Almost every Hindu child has heard the fascinating story of Lord Rama from their parents or grandparents. In 1987, Ramanand Sagar’s Ramayana was aired on Doordarshan. It became the most watched show in the world. City roads were empty. It felt like there was a curfew.
Set in the Treta Yuga the Ramayana is still relevant to all of us in our daily lives. Lord Rama is referred to as “Maryada Purushottam” which reflects his virtues of dignity & exemplary conduct. And Sita Ma is revered for her loyalty, devotion and sacrifice to her husband. She is considered the epitome of womanhood and is regarded as the ideal wife and mother.
In this Blog, I would like to focus beyond Rama & Sita on three key leanings from the Ramayana.
Hanuman’s Devotion (Bhakti) and Humility
Known for his unwavering devotion, boundless strength, and selfless service, Hanuman symbolizes the epitome of loyalty and devotion. Son of Vayu and a manifestation of Lord Shiva, Hanuman is considered to be immortal. The Hanuman Chalisa describes how Lord Hanuman possesses Ashta Siddhi. He can also bestow Ashta Siddhi to his devotees. All he wanted was to be eternally at the feet of his Lord and worship them. All his strength he attributed to the Lord. Just praying to him makes the impossible possible.
Asadhya Sadhaka Swamin Asadhyam Tawa Kim Vada Rama Doota Krupa Sindho Mat Karyam Sadhya Prabho
Lakshmana was a devoted brother. Nonetheless, when it comes to Bhakti & Humility, Hanuman Ji is the role model for humanity.
There are many paths in the Spiritual journey but the path of Bhakti and total surrender has always worked miracles.
This is what Lord Krishna also tells in Chapter – 12 (Bhakti Yoga) of the Bhagavad Gita
The Lord said: Those who fix their minds on Me and always engage in My devotion with steadfast faith. I consider them to be the best yogis.
Life is all about making the right Choice
Ravana was the grandson of the great sage Pulastaya. He was a respected scholar & an excellent ruler. An ardent Shiva Bhakt he was a Veena maestro. He has written books on astrology & medicine. He was loved by his subjects. Sadly all his greatness melted away because of the one wrong decision he made – to abduct Sita. His Ego stood in the way –
he was not ready to apologize and correct his wrong inspite of sane advice from many including his brother.
We see this in the Mahabharata also, how the great Karna suffered because of making the wrong choice.
Following the path of Adharma can wipe out the greatest of beings – Like it did to Ravana. This is the crucial learning for us.
The Value of Commitments
The third value that we can learn from the Ramayana is very important in the current age. The importance of honoring a commitment.
King Dasharatha honored a promise he had made to his queen many years back in the battlefield. It wreaked havoc on him and the kingdom, but the King honored his commitment. Lord Rama was an obedient son. He did not question his father. He fulfilled his commitment of 14 years in exile. Sita fulfilled her vows and marital commitment by being with Rama at his side during the exile.
It is very easy for a person in power to brush away a commitment of the past. But in the early ages the value system was so noble that commitments were etched in stone.
Being truthful and honoring your commitments is the mark of a good human being. It sets you apart, it makes you feel good from within.
Being Truthful and pursuing Dharma is the first step to peace, happiness and spiritual progress.
This Blog appeared in the Feb 2025 edition of Yogavidya , the monthly magazine of Bharat Yogavidya Kendra
From Kedarnath to Rameshwaram crowds in Indian temples are large. At Tirupathi at times you have to wait 24+ hrs to get a glimpse of divinity. Chidambaram is one of the few temples with spiritual and religious connections from time immemorial. Yet, the abode of Nataraja is always inviting. To the few chosen few. This Blog will highlight some unique aspects of the Chidambaram temple and help you plan your visit.
Five temples were built in S India. They symbolize the 5 fundamental elements (Pancha Bhootha) Space, Air, Fire, Water & Earth. They stand for not just the physical world but the energetic qualities in all life. Visiting these temples is said to influence and purify the element it signifies. These temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva.
Space – Chidambaram
Air – Sri Kalahasti (Near Tirupathi)
Fire – Arunachaleshwarar (Thiruvanamalai)
Water – Jambukeshawarar (Tiruchi)
Earth – Ekambareshwarar (Kancheepuram)
About Chidambaram Thillai Nataraja temple
The Nataraja Temple Chidambaram is also referred to as Thillai Nataraja Temple. This name is on account of the forest of “Thillai” trees that existed here in the past. Chidambaram literally meaning “clothed in thought” or “atmosphere of wisdom”.The main deity of the temple is Nataraja, who dances the Ananda Tandava (Dance of Bliss). Tandava is a type of dance. It can be understood as a pattern of energy flow. Lord Shiva undertakes it for a specific purpose. The Agamas refer to 7 Tandavas – Kali Tandava, Gauri Tandava, Samhara Tandava, Tripura Tandava and Urduva Tandava. The Sandya Tandava is a calm and relaxed dance. It occurs in-between creations. The Ananda Tandava synthesizes all the Tandavas.
Ananda Tandava
The Ananda Tandava is said to have first occurred in Darukavanam. Sages Patanjali & Vyagrapadar came to know of this dance and were keen to witness. They performed severe penance at the shrine of Adi Moolanathar. Lord Shiva granted their wish. He performed the Ananda Tandava at the place where the Nataraja idol is presently installed. This act was to bless Sage Patanjali & Vyagrapadar. Besides the main Nataraja statue, the temple also has a Shiva Lingam in Crystal stone (Sphatika) and in Ruby. Daily Abhishekam’s are done to these Lingams. The current Nataraja Bronze statue dates back to the Chola period.
Adi Moolanathar
Most visit the Chidambaram temple for Nataraja. But the “Moolavar” main deity of the temple is “Adi Moolanathar”. Much before Lord Shiva appeared here in the form of Nataraja he has been here as a Swayambu Lingam. The origin and date of this Lingam is unknown. It is believed that this Lingam is the energy source for most Lingams in the land. Hence, the name Moolanathar (Lord of the source). As it has been here from the beginning (Adi) of time it is known as Adi Moolanathar.
Chidambaram Rahasyam
An empty chamber in the sanctum of the Chidambaram temple is to the right of Nataraja. It stands for Space. This formless aspect of the creator is presented as “Chidambaram Rahasyam” (Secret of Chidambaram). Formless space is the most fundamental of all elements. It forms the basis of the four other elements of the Pancha Bhootha. This space is veiled by a curtain. It is lifted after the puja at certain times. Devotees throng to get a glimpse. Lamps are waved for a very brief period. You can see an empty chamber with hanging golden Vilva leaves. Inside the chamber is embedded a powerful “chakra” that serves as the energy base for the temple. Lord Shiva & Parvathi are said to live here in their formless state.
Pancha Sabha Temples
In Tamil Nadu, there are 5 temples where Lord Shiva expressed his five functions in the universe in the form of dance. These temples are referred to as the “Pancha Sabhai “ temples or the five dancing halls. They are
Chidambaram (Pon Sabha – Golden Hall)
Tiru Alangadu (Rathna Sabha – Ruby Hall)
Madurai (Velli Sabha – Silver Hall)
Tirunelveli (Tamira Sabha – Copper Hall)
Courtrallam (Chitra Sabha – Hal of Murals)
Chidambaram is one of the 5 Pancha Sabhai temples. It also has 5 Sabhas – Chit Sabha, Kanaka Sabha, Deva Sabha, Nritya Sabha & Raja Sabha.
Chit Sabha houses the idol of Lord Nataraja.
Kanaka Sabha is used for performing daily rituals.
Nrithya Sabha is where the Lord Shiva is said to have danced with Goddess Kali.
Raja Sabha or the 1000-pillared hall which symbolizes the yogic chakra of the pillared lotus or Sahasra
Deva Sabha houses the Pancha moorthis and a revered collection of historic bronze sculptures and modern-era frescoes.
The Chit Sabha or Chitrambalam
This is the Sanctum Sanctorum housing Lord Nataraja, his consort Sivakama Sundari and the Chidambaram Rahasyam.
There are 9 Kalashas (Pots) on the roof representing the nine Shakti’s.
