hotel – a small boutique property “De Bouginvilla” located in a nice residential area very close to Assi Ghat. It’s a new property less than 1 month old – small and efficient – Rs 3500/- night, inclusive of breakfast & Wi Fi. (P 3/6, Lane no. 15, Ravindrapuri, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh 221005). Suited us perfectly. http://debougainvilla.com. (Other options you could consider as recommended by our Guide – Alka Guest House, Ganapati Guest House & Benares Haveli – all properties with room rates within 5K)

Day – 1 : We started around 4 PM

A quick cup of tea and we were ready to leave. In Dec the sun sets at 5 PM and we were starting out at 3.45. It was cold and in Varanasi you walk – so get yourself a good pair of walking shoes. You share the narrow alleys with Cows, Dogs, Bikers and fellow pedestrians. There will be garbage and dung – so look around as you walk. The city has over 23,000 temples but there are a few that you cannot miss – The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, The Kedareshwar temple , and the Kal Bhairav Temple – these form the 3 Main Temple Complexes. Mythology says that these 3 temples are perched on the 3 points Shivas Trishul.

We spent a few hrs walking around the by lanes of the old city and immersing ourselves. Stopping by a chai shop for a warm cup, looking at temples as they popped out in every nook and corner. We walked past the Vedshala – where the young kids were being trained in Yoga and Vedic Sciences and general studies. Right next to it was the ancient Kedareshwar temple and we stopped by for Lord Shiva’s blessings for a successful trip. As per mythology praying at the Kedar temple in Kashi is 7 times more effective than the main temple at Kedarnath.

(http://varanasi-temples.com/category/shiva-temples/main-shiva-temples/kedareshwar/)

From here we headed to Dashashwamedh Ghat for the evening Ganga Arti. This is also called the Rajendra Prasad Ghat. The arti starts around 6 PM and continues for about 30 minutes. Fire, Drums, Bells clanging, large crowds – it’s definitely a must watch. No tickets. But come early for a prime spot – you won’t be as lucky as PM Modi and Abe to have a decorated area cordoned off for you.

The Prime Minister, Shri Narendra Modi and the Prime Minister of Japan, Mr. Shinzo Abe witnessing the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, in Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh on December 12, 2015.

After the arti we walked along and visited the ancient Brihaspati temple (http://varanasi-temples.com/category/shiva-temples/other-shiva-temples-a-d/brihaspateeshwar/) and headed for dinner to “Keshari” near Gadoria Chowk. A sumptuous meal (After our breakfast at home – all we had was an Upma in the Indigo flight and a few cups of tea and we were famished) – and we headed back to the hotel – day 2 was to be a long one starting at 5 AM.

Day – 2 : We start at 5 AM

We were up by 4 AM – had a nice bath and took off on a cold foggy day at 5 AM with Manoj. We had an option of going to Assi Ghat and seeing the morning Arti – which is very different from the evening Arti (Mantras / Music / Yoga etc) or to start with the temple tours. We preferred to start the day with a trip to the famous Kashi Vishwanath temple. One of the 12 Jyotirlingas ( The second one I was visiting within a month after the recent trip to Jageshwar , I missed the Jyotirlinga near Ellora a few months back). This temple has been destroyed a few times by invaders including once by Aurangzeb but has been rebuilt.

Past multiple narrow by lanes we finally reached the temple (you need to leave your bags, belt, cell phone) before you enter the temple. We were lucky – there was no crowd and got a great Darshan of the Swayambu and were able to sit quietly near the sanctum sanctorum for a long time. ( Visual is a Google Image – we were not allowed to take our Phones inside)

The temples in Benares are not large like the S Indian ones. They are small and located in the heart of the city – no open gardens / courtyards. If the temple could have spoken it would have screamed like an American “Give me Space”. Its jammed in the midst of houses, shops, lanes. There have been endowments from Maharaja Ranjit Singh so parts of the architecture have a Sikh design and the main temple pyramid is covered with 900 kg of Gold (Wonder if the ascetic god Shiva would have appreciated that). Fortunately, nobody bugged us – no tickets for special darshan, no Q’s for Prasad – that was a pleasant surprise in all the temples we visited. All the Temple premises are clean and well maintained.

Immediately after this we visited the Annapurna Temple nearby and then as we were heading to Manikarna Ghat we stopped by a beautiful Nepali Temple (Almost all temples in Varanasi are dedicated to Shiva or Devi barring the Sankat Mochan temple which is dedicated to Hanuman). The Nepali temple was originally made of wood with intricate carvings but has now been restored and is a mix of Red Bricks and the original black wood. It’s a beautiful temple with a great view of the Ganges and the rising sun.

A five-minute walk to Manikarna Ghat (This and the Harishchandra Ghats are the only two Ghats where cremation services can be done). Its messy and not a nice site so see the dead bodies burning. For people who work here its business as usual. Right next to the Manikarna Ghat is a Kund and a small Shiva temple which is almost submerged. This temple is supposed to be older than the Kashi Vishwanath temple – but few come here. (Note that women are not allowed to visit the burning ghats).

We took a boat and crossed over to the other side of the Ganges. Our Guide was worried – hardly anyone does this trip. But I wanted to visit a Aghori – and there were a few camping on the other bank of the Ganges. The Aghoris path to enlightenment can sound gruesome. They worship the Devi, follow Tantric Rites, conduct their prayers at midnight and eat even dead bodies. The Aghori we met was from Tiruchi and he was training a few more – he seemed down to earth and spoke well. The tent was full of skulls and as we were speaking one of the disciples dropped something in the fire – the Aghori explained that was the heart of a Pig which they had sacrificed yesterday and this would form their next meal with rice soaked in the blood of the pig. Each one has his own way to get to Nirvana – clearly this is not my way and I walked out educated and aware of the Aghoris.

The morning was still foggy and it was admirable on how the boatman could get us to Panch Ganga Ghat. The water of the Ganges was surprisingly warm and clean and our guide asked us to cleanse ourselves with the holy water before we headed to the next set of temples.

It’s a steep climb from the Panch Ganga Ghat and we headed to the Kal Bhairav temple.

This is one of the oldest Shiva temples in Varanasi, India. Situated in Bharonath, this temple has great historical and cultural importance in Hinduism. The temple is dedicated to one of the fiercest forms of Lord Shiva and wears a garland of skulls and carries a club of peacock feathers. The word “Kaal” means both “death” and “fate”. It is believed that even death is afraid of “Kaal Bhairava”.

A quick darshan here – again it was empty and nice. By now we were famished and thoroughly enjoyed our breakfast of Hot Jalebis and Kachoris freshly made. (Madhu Jalpan , Keshyam Kanhaiya Chitra Madndali Bas Phatak)

By now it was almost 945 AM and we took a Battery Auto to our hotel for a 15 min rest and to pick up the address for our next destination – the revered Sage – Lahiri Mahasya house. He was the saint who was initiated by Babaji to Kriya Yoga in 1861 at Dunagiri and his family still maintains that tradition. ( 31/158 Madanura Lane, Garudeshwar Mohalla, Chowsatti Ghat)

Lahiri Mahasaya’s house is quiet and empty and is a great place to sit quietly and meditate. Lots of energy here.

Right next to this is a small guest house – Shivakashi Guest House. Very affordable.

Morning was dedicated to visiting Ashrams so from here we headed to the Kabir Mutt ( en -route picking up some Bhang from an authorized Bhang Shop) – a calm and quiet place.

Next stop was the Silk Weavers market or Muslin Market. A great place to understand how the famous Benarasi Silk sarees are made and also to get some great deals.

By now it was noon and we headed to Annapoorna for lunch (J12/16A, Ram Katora) . We had covered a lot of ground since 5 AM – but we still had a few more things to cover which was planned for the last phase.

A trip to the famous BHU – that was on the other side of the city and took us a good 1 hr to get there by Auto. The university is beautiful, green and clean – very well maintained. Right in the heart of the campus is a lovely Birla Temple. We had chai and tried out a very sweet local dish called “Lavang Lata” – it was really sweet.

We could have walked the 3.5 Km from here to the Main Gate or Lanka – but we preferred to take an Auto and headed to the famous Sankat Mochan Temple. Famous recently for the bomb blast from 2011 – because of which there is more security and you need to leave your cell phone / bags etc at the entrance) – This is a Hanuman Temple – the only Non Shiva / Non Devi temple we visited.

And then on the way back to the Hotel the last stop was at the Adi Shakti Durga temple.

We reached our room by 5 PM – and as we summarized with Manoj what we had covered there was a sense of joy that we accomplished a lot in almost 24 hrs.

All this would have not been possible without Manoj. You cannot do Varanasi without a Guide and if you are planning a trip give a call to Manoj Yadav at + 91 9935956290. He was a godsend. I had initially booked Varanasi Tours – they were charging Rs 1600/- person for a 3 hr walking tour. We would have paid double and not covered even half of what Manoj showed us with the Varanasi tours. I am so glad that they cancelled in the last minute and I was able to connect with Manoj by pure luck.

