Explore Rudraprayag from Ukhimath

6 Apr

The Himalayas are always inviting. Increasingly peak crowds and dense traffic is spoiling the sanctity of this divine haven. While most make a mad rush during the 4 Dham season, I wanted to explore an offbeat trail that included energised temples and nature at its best – during the empty season. This is a unique trip that I have curated – so read on and plan for it soon.

What is the Best Time to Travel

All hell breaks loose in Garhwal when the 4 Dham Yatra starts. This year its starting around April 20th. (Opens at Akshay Trithiya and closes on Bhai Duj, a few days after Diwali). I would recommend April 1st week, basically March 25th – April 10th. Its not cold, a pleasant 12 – 25 Degrees, the rains / snow are over. Spring is in the air. Most schools in the country are having their exams – the hills are empty and freshly open. Oct 15 – Nov 15 is another option but its very cold.

Why choose Ukhimath as a base

Rather than change locations every few days, I suggest make a base. I made Ukhimath my base. This is a nice town in Rudraparayag district at a distance of 175 Km from Rishikesh, about 5 – 6 hrs drive (Leave at 8.30 reach by 2.30 – including a lunch stopover) Ukhimath (4250 feet) is located on the Kedar Badri route and there are many interesting places you can access easily as day trips from here. Ukhimath is also home to an ancient Temple – the Omkareshwar temple.

Does Ukhimath have a good place to stay

Yes – probably the best hotel in the hills. The Regenta Madhuganga is an excellent property. It has 76 rooms in different combinations (Double, Family, Suite). Great location with balcony views of the Kedar mountain range (Ask for Superior Rooms with Mountain view). Excellent Pure Veg food (No Eggs / No Liquor), and great service. When your book a room choose the Breakfast & Dinner included option (Mobile – 9068688875, email – reservations.rruk@royalorchidhotels.com)

Help me plan my trip from here

This plan is based on my recent visit to Ukhimath (March 29th – April 4th : 2026) from Bangalore.

Day 0, Sunday : Bangalore to Dehradun – Night stay at Rishikesh

Day 1, Monday : After Breakfast – head to Ukhimath. Enroute cross Devprayag, Rudraprayag and reach Ukhimath by 2 PM after lunch on the way and Check in.

Day 1, Monday Evening – Visit the Omkareshwar Temple at Ukhimath (3 Km from the hotel – 5 min drive, 15 min walk)

King Mandhata, an Ikshvaku dynasty ancestor of Lord Ram, is said to have performed penance here for 12 years standing on one leg to appease Lord Shiva. Pleased, Shiva appeared as ‘Omkar’ (sound), leading to the founding of the holy Omkareshwar Temple.

Ukhimath is the winter seat of Kedarnath: When Kedarnath Temple closes (Nov–Apr), the deity is brought here in a ceremonial procession and worshipped. Also associated with Madhyamaheshwar Temple (another Panch Kedar shrine), whose idol is also worshipped here in winter. Please note this is not one of the Panch Kedar temples. (Time to spend 1 Hr)

When I visited this ancient temple was empty. Try to attend the evening aarti around 6.30 PM and spend time in the highly energised space.

Day 2, Tuesday – Visit Gupt Kashi & Kalimath (14 Km from the hotel – 40 Min drive)

The Hotel serves breakfast at 7.30 AM so we were ready to leave at 8 AM. it was a bright day with blue skies and clear views of the Kedar Range. A short drive of less than 40 min and you cover the 14km distance to the ancient temple of Gupt Kashi. From the car park it is a 5 min walk .

As per legend this is where Lord Shiva hid from the Pandavas. The temple was empty and we could see the Shiva Lingam – it is shaped a little differently. There is also a shrine for Ardhanareshwar. Two underground streams with sweet clean water called Ganga Yamuna flow in front of the temple. carry empty bottles and fill it up. the Himalayan fresh water has magical properties. (Time to spend 45 Min – 1 Hr)

A short drive from Gupt Kashi along the gurgling Mandakini you will reach Kalimath. (13 Km – 35 Min) I stopped on the way and spent some time in the river sitting on the rocks. It was empty and nice. Sitting by a Himalayan river has a calming effect and is a great energiser. (Time to spend 30 Min). Video at end of the Blog

Kalimath is a Devi temple along the Mandakini – there is no statue. Devi is worshipped in an underground pit covered by a silver plate. Represents the formless energy (Similar to Kamakhya). Ma Kali is said to have defeated the asura Rakta Beeja and disappeared into the earth. The priest says this is one of the 108 Siddha Peethas. The temple has a connect with the Dhara Devi temple – Locals state that Devi’s body is worshipped and the head is worshipped at Dhara Devi. (Time to spend 30 Min)

We had completed all this by afternoon 1 and headed back to our hotel, reaching by 2.30. On the way back we had a simple lunch at a roadside eatery at Chunni village. You also have the option to visit the Ruch Mahadev temple – 6 Km from Kalimath + 1/2 Km trek.