The door leading to the Chit Sabha symbolizes illusion
The 96 Tattvas of creation are in the shape of 96 windows
The 4 golden pillars in the middle represent the 4 Vedas
The 28 wooden pillars around them represent the 28 Siva Agamas
The 64 Kalas (Arts) are represented as 64 beams
The 21600 gold leaves shaped like Vilva leaves on the roof represent the average number of breaths a human being takes in a day
These are secured by 72000 nails that represent the energy channels or ‘nadis’ in the human body
The Panchakshara (Na Ma Si Va Ya) mantra has 5 syllables. There are also 5 steps leading to the shrine.
A Divya Desam inside the Chidambaram temple
Lord Govindraja’s shrine in Chidambaram is 40th in the list of 108 Divya Desam’s. King Nandivarman Pallava II (717 – 782 AD) built the famous Vaikunta Perumal temple in Kancheepuram. He is also said to have consecrated the Govindaraja shrine here. Initially, the Deekshitar worshiped the shrine as a subordinate to Nataraja. In the 10th century there was a dispute between the Vaishnavites & the Deekshitar’s about authority of the shrine. In the 1st half of the 12th century, it is said that Kulatunga Chola II removed the idol. He then dumped it in the sea. It was recovered and taken to lower Tirupathi where it was consecrated and enshrined by Ramanuja. It seems that there was no Vishnu shrine in Chidambaram between 12th & 15th century. Later Achuta Raya who ascended the throne after Krishnadeva Raya reconsecrated the idol in its original place.
Modern Temple History
The earliest mention of the “dancing god of Chidambaram” as Shiva is in texts by Appar & Sambandar. (Shaiva Siddhanta saints).These texts are from the 6th and early 7th centuries. Viduvelvidugu Perumthachan is considered the chief architect. Parantaka Chola is said to have started the construction of the temple.
The current structures and plans in the Chidambaram temple complex mostly date back to the 12th and 13th centuries. This includes the mandapas and their pillar carvings, the various shrines, the sacred water pool, and the gopuram. These are attributed to the late Chola and early Pandya kings. After the Pandyas the Vijayanagar kings also contributed to the development & upkeep of the temple. Post the Vijayanagar kings the Cheras & Nayakas of Madurai provided extensive grants and made improvements to the temple.
The history of Chola kings and their association with Chidambaram runs deep. Raja Raja – 1, the most famous Chola king was an ardent devotee of Nataraja like his predecessors & successors. Chidambaram was the second capital of the Cholas and most kings had their coronations here.
The records left by the court historians of the Delhi Sultanate state that Malik Kafur raided Chidambaram, Srirangam & Madurai. He also attacked other Tamil towns and destroyed the temples. The Nataraja temple was one of the sources of the gold and jewels booty he brought back to Delhi.
The Deekshitar’s
The Chidambaram Deekshitar’s are said to have migrated from Mount Kailash with Lord Shiva. They were 3000 of them initially, now they are about 500 families. In the Chidambaram Mahatmya, Lord Shiva explains to Nandi. He states that the Deekshitar’s fully understand the sanctity and greatness of Nataraja. They are also well versed in the scriptures. Till date the Deekshitar’s conduct the worship as laid down by Patanjali based on the Vaidika Puja tradition.
This is the only temple in Tamil Nadu that is not managed by the Government. The 500 Deekshitar families manage full control. This is probably why you will not see tickets for special darshan. Security does not frisk you. Priests do not hound you for money. The energy and sanctity of the temple has been maintained very well by the Deekshitar’s. This adds to the uniqueness of the temple.
If you need a detailed tour of the temple, you need to connect with a Deekshitar. For access to the Sanctum Sanctorum platform, you should also reach out to a Deekshitar.
Temple Daily Rituals & Festivals
There are 6 worship services every day.
Kala Sandhi – between 6 & 7 AM
Second Kalam – 10.30 AM (Abhishekam to Sphatika Lingam & Ruby image of Nataraja)
Uchi Kalam – 12 Noon (Abhishekam to Sphatika Lingam)
Saya Rakshai – 6 PM, Most elaborate. During this time, 16 offerings are made to the Sphatika Lingam as part of the Shodasa Upachara. The grand finale of this Kalam is the parting of the curtain three times to reveal the Chidambaram Rahasyam
Evening Second Kalam – 7 PM , The doors and the windows of the Chit Sabha are completed closed during the puja for the Chidambaram Rahasyam
Artha Jamam – 9 PM, The Artha Jamam puja is performed with special fervour. All the divine beings are said to witness it. Lord Shiva retiring in the night chamber is symbolic of the Universe returning to the seed form. The 1st puja is symbolic of beginning of creation.
The temple opens at 6 AM. Devotees escort Lord Shiva’s bejeweled silver padukas from the night chamber (Palli Arai) to the Sanctum Sanctorum in a palanquin. This is a beautiful event accompanied by cymbals, chimes, trumpets, and drums. In the Chit Sabha, the padukas are placed close to Lord Nataraja in the Chidambaram Rahasyam chamber.
After the Deeparadhana at 10 PM, the priests ceremoniously take Lord Nataraja’s holy Padukas from the Chitt Sabha. They carry them in a palanquin to the night chamber. After the rituals and the Aarti, the Lords Padukas are placed on a swing in the Palli Arai next to Devi. They are then rocked slowly. Then the doors are shut
Six Abhishekam’s are performed for the Sphatika Lingam every day. The Abhishekam for Lord Nataraja & Sivakami is conducted 6 times every year. This is called Maha Abhishekam.
The 6 Main festivals
The two annual grand Brahmotsav festivals are 10 day festivals and are celebrated in
Marghazi (Dec 15 – Jan 15) concluding on the full moon day of Arudra.
The second of these grand festivals occurs in the month of Aani (May – June). It concludes with Aani Tirumanjanam on the 10th day of the Uthiram Nakshatra.
These are grand festivals attracting large number of devotees. Special functions are arranged on each day. On the 9th day, the Lord is taken in a procession on a chariot around the temple streets. . This is an experience to behold once in a lifetime.
Other than the Brahmotsavams a grand dance festival called Natyanjali is also celebrated at Chidambaram every year.
Maha Abhishekam (the great holy bathing) of the deities, Lord Nataraja and Goddess Sivakamasundari, is conducted six times a year. These occur on certain specified dates.
Tiruvonam star day, month of Chithirai, at the Kanaka Sabha.
Utara star day, month of Ani, at the Thousand Pillared Mantapa, as part of the Ani Tirumanjanam festival.
The Purvapaksha chaturdasi day in the month of Avani at the Kanaka Sabha.
The Purvapaksha chaturdasi day in the month of Purattasi at the Kanaka Sabha.
Arudra (Tiruvadirai) star day, month of Margazi, at the Thousand-Pillared Mantapa, as part of the Arudra Darshanam festival.
The Purvapaksha chaturdasi day in the month of Masi at the Kanaka Sabha.
Temple Architecture
You need to spend a few days to visit and explore this massive, grand temple. Allow yourself to absorb the energy at different times of the day. Don’t rush through in a few hours.
The temple had a pre-Chola existence. Its architecture is a combination of Chola and Pandya styles. The Sanctum Sanctorum closely resembles Kerala style structures. Indeed, the royal charters mention the rebuilding of the Sanctum using architects from Kerala. Nevertheless, the golden roof is a striking example of Vesara architecture with its apsidal shape. (Vesara is a hybrid form of Indian temple architecture that combines Southern Indian site layouts with shape details characteristic of the Nagara style of North India)
Spread across 40 Acres, the temple is designed in 5 concentric courtyards, 4 of which are accessible to public. The Chitt Sabha (hall of consciousness) is considered the oldest.
The Sivakami Sundari temple, the Raja Sabha, 100 Pillared hall – are attributed to the 12thcentury Cholas.
The 4 Gopurams in the outer parikramas are gigantic masterpieces with seven tiers. In the towers on either side of the gateway there are representation of the 108 poses of Bharat Natyam.
There are many shrines with the complex, the second largest after Nataraja being that of his consort Sivakami Sundari. She is the mother of the universe – Parashakti. She offers darshan as a six foot tall beautiful mother providing bliss to her devotees. There are many more shrines for Subramanya, Ganesha, Nandi, Kali, and Mahishasuramardini. There is also a Surya shrine with chariot wheels.
Close to the Devi temple is a shrine with Adi Shankara’s statue and a large Sri Chakra Yantra. Locals believe that the Sri Chakra was installed by Rishi Suka Brahma. Normally the Sri Chakra is inside the Sanctum Sanctorum – this is a unique case where it is outside.
As you finish the circuit you cross the grand Shiva Ganga Teertha.