A nice warm shower and then we strolled out to ” Kshir Sagar” the most famous sweet shop of Benares to sample a few . On the way back stopped by a local Pan shop and picked up a few ” Original Benarasi pan” and headed back to the hotel for a simple dinner. We slept like a log that night.

Day – 3 : We start at 630 AM

The last day was dedicated to Sarnath. About 20 km from our hotel. The driver was there promptly by 6 and we headed out on a very foggy morning with visibility less than 20 feet. On the way stopping by for a simple meal of Kachuri & Jalebi ( Cost us Rs 75 for 3 people). We are at Sarnath before 745 AM.

Sarnath is a Village – its green and quiet. No hustle & bustle of Varanasi. This is where the enlightened Gautama gave his 1st sermon to his 5 disciples. There is a main temple built by the royal family of Ceylon at this spot. The place also has a pipal tree similar to the one at Bodh Gaya.

Right adjacent to this is the Sarnath Stupa – a massive structure of solid bricks and rock with a lot of carving. This was built by Ashoka and this complex was excavate in the early 1900’s and renovated by ASI. Its in excellent shape – large gardens , very calm and quiet , very well maintained. The same complex also had the Ashoka Chakra which is now housed in a. well maintained museum next door.

Sit down in a. corner and go back 2500 years to visualise the splendour of this place. This is not Mythology this is History.

The Thai’s, Japans, Nepalese, Burmese , Sri Lankan Governments have also built a few beautiful temples in Sarnath and they are worth a visit. Especially the Thai and Japanese ones and the Bajra Vidya temple. The Thai temple has a 180 feet Buddha statue – the tallest in India.

And the Japanese temple which is made of wood

Next to the Sarnath Stupa and the main temple is a Digambara Jain temple dedicated to the 11th Jain Tirthankara and thats definitely worth a visit.

You can complete all this and the Museum comfortable by 11AM and head back to the Airport. Most people stay at Varanasi and drive to Sarnath as its so close. We were back in Benares by 12 noon for a rushed lunch at the Taj Vivanta at Cantonment (All the big hotels Taj / Radisson etc are located in the Cantonment area which is a good 7 – 8 kms from the Ghats) and made it to the airport just in time at 115 to catch our 2.15 PM back to Bangalore.

We reached at 2.45 on Saturday and the return flight was on time – in 47 hrs we had covered a lot of ground and there was a sense of satisfaction – Mission Accomplished. It was great to have my Brother In law for company and I hope we can do more of these in the years to come.

Other Points to Note

Best time to travel is Nov or Feb / March ( Dec / Jan can be very foggy and cold, and summers can be very hot, during the rains the river swells up massively)
At the Kashi Vishwanath temple there is a 630 PM Saptarishi Arti – which is supposedly great – try attending it, we couldn’t
We hunted for some classical program, Quawali / Mehfil etc – unfortunately none of that exists. So beyond temple hopping , street food and walking – entertainment options are limited
Its a friendly and warm city and the people are nice – though the dialect is rough and tough. We found the place safe.
Trivia – how did the name Varanasi emerge from Kashi & BenaresTraditional etymology links “Varanasi” to the names of two Ganges tributaries forming the city’s borders: Varuna, still flowing in northern Varanasi, and Assi, today a small stream in the southern part of the city, near Assi Ghat. The old city is located on the north shores of the Ganges, bounded by Varuna and Assi.In the Rigveda, an ancient Indian sacred collection of Vedic Sanskrit hymns, the city is referred to as Kāśī (Kashi) from the Sanskrit verbal root kaś- “to shine”, making Varanasi known as “City of Light”,[6] the “luminous city as an eminent seat of learning”.[7] The name was also used by pilgrims dating from Buddha’s days.

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Kumaon Nov 2016 – Part 2 (Mystical Dunagiri – Full of energy)

26 Nov

Dunagiri – Mystical, Rustic , Charming & Energizing

Tucked deep in the Kumaon – Dunagiri is a small hamlet far far away. Its picture perfect – and thankfully not exploited by Tourism. It took me 3 1/2 hrs to reach Dunagiri from Binsar. (Dunagiri to Kathgodam is 4 1/2 – 5 hr drive 125 km). The roads are winding , empty, with great panoramic views. Its lonely and nice.

I first heard about Dunagiri in the book “Apprentice to a Himalayan Master” by Sri M and later in “Autobiography of a Yogi” By Paramhans Yogananda. For some strange reason the name stuck and I have been interested in visiting.

This is where Mahaavatar Babaji had initiated Lahiri Mahasaya to Kriya Yoga almost 150 years back. And a lot of Babaji followers came to Dunagiri to visit the caves where the initiation happened.

But there is more to Dunagiri than the Babaji Caves. There is a lot of Mythology associated with the place. According to the local tradition the town has been regularly visited by sages who established their ashrams here in the midst of nature. The Ashram of Garg Muni (Brother of Dronacharya) was at Dunagiri. After his samadhi he became an underground river “Gagas” which is the source of many rivers in that area. Dronacharya is also supposed to have meditated for many years here.

Sukhdev Muni’s (Son of Ved Vyasa) was born enlightened . The “Sukha Devi Temple” is built at the site of his original ashram . Bharata the son of Shakuntala was supposedly born at this ashram. Hanumans quest for the Sanjeevini brought him to Dunagiri and the hills here are supposedly full of herbs and plants with magical healing powers. The Panadavas also spent a part of their time here in Agyatwas at a place called “Pandava Kholi”.

Dunagiri is home to an ancient Durga temple. The priest and an Old Naga baba I met at this temple told me that this temple is from the Treta Yuga and has phenomenal energy. This is the seat of Durga Ma. Like Vaishno Devi there are two “Pindis” that are “Swayambu’s” and the neighbouring forests are full of Leopards – the Devi’s vehicle. It is believed that the Divine mother has 9 forms – some for knowledge, wealth , health etc – but the Dunagiri Devi is considered to be the Godess of the Yogis.

Folklore says that over 1000’s of years many have come to Dunagiri to visit the Durga Devi Temple and meditate. The Naga baba said that he has experienced Hanuman , Kripacharya, Ashwatamma and many more immortal souls visit the temple – he says “ you can’t identify them but their energy can be experienced”. Even Shankaracharya visited the temple. The Naga baba also mischievously smiled and said that below the goddess was hidden “Amrit” and he was trying to figure out how to lay his hands on it. The temple is very clean and well managed – maybe I was lucky it was almost empty.

At the temple I was lucky to get Darshan of “Baba Dhanvantari Giri or “Bhatkoti Baba”. A solider from the Indo Pak war – he left it all to become a Naga Sadhu. And the brief interaction I had with him was very powerful. I wish I could have spent more time with him.

How does this translate to a common man. Whats the experience you get.

I am a layman – but I could experience the vibrations and energy at Dunagiri – there is so much energy that it is difficult to meditate. For some strange reason I was waking up at 3 AM every day without an alarm – and the Resort owner told me that was common.You need less sleep and food. The rarefied air at 8000 feet , the positive energy of so many great souls , the flora and fauna – it feels like you are the door step of heaven.

Two other must visit places are the “Babaji Caves” and “Pandav Kholi”. Babaji Caves is a nice 45 min trek while “Pandava Kholi” is a steeper 90 min trek (Both one way). The trek is thru dense forests – totally empty and desolate – in spite of being a Capricorn mountain goat I struggled.

Babaji Caves is deep – the driver cum guide told me that his grandfather had walked 2 ½ kilometres deep inside the cave. But currently its closed at the tip and you see less than 25 feet of the cave. The place is serene and I was lucky to have it to myself for an hr.

Legend has it that “Pandav Kholi” is the place where the Pandavas spent some time during their Agyatwas period. Its located at 8800 feet. The car drops you at a point nearly 6200 feet and then you start the steep 3 km trek. When you reach the top – you are treated to some amazing views and a simple lunch at the Ashram. This is the ashram of “ Balwant Giri Maharaj “of the Juna Akhada – who attained Samadhi many years back – but his “Dhuni” is still kept active. “Bhatkoti Baba” who I met at the temple was his disciple.

The 3^rd place to visit is “ Manasa Devi “ Temple . This is a day trek – I could not make it – but was told that the views enroute are beautiful.

The 4^th place is “Sukh Muni Ashram “ and the “Sukha Devi” temple. This is the place where Sukh Dev Muni had meditated. This is a short 1 km trek from the resort where I was staying

I stayed at the Dunagiri Retreat. It’s very rustic and spartan. Think of it as an high end Ashram.

Basic rooms, hot water, simple veg food. Nothing fancy – but functional – it works. The rooms are designed with local architecture – thick walls with mud that keeps the room warm. The bathrooms are large, wood flooring , bright and spacious. Western style toilet and 24 hrs water supply. In all 14 rooms spread across a vast expanse. The Retreat also has a Pyramid for Yoga and meditation – and it accentuates the already strong energy at Dunagiri.

The landscape is wild and when you first reach you may be disappointed on how unkempt and disorganized the place is. I felt that if “Monika from Friends” was here she would have got really busy.

This is like an Ashram – lot of time for self discovery – there is no room service, no TV, patchy Internet at the main building, 3 G in some places. But somehow time moves on quickly – I never felt bored across the 3 nights I spent here.