That day evening – you can revisit Ukhimath temple or go for a scenic 1 hr drive towards Chopta.

Day 3, Wednesday – Trek to Deoria Taal (14 Km from the hotel – 40 Min drive)

Deoria Tal is a serene high-altitude lake (~2,438 m / ~8,000 ft) located near Ukhimath in the Garhwal Himalayas, accessible via a short and scenic 2.5 km trek from Sari Village (about 14 km by road from Ukhimath). It is renowned for its crystal-clear waters that perfectly reflect the majestic Chaukhamba Peaks, making it one of the most visually rewarding yet easy treks in Uttarakhand. Beyond its natural beauty, the lake holds mythological significance as the site associated with the Yaksha–Yudhishthira episode from the Mahabharata, giving it a spiritual dimension alongside its popularity for camping, photography, and peaceful Himalayan immersion.

I found the trek a bit steep. Its a continous climb – no level areas. We left our hotel at 8 AM – reached by 9 AM , started the trek at 9.10 and reached the summit by 10.20. Spent an hr there and were down by 12.15. Reached the hotel by 1.30 and had lunch at hotel. There is a 200 Rs per person ticket.

Evening – We headed back to the Ukhimath temple

Day 4, Thursday – Triyugi Narayan Temple (50 Km from the hotel – 3 Hr drive)

This took us 3 hrs (should be 2 hrs) since there was road work. Triyugi Narayan temple is close to Gauri Kund the starting point of the Kedarnath trek. Its also close to Sonprayag. From parking it is a short 5 min walk to the temple.

The temple is considered the site where Lord Shiva married Parvati. Vishnu acting as Parvati’s brother did the Kanyadaan and Brahma officiated as the priest. The holy fire is still kept alive across the three Yugas – hence the name Triyugi. The temple also has a few underground water Kunds. Lot of people come here to renew their marriage vows and even get married.

After spending 1 Hr at the temple we left at 12.15 and reached our hotel at 4 PM. Enroute we had lunch at a roadside eatery at Sumeru Village.

Day 5, Friday – Karthik Swami Temple (50 Km from the hotel – 2 Hr drive)

This was the most scenic drive. Small villages, nice mountain views, hardly any traffic enroute. We left at 8 AM and reached by 10.15 – started the trek and reached the temple at 10,000 feet at 11.15. Its an easy trek. Very scenic. This is the time of the year when these treks are supposed to be heavenly with the Rhododendron in full bloom – but this year the blooms are limited. Weather in the hills are changing and so is the flora and fauna.

Karthik Swamy temple is one of the rare temples dedicated to Lord Muruga in N India. After losing the race with Ganesha, Karthik is upset and offers his flesh to Parvati and comes here to offer his bones to Shiva. He then gets into a reflective mood in his subtle body and heads out to Palani to make that his final base. The statue here is made of marble / crystal – looks like bones. The temple is at 10,000 feet on a ledge and has a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains. We spent 45 min here and on the way back had lunch at a local shop, close to the temple peak. A relaxed journey back with some delay for road construction – we were back in the hotel by 5 PM.

Day 6, Saturday – Head back to Rishikesh

We check out and leave the hotel at 8 AM . On the way we stop by the ancient Auugstya Muni temple in the village called August Muni – 30 Min. We then stopped at Rudraprayag and walked down to the Sangam – it was quiet and nice. You can also visit the Umra Narayan and Koteshwar temple in Rudraprayag.

Lunch on the way, a stop at the Bengali sweet shop at Srinagar (Chauhan Bengali sweet shop in Srinagar, Pauri). It is located on the main Badrinath road. Pick up a few Uttarakhand delicacies to carry home. I suggest trying the Bal Mithai without the sugar balls on the top. Also, try the Singori (सिङ्गौड़ी) which is a delicacy from Uttarakhand made with Khoya. It is wrapped in a maalu leaf. It is akin to Kalakhand. We reached Rishikesh at 4 PM.

Few More Points

I had covered Tungnath in 2024 – so did not visit this time. But that is another nice trek – Tungnath is one of the Panch Kedar’s and at 14,200 feet the highest Shiva temple. It is a moderate trek – takes 2 hrs, but a very busy route. Its on the trek circuit and lot of trekkers go beyond Tungnath to Chandrashila for the views. So you could plan an extra day to cover Tungnath. This time of the year there will be snow in Tungnath. (Check my earlier blog on this https://vak1969.com/2024/10/06/essential-guide-to-your-himalayan-trip-badrinath-beyond/).