Thillai Kali
Dedicated to Kali this temple is located ½ km from the Chidambaram Nataraja temple. Goddess Parvathi took the form of Kali to vanquish some demons. Even after destroying the demons her ferocity continued unabated. Lord Shiva engaged in a dance contest. The thrilling meeting ended with Shiva winning. He performed the Urduva Tandava (Shiva lifting his leg 90% upwards). This was a pose Devi was unable to execute. Kali was subdued and she retreated to live in the outside boundary.
Where to stay at Chidambaram
Option – 1 : Hotel Akshaya. They have large rooms including Suites and car parking. An excellent A2B is on the Ground floor serves great food. It’s a 5 min walk from the East Entrance. This has limited car parking.
Option – 2 : Arudra Residency. On the East entrance path, 100 m from the temple main entrance. Smaller hotel with small rooms.
Option – 3 : Lakshmi Vilas Heritage. It is a heritage village with 16 rooms. This village is about 15 Km south of Chidambaram. It is a large property with lots of greenery. There is a nice pond and a 150-year-old temple in its compound. This property serves Non Veg food.
Best place for food is A2B (Adayar Anand Bhavan) – excellent variety, very neat and clean. The next best option is Sri Krishna Vilas. Smaller place on the main road. Gets very crowded. Food is good – some guests I have referred felt that the cleanliness was not upto par.
Additional Points
If you stay at Arudra Residency, Parking is on the main road – East Car Street. You enter the temple from the East Gate. Akshaya hotel has a few limited parking slots. During Brahmotsav festival no parking is allowed on the main road to allow passage for the chariot procession.
Dress code is traditional , If you go up the Sanctum podium you need to wear dhoti & sari, men remove the shirt
No checks for phone – but no photography & Video of temple
Drive from Bangalore is 6 – 6 ½ hrs depending on the day and time of departure
In and around Chidambaram are many ancient temples. Tanjore & Kumbakonam are close by. The famous Vaitheeswaran temple is an hr away.
Pondicherry is a few hrs from Chidambaram
Best time to visit is Jan – Feb. Summers are very hot and Sep – Mid Dec is the rainy season.
Thiruvanamalai can be covered on the way back – its 3 hrs from Chidambaram.
Indian history has been unfair to the South. The great empires of Cholas, Pallavas, Pandyas, Cheras & Chalukyas are more of a footnote in a Delhi dominated narration. Tamil is one of the worlds oldest languages. Shaiva Siddhanta considers Tamil & Sanskrit the two eyes of Lord Shiva. Tamil history and culture is as ancient as Sage Agastya. This is the land of great saints like Thirumoolar, Sambandar, Appar, Sundarar, Manikkavacakar, Bhoganathar & Sadashiv Brahmendra. It is also the land of great musicians Thyagaraja, Muthuswamy Deekshitar, and Shyama Shastri. Bharatanatyam, the oldest Indian classical dance form originated in the Tanjore district of Tamil Nadu and is regarded as the mother of many other classical dance forms of India.
The Pandya dynasty also referred to as the Pandyas of Madurai, was an ancient Tamil dynasty, and among the four great kingdoms of Tamilakam, the other three being the Pallavas, Cholas & the Cheras.
This Blog is based on a 3 day trip called the Pearls of Pandya’s organised by Heritage Inspired. A unique company which presents history, art & culture of the ancient empires of S India in a very innovative manner. Supported by highly competent people they provide in-depth knowledge across very well organised trips. Do check them out and plan your next travel with them. (www.heritageinspired.in)
Pandyas – a brief introduction
The Pandyas are the oldest among the Tamil kingdoms with a long history spanning over 2500 years. They belong to the Lunar race (Chandra Vamsha) and their symbol is the double fish.
Their era can be broken into these divisions
Sangam Pandyas – 300 BC to 300 CE – Korkai Port
Early Pandyas – 600 to 1000 CE – Madurai
Later Pandyas – 1100 to 1200 CE – Subdued under the Cholas – Madurai
Later Pandyas – 1200 to 1400 CE – Madurai
Tenkasi Pandyas – 1500 – 1700 CE – Tenkasi
Pandyas were famous for three things – Literature, Trade & Water Management.
Sangam the great cultural events of poetry and music were orchestrated under their era. A repository of over 2000 poems in Tamil. composed by 470+ poets have been preserved. The poetry of the Sangam era is largely about love (akam) and war (puram). The Sangam literature also includes Buddhist and Jain epics.
Trade – They had extensive trade in India & across the world – strategically placed along the key trade routes both land & sea – they did business with the ancient Romans, Greeks, Arabs, Chinese, Africans, Egyptians & SE Asians. The trade of horses was very common during this period. Other goods traded included spices, pearls, precious stones, elephants and birds. The busiest port town under the Pandyas was Kayalpattinam (now in Thoothukudi district)
Religion – It is believed that initially the Pandyas followed Jainism but later adopted Shaivism. Medieval Pandyas and later Pandyas repaired many temples and endowed them with gold and land. Patronage was also extended to Vedic practices. The impartiality of rulers towards both Shaivism and Vaishnavism is also made known in the invocatory portions of the Pandya inscriptions
Administration
Kings and local chiefs created Brahmin settlements called Mangalam or Chaturvedi Mangalam with irrigation facilities. These settlements were given royal names and names of the deities
The prime minister was called Uttaramantri. The royal secretariat was known as Eluttu Mandapam. The titles of military commanders were Palli Velan, Parantakan Pallivelan, Maran Adittan and Tennavan Tamizhavel
Madurai was their capital – around 1311 under Malik Kafur the Delhi Sultanate usurped Madurai for 50 years. This was a dark period where wealth was plundered and temples were looted and ransacked. Post this Vijayanagar rule was imposed. After 1328 the Pandyas never regain Madurai and are pushed down south to rule from a few places around the Thamirabarani river and are called the Tenkasi Pandyas. At their zenith in 1270 AD the Pandyas ruled over all of TN , a part of S Karnataka, parts of S & Coastal Andhra and parts of Sri Lanka.
Pandya empire in 1270 AD
The Pandya’s were not prolific temple builders like the Cholas, Hoysalas & Pallavas.
The Pandyas entered their golden age under Maravarman I and Sundara Pandya (13th century). The latter used the vast treasure he got out of his wars to beautify the Nataraja temple in Chidambaramand the Vishnu temple in Srirangam. For gold plating the roofs of these two temples he was given the title of “pon veindha perumal”. He acknowledged the contributors of other dynasties to Tamil Nadu by building a gate at the Sri Ranganathaswami Temple at Srirangam in which he engraved the names of all the four great empires of Tamil Nadu namely the Cholas, Pallavas, Pandyas and the Cheras. He also built the East tower of the Meenkashi temple. He gold plated and placed the gold gilded Kalasam atop the gopuram of the Vimana of Tirumala. In 1263 CE, he renovated the Gopuram of Koneswaran temple and his son Veera Pandyan implanted the Pandyan victory flag and insignia of a “Double Fish” emblem at Konamalai.
Muniyandi temple in Alanganallur– the Gaurdian deity of the locals. Here we were entertained to folk dance by the locals.
Kallalagar Temple – one of the 108 Divya Desams
Day – 2
Kazhugumalai – Unfinished Shiva temple -Vettuvan Kovil, a beautiful Monolithic temple that dates to 850 AD. Jain Monk caves & Bass relief.
Tirumalapuram Cave Temple – Shiva
Kashi Vishwanath temple – Tenkasi
Cultural program – Kutralam Kuravanji
We were staying at a resort overlooking the Agastya Hills , 1 km from Kutralam falls – however heavy rains from the previous few days restricted our visit to the falls
Day – 3
Kulashekara Perumal Kovil in Mannarkovil – a beautiful Vishnu temple with Ashtanga Vimana
An ancient Shiva temple in Tirupudaimaradur where we walked up the narrow steps of the Gopuram and were amazed with wall painting dating back to 1500 AD
Adichanallur an archaeological site – famous for a number of very important archaeological finds. Korkai, the capital of the early Pandyan kingdom, is located about 15 km from Adichanallur.
What makes this trip by Heritage Inspired (HI) unique
An avid traveller and Tamilian – I had not heard of many of these places. It was great discovering them and getting educated.
HI had special access to many places and we visited areas which are normally out of bounds
Not only was the trip planned and executed to perfection – there was detailed commentary and insights on the places we visited. The professional inputs from Professor Kannan, Parvathi Madam & Senthil were excellent.