There is reliable electricity supply – but when the current goes occasionally – its blackout – No generators. No water lines – so everything is conserved from rain water – so use water sparingly.

Dunagiri Retreat is unique. I have been to many places – but none like this. It does attract a certain audience. It’s the base for many Retreats thru the year that include….Chi Gong by Pragata (http://pragata.org – Coming up in April 2017), Yoga Camps by Claire Kerrigan & Jane Craggs and even a Sufi retreat by Nirupam Ryan. Followers of Babaji and those wanting to visit the Devi temple.

Its not a family holiday with a fire place and music. Its a spiritual enclave. Its a taste of heaven.

The food served is simple, nutrition and very tasty. Fresh and juicy “Muli’s” , Spinach , potatoes plucked from the kitchen garden and served piping hot. Its so tasty – and filling. Even the water packed with minerals is rejuvenating. Milk is so sweet you don’t need to add sugar to your tea and coffee.

The owner Piyush Kumar is a semi mystic – a MNR Allahabad (REC) engineer from 1986, who went to the US and worked at the World Bank. Came back set up his own Software firm in India and then left it all to settle down in this hills. His partner Kate is a Phd in Vedic Astrology. She is spot on with the stars and her predictions. She can be contacted at http://www.Drkatyjane.com or katy@drkatyjane.com.

It’s a large property – spread across 25 + acres and is in the midst of the forest.Wild animals frequently visit the jungles nearby and at times even the property. Every morning I opened the door – peeping out quietly hoping that leopard would be siting there.

As in the hills the flora and fauna is full of medicinal herbs. There are amazing views you can get of the Sunrise and the Sunset. There is peace and quiet , tranquility and a strange sense of affection develops to this place. I liked it.

Piyush the semi mystic owner told me that this is the only place in the world where the “Ashta Vargha” a group of 8 rare herbs grow together. The locals believe that the power of the mythical Sanjeevini is still grounded here. Many cancer patients have had miraculous recoveries just by living here for some time. If you are a believer in energy and its healing power then this is the place to be.

I asked them whats the common thread that connects the people who come to Dunagiri. Its people looking to connecting the dots, people on different phases of their spiritual journey. Anyone who visits here finds direction , finds tremendous inner peace.

And yes in 3 days I was feeling lighter and at peace. I wonder what ten days would have done.

And as I drove down and reached Delhi & Bangalore over the next 24 years – I felt that its us who have created Hell out of this beautiful planet. Nature has bestowed us with fresh air , rivers , mountains – that is Heaven , and we have created a hell called “Metro cities” out of them. All across the hamlet of Dunagiri I did not spot a doctor or clinic – life is tough , winters are cold , but Mother Nature takes care of you. The locals are happy and contended.

I pray that this heaven on earth stays as it is and I get an opportunity to come back again and again.

http://www.dunagiri.com

Piyush Contact : + 91 98102 67719

Driver Madhusdan : +91 97569 30090

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Tags: Dunagiri, Dunagiri activities, Dunagiri Retreat, Energy in Dunagiri, Things to do in Dunagiri, Where is Dunagiri, Where to stay in Dunagiri

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Categories Short Breaks, Travel

Kumaon – Nov 2016 (Part – 1 Mary Budden Binsar)

25 Nov

Uttarakhand is truly Gods own land. So much of natural beauty – and thank God its still rustic & natural. The state can be split into two broad areas – Garhwal ( Rishikesh & Upwards – Uttar Kashi / Gangotri / Kedarnath / Badrinath) & Kumaon – Nainital / Almora / Raniket / Binsar / Dunagiri..

Garhwal with its famous 4 Dham Pilgrimage route is more crowded. Its easily accessible from Dehradun and there are multiple flights from Delhi to Jolly Grant. Kumaon is accessible from Kathgodam – the last railway junction before the hills.

This was my 7th trip to this beautiful state. Mary Budden Cottage was on my bucket list for long – so when we were planning an all boys getaway in the hills – it was an easy choice.

Getting there

Getting to the Mary Budden property from Bangalore was a 24 hr journey – Flight to Delhi, the night train from Old Delhi (Jaisalmer – Raniket Expresss leaves at 1030 PM and arrives at 530 AM) and then a 4 hr drive to the property in Binsar (110 Kms). We consciously took the night train so that we could be at the property by 10 AM Vs the Shatabadi which would have got us in only by 3.30 – 4 PM thereby losing a precious day. Old Delhi Railways station is a mess – and if you are a lady travelling alone think twice before taking this night train. One can also drive from Delhi to Binsar – but thats a 9 – 10 hr long drive. The drive from Kathgodam is great – excellent road – no U Turn and pin bends. Considering that we do Bangalore Mysore 135 Km in 4 hrs – this 4 hr journey was a breeze.

Geo Highlights & when its best to visit

The property is at an altitude of 2100 metres ( ~ 7000 feet , most Hill stations Ooty, Darjeeling, Simla, Mussoorie are at 7000 feet) and is deep inside the Binsar wildlife sanctuary. After you cross the sanctuary entrance you drive nearly 12 km to get to the estate. Roads are great all the way from Kathgodam – just the last few kms inside the sanctuary are dirt roads. The sanctuary is 47 sq km , dense evergreen forest – mainly Oak, Pinewood and Rhododendron. Animals that inhabit these forests are Leopards, Wild Boar, Barking deers, Mountain Goats , Porcupines etc.

Best Time to visit is Spring – March end / April – thats when the Rhododendron trees are in full bloom making the forest a carpet of pink and red. May / June is also a good time when the apple orchards and fruit farms in nearby Ramgarh are ready for plucking. July / Aug / Sep is Rainy season – best to avoid. Oct / Nov is again a great time to visit. Dec / Jan can be very cold with over 5 feet of snow. Its mid Nov when we visited and it was sub zero at night and early morning – we needed 4 layers. Snows from Mid Dec – at times till early March. Feb is a bad time to visit – its dark / gloomy / cloudy and rains.

About the Property

There are two properties – the main one which is the Mary Budden estate and a second one that is unique – The Daler Village homestay

The main property is spread across five acres, on the slope of a hill, facing a large verdant valley. Its one of the 5 estates inside the Binsar Wildlife sanctuary. All these estates date back to the British era and post the formation of the sanctuary no new real estate development is allowed. The property has a 100 year+ history and Mary Budden a missionary was the last British resident. The current management took it over in 1990 and it has been offered as a home stay to guests for the last 6 years.

The minute I walked in I could sense energy balance. Its Rustic, Serene and peaceful. You can hear the sound of silence. and yes there is Crisp Fresh air …..

There are two cottages – the Heritage Cottage which is originally over 100 years old but extensively renovated and the contemporary Rhododendron Cottage that was built recently. Each Cottage has a dining, front room and 3 bedrooms. We picked the Heritage cottage – it seemed more homely and cosy and was perfect for the 3 of us. The Rhododendron cottage rooms are bigger and there is more sunlight – but you may miss history and nostalgia. Its a trade off and we went for Heritage. There is also a beautiful Suite right next to the library below the Rhododendron Cottage. In all 7 rooms – and we were lucky – we had the whole place to ourselves.

The designs are rustic, lovely fireplace, cozy furniture, nice big open verandahs, lots of books and pictures lining the walls. Very British – except for the stiff upper lip and the butter scones.

The 5 acres are well designed – with enough open spaces. So you can have breakfast in a corner, take the steps down for lunch in another, watch the sunrise from one place and the sunset from another and gaze at the sky filled with stars. Lots of places where you can huddle around a fire. The sunrise and the sunset are a sight to watch – don’t miss it. And this is one place where you can actually see a zillion stars sparkling in the sky. Thats mesmerising – a star studded sky each with so many planets – and they say we can see less than 1% of the stars in our galaxy with the naked eye. The vastness of the Universe , Infinity can be visualised when you sit quietly and stare at the sky and the sparkling stars. And thats a great antidote to melt the ego that we build over the years.

The food is delectable and the service is outstanding. Indian, Kumaoni, Continental – the Chef and his team churn out a wide variety of very tasty food that is served with class. Ensure that you ask for one Kumaoni meal – Lai Ki Sabji , Bhat Ki Dal , Kumaoni Aloo, Kumaoni Raita , Kumaoni Chicken , Ragi Ki Roti with Gur (That was a surprise – I thought Ragi Mudda was a Karnataka staple). Most of the food is sourced from the hills and is fresh. They also grow some herbs and veggies in the property.

Deep inside the Forest – there is no electricity or water connection – so everything is designed in a environment friendly manner. Solar power and rain water harvesting takes care of most of the needs. A generator is a backup. Solar power works fine and the water we got for our bath was boiling hot. But conserve electricity and water when you come here.

The Daler Village Home stay is unique and I strongly recommend you plan a one night stay here. It has two rooms that are beautifully designed. Great views and total Soulitude. No Internet , No TV , Just greenery and peace. You get fresh veg food cooked as per your choice.