There is a place called Kali Shila close to Ukhimath , it is a short drive then a trek (Guide was saying maybe now car is allowed all the way) supposed to be an energised Devi Shrine – which has Her footprints. Few people visit – I missed this.

Madhmaheshwar (One of the Panch Kedars) is not far ~ 25 Km to the Ransi village from Ukhimath. But it involves an overnight trek from Ransi.

Anusiya Devi & Atri Ashram Temple is also a possible trek through thick jungles – but this would be a long 10 – 12 Hr day trip.

If you want to save time on the last day – from Karthik Swamy head to Rudraprayag and spend the night there. Karthik Swami is very close to Rudraprayag so you save almost 100 Km of driving if you head out from there Vs returning to Ukhimath.

I always have a guide. I travel solo – so the guide and driver are my companions. Hukum Singh is outstanding – contact him at 9690464301, 7579481621. he knows the hills like the back of his hand.

This is Hukum Singh holding a Rododendron flower.

Raghu Bisht was my driver. Nice person. You will see him in our Gupt Kashi photo. My trip was organised by Lakshman Ji a tour operator from Rishikesh. – 95960871691. He did a wonderful job. he was able to get my room at Regenta Madhuganga at a cheaper rate than the online rate + inclusive of dinner.

All along the route Network is excellent – restrooms are a challenge. Road quality since 2010 has not changed much. Food you get is simple Roti / Sabji / Dal in the roadside eateries. Regenta Inn has excellent food.

Rishikesh is a mess. Rafting crowd has created chaos – roads are jammed all the way from Shivpuri. Tapovan is the hub of youngsters – like Goa. My hotel was at Tapovan and it was a bit of panic to get to the airport.

When travelling to the hills always budget a day extra – and do not schedule your flight on the day you are driving back.

Weather was pleasant – full sleeve sweat shirts were sufficient. No heavy jackets, sweaters etc. (You may need for Tungnath)

Some of the videos of the Trip are getting uploaded in my YouTube channel (ohmanreadthegita) – here is one of them, please subscribe to the channel – there is a lot of interesting short videos and podcasts.

By the grace of God, this trip went smoothly. Having covered the sights around Alaknanda in 2024 and now the Mandakini belt in Rudraprayag, let me start exploring the Bhageerathi trail for 2027 from Harsil to Uttarkashi.

My Review of Nithin Sridhars book on Manusmriti

24 Mar

I have always wanted to get to understand firsthand what’s in the Manusmriti. It’s a text that is rarely read but frequently maligned. A topic that raises red flags and earns more brickbats than bouquets. So, when Nithin Sridhar informed me of his new book Chatuh Shloki – Manusmriti, I immediately got my copy.

Nithin is  a Director at the INDICA centre for Moksha studies. He has authored six books and is a frequent speaker on Vedanta and Hindu philosophy. Now Nithin is a  learned man. He goes deep into a topic – like a scientist he cross references and backs his statement with proof. This book is not a light read – and requires you sit with pen, pencil and highlighter to understand. For a common man this is a heavy read.

The book has received rare reviews from many scholars and seems to be an authoritative work on this subject. You can’t find many books on this topic.

The Manusmriti contains 12 chapters and 2685 verses. Nithin has focused on the first 4 verses and explained it in detail. One of the controversial parts of the Manusmriti is the section on the Varnas and Nithin has spent a lot of time explaining this lucidly. He references sections from the Gita and Rigveda to clarify that modern commentators have misinterpreted the meaning of the Varnas. The other controversy is around the role of women – the book does touch upon that also but in lesser detail.

I learnt a lot from the book, however I intend to get Nithin on my podcast to spell out clearly answers to a few more questions.

Who is Manu – why is he called Swayambhu Manu? Is he God or Man …. Is he the Adam of Hinduism. He got his knowledge from Brahma … so why are the great sages Marichi, Angirasa, Pulastaya, Vashishta, Bhrigu, Narada, Prachetas, Kratu …, great Brahmins coming to a Kshatriya King for knowledge on how to conduct life. Were they listening or was this a discussion where they formed a committee to debate and arrive at a set of guidelines. A modern women would ask – why was there no female representation in this committee.

Manusmriti – is not a constitution, it’s not a rule book – it is laying down conventions for society. Can Version 1 of Manusmriti written in the past be relevant today?   Somewhere in the book Nithin mentions that Dharma is sacred and we cannot question it – I want to dig deeper on this.