We stayed in nice resorts, food was excellent , from the time the trip started till we got dropped off we did not have to spend a single rupee.
The cultural programs / folk dances were the icing on the cake and we thoroughly enjoyed it
The rates for this trip were very reasonable – if you had to do a trip like this solo it would have cost 3X.
Excellent group of people
Geographically the 5 terrains of land, kurinji (hill terrain), mullai (forest land), marutham(flat open land), neithal (coastal land) and palai (arid land) broadly are the natural divisions (thinai) of land on earth with probably a few subdivisions. Pandya country was endowed with all 5.
During these 3 days we travelled ~ 325 KM and covered most of these territories. Mid Dec after the rains the land was green and fertile. Roads were excellent. Population looked sparse. Local people in general looked happy and contented. The water management system established 1000+ years ago by the Pandya, Chola kings are the foundation on which current day farming still happens. In the absence of perennial rivers the ancient systems still serve the population effectively.
An opportune time for Sadhana & Spiritual progress
When faith meets astrology, something miraculous happens every 12 years. This occurs along the banks of holy rivers or at their confluence (Sangam) in four auspicious places. The Kumbh– An opportune time for a Sadhak to accelerate their spiritual journey.
Kumbh is derived from the word Kumbhak, which means a sacred container filled with the elixir of immortality. As the Devas & Asuras churned the ocean, several divine objects and beings emerged. Finally, the divine pot (Kumbh) filled with Amrita. The possession of this pot became a matter of conflict, as whoever consumed the nectar would gain immortality.
The divine bird Garuda took the pot and flew away. He did this to prevent the Amrita from falling into the hands of the Asuras. In pursuit, the Asuras and Devas fought fiercely in the sky. During this pursuit, the chase lasted twelve divine days (equivalent to twelve human years). A few drops of Amrita fell on four places on Earth – Prayagraj, Haridwar, Nasik, and Ujjain. These locations are where the Kumbh is traditionally celebrated.
Kumbh & Astrology – A great time for Sadhana
The Kumbh’s occurrence is deeply connected with astrology. The event is based on the positions of the planets, particularly Jupiter, the Sun, and the Moon. Kumbh happens when Jupiter enters a specific zodiac sign. The Sun and Moon must also be in particular positions. This alignment creates a unique astrological configuration.
The alignment of Jupiter in Aquarius and the Sun in Aries is not a random occurrence. It’s a cosmic dance that has been observed and revered for thousands of years. This configuration creates a powerful spiritual energy that is believed to cleanse the mind, body, and soul. This alignment holds more than traditional significance. It signifies a convergence of cosmic forces impacting every aspect of life on Earth. Furthermore, the Moon governs the mind and emotions. Its phase during Kumbh plays a crucial role in enhancing the spiritual experience. A full moon during the event amplifies the effects of the rituals, making the experience even more profound.
Hindus believe that doing Sadhana and bathing in the sacred rivers during the Kumbh will cleanse them of their sins. This practice will help them achieve Moksha.
Why is the Kumbh held every 12 years
Jupiter takes approximately 12 years to finish its orbit around the Sun. Correspondingly, the Kumbh is celebrated every 12 years, aligning with Jupiter’s orbit. This cycle is a cornerstone in determining the timing of the festival at each of the four sacred sites.
The Four Sacred Sites
Prayagraj (Allahabad): Situated at the confluence of three rivers. These rivers are the Ganges, Yamuna, and Sarasvati. The Kumbh here is celebrated when Jupiter is in Taurus or Vrishabha. Additionally, the Sun and Moon are in Capricorn or Makara.
Haridwar: Located along the Ganga. The Kumbh occurs here when Jupiter is in Aquarius or Kumbha. The Sun and Moon are in Aries and Sagittarius, respectively.
Nasik: The festival takes place on the banks of the Godavari River. It is celebrated when Jupiter is in Leo or Simha. The Sun and Moon are in Cancer at that time.
Ujjain: The city is situated on the Shipra River. The Kumbh here takes place when Jupiter is in Leo. The Sun and Moon are in Aries during this event.
Variations of the Kumbh : The regular Kumbh is held every 12 years. There are variations like the Ardh (Half) Kumbh. It is celebrated every six years at Haridwar and Prayagraj. The Maha (Great) Kumbh occurs after 12 Purna Kumbh, amounting to 144 years. It is particularly celebrated in Prayagraj.
Kumbh – held every three years, rotating between Prayagraj, Haridwar, Nasik, and Ujjain.
Ardh Kumbh – takes place every six years at Haridwar and Prayagraj. It’s known as the “Half Kumbh” because it occurs halfway between the 12-year cycle of the normal Kumbh.
Purna Kumbh – is celebrated every twelve years at four locations. These locations are aligned with the zodiacal positions that dictate the Kumbh schedule.
Maha Kumbh – is celebrated at Prayagraj every 144 years, which is after 12 ‘Purna Kumbh’.
Sadhana during Kumbh
While millions flock to take a dip in the hold waters during these auspicious dates a true Sadhak will immerse himself in deep Sadhana called Kalpavas
This ritual begins on Ekadashi of the full moon in the Paush month. It continues up to ‘Maghi Ekadashi’. This period is one big task. It is during this time span a Sadhak has to strictly follow 21 rules through mind, speech, and action.
The 21 good practices during Kalpavas are akin to Yama – Niyamas of Yoga
Always speak the truth
Follow Nonviolence
Understand the bad actions of others and always reason before concluding
Feel the same way for all living beings
Have no sexual relationships; your devotion should be towards the environment and Lord
Let nothing come your way. Reject all indulgence in the materialistic world
Rise before sunrise. Start your day as nature does.
Take bath 3 times a day.
Observance of ‘Trikal Sandhya’
Pay tribute to your ancestors by performing ‘Pind Daan’
Donate whatever pleases your pocket
Enunciate the name of God always at the back of your mind. Don’t think of anything else but God
Associate with a true divine being. Listen to their righteous mind and follow their sayings at Satsangs
Shetra Sanyas ( non-violation of reserved space),
Say no to criticism. Let it go.
Offer services to ascetics and saints, you will earn extra brownie points for that
Japa- Meditative repetition of the name of the divine and, this time out loud
Sankirtan- Give in your all to the prayers of the divine
Eat only once a day
Sleep on the ground closer to Mother Earth
Keep distance from envy and anger
Kumbh is not a mela – it is a rare opportunity to strengthen your practice and accelerate your journey
This article appeared in the November edition of Bharat Yogavidya Kendra newsletter.
You should maximize the output from your trip to the Himalayas. Make sure it is safe and comfortable. This Blog is based on our 1 week trip between Sep 28 – Oct 5, 2024. It has useful points to help you plan your trip
How to get there
Delhi & Dehradun are your two getaway points. Most cities have direct flights to Dehradun. After a few days with friends at Delhi we left on Sep 28th at 7 AM. The road is good. We covered Rishikesh – Delhi in 4 ½ hrs on the return, starting at 6 AM. The onward journey took us longer. This will improve when the Delhi – Dehradun expressway is completed next year.
TIP – When in Delhi do visit Diggin – a nice restaurant in Panchsheel Marg at Santushti shopping complex. Most long time Delhi residents are not aware of this place.
Where did we stop for the 1st night
We departed Delhi at 7AM. After breakfast at a Dhaba enroute, we reached our first stop – Vashishta & Arundhati caves at 2.30. The Vashist Gufa is closed between 1 – 3, but the Arundhati cave is open all times. Lunch was at a small restaurant after Srinagar around 4 PM.
We reached the Dandi Kanthi hotel by 7 PM. It is a small new hotel located between Srinagar & Rudraprayagon the banks of the Alaknanda. This hotel is 200m from the Dhari Devi temple. The temple is considered the custodian deity of the 4 Dham’s. It is highly revered in Uttarakhand. (This is not the J&K Srinagar – Uttarakhand also has a town called Srinagar)
Day 2 we reach Badrinath in the afternoon
We start the day with a visit to the Dhari Devi temple. The temple opens at 6 AM and there was no crowd. Back in our hotel by 7 – we had a light breakfast and head out to Badrinath. We had lunch on the outskirts of Badrinath and reached our room by 2.30 in the afternoon.