How to keep yourself busy

Start by watching the sunrise and do some Yoga in the verandah. Have breakfast and you are ready to step out at 9 AM. There are a few lovely treks that the property organises

A short trek to a temple nearby – 1 hr
Zero Point Trek for great views of the snow capped mountains – Nanda Devi , Trishul , Nanda Kot, & Pancha Chuli – 2 Hrs
Myoli Walk – 21/2 Hrs
Daler Village Walk – 4 Hrs ( Combination of Walk / Drive and Time at the sister property in the village)

You can do a day trip to Jageshwar – leave at 9 and be back by 430. Jageshwar houses a 1000 year cluster of 125 Shiva Temples including the 8th Jyotirlinga. On the way you can stop by the Ramkrishna ashram and visit the Chitai temple. On the way from Kathgodam to the property you will cross the Neem Karoli Baba ashram at Kainchi – so that can be visited while coming or returning. Munsiyari is about 120 Km from here – and thats a base if you want to serious trekking and climbing. The Sanctuary has no jeep rides etc to spot animals – the only way to explore is by foot. And you need to be a brave soul to do that.

The Cottages have a lot of books board games and there is a Library with a TV and TataSky (No TV in the room). There is no intercom – so ring a nice hand bell if you need assistance.

This is a getaway that is perfect for three nights – Two at the main property and one at the Daler Village . They allow kids but I am not sure how much they will enjoy – unless they are evolved kids who love nature and books. If you are coming with kids come as two families and take an entire cottage. You can also go birdwatching and spot over 250 species of birds – best seen again in March / April.

Other Points

They have Wi Fi that works 90% of the time and the bandwidth is good, 3G signal is active.
Rates are inclusive of all Meals / Tea / Pakodas etc
Cottages can accommodate 2 families with 2 kids each , they don’t rent out the third room if two rooms are booked.
Wooden flooring can be slippery so don’t walk in your socks.
You conserve water so take bath in buckets – don’t forget your toothpastes etc – the nearest shop is a long way away.
If you love dogs great – they have two lovely dogs. The younger one is very affectionate and will always like to be near you.
Don’t expect a Spa & a Gym here – this is all about being with Nature
Food is great – but they don’t serve liquor – so get your own stuff.

In Conclusion

I have been many to off beat properties – thats slowly becoming my expensive hobby (Check out my blog A Few Good places – https://atomic-temporary-14030268.wpcomstaging.com/2016/01/24/a-few-good-places/) – and this is high up in the list in term of experience & service.

Places like this are run on passion and not for commercial benefits. Managing a property like this deep inside a forest totally cut off requires a lot of effort – and running this efficiently is kudos to the owner, the manager and the full team. Its classy and it is expensive ( ~ 350 $ / Night) – but when on a holiday you want everything to be perfect as you are building memories for life.

The occupancy is low – and its mainly foreigners. Maybe the owners should not call it a Home Stay as that conjures images of a few rooms in a property where the owner lives. This is designed like a cottage but is professionally run like an up market exclusive boutique resort. We stayed at a Home Stay in Vermont many years back – Sleepy Hollow, and there are many Home Stays in Coorg – clearly Mary Budden does not qualify to the traditional definition of a Home Stay. Even the next stay at Dunagiri would qualify close to a Home Stay (More of that in the next blog)

Mary Budden has been on my bucket list for a few years and it has exceeded expectations. We came as a group of three friends and I am sure that I will be back here with my family soon.

My friends left for home with the promise that we would do this once every year in offbeat properties like Mary Budden but I continued my Himalayan journey going deeper into Kumaon – to mystical Dunagiri ( 4 Hr drive from Binsar) . More of that in the next blog.

Contact Details

http://www.marybuddenestate.in

http://www.dalarvillagehomestay.in

Sheetal – Manager / Mountaineer / Trek Guide / Host Par Excellence : +91 9711171350

Car pick up at Kathgodam : Madhusudan + 91 97569 30090

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Tags: A few good places in Kumaon, Binsar Home Stay, Daler Home stay, Himalayan getaways, Luxury Home stay in Binsar, Mary Budden, MaryBudden, Offbeat win Kumaon

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Categories Short Breaks, Travel

Taj Coorg @Madikeri – Embedded in Nature

12 Oct

When I start writing a blog the Title comes naturally – the Title represents in a few words the essence of what I carried back from the trip , but this time I struggled – there is so much to talk about at the Taj Coorg its difficult to capture it in a few words . This is both good and bad – good because there is so much to talk about and not so good because its missing its core positioning.

Coorg has transformed – 8 years back when I made my first trip to Club Mahindra the drive time was 4 1/2 hrs and the notable resorts were Orange County & Club Mahindra – today the drive time from Bangalore is 6 – 7 hrs and there are many more properties and home stays that have mushroomed. With all the crowd you tend to stay away from the town and the sights outside and prefer staying in a resort – for that the Taj is a great property.

The property at Madikeri is embedded in greenery. Its a 180 acre property (built up area of 30 acres) at an elevation of ~ 4500 feet on a lush verdant rainforest valley. The design is harmonious with nature and from every where – the lobby , restaurant , rooms you get an unobstructed view of the green , misty valley and the hills beyond.

The property has 63 spacious rooms in 4 varieties (Superior Charm, Deluxe Delight , Premium Indulgence Cottage , 5 Pool Villas and the Presidential Suite) – We stayed at the Premium Indulgence Cottage – a well laid out 1400 sft room that could easily accommodate 2 adults and 2 children. Room rates are from 18 – 35 K / night inclusive of breakfast.

The Main Lobby is an impressive building that rises above 200 feet , built in a simplistic Zen Design it has an aura of great energy balance . Its open, large, spacious and has an excellent view of the valley.

This main complex houses the plunge pool , a small activity centre , the well designed Jiva Spa that offers a wide variety of treatment including some that are very local (Gudda Bath) and a well equipped Gym. The plunge pool is a big hit – its a heated pool with a mind boggling view of the rain forests and hills – and the kids never want to leave its premise.

Rooms are designed along the hill slope so a walk up to the main lobby / restaurant can be a tad tiring – but the electrical buggy service is always around to pick you up. The pavements / foot paths are concrete , well finished and have the stamp of perfection – so no fear of slipping on rocks and rubble as you walk up & down.

The best things to do here is soak in the nature and go for long treks. The hotel organises two good treks to the nearby hills – easy 2 hr treks. Our guide Abhishek was exceptional – very knowledgeable and friendly. The highlight was our discussion on the Kurunji Flower – the rare blue flower that blooms once in 12 years and covers the hill slopes ( that why the Nilgiris are called the Blue Mountains) – its famous in Munnar but close to the Taj the hills we trekked are also full of Kurunji Flowers – so Sep 15 – Oct 15 , 2018 you may want to book a package at the Taj Right now.

(And if you are wondering whats the khaki covering on our shoes – those are cloth flaps for leech protection)

The restaurant is multi cuisine – serves a wide variety of dishes form India, to Local , Continental – there are 4 restaurants FernTree , Nelliki (Local Cuisine), Grill (Outdoor BBQ) , Dew a Small health Food Cafe and the Hive Bar – but we ended up going to the main one Fern Tree most of the time. Service & Food is good and dinner for a family of 4 is about INR 200o – INR 3000 (Without Liquor)

They have a few more activities – Sat evening Local Dance, Mountain Biking , Zip Lining , a well maintained but small conservatory, Pottery Studio , Baking & art classes for Kids , Archery , Virtual Golf …. A large olympic size outdoor pool , an amphitheater for holding functions / marriages. 3G Network is available all across the property and Wi Fi at decent speed is also complimentary.

Unlike most properties in Coorg & Chickamagalur the Taj is not a coffee estate, Its not a Spa /Yoga Retreat like Ananda or Shreyas or Swaswara, Its not a honeymoon Corporate Offsite location like Tamara – so the question – What is it ?

And thats the question I carry back with me – is the Taj Coorg becoming an upmarket Club Mahindra catering to the weekend family traffic from Bangalore – that would be sad and not doing justice to a property of this stature. Are noisy kids spoiling the peace and the harmony of the place ? Can you enjoy the divine view from the plunge pool when you have a few brats noisily tossing the ball around. Can you have a relaxed romantic candlelight dinner or a peaceful breakfast with a howling baby in the next table and a hassled mother desperate to calm it as the husband is busily taking photos.

We went on the Dushera weekend and the hotel was full – barring one Foreign Couple the entire crowd was Bangalore families with 1 – 2 kids each. I would urge the Taj to revisit their positioning and decide what is the clientele they would like to attract. Many properties today have a Kids above 12 only rule – maybe the Taj should explore something like that.

Running a property like this in the hills is not easy and the staff , the general manager do a great job …. but I would like to leave them with a few suggestions

Entertainment every evening – Live entertainment like light music , a Sat evening local dance is good but you need something 7 days
Nelliki needs something more than authentic local cuisine – its looking empty
You need more restaurant space
Too late but would have been good for the rooms to have been designed with a His / Her basin and a Powder room – with large rooms that can accommodate 4 , you need more bathroom space
The Treks could be longer
Yoga session starting at 8AM is a no go – I normally attend Yoga sessions in all the properties that I visit but missed it out here – I don’t think you are attracting people who will do Yoga at 6 AM – also with such an amazing property the Yoga sessions needs to be done outside in the midst of nature – not in a closed room
I think you are underpriced – there are high end Homestay’s in Chickamagalur and Binsar that charge over 20 K / Night ( Primrose, Mary Buden estate etc) – yes its true that money does not buy class , but for a property of this stature if you want to target the right audience you need to relook at your rates.