I am sharing some interesting points from the book.

Page 120

Adi Shankara while commenting on the Bhagavad Gita Verse 4.13 says that a Brahmana is a designation given to one who has a predominance of Sattva Guna. Kshatriya has both Sattva and Rajas – Rajas dominates. In Vaishya Rajas and Tamas exists – but Rajas dominates, Shudra is one in who Rajas and Tamas exist – but Tamas dominates. Thus, with the different combinations of the 3 Gunas the different Varnas with distinct qualities emerge. Manusmriti 1.87 notes that for protection of the universe each of the four Varnas have been given different dharmas to pursue.

Now comes the contentious part – Janma , Guna and Karma form the three-fold criteria for determining Varna with Janma constituting the primary criteria. And all three are dependent on a person’s Prarabdha Karma ( karma from previous life)

Page 131

Manusmriti does not posit an egalitarian socio-political order where everybody is equal, where everyone has equal rights, where there are no gaps between the haves and have nots or where everyone is happy. That is a utopian idea. Human reality is that no two persons are the same. Diversity is very core to how nature functions.

Page 132

Manusmriti is not a law book in the sense of a constitution that was despotically implemented by a ruler. It is not a biblical commandment. Nithin explains that it is a Pramana Shastra that reveals knowledge about Karma and Karma Phala. What actions lead to happiness and sorrow. What duties apply to whom. He makes a strong case these texts remain valid today as they did in the past. He adds – whether we approach these texts for knowledge or to caricature them is upto us.  

Page 147

Smritis are teachings based on Vedas and hence they are valid. Because Vedas came from God – they are the ultimate Truth.

Page 158

Manu was questioned by the great Sages. So this was not a one-way communication – it involved discussions.

Page 166

An interesting discussion on how the Varnas emerged from the sacrificial fire as explained in the Purusha Suktam (Rigveda)

Page 176

This is the debatable part in today’s era. Four conditions can be considered as necessary for classifying a person into a Varna.

  • Person must be born of marriage and not outside it
  • The marriage must be dharmically legitimate
  • Both parents must belong to the same varna
  • Mother at the time of marriage must be a virgin, excluding cases such as remarriage

So that explains why Karna was not a Kshatriya. But by this logic even the Pandavas were fathered by Yama, Vayu, Indra and the Ashwini Brothers – So how is it they continue to be regarded as Kshatriyas.

Page 185

Bhishma in response to a question tells Yudhishtra

For a Kshatriya and the others becoming a Brahmana is extremely difficult . That is the best state. If one is repeatedly and progressively cooked in the cycle of life one can be born as a Brahmana. Then Bhishma narrates the story of Matanga who was born a Chandala ( Shudra Father and Brahmana Mother) and wanted to attain through austerity the Brahmana status. Indira tells him that it is almost impossible inspite of all the austerities he may undertake.  Matanga realizing that it was well-nigh impossible requests a different boon to be celebrated as a deity of metre.

Page 196 – 198

How did Vishwamitra achieve the state of Brahmana when Matanga failed. An interesting story is narrated on how this was achieved

Page 204

Manusmriti 2.103 talks of varna as a ritual state and if the Brahmana does not perform the mandatory Japa of Savitri mantra, then he loses the ritual state. He is only a Brahmana by name.  This raises a lot of questions in today’s world.

Overall its an interesting topic to get educated on. And this is a well researched book. So do get your copy and read up. And very soon we will have Nithin on my Podcast to elaborate more on this topic

Old Age – Blessing or Curse

16 Feb

We are living longer … but are we prepared for old age?

In this episode of Back to Basics, Ram and Ramu share real experiences of senior living.

One stayed five years in one of India’s most admired senior citizens’ home at Coimbatore — and walked out.

The other weighs the pros and cons, and may choose it in his seventies.

A thoughtful conversation for those 60+, and for families planning the years ahead.

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How the Lalita Sahsranamam came to us

27 Jan

This is the story of the divine origin of the Lalita Sahasranamam.

The eight Vāk Devis, embodying the eight sacred facets of Goddess Saraswati, came together to compose this powerful and timeless hymn. Through the boundless grace of Lord Hayagriva, this divine knowledge was revealed to Sage Agastya, for the spiritual upliftment and welfare of all humanity.

This video reflects on the sacred story behind the Lalita Sahasranamam—its origin, its divine transmission, and its enduring spiritual significance. A gentle reminder of how wisdom, devotion, and grace flow together through the Mother’s thousand names.