How is the road
Between 2010 – my first trip and now things have not changed much. 80% of the road is good. Yet, the mountains are fragile. Landslides can occur, and these need to be cleared. Lanes can get narrow – one way. Vehicles breakdown. Rail track construction is ongoing till Karnaprayag – close to Joshimath, adding to the traffic woes. So budget for delays en route – you can at best travel 25 Km / hr
Food & Restroom
There are no good cafes / restaurants after you leave Rishikesh. Small village shops that serve decent fresh N Indian food. Clean rest rooms are a big challenge. Food here is mainly Paratha / Roti / Rice / Dal / Aloo / Rajma / Chole / Paneer. Food tip – Eat light, avoid oily food.
Is there an alternate mode of transport
There are helicopter tours. A friend covered Kedarnath & Badrinath from Dehradun in 6 hrs @ 1 L/ person. That’s only the temple visit. There are also one way or return Helicopter rides. If you are not on a pilgrimage and want to explore the area, it is best to drive. The slow ascent also helps in acclimatization.
Our 3 nights at Badrinath
Badrinath is at 10,100 feet. Our plan was to visit the temple multiple times and explore all the areas in and around Badrinath. We had a good driver and a guide .
TIP – always plan an extra night. You could get stuck in traffic enroute or there may be heavy rains, weather in the hills is unpredictable. So budget for some backup time.
Temple Visits
Day – 1 : Evening we visited the temple. We did not have a ticket, but we got VIP entry to the Chandi Aarti. This was thanks to the local DM contact my friend had.
Day – 2 : We had tickets for the Swaran Aarti in the evening at 6.30 PM
Day – 3 : We had tickets for the early morning 4.30 AM Abhishekam pooja.
We also experienced the regular Mukh Darshan from a distance. This happened a few times later in the evening when the crowd was less.
The temple is ancient & small. You can enter the temple and get close to the Sanctum Sanctorum only if you have booked tickets in advance. The regular Darshan is from a distance and that gives you less than 30 seconds of Darshan time.
Strongly recommend that you book a tickets for every day you are there. You must book the early morning 4.30 AM Abhishekam pooja ticket. This Pooja lasts for over 2 hours. It includes Abhishekam, Aarti, Chanting of Mantras, and narration of the history of Badri Narayan. The Aarti tickets for Rs 500 allow you 15 Min inside the main temple complex.
The temple area can become very congested, even with a ticket. Only 30 – 40 people can sit. The rest have to crowd along the sides. The Q entry is not well managed and there is a lot of pushing and shoving.
Maha Abhishekam is 4700, Abhishekam is 4500 – it’s the same pooja, but they allow those with the 4700 tickets first entry
If you have booked Swaran Aarti, make sure to stand in the queue during the earlier Chand Aarti. You can also line up during Kapoor Aarti. That’s the only way you can try to be upfront when your scheduled Aarti starts.
Hot Springs or Tapt Kund
We visited the hot springs and took bath multiple times. The water is almost boiling hot. Its clean – since nobody can enter the Kund. Carry towels & a mug from the hotel to take a bath. Around 7 PM in the evening the crowd at the Kund is light to empty.
Other Things to see in & around Badrinath
Charan Paduka – a revered place. Lord Vishnu is said to have first set foot on earth here. It is a short trek on the way to Neelkanth Parvat. It’s a beautiful and easy trek. A glacier stream from Neelkanth flows down the route adding to the charm. On both sides are the Nar & Narayan mountains. If you leave at 8 AM you can be back by 1.30 for lunch after a slow relaxed trek to Charan Paduka & beyond.
Mana is a small village close to the Tibet border. It’s a 10 min drive from Badrinath. Mana is home to a few interesting sites
Vyas Gufa & Ganesh Gufa are sites where most of our ancient scriptures were written.
Keshav Prayag is the point where the Saraswathi meets the Alaknanda and then goes underground. Saraswathi has a short 500 m forceful run that is a sight to watch before it merges with the Alaknanda. You can trek down a short steep section to the Prayag.
Vasudhra Falls is a 4 Km (one way) beautiful trek from Mana. This takes you to the point from where the Pandavas started their ascent to the heavens.
Valley of Flowers / Hemkund Sahib are 2 – 3 day’s trekking trips around Badrinath. Auli – is a beautiful hill station 2 hrs from Badrinath.
Where to stay in Badrinath
The area is beautiful. One can only visualize how it would have been 100 years back. Now it’s a concrete commercial jungle – lot of developmental work in progress. There are many accommodation options, most are basic. I would recommend Hotel Snow Crest – This is the best in town. We stayed at Hotel Yoga which was next to this hotel. It’s a 15 – 20 min walk to the temple from here. Badrinath Devlok – run by GMVN( Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) is also a good choice.
What to Eat / Where to eat
Lot of restaurants offering a variety of food items. Avoid Idlis – they are tempting but the ones here are hard as a rock. The sambar is also disappointing. Dosa is better – its fresh. Most of our meals were at Sardeswari Restaurant – Near Devlok Chowk. Their service was excellent. One meal was special. They kindly cooked the Bhindi we provided. We got tired of the usual items on the menu. Carry cash – many please dont accept Pay.
We head to Tungnath
After 3 nights at Badrinath we head to Tungnath – one of the Panch Kedar temples in Chopta. We left Badrinath at 8.15 AM and reached our hotel, Regenta Resort Madhunganga at 4 PM. Chopta is beautiful – dense forests and nice views. There are many camps here called Swiss & Alpine camps. Trekkers use these camps. Sadly, they look like refugee camps and spoil the landscape.
Regenta Resort Madhunganga
This is an excellent 4 star property located at Ukhimath. It is strategically positioned on the Kedarnath – Badrinath route. The property offers easy access to many destinations.
Omkareshwar – 2 Km
Kedarnath – 45 Km by road + 16 Km trek
Madhmaheshwar – 20 Km by road + 16 Km Trek
Tungnath – 29 Km by road + 4 Km Trek
Kalimath – 20 Km by road
Triyuginarayan – 53 Km by Road
Anusuya Devi / Atri Rishi Ashram also comes on the way from Badrinath – Chopta. This involves a 4 km trek.
We stayed here for one night. Our purpose was to visit Tungnath, which is one of the Panch Kedar. It is the highest Shiva temple at 12800 feet. This is a great hub to spend a week and cover a lot of places.
Tungnath Trek
This attracts a lot of traffic and the parking area is a mess. The trek route Is like walking on a crowded city road. Most of the stretch is paved – there are some sections that are steep but its an easy trek.
Most trekkers are attracted to Chandrashila – the peak that is ½ Km beyond Tungnath. This stretch is very steep and there are no cemented paths.
Our 3 night stay at Badrinath had acclimatized us well to the high altitude. As a result, the trek to Tungnath was a breeze. We completed it in 2 hours. There is well laid out track for 80% of the journey. You have the choice of taking a horse ride.
Unfortunately there are no restrooms on the trek route.
I was told that the views are spectacular – they were good, but I have seen better.
On the way back from Tungnath, stop at Bunker House. This was the first place we discovered in a week that had Burgers, Pizza, and French Fries. The restaurant has a nice interior.
Best time to travel
The 4 Dhams are closed from 1st Nov – April end. That gives you access for only 6 months. July / Aug / Sep – heavy rains and prone to landslide. May / June are the busiest months because of summer / school vacation. Oct seems to be the best bet – not too cold + rains are over. If you can time your travel around Vijay Dashami or Diwali – you find the least crowds.
Insist on an Innova
Travel safe in an Innova with a good experienced driver. Even if you start from Delhi, insist on using a UK number plate vehicle. It should be pre-registered for the 4 Dham Yatra. A good vehicles & driver takes away a lot of stress. Travel light – don’t overload your Innova with 7 people. We were 2 in an Innova + Driver and guide.
All travelers need to register their trip for the 4 Dhams. This is checked at the entry point of Badrinath. All these steps help you save time on your travel.
Who did our Booking
Our trip was executed by Om Prakash Ji of Rishikesh Day Trips.- 7078203030. He did a good job and was very responsive. We had planned the trip a few months ahead. We did not have hill rides > 6 hrs on any day. We ensured that we were in the room by 6 PM. Our driver was excellent, high energy and always punctual. Insist on a good driver like Mohit Rana (91937 42876). Contact guide Hukum Chinwan at 9690464301 or 75794 81621. Being in touch with your trip planner and setting clear expectations helps in good execution.