As the friendly GM said – maybe I should come back when its not so crowded on a weekday , and I definitely will. Having been to Club Mahindra, Orange County, Windflower and now the Taj – I would strongly say that when it comes to the beauty of the property and the rooms – the Taj is the best in Coorg.

Few More Snaps

Tags: How far is Taj Coorg from Bangalore, Taj Coorg, Taj Coorg Embedded in Nature, Taj Medikeri

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Categories Short Breaks, Travel

A Few Good Places ….Over 100 amazing Resorts & Homestay across India

24 Jan

This is a rare list of the most unique offbeat resorts, villas and home-stays across India. I have travelled to many of them over the years. The common link to all these is Exotic, Nature and Serenity. So make the most of the long weekends in 2021 and plan your holidays now. Finding a good property is the first big step towards a great holiday.

The Blog Lists

A Review of all the places I have visited in the last 10 years
A list of amazing properties that are in my list to visit, segregated by regions – South, North, East & West

A woman wades in the pool of the Ganga Pool Villa at Ananda in the Himalayas, The Palace Estate, Narendra Nagar, Tehri Garhwal, Uttarakhand, India. The Ganga Pool Villa is a one-bedroom private villa with its own infinity pool.

A Few Good Places we have visited in the last few years

Sai Radha Heritage – Near Udupi. A simple, comfortable, affordable on the beach resort near Udupi. https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2021/04/15/on-the-beach-homely-resort-sai-radha-heritage-udupi/
IBNII – A wonderful Eco Conscious Luxury resort designed beautifully, Coorg, https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2020/12/03/ibnii-coorg-a-jewel-in-the-crown/
Gitanjali – A beautiful homestay in Mysore, that’s the perfect place to explore Mysore or stopover Enroute to Coorg / Waynad / Ooty / Kabini ….https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2020/11/30/gitanjali-a-warm-cozy-homestay-mysore/
Al Sisar Haveli – Jaipur , Treat yourself to the exquisitely indulgent moments and regal charm with the majestic mansion of the Thakurs of Alsisar at Alsisar Haveli- the heritage hotel in Jaipur. https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2020/03/17/gali-gali-jaipur-exploring-the-heart-of-jaipurin-2-1-2-days/
Punjabiyat – A Beautiful homestay in the midst of rural Punjab, Hoshiarpur Near Amritsar – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2019/04/11/experience-punjabiyat-the-essence-of-punjab-in-4-days/
Himalaica – A luxury serene home at 9000 feet near Nainital – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2019/10/09/himalaica-calm-serene-meditative-luxury-home-stay-in-kumaon/
Kolavara Heritage – A beautiful homestay close to Sringeri & Agumbe, https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2018/03/05/discovering-kolavara-heritage-and-the-sights-enroute/
Briar Tea Estates – Tea Bungalows set in the midst of nowhere amidst Tea Gardens at Meghamalai, Valparai & Munnar https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2019/01/10/offbeat-locations-meghamalai-near-madurai/
Baevu Village – Experience nature and Village atmosphere at a place that is less than 100 km from Bangalore https://vak1969.wordpress.com/tag/baevu-village/
Kurunji – A Lovely British Bungalow Home stay in Kodaikanal – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2017/12/07/kurunji-estates-lovely-home-stay-in-kodaikanal/
Mary Budden Estate, The only colonial Bungalow in the heart of Binsar reserve forest (Luxury Homestay) https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2016/11/25/kumaon-nov-2016-part-1-mary-budden-binsar/
Dunagiri Retreat – A small rustic homestay far far away in Kumaon, https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2016/11/26/kumaon-nov-2016-part-2-mystical-dunagiri-full-of-energy/
Shreyas – Bangalore’s best kept secret, a place for self discovery Shreyas, One of the 12 Luxury Relais & Chateaux properties in India – (https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2015/07/02/shreyas-retreat-bangalores-best-kept-secret/)
Enjoy the greenery and sprawling suites at Taj Coorg – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2016/10/12/taj-coorg-madikeri-embedded-in-nature/
A rustic enchanting boutique place by the river, Soulitude by the Riverside – Near Kathgodam http://www.soulitude.in/rustic-soulitude-river/
Perched at 9500 feet , a small boutique hotel with amazing views of the snow clad mountains, Soulitude in the Himalayas – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2014/12/29/himalayan-soulitude-in-december/
Ananda Spa, Rishikesh – India most well known Luxury Spa – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2014/07/20/anandam-at-ananda/
A nice small place facing a lake amidst coffee plantations, Flameback – Chickamagalur https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2014/02/10/flameback-lodges-a-lovely-getaway-in-mudigere-chickamagalur/
A picture perfect homestay in a coffee estate, Primrose Villa – Chickamagalur https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2015/09/28/primrose-villa-luxury-homestay-in-chickamagalur/
A class by itself, Evolve (Orange County) Coorg – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2014/05/27/orange-county-coorg/
A beautiful property on the steep slopes of a hill, Tamara Coorg – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2015/05/18/tamara-coorg-a-critical-appreciation/
Kovalam, Niramaya Beach Resort, One of the 12 Luxury Relais & Chateaux properties in India, https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2015/10/20/niraamaya-resorts-a-hidden-jewel-in-kovalam-near-trivandrum/
A nice farm stay with horse rides and fishing far far away from both at Avalanche, Destiny Farms – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/tag/destiny-farms/
A Rustic hill resort, Elephant valley – Kodai, https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2012/12/30/elephant-valley-kodai/
Sprawling Suites by the Sea – Dunes, Pondicherry – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2012/10/25/2nd-leg-pondicherry-the-amazing-dunes-resort/
A Cozy retreat by a river and sea, Wild Woods – Near Udupi – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/tag/wild-woods-spa/
The Park Hyatt South Goa, Needs no introduction – https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2012/11/16/goa-the-park-hyatt-lush-green-luxury/
A Beautiful nature retreat with a gushing stream, Vythri Wayanad – http://www.vythiriresort.com/wayanad.html
A hidden beauty, Neeleshwar Hermitage, Kasargod – http://www.neeleshwarhermitage.com
Dar Es Salam, Srinagar, perfect Villa on the banks of the Dal lake, http://hoteldaressalam.com, https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2013/04/16/kashmir-holiday/
Indecco Swamimalai – The perfect place to stay and explore Kumbakonam, https://vak1969.wordpress.com/2012/02/17/kumbakonam-tanjore-3-day-trip/