How did the Vishnu Sahasranama come to us

27 Jan

Have you ever wondered who recorded the Vishnu Sahasranama and how this sacred hymn was preserved?

In the Mahabharata, Sage Ved Vyasa composed it, and Bhishma Pitamaha recited it on the battlefield, answering Yudhishthira’s questions on Dharma. It is believed that Sahadeva carefully recorded this divine narration, which was later passed down through tradition.

This powerful story and its significance were beautifully narrated by Maha Periyava, reminding us why the Vishnu Sahasranama holds such deep spiritual importance even today.

Wings Without Roots – Leadership | Values | Women

27 Jan

In the mad rush for growth and valuations, are building blocks like Values, Culture, Managerial Mentoring, and Strategic HR disintegrating. Why are there so few women CEOs and Entrepreneurs? What are the barriers to their development?

This edition of Back to Basics with Mythily Ramesh explores these issues. Based on her experience of over 35 years she provides deep insights on what is causing disharmony at work. She beautifully blends solutions with spirituality. Mythily is an alumnus of Guindy college of Engineering and IIM Ahmedabad. She has worked in leadership roles at Wipro and is currently the Co-Founder and Managing Director at NextWealth.

Video

Psychology | 80% Girls | Why

27 Jan

In recent years, Psychology has emerged as one of the most popular career choices, with colleges across India and globally reporting 80–90% female students in Psychology programs.

What is driving this strong trend? In this episode of Back to Basics, host V Anandkumar (VAK) speaks with Krittika and Ananya, Master’s students in Psychology, to explore the reasons behind the growing interest in Psychology—especially among women—and to break down what studying Psychology really involves. In this Podcast, we discuss:

  • Why girls are naturally drawn to Psychology as a career
  • Is Psychology a science or a liberal arts discipline?
  • How modern Psychology connects with ancient Eastern philosophy and Indian scriptures
  • Career roadmap after Psychology: degrees, specializations, and job options
  • Scope of Psychology in India and abroad

This episode is especially valuable for students, parents, and educators exploring career options in Psychology, understanding the gender gap in Psychology education, and learning about the future of Psychology as a profession.

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Avoiding Financial Mistakes: Insights for Young Investors

24 Dec

In this episode of Back to Basic’s we look at some of the simple tools that we can all use to build wealth. This is especially of importance to a young couple starting their financial journey. We look at the mistakes we made in our career and how the youngsters can avoid that.

Is it feasible for a young couple in urban India to aim for a corpus of ₹100 crore? What are the fundamental principles of investing? How can one discern clarity amidst the noise? Just as Arjuna required guidance from Krishna, how can an investor find a reliable wealth advisor? What is SIF ? Is there a crash coming – How do I plan for that ? What are the 3 Golden rules of a sensible investor?

In this edition of Back to Basics, Deepak Jain helps answer these questions in a simple manner. He emphasises on the power of Compounding and importance of Asset Allocation. Think long terms – the next 25 years a disciplined investor can make a lot of wealth riding on the growth story of India.

Highlights of podcast are in these time slots

5.55 – 8.04
11.14 – 12.12
21.41 – 23.28
32.05 – 34.06

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Gita : The Yoga of Life

1 Dec

In this episode of Back to Basics, Devanand Ji explains the synergy between Yoga and Gita. A certified Yoga Teacher from Bihar School of Yoga, Devanand Ji exemplifies a life guided by the Gita’s teachings. He touches on important practical points on how to apply the profound teachings in your day to day life. Please watch and benefit from his insightful perspectives.

If you want to start your journey with the Gita – get a copy of Oh Man! Read the Gita – A simple easy to read book by Sri Krishna.

Launch of Back To Basics – Podcast

25 Nov

This Blog started in 2010 and has had a great history with many million views and a loyal follower base. Over time viewers are reading less and seem to prefer watching Videos.

Along with the Blog I am happy to launch a Podcast Series called – Back To Basics.

Here we look at issues in our daily life with a sharp lens. We interact with Passionate, Committed, Truthful individuals from diverse backgrounds. We learn from them the secret of navigating life’s volatility – and how they have knowingly or un knowingly implemented the teachings of the Gita

In the 1st episode, we discuss with Dr. Sanjay Kaul, a leading periodontist, the fundamentals of oral health, emphasising the significance of gum care. The 30-minute conversation touches on the evolution of eating habits, traditional remedies, and interesting facts.

We have other interesting topics planned for the next set of Podcasts. These topics include Gita & Yoga, Old Age – Blessing or Curse, Building Wealth over the next 25 Years .. etc. The plan is to have one episode every fortnight.

Kindly Subscribe to the channel and shared your feedback on the 1st Podcast

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