Last but not the least PRAY
We planned this trips months ahead. We were lucky to have excellent weather – blue skies, pleasant weather. We did not get stuck in any landslides. Good driver & guide, nice hotels, friendly restaurants – All this is Divine Grace. So pray for a good trip and enjoy the beauty of Dev Bhoomi Uttarakhand.
And one more thing …..
On the way back, stop at Chauhan Bengali sweet shop in Srinagar, Pauri. It is located on the main Badrinath road. Pick up a few Uttarakhand delicacies to carry home. I suggest trying the Bal Mithai without the sugar balls on the top. Also, try the Singori (सिङ्गौड़ी) which is a delicacy from Uttarakhand made with Khoya. It is wrapped in a maalu leaf. It is akin to Kalakhand.
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A few days catch up with old friends in Apple was a good start to the trip
On our way to Charan Paduka
A few kids at Charan Paduka took us further up to Maheshwarnath Babaji cave
At Diggin Delhi
View of the crowded Badrinath Dham on the way to Charan Paduka
Mental illness can be a silent killer. WHO estimates ~ 280M people suffer from depression globally. NIMH (National Institute of Mental Health) estimates 21M US adults had one major depression episode a year – that is ~ 8% of the adult population. Depression is just one of the mental health issues – Anxiety, Bipolar, Eating Disorders, ADHD, OCD, Panic, Schizophrenia, PTSD and others cumulatively impact 11% of the world population.
A large section of those impacted are youngsters and women. Read more on this topic on this Blog that was published in Bharat Yogavidya Kendra monthly newsletter.
Depression, anxiety and behavioural disorders are among the leading causes of illness among adolescents. This trend is accelerating. A WHO report highlighted that globally one in seven 10-19 year-olds experiences a mental disorder, accounting for 13% of the global burden of disease in this age group. Antidepressant prescriptions for young adults and teens in the US increased by nearly 64% from 2020 onward.
Depression in teens is a serious medical illness. It’s more than just a feeling of being sad or “blue” for a few days. It is an intense feeling of sadness, hopelessness, and anger or frustration that lasts much longer. These feelings make it hard for you to function normally and do your usual activities. You may also have trouble focusing and have no motivation or energy. Depression can make you feel like it is hard to enjoy life or even get through the day. In its acute form it leads to suicide.
What impacts Mental Health
Bio-physical – Genetics, family history, prenatal complications, brain injury, lack of sleep, chronic medical condition, poor nutrition, usage of drugs / alcohol etc.
Psychological – Stress, low self-esteem, poor coping skills, poor communication skills, emotional Immaturity, traumatic life experience, gender identity crisis etc.
Social-environmental – Loneliness, family conflict, discouraging environment, financial crisis, unemployment, family structure, parental style, insecurity etc.
In today’s world, most health problems are caused by a faulty lifestyle and emotional complexities.
The changing times and the fear of the youngsters is best depicted in the popular song “Brutal” by Olivia Rodrigo. It spells out the fear and insecurities of the youth by defining how brutal the world is out there. No wonder the song became an instant hit amongst the teenagers.
Healthy Mind
Neuroscientists explain the reason and cause of mental illness through imbalances of 3 neurotransmitters – serotonin, glutamate & dopamine. The Mind impacts our immunity, cardiovascular system, the gut & digestion and also our hormones.
Charak Samhita an ancient Vedic medicinal text highlights the role of the mind in the happiness or sadness of human life. The following verse from the text brings it out clearly.
The person who has become impatient, who is in a dilemma, and whose organs have lost the energy, such a person becomes mentally weak and it is difficult to cure him.
Yoga Identifies the root cause for mental illness
In Yoga, mind or intellect can be represented as ‘Chitta’. The ‘Vrittis’ (disturbance of mind) is understood as the root cause of all mental pains. Vrittis are created in mind by ‘Kleshas’ (afflictions). These five Kleshas are responsible for all diseases.
Avidya (ignorance)
Asmita (egoism)
Raga (attachment to material world)
Dvesa (aversion or hatred)
Abinivesah (fear of death and attachment for life)
Avidya is seen as the root cause of all Kleshas and problems. Avidya disturbs the equilibrium of all cognitive, emotional, and behavioural pillars of a personality. This is called as Chitta-Vritti (modification of mind).
Yoga is a structured science to settle the mind and calm the Vrittis. It is comprehensive and if followed patiently step by step is the perfect solution for most of the mental illness – especially depression faced by humanity.
A healthy yogic lifestyle with proper ‘Achar’ (right conduct), ‘Vihar’ (recreation), ‘Vichar’ (positive thoughts), and ‘Ahara’ (right food) can solve most of our day to day problems.
Yoga is also found effective in increasing the markers of brain plasticity such as brain-derived neurotropic factors. Chanting Mantras and Shlokas has also brought evidence-based favourable changes in the mind and body at functional and structural levels.
The Bhagavad Gita explains the means of calming and controlling the mind in detail. The approach to Sthithprajya (Equanimity / Stability of Mind) has been discussed extensively in the Gita.
Yogic methods that promote mental health
Yoga Nidra: This practice induces alpha waves in the brain, promoting relaxation and significantly increasing dopamine levels, which can enhance mood and alleviate psychological conditions like anxiety and sleep disorders.
Yogasanas: Specific postures like Sarvangasana, Setubandhasana, and Bhujangasana help maintain mind-body harmony, reduce stress, andimprove brain function.
Pranayama: Techniques such as Anuloma-Viloma and Nadishodhana regulate energy flow, balance the autonomic nervous system, and improve overall mental health by increasing oxygen levels and reducing negative thoughts.
Meditation: Regular meditation reduces activity in the limbic system, thereby decreasing emotional reactivity and stress.
In Conclusion
Physical activity, including yoga asanas, boosts mood by lowering stress hormones, increasing endorphins, and enhancing brain function. Yoga offers unique benefits by raising levels of GABA, a neurotransmitter linked to better mood and decreased anxiety. Studies have shown that yoga, compared to other complementary therapies like massage or music, is particularly effective for depression and anxiety, often providing long-lasting benefits. Incorporating yoga into daily life can thus be a powerful tool for improving mental health and complementing traditional therapies.
Shanti Mantra from the Taittiriya Upanishad – Sha(m)n No Mitra Sham Varunaha
It is recommended to chant this mantra daily before the start of the day. It helps in removing obstacles in the aspirants spiritual journey. This blog gives a summary of the Taittiriya Upanishad – where this Mantra is the Shanti Mantra. The significance of the mantra is explained as per Adi Shankara’s commentary. The last part includes the wording and a YouTube rendition.
Essence of the Taittiriya Upanishad
This Upanishad Belongs to The Krishna-Yajurveda.
The great sage Yajnavalkya quarrelled with his preceptor. He was asked by Vaishampayana, his Guru, to return the Veda which he had studied under him. Yajnavalkya vomited the Yajurveda he had learnt. The other Rishis, the pupils of Vaishampayana, assumed the forms of Tittiris (birds, partridges) and swallowed the Veda thus thrown out or vomited. Therefore it came to be known as Taittiriya-Samhita.
This Upanishad is divided into sections called vallis, viz., (1) Siksha-valli or the section on instruction. (2) Brahmananda-valli or the section on Brahma-bliss. (3) Bhrigu-valli or the section on Bhrigu.
In the first section the preceptor gives clear instructions to the aspirants on character building. He imparts to them rules of right conduct or right living in order to prepare themselves for the attainment of Brahma-Jnana or the knowledge of the Self.
The second section deals with bliss of Brahman. The order of creation is described in this Valli.
The third section deals with the story of Bhrigu, son of Varuna, who, under instructions from his father, understood Bliss or Brahman, after undergoing the required penance. In this section the description of the five Kosas or sheaths is clearly given.
Adi Shankara’s commentary on the Taittiriya Upanishad brings to fore a regular syllabus to teach the Brahma Vidya.
Attaining the knowledge of Brahman is not easy. The Gods themselves take a special interest in placing obstacles on the way of an aspirant. Even Rishis are not ready to impart the knowledge lest the householder who nourishes all ceases to work. But if the aspirant has passion to know the knowledge would come to him.
Shankara says this Upanishad opens with a mantra which removes obstacles when chanted.
It is a prayer to the vedic deities – Mitra, Varuna, Aryama, Indra, Brihaspati, and Vishnu. Shankara explains as follows. Mitra is the Devata Atman – The Shining One, the Intelligence, the Self identifying Himself with, and manifesting Himself as day & Prana or upward current of life breath. Varuna is the intelligence concerned with night and Apana or downward current of life breath. Aryama with the eye and the Sun, Indra with strength, Brihaspati with speech and buddhi or intellect, Vishnu with the feet.