And the places I want to visit …

South

Rivemist Resorts, about 70 Km from Chickmagalur near Hornadu is a rare treat in the lush green of W Ghats ~ 4950 feet above MSL. The greatest + of this wonderful nature retreat is the waterfall and the Netravati river that flows through the resort ground – https://rivermistresorts.com
On the banks of the Kabini, a small boutique resort to experience the beauty of the jungles in African styled tented accommodation, The Bison Resort – https://thebisonresort.com
The Evolve group is a class beyond compare for luxury & service, Evolve (Orange County) – Kabini
Among this amalgamation of waterways and forests lies Red Earth Kabini. An unpretentious resort located on the backwaters of the Kabini Dam, Red Earth http://www.redearthkabini.in
Villa Urvinkhan is a unique concept of creating a luxury resort with the warmth of a home, Chickamagalur – http://www.villaurvinkhan.com
A warm and comfortable home stay located in the foothills of Mullayangiri with Fertile stretch of iron enriched soil ideal for coffee cultivation. This house is located in the middle of lush green coffee plantation, Hence the name Thotadhahalli means estate village in kannada.- http://www.thotadahalli.com
Budget Friendly homestay on the banks of the Bhadra river, Shanti Kunj – https://shanthikunnj.com
A Newly opened resort at Chickamagalur, Java Rain resorts http://www.javarainresorts.com
A scenic beauty by the river, Meriyanda Nature Lodge Coorg – http://www.meriyanda.com
An authentic Coorg Homestay , Gowri Nivas (Luxury Homestay), http://www.gowrinivas.com
Coorg Wilderness Resort – At Coorg Wilderness Resort we bring you to the very doorstep of nature, offering a rare opportunity to be part of the wild, yet with every possible comfort and luxury. https://www.coorgwildernessresort.in
Nestled in a lush and thriving coffee plantation, Old Kent Estates takes one back to the period of the British Raj. and is surrounded by a large English garden and acres of plantation and woodlands – Coorg, www.oldkentestate.com
On the Vembanad lake, a 2 hr drive from Ernakulam, Kumarakom lake resort – http://www.kumarakomlakeresort.in
Experience harmony with nature at the Spice Tree Resorts – Munnar http://spicetreemunnar.com
Tranquil is run with the efficiency of a resort but with the personalized touch of your hosts – Tranquil Waynad (Luxury Homestay), https://www.tranquilresort.com
Milton Abbott Estate is a quintessential late-19th century British colonial estate bungalow with an old world charm perfect for a laidback holiday – Ooty, https://www.saffronstays.com/view/milton-abbot-estate-a-private-1865-vintage-heritage-bungalow-estate-by-the-ooty-golf-course-TI7tLWKUqiCdam6m
Tamara Kodai – Set high in the hills of Kodaikanal, The Tamara Kodai provides a luxury, heritage experience unlike any other. This picturesque hotel dates back to the 1840s. The building itself was originally called Baynes Bungalow owned by British District Judge, Mr. Baynes. https://www.thetamara.com/kodaikanal-resort/
Chidambaram Vilas – Recreates an authentic experience of the luxurious Chettinad lifestyles of the last century, through a heritage Chettiar palace that preserves 108 years of history http://www.chidambaravilas.com
The Bangla – A heritage hotel in the heart of Chettinad. http://www.thebangala.com
Saratha Vilas, built by a wealthy Tamil merchant in the early 1900s, is a prime example of the luxurious mansions unique to the heritage of the Chettinad region. The 34500 sq. ft. property, including buildings, courtyards and gardens, has been painstakingly restored, and converted into a ten-bedroom boutique hotel by two French architects passionate about the preservation of Chettinad and its history, https://sarathavilas.com
Palai De Mahe – An address in the French Quarter with a distinct colonial stamp.Palais de Mahe lies close to the sea side promenade, barely 50 metres from the cool breezes and gentle rumblings of the Bay of Bengal.
This signature hotel – with its majestic courtyard, deep verandahs, attractive pillars and period furniture – combines south Indian fire and flavor with French intensity and fervor to bring you an experience that is in every way unforgettable.An address in the French Quarter with a distinct colonial stamp. Palais de Mahe lies close to the sea side promenade, barely 50 metres from the cool breezes and gentle rumblings of the Bay of Bengal. This signature hotel – with its majestic courtyard, deep verandahs, attractive pillars and period furniture – combines south Indian fire and flavor with French intensity and fervor to bring you an experience that is in every way unforgettable.https://www.cghearth.com/palais-de-mahe
Maison Perumal – A Franco-Tamil heritage in Pondicherry. Maison Perumal is a period bungalow that we had the privilege to turn into a distinguished boutique hotel. Located in the Tamil quarter of Pondicherry, this 18th-century house exudes a legacy that reflects the French colonial aura of this small seaside town. https://www.cghearth.com/maison-perumal
CGH Earth Properties – has amazing properties across South India in multiple cities, mostly in Kerala https://www.cghearth.com

North

A beautiful mountain getaway by the river – Keiths Cottage is a rare find which I am keen to visit soon. Keith’s has been build around the simplicity of nature and the joys of our childhood. The freshness of air, the run by the brook, the chirping of birds, the fruits & vegetables that grew in the backyard, the songs that stole our heart or just watching the wide sky with an empty mind. Not to forget the sumptuous organic home cooked food. Life was always meant to be simple and we hope to bring back some of those memories to everyone who visit us.https://keithscottages.com.
8,825 feet above sea level in the Pir Panjal range of the Himalayas, stands a world-class resort that captures the beauty of its pristine setting. With majestic views of the Affarwat Peaks, The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa is spread over 7 acres of a sylvan coniferous forest https://www.khyberhotels.com
Itmenaan Estate is a fairytale getaway in a peaceful rural setting in the Kumaon Himalayas. http://www.itmenaanlodges.com
Vana almost seems a contradiction – a forest touching it on one side, and nestled between the city of Dehradun and the hill station of Mussoorie. Vana Retreat – Adults only (Vana Retreats | Wellness | Wellbeing), https://vana.co.in
Located on the fringes of protected Sal forests West of Dehradun, nestled in 23 acres, in quiet environs with nothing but Nature as company is Vishranti, A Doon Valley Resort & Spa.
Vishranti Resorts (Vishranti Resorts and Spa in Dehradun | Luxury Farm Stay) – https://vishrantiresorts.com/en/
Sophisticated luxury and simplicity far far away in a remote Kumaon Village – Leti 360, https://www.shaktihimalaya.com/kumaon.php
Samode Safari Lodge, Bandhavgarh National Park, one of the best places to spot a Tiger, https://www.samode.com/safarilodge/
An oasis of tranquility in the desert, The Serai, Near Jaisalmer, One of the 12 Luxury Relais & Chateaux properties in India, https://www.relaischateaux.com/us/india/serai-rajasthan-jaisalmer
Tree of Life resort & spa – Jaipur, https://www.treeofliferesorts.com/jaipur/

East

Rajbari Bawali – Explore the charm of a royal Zamindar household in Kolkata, https://www.therajbari.com
Sikkim Village Walks, Shakti Himalaya, a property that also owns Shakti Himalayas Leti 360 in Kumaon – https://www.shaktihimalaya.com/sikkim.php
Glenburn is a heavenly little plantation retreat that lies on a hillock above the banks of the River Rungeet, high in the Himalayas, overlooked by the mighty Kanchenjunga mountain range. Its a 100 year old property. Glenburn Tea Estate Darjeeling – http://www.glenburnteaestate.com
Mayfair Palm Beach, The best place to stay and explore Bhubaneshwar, Puri and Konark. https://www.mayfairhotels.com/mayfair-gopalpur/
Balakhana – Stay in a stately early 19th century French villa. The architectural heirloom of a distinguished Bengali Zamindari family, who still live there on a 16 acre estate. https://www.balakhana.com
Itachuna Rajbari, A taste of Royalty. http://www.itachunarajbari.com
Jhargram Palace – the current residence of the Malla Dev Royal family. It is a structure combining the Italian and Islamic architecture model. About 10 rooms on the ground floor have been converted into a Heritage Hotel run by the family. Set in carefully laid lawns and gardens which was built in 1922 CE. http://www.jhargrampalace.com

West & Central

Luxury Forest Resorts. Pugdundee Safaris is recognized as one of India’s leading responsible safari companies. With six intimate jungle lodges in Central India and many bespoke wilderness experiences it presents the very best of the Indian subcontinent wildlife & hospitality. https://www.pugdundeesafaris.com
Tree House resort near Lonawala , Machan – https://www.themachan.com
Ahilya Fort Hotel – MP, In the year 2000, Prince Richard Holkar, thedescendant and son of the last Maharaja of Indore, converted his home in Ahilya Wada into a guest residence, today known around the world as the Ahilya Fort Hotel. https://ahilyafort.com
Ayurveda and Yoga on the beach. SwaSwara means your inner voice and true to its name, this is a place of natural harmony to release, refocus and recalibrate the self. Swaswara Gokarna. https://www.cghearth.com/swaswara
https://www.tajhotels.com/en-in/taj-safaris/ – Wild Life safari , Luxury
Atmantan – Luxury health and wellness resort at Mulshi , near Lonawala – https://www.atmantan.com

A Few Good websites

7 Stunning resorts in North & North East – https://homegrown.co.in/article/39123/7-stunning-eco-resorts-in-north-north-east-india-for-the-environmentally-conscious-traveller
The 12 Luxury Relais & Chateaux properties in India, https://www.relaischateaux.com/us/destinations/asia/india
https://www.i-escape.com (A good website for offbeat Resorts in India & Abroad)
http://www.cntraveller.in/story/10-secret-homestays-himalayas/
15 Boutique Himalayan Getaways http://goindia.about.com/od/wheretostay/tp/Himalayan-Village-Getaways.htm
16 Offbeat Hotels in India – http://www.scoopwhoop.com/inothernews/indianoffbeathotels/
https://www.saffronstays.com – Boutique homestay and luxury villas across India
Small Resorts & Homestay’s around Nainital – http://www.nivalink.com/hotels-recommend/small-resorts-and-homestays-in-kumaon
Offbeat Places near Bangalore – http://traveltriangle.com/blog/offbeat-places-near-bangalore/
http://www.royalmysorewalks.com

Tags: Great Off beat Resorts in India, Luxury offbeat Resorts, Luxury Resorts in India, Offbeat Resorts in India, Where to travel - best list

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Categories Longer Breaks, Short Breaks, Top Slider, Travel

Niraamaya Resorts – A Hidden Jewel in Kovalam (Near Trivandrum)

20 Oct

ll Sarve Bhavatu Sukhina
Sarve Santu Niraamaya
Sarve Bhadrani Pashyantu
Ma Kaschit Dukhabhagbhaved ll

means …. let all be happy, let all be healthy, let all be safe, let the sorrow not come in the life…

Thats a good summary of what the Niraamaya Resort at Kovalam promises and delivers. Great things don’t need marketing – Niraamaya conceptualised and designed by a German doctor has been around for 20+ years mainly catering to European clientele. Recently (6 years back) it was acquired by Jupiter Investments (Rajeev Chandrasekaran) – and it was purely by chance that I came to know of it while at Shreyas glancing at the exclusive list of Relais & Chateau properties in india. The minutes I saw their website I knew I had to visit this place. Its old construction but constant renovation makes it look new.