Shankara says if these Vedic deities in charge of each individual organism are propitious, then one retains the wisdom acquired and imparts to others.
Praise and salutations are offered to Vayu (air) by the student seeking knowledge of Brahman so that obstacles to the attainment of such knowledge may be removed. All actions and their fruits are under the control of Vayu who is identified with prana. Here Vayu is addressed as Brahman. He is referred to as the visible because of his being direct, immediate, nearer than the sense organs and he can be felt.
The Teacher’s Vow of Truth
To speak the truth is the first necessity of a preceptor, tutor or teacher. ‘ऋतं वदिष्यामि। सत्यं वदिष्यामि।’ – ‘Rutam vadishyãmi; Satyam vadishyãmi’ – ‘I will only speak eternal principles. I will speak the truth (i.e., I will not teach false principles)’.
With these words the rishi has vowed to speak the truth. Here, the rishi is a preceptor, a tutor, a teacher and it is his duty to teach. To lie is a sin, but to teach a lie would be a grave sin. This is a special feature of Vedic guru-shishya dialogues. The teacher understands his responsibility to the disciple and to society. He understands his duty. He is fully aware of how much a defiled education can ravage a disciple’s life, and affect the whole of society.
Moreover, an honest person must be tolerant. He knows that he must bear the occasional hostile reactions of speaking the truth. For this very reason, knowing the continual necessity of such honest and tolerant preceptors in society, the tutoring rishi prays,
Thus, the reason for praying for one’s safety is ultimately just to keep society well educated. This mantra shows the ideal approach a teacher before commencing his lesson.
Full Mantra
ॐ शं नो मित्रः शं वरुणः
Om Shan No Mitrah Sham Varunaha
शं नो भवत्वर्यमा
Shan No BhavatyaVaryama
शं नो इन्द्रो बृहस्पतिः
Shan Na Indroo Brihaspatihi
Vishnu Sahasranamam was composed by Vedavyasa. This is revealed in the Mahabharata.
The Context
Krishna wanted Yudhisthira to meet Bhishma before he passed aways so that he could receive all the wisdom and knowledge that Bhishma had garnered all these years and that would provide guidance to Yudhisthira on the art of ruling the world, and most importantly the art of preparing oneself for the after – life. Along with Krishna the brothers & Yudishtra approached Bhishma who was lying on a bed of arrows awaiting the sacred hour for his departure. It was Magha Shukla Ekadasi also called as Bheeshma Ekadasi.
Six Questions from Yudhishtra
Kimekam Daivatam Loke Kim Vap Yekam Parayanam
Stuvantah Kam Ka Marchantah Prapnuyur Manavah Shubham
Ko Dharmah Sarva Dharmanam Bhavatah Paramo Matah
Kim Japanmuchyate Janthur Janma Samsara Bandhanat
Who is the greatest Lord in the world.
Who is the One refuge for all
By glorifying whom can man reach the auspiciousness (peace & prosperity)
By worshipping whom can man reach the auspiciousness ( peace & prosperity)
What is in thy opinion the greatest Dharma
By doing Japa of what can creatures (Jantu) go beyond the bonds of samsara
Bhishma answer to all questions points to Vishnu the eternal father – the One God. After answering all his questions Bhishma says – ‘I will now advise you on His thousand names. Please listen to them with all attention.’
Are there exactly 1000 names in the Vishnu Sahasranamam
There are 1031 single names of the Lord in the Vishnu Sahasranamam. The extra 31 names are to be considered as an adjective qualifying the immediate following noun. There are 20 double names in the first 500 names and 11 double names in the second half of the chant.
90 names are repeated in this hymn, of them 74 are repeated twice, 14 are repeated thrice and 2 of them repeated 4 times.
What was the test given to Adi Shankara before he commenced his journey as a missionary.
At the end of his short but intense study , Shankara went to seek the blessings of his teacher Govindapadacharya, before commencing his journey. Acharya Govindapada tested Shankara by asking him to write an exhaustive commentary on the Vishnu Sahasranamam. He accomplished this great task – His is one of the commentaries on the Vishnu Sahasranamam. Govindapada satisfied with the proficiency , blessed him and set him on the road to service & action.
The Supreme cannot be defined so how do we have a thousand names.
The Supreme cannot be denominated by any name or defined in any language or expressed even vaguely in any literary form. He is beyond the known & the unknown. He is the illuminating principal of Consciousness that illuminates all experiences.
Yet he has many manifestations. Therefore he can have infinite names in terms of His manifestations. These thousand names of the Lord have been coined and given out by the Rishis. They were collected and strung together into a joyous hymn in the Anushtup Chanda metre to Vishnu, a garland of devotion and reverence by Vyasa.
Kanchi Maha Periyava on how Vishnu Sahasranama came to us.
Back in the 1940s or 50s, someone was interviewing Maha Periyavaa Kanchi Paramacharya Sri Chandrashekara Saraswathi Swamiji. That man recorded the interview using a tape recorder.Periyavaa then posed a question.
“Does anyone know which is the oldest known tape recorder?” Nobody was able to answer. Then Maha Periyavaa asked another question.
“How did Vishnu Sahasranamam come to us?”
Someone said Bheeshma gave it to us. All agreed.
Then Maha Periyavaa posed another query.
“When all were listening to Bheeshma on the battlefield, who took notes at Kurukshetra?”
Again silence.
Maha Periyavaa explained.
When Bheeshma was glorifying Krishna with Sahasranamam everyone was looking at him including Krishna and Vyasa. After he finished the 1000 Namas all opened their eyes.
The first to react was Yudhishthira. He said, ‘Pithamaha has chanted 1000 glorious names of Vasudeva.
All of us listened but none of us have noted it down. The sequence is lost’.
Then all turned to Krishna and asked for His help.
As usual, He said, ‘I also was listening like the rest of you. What can we do?’
Then all beseeched Krishna to help them recover the precious rendition.
Then Krishna said, ‘It can only be done by Sahadeva and Vyasa will write it down.’
Everyone wanted to know how Sahadeva could do it. Krishna replied,
‘Sahadeva is the only one amongst us wearing SHUDHHA SPATIKAM. If he prays to Shiva and does dhyanam he can convert the SPATIKA into waves of sound and Vyasa can write it down. Then, both Sahadeva and Vyasa, sat in the same place, under Bheeshma, where he had recited ‘Sahasranamam’.
Sahadeva started the dhyanam to recover the sound waves from the Spatika.
The nature of Spatika is that it will capture sounds in a calm environment which can be got back with proper dhyanam of Maheswara who is Swethambara and SPATIKA.
So, the world’s earliest tape recorder is this SPATIKA which gave us the wonderful Vishnu Sahasranamam. When Maha Periyavaar explained this all were stunned… From the Spatika recording, the grantha came to us through Vyasa.
Kerala “God’s own country”, the land created by Parasurama – home to ancient revered temples, the land where Goddess Bhagavathi is worshipped in every village – is also the hallowed land where the great vedantin Adi Shankara was born.
While most assume his birth place was Kalady, his mother Aryamba’s family home (Mana) was Veliyanad. Children are born in the maternal home – especially in those days. There is strong evidence that Adi Shankara was born and spent many of his early years in Melpazhur Mana his ancestral maternal home. Kaladi was his paternal home next to the Periyar river where he went for his gurukul studies, this is also the place where the crocodile is said to have caught his leg.
Both the places where in bad shape with no support / attention from the Government. Kaladi is now maintained by the Sringeri Mutt, while Swami Chinmayananda has established a wonderful ashram at Adi Shankara’s maternal home. Renamed Adi Shankara Nilayam the abode of Chinmaya International Foundation (CIF) they have carefully restored the ancient Mana and the family temples. An energised oasis of greenery and tranquility the ashram at Veliyanad is a place worth visiting for spiritual aspirants. Not only is it treasured as the birth place and maternal home of Adi Shankara – but is also a centre for Sanskrit and Indic research.
Where is it located – how to reach
About 30 km from Ernakulam, the closest station is Piravam Road. A 20 min auto ride from here takes you to CIF . Kaladi is ~ 50 km from here. There are convenient overnight trains from Bangalore. Located in a small hamlet, Veliyanad, in Ernakulam District, Kerala, India, CIF stands in a 11 acre plot of land amidst luxuriant sun-blessed greenery, temple shrines and lotus ponds. It offers an ambience of peace and solitude for study, research and contemplation to aspirants from all over the world.