A Relais & Châteaux property (and there are a handful of them in India) Niraamaya Surya Samudra is a enchanting property on a cliff side with a spectacular view of the Arabian sea. What makes it unique are its two pristine beach fronts that are secluded and as good as private. its serene, calm and has great energy balance.

The property boasts of 33 rooms & villas spread over ~ 12 acres of lush greenery. 13 Rock garden rooms (Set amidst greenery – no Sea View, but you can hear the rumbling sea) and 20 sea facing Villas in varying shapes and sizes (Heritage Classic, Banyan Tree Bungalow, Heritage Premium , Octagonal Presidential Suite) with rates varying from Rs 12,500 – Rs 30,000 / night. Rooms are perfect for 2 adults and a child and the rates are inclusive of Breakfast , Wi Fi, airport pick up & drop. (Rates are dynamic and tend to get higher in peak season). Well landscaped gardens, nice manicured coblestone walkways, rustic statues and figurines, hammocks swaying in the breeze, coconut tree – it feels heavenly and you can see the eye for detail in every small thing

Picture taken at 6 AM – at sunrise

You can start your day with Yoga , feeling the breeze and hearing the thundering waves – its a wonderful experience. Niraamaya is not a Yoga retreat like Ananda / Shreyas – they do have 30 min group classes in the evening at 5.30 PM , but most sessions are 1 : 1 paid basis appointments.

The Spa infrastructure is outstanding and was recently rated the best in the country. They offer a wide variety of treatments – a 90 min session with well trained therapists and a wow ambience can cost you ~ Rs 5000. I liked the total package – the massage was good but not the best I have had.

The property has a main restaurant, a speciality restaurant and a small bar – all overlook the sea. the quality of food is diverse – Indian, Continental, Kerala specialities. (We are Veg – but I am told that Sea Food is their speciality) The staff are wonderful, the food quality is excellent, service is fast and the rates are reasonable (Family of 4 veg dinner ~ Rs 2500) – the highlight is the level of customisation that they are always ready to do. The people who run the restaurant come with great pedigree – the manager comes with experience in Oberoi & ITC while the Chef has international experience from Miami and has recently authored a culinary book. (The Restaurant is open air, no AC and I wonder how they will accommodate people if they are sold out, also they need to combine their multiple menu’s into one booklet – too many sheets of paper to shuffle)

Some of the rare herbs for cooking come from the Organic garden – its small but does have a nice collection of Organic plants. walking in its midst you can breathe health and vitality – and I always took the extra 100 m to walk past the Organic garden to reach my room.

Every evening there is a wonderful cultural program at the restaurant from 730 – 830 PM. we were entrained to some wonderful Kuchipudi, Veena, Flute and Kathakali performance during our stay.

A small but efficient Gym, a lovely pool (quiet deep, as it is made from a scooped out rock) and a small conference room that can cater to 20 people are the other amenities in the resort. Rooms are large and come with a TV/ Cable Connection. Wi Fi is free across the property but is patchy , so is the phone signal – which is good. They have room service from 7 AM. (Only challenge with the room we were in – The cane Sofa is not comfortable and the Mattress / Bed is not Ortho – so a bit challenging for a restful sleep)

With all this in the resort you would not want to step out – but if you do you have a few options

The famous Padmanabha Swami temple dedicated to lord Vishnu is 30 min away – they have strict dress codes , its supposedly the richest temple in the world now, don’t expect much on Spirituality, but yes a strong dose of Traditional Beliefs – the temple is well laid out and is not as crowded as Guruvayur or Tirupathi.

There are a few other temples worth visiting including one dedicated to Parashurama (Mythology says that Kerala was created from Parashurama’s axe) and a temple of a 100 Ganeshas that is run by the Indian Army. Poovar is close by – 20 min drive and thats where you can take a boat ride in the backwaters. On your boat ride you can spot a fruit that looks exactly like a Mango – its called Mangova, a highly poisonous fruit – one fruit can spell the death knell for a 100 people.

Close to Poovar is a Elephant Riding / bathing spot. Kovalam is also a stones throw away – but with the beach at the resort you don’t want to visit a public beach. I am told that a few nurseries / Orchid gardens are also close by. (Mon is a holiday in Kerala – so please plan your holiday accordingly)

Trivandrum is a small well maintained green city, the airport is efficient and the streets and roads are in great shape. Not much to see in the city barring a visit to the small museum and the zoo if one is inclined.

Kanyakumari is only 80 km away – it is a one track road and took us nearly 2 hrs (we started at 7 AM). You can cover by 4 PM the famous Suchindram temple, Vivekananda Rock and the Kanyakumari temple and the Travancore Kings palace and be back in Trivandrum by 430 PM.

The Suchindram temple is unique in the whole of India in that it is dedicated to three different deities represented by one image in the sanctum and is called Sthanumalayan (Sthanu-Shiva; Maal-Vishnu and Ayan-Brahma) kovil. The temple is rich in sculpture and architecture and a visitor to this temple is amply rewarded with the sight of such exquisite art of hundreds of years old. Fortunately the temples were not crowded and we got excellent darshan in a few minutes.

Vivekananda Rock – the spot where Swami Vivekananda meditated in what he called ” the last bit of Indian rock” for 3 days – the monument is well maintained and its a short 10 min boat ride. Regular tickets are Rs 34 but VIP tickets at Rs 169 gets you fast access to the boat ride.

The Padmanabha Palace of the Travancore Maharaja is in TN but maintained by the Kerala Government. Its one of the largest wooden palaces in the world and is well maintained. Palace + antique museum budget for 45 min.

Given that Trivandrum is just a 1 hr flight from Bangalore – would strongly recommend this trip. Indigo has a 9 AM flight that gets you into the resort by 11 AM. The departure timing are also convenient as the Indigo flight leaves Trivandrum for Bangalore at 4.55 PM. A 3 day trip is good – but we stayed for 4 days in October – the rains are almost over – so the landscape is lush green. It is very humid and the temp is 30+ , needless to say the best time to visit is Nov / Dec / Jan.

Website : http://www.niraamaya.in – they have another property in Thekkady that is supposedly equally interesting with only 6 exclusive Villas – I am adding that to my list.

Some more Views of the Property – all photos shot on my iPhone 6

Tags: 3 days in Trivandrum, Amazing Resort in Kovalam, Family Resort in Trivandrum, Niraamaya, Niraamaya retreat, Plan your holiday in Trivandrum

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Categories Short Breaks, Travel

Primrose Villa – Luxury homestay in Chickamagalur

28 Sep

Tucked away amidst 500 acres of verdant greenery and surrounded by mystical hills shrouded in fog, in the Northern part of Chickamagalur is the wonderful new Home Stay – Primrose Villa.

The word home stay normally connotes basic and frugal – Primrose Villa is contrarian – its probably the only Home Stay which on luxury and service can put a 7 Star hotel to shame.

The property is spread across 5 Acres and is part of the 500 Acres Bagane Hedol Coffee Plantation. The Vision behind Primrose Villa is Sumitra who belongs to the 5th generation of the family running the plantation. And she has designed a place that is regal , ethnic and yet classy and contemporary. The family may well find its name in the Forbes list of Karnataka – but the ambience here is down to earth, humble, the level of service is very warm and customised and is personally led by Sumitra who has an immaculate eye for perfection. (The family has S Indian Iyengar roots – thats where the level of hospitality and simplicity comes from)

PS : Don’t miss the Raja Ravi Varma painting below which I sam sitting with the gracious and wonderful hostess Sumitra

The property has 7 Villas and 5 rooms. The rooms are part of the main building but the Villas are spread out and designed in a manner that it provides 100% privacy. Each Villa is set on 1/2 Acre land , is very spacious and has its own sit out and private garden. The rooms are smaller and best suited for couples.

The food is delectable – and you can choose from a wide variety – Indian , Malnad , Veg , Non Veg , Continental …. and the highlight is its 24 by 7 availability. You can have breakfast at 11AM and Lunch at 5PM (My bengali friends make note – this suits your timing perfectly) – and its all served fresh and customised. The Rava Dosa is outstanding, so are the Paneer Tikkas, the Phulkas are fresh and fluffy and the Chocolate cake is delicious. My friends devoured the boneless chicken and Fish with gusto – on taste, aesthetics and prompt service its 10/10 on food – this is one place where you should not plan to be on a diet. Most of the ingredients come from their family farm – and thats what makes it so fresh and tasty.

The property is located at 4700 feet and grows some of the finest Arabica coffee in the country (Coffee grown above 3500 feet is considered Premium). This part of Chickamagalur receives over 100 inches of rain in the monsoon, thats what makes the greenery lush and thick. The Bhadra wild life sanctuary is just a 40 min drive away and the greenery from the estate melts into that of the sanctuary – so be prepared for the occasional wild boar or the rare pug marks of a tiger in your morning trek. The roof of the property is the perfect place to star gaze and immerse yourself in the hills and forests that surround you for miles. The air is fresh and nippy. In the morning the forests and hills are cloaked in mist, which very soon turn to a bright blue sky and by the time its dusk you see a riot of colors blending in the skyline.

Its calm and quiet and the perfect break for the common man or for celebrities and we were pleasantly surprised to meet S Janaki the legendary singer spending a few days at Primrose.

Activities in the Property are limited to treks, reading books from a well stocked library, watching TV, playing Carrom / Board Games in the common room. Horse riding is available from Oct and a pool room / entertainment room is coming up soon. Thats a lot for a home stay.

The location of the property is excellent and there is a lot to see close by. Mullayangiri the tallest peak of Karnataka at 6300 feet is a mere 30 min drive away ( The last stretch of the drive is tough – so have a good powerful vechile)

Further away on the same route are the Buttermilk falls and Baba Budangiri Caves. The former is a must visit but you can skip the latter. The drive down this stretch is beautiful and will bring memories of the Scottish highlands and William Wordsworth.

Lots of waterfalls, treks, lakes to see nearby. Belur, Halebidu, Shravanabelagola are best covered while driving from Bangalore or on the return. Most people miss out on the Belavadi temple – another must visit. If you have time you can visit Sringeri & Agumbe a 2 – 3 hrs drive on the picturesque W Ghat. A 2- 3 day trip is what you must plan for at Primrose.

Other Basic facts

Drive time from Bangalore is 5 hrs (with a 30 min break) Roads are excellent
Connectivity is patchy and there are few corners where you can get good strong signal.
There are no TV’s in the individual villas & room , but there is a TV in the meeting / conference room which can house 8 – 10 people

Primriose Villa was recently featured on the Conde Nast as the 50 best new properties in the world. For more details visit them at

http://www.primrosevillas.com

Bangalore Contact for Booking : + 91 9880932423, kb@primrosevillas.com

We were here to celebrate 5 years in my current company with my team – we loved it . The highlight of the place is the quality of service and the warm touch of homeliness – when we were leaving they packed us a sandwich bag and water – just like relatives do. We joked that the only thing missing was the customary Coconut and Kumkum – and maybe they will give that if the wives are in tow – thats why I am planning a return with my family very soon.

Thanks Sumitra and team for a memorable trip

Tags: Best Home Stay in Chickamagalur, Best Resort in Chickamagalur, Primrose Villas

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Categories Short Breaks, Travel

Shreyas Retreat – Bangalore’s best kept secret

2 Jul

About 50 Km and 90 Min drive away from the chaos,mad rush, choked potholed roads of Bangalore lies a bit of paradise. Shreyas Retreat is an amazing 25 acre property located at Nelamangala on the Tumkur road. (You will have the last mile problem in locating it – so keep the phone number handy to call. Google Maps identifies the place but does not work)

I am always on the lookout for these unique classy nature resorts and I am surprised that Shreyas has never come up in any search or has been mentioned by anyone till date – like they say the worlds best things are not advertised. It was purely by chance after I had made my booking at Ananda that I came to know of this place from a Yoga Instructor at my gym – one look at the website and I cancelled Ananda – No Regrets.

Shreyas is a sprawling property spread across 25 acres. Its verdant and green, well maintained, lots of trees , a touch of rustiness – its natural and alive. The minute you walk in and spend a few minutes you realise that this place has the right energy balance – its just perfect.

It has only 12 rooms – 8 garden cottages , 3 pool side rooms and a 3 Bedroom cottage. The rooms are large, airy, lots of sunlight – the bathroom is large and extends to a nice open courtyard (Hot water 24 by 7) . The Decor was to my liking – classy and rustic (not glitzy and overdone like the palace of the maharaja of Eyesore). The Garden Cottages have a nice verandah. Rooms have AC / Fan / Wi Fi / Good Lighting / Kettle / A Safe / Nice study Table / Decent Storage – No TV.

Its a Yoga retreat and they have two Yoga Halls – an outdoor open hall and an indoor one that doubles up as a meditation hall / meeting room – They also have meditation huts in a few other places. The unique thing – they conduct Yoga and chanting sessions even for their staff – lucky staff !

The group yoga sessions happen at 6.30 AM and at 4 PM – the quality of the Yoga Teachers is outstanding and the practise is very energising. I started my day at 4.30 AM with meditation till 6.15 and then did the group session from 6.30 to 8.10 AM – all those twists, stretches and Surya Namaskars – I was famished for breakfast. And I was not dissapointed

Food is pure Veg (No Eggs) – very healthy and tasty – served in style. This is the type of healthy breakfast you must have every day. Lunch and dinner is also simple and homely – here is a sample menu of what I was served for dinner. All the food is freshly prepared , can be customised and is very very tasty. Also not that there is no liquor served , and consumption is also not allowed. Food is served for breakfast , lunch . dinner – set menu. No room service – no restaurant where you can order for Chai and Pakoda at 4 on a rainy day.

The Spa is small but very well maintained and offers both Swedish and Ayurvedic therapies. Its calm and serene and the breeze wafting through the bamboo curtains ads to the charm. The quality of therapists is best in class and its money well spent. Spa Therapies are not very cheap – a 60 min session can put you back by Rs 3600. But the good thing – the 60 min session actually stretches to 75 min or more.

Another well maintained WOW spot is the 3 acre organic garden – it grows a variety of fruits (Jackfruit, Mangoes, Chickoo, Custard Apple, Jamun, Sweet lime) many vegetables (Beans, Variety of Gourds, Brinjal, Okra, Papaya and Spinach) and lots of herbs (Basil, Mint, Rosemary, Lemon Grass, Brahmi, Triphala, Borage etc) – I love natural farms and spent a long time in this place

Adding to the rustic element is the sound of a Train chugging away once every 2 hrs – the rail track is not very far away and this adds to the charm of a holiday.

What else – well a few more things

1. A nice cobbled stone pathway / track around the property for long walks or jogs

2. A beautiful swimming pool and a Jacuzzi

3. An Open air amphi theatre and a movie auditorium – very well stocked with DVD’s

4. A Small conference room that can host 20

5. A well stocked Library

6. Wi Fi that works across the Resort – Excellent 3G network also

7. Its plastic free – so no Bisleri bottles

8. Pets not allowed ( Thats sad – I am sure the dogs cooped up in apartments would have loved the nature and open spaces as much as us)

Which brings me to the question that many may ask – Are children allowed ?

Unfortunately the answer is YES – you come to a place like Shreyas to unwind and connect with yourself. To Recharge and find out answers to some basic questions. Its best to come alone or with a close friend / spouse / soulmate.

I say unfortunately – because although Kids are allowed they may not have much to keep themselves busy. And the last thing you want in a property like this are pesky brats shouting and demanding attention. So if your family is a highly evolved one and your kids enjoy soulitude and can manage without TV and a stream of activities – please do come over – else figure out an alternative solution.

So who is the ideal Target Audience – I met a few people – a lady from Turkey who is here for 17 days , and another lady who is here on her fourth trip. Thats the target audience – people who want to spend time with nature , be on their own and enjoy nature, healthy food and world class hospitality. Its not a family destination – not a weekend binge party for your 40th birthday

Not advertised but the place is pretty busy most of the time – I was lucky. The weather was perfect – no rains – only 3 occupants including me. The service was perfect. Really am not able to think of a single thing that was not perfect – everything happened on time, service was soft, warm and classy all through my stay.

Will I come back – yes I will definitely come back – the cost is steep and it does pinch to pay $ 300/night (Inclusive of all food / yoga sessions etc) – but thats the price mankind will have to pay for having messed up with nature. Two nights in Shreyas can make you feel fresh and energised – no wonder the rishis in the himalaya by the sacred rivers become so evolved – living all their lives in this setting – nature , soulitude and less people – thats what you pay for – and sadly we seem to be hunting for these spots and recreating them in enclaves after spoiling them on mother earth. Its worth having a debate on what man has achieved in the last 50 years – is it a boon or a curse.

One more thing (As Steve Jobs always said in his memorable presentations) – Shreyas is owned by a NRI Business Magnate but is managed by Relais & Chateaux – this is a global hospitality company that runs some amazing resorts across the world. The standard they deliver is outstanding – and I am sure the experience they deliver will be too.

Here is a list of the other properties they have in India / Sri Lanka & Maldives – I have not been to any – but I now have a list to get working on.

Shakti 360 Leti – Uttrakhand
Samode Safari Lodge – MP
The Serai – Jaisalmer
Mihir Garh – Rajasthan
Sher Bagh – Rajasthan
The Malabar House – Kerala
Niraamaya Surya Samudra – Kerala
Purity – Kerala
Soneva Fushi – Maldives
Ceylon Tea Trails – Sri Lanka
Cape Welligama – Sri Lanka

Some More Photos

Front room of the 3 bedroom Cottage

Dinner Table by the poolside

Lilies and more greenery

Toasted bed with Scrambled Tofu – tastes like Bhurjee – must try at home

A small neat temple in the premises of Shreyas

A Nice wooden sculpture of Rama – Sita – Hanuman , Has Thai features

The Movie auditorium

A sample day at Shreyas

Tags: Great place to recharge Bangalore, Shreyas, Yoga Resort in Bangalore, Yoga Retreat Bangalore

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Categories Short Breaks, Travel

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