How do I book a room
Send a mail to anil.pillai@chinfo.org stating your interest and why you want to visit. AC rooms are 1500 / person inclusive of breakfast / lunch / dinner / tea.
What is CIF
Chinmaya International Foundation (CIF), the Academia of Sanskrit Research and Indic Studies, is the research wing of the Chinmaya Mission Worldwide. It is a centre of excellence for the study, research and dissemination of knowledge in the areas of Indian philosophy, culture, art and science.
Established in the year 1989, CIF is housed in Adi Sankara Nilayam, the hallowed maternal birth home of the great saint, savant and philosopher Sri Adi Sankara.
What is the Melpazhur Mana / Adi Shankara Nilayam
‘Melpazhur Mana’ is a Nambutiri Illom or Mana (home of a Kerala Brahmin). This sacred dwelling is the ancestral, maternal home and birthplace of Adi Sankara. Local tradition has it that Adi Sankara’s vidyarambha and upanayana ceremonies were performed at Melpazhur Mana. Today, this place of pilgrimage is named ‘Adi Sankara Nilayam’.
Set in Kerala’s lush, green country, amidst temple shrines and lotus and lily ponds, Melpazhur Mana offers a spiritual ambience that attracts aspirants who come in search of peace and solitude from the world over. Within the Mana stands the awe-inspiring quiet grandeur of the nalukettu (a building which has a four-winged architectural design) on an extensive compound of 11 acres.
This age-old Nambutiri house highlights Kerala’s sacred and graceful traditions of yore. Its structural strength and design exquisitely blend utility and art, wood and granite, work and worship. The Mana — now a four-winged structure (nalukettu) — was originally an eight-winged structure (ettukettu). The outer four wings were dismantled. The now downsized Mana still exudes the spiritual glory and affluence of old, in its serene character and architectural design.
The northern wing hosts the room ‘Thevarappura’, wherein the daily agnihotra, havans (fire rituals) and other forms of ritualistic worship were conducted. The western wing has an underground cellar ‘Nilavara’, as well as specially designed rooms where the household could store grains, temple ornaments and utensils. The southern extension features the ‘thekkini’, where large family gatherings feasted on special occasions. And finally, in the eastern section, close to the traditional kitchen and well, is the sacred room where Adi Sankara was born.
The walls of the Mana are adorned with Kerala Murals that depict his life events.
In order to enhance the feeling in seekers and help them reach into their own divinity, an idol of Adi Sankara vigraha, was installed in 2015. Meditating in this room is most fulfilling and effortless. Truly, Sri Sankara is felt here in the light of the ever-lit akhanda jyoti and the regular chants and prayers that fill this room. An Arti is conducted every morning at 8 AM.
Temples in the Mana
Melpazhur Mana houses ancient temples from an era gone by, temples ostensibly worshipped by Sri Sankara and his mother. We have on these premises the ancient shrines of Ayyappa, Rama, Krishna, Ganesha, Vettakkoruvan (Kirata Siva, the family deity of Melpazhur Mana), and Goddesses Nagayakshi and Bhagavati. The pond adjacent to the temple compound adds immense beauty to the serene surroundings and artistic structures.
The Ayyappa temple is supposed to be a Swayambu. Temple shrine opens at 5.30 AM – if you visit at 5.45 AM you can see the Abhishekam. Evening the temples open at 5.30 PM – Aarti is around 6.30 PM (please double check on timings once you reach). The temple
They have a well stocked library and there are research scholars working on ancient palm leaf manuscripts decoding them and restoring them. The book shop is also a must visit with an excellent collection of books. There is a small hall where they conduct talks / workshops.
The lunch room serves excellent sattvic food. Breakfast is at 8 AM, Lunch at 1 and dinner at 8 PM. Before each meal the residents chant Chapter 15 of the Bhagavad Gita – so wait before you start eating.
How much time should I plan here
We spent a day – reached at 8.30 AM just in time for breakfast and left at 9.30 AM the next day. This was perfect to have a relaxed trip through the campus.
CIF conducts many programs on Indic / Sanskrit topics. These are multi day events if you decide to enroll and attend. Visit their website for more details.
How is the weather
Nov to Jan is the best time to travel – rest of the year can get hot.
What else can I visit
Kerala is studded with ancient temples. It is indeed a contradiction that this great land of the Gods is now under the Communists.
Kaladi is near the Cochin Airport. That is also worth a visit.
If temples are your interest there are many options. Chootinakara Bhagavathi temple is only 15 km away
You can also drive to Trichur / Guruvayur and visit the the temples there, Trichur is a 100 km 2 1/2 hr drive from CIF
Kodangallur Bhagavathi temple is not far from Trichur – 1 hrs drive. The Koodalmanikyam temple in Irinjalakuda is the only temple dedicated to Bharata. This is close to Kodongollur.
In God’s Own Country a unique dish has been perfected over the centuries as offering to the Gods. The Aravana also called as Nei Payasam is traditionally made in Bhagavati or Devi temples as ritual offering. Aravana Payasam is to Sabarimala Ayyappa what Laddoo is to Tirupathi Balaji. The rich sweet is made with raw rice, jaggery and ghee. There are different variants across regions / families / temples – but they are all time consuming and need skill and passion to execute perfectly. The unique aspect of this sweet is its long shelf life – and that’s probably why it is used in Sabarimala since the trek back in the past was arduous and long – and the Prasadam to be carried to the family had to last.
Families have passed on the tradition from generations – father to son. In the current generation there is a threat of this skill being lost. As fast food & automation replace passion and hard work there are very few who can follow the original recipe to perfection. Given the millions of cans that need to be made at the large temples automation has taken over and the authentic taste is lost.
Aravana production in progress at the mechanised Aravana plant at Sabarimala Sannidhanam.
The Chirayathumadom family from Nadavarambu (Village in Irinjalakuda near Trichur) belongs to the Palghat Iyer clan. Known for their unique culinary skills, the secret family recipe of the Aravana Payasam they used to make as offering to their family deity Puthucode Bhagavati – is still kept alive by a few. Prominent among them is my cousin master chef Venkat who has perfected it over the years. We had the privilege of Venkat coming home and demonstrating how to make it. The recipe is precious – treasure it, try it and use it at your next family get-together
Here is the original recipe passed on over generations
ARAVANA PAYASAM (NEI PAYASAM) RECIPE
Time to cook 1 1/2 – 2 Hrs, 25 medium sized servings
1. Ingredients – 2 kg broken Jaggery (dark brown, not salty), 350-400 gms uncooked rice (Govind Bhog / small grains), 350-400ml of Ghee, one large cup each of of Coconut chips – rectangular 5 mm by 2 mm with copra on one side, Raisins and split Cashew ; a small cup of ground Cardamom.
2. Equipment – Traditional Uruli or any thick bottomed deep and wide pan for making Payasam, another thick bottomed vessel to melt the Jaggery pieces in some water overheat, a vessel to pour the melted jaggery, one Aapai (deep ladle), one long wooden / metal spatula with rectangular shape (longer the better but should be at least 2 ft long), a small vessel to fry coconuts and cashew in ghee.
3. Wash the rice couple of times and strain to remove any impurities. Add 2 cups of water to Uruli and let the water come to boil. Add the rice to the boiling water and stir for about half an hour till rice is cooked. Keep adding some hot water occasionally as and when required till rice is 80% cooked. Keep gas in medium flame on large burner. Ensure the rice is not burnt, overcooked or raw.
4. As the rice is cooking in Uruli, parallelly melt the jaggery in the second thick bottomed vessel with some water by heating it. Pour the melted jaggery slowly into third vessel ensuring any sediments, grit, dust etc. do not flow into the third vessel with the jaggery. Important to note that the jaggery just needs to melt – dont let it becoming a thick concoction. The colour of the jaggery determines the final colour of the payasam. Look for good quality dark jaggery. Avoid readymade powder jaggery or with salty taste.
5. Once the rice is cooked 80%, start adding the melted jaggery one ladle at a time over the next 30-40 minutes, with continuous stirring of the rice mix so that the jaggery is fully absorbed by the rice.
Tip – How to know when to add each ladle of jaggery – as the jaggery gets absorbed and water content evaporates, the rice mix will get slightly viscous and you may notice some resistance while stirring and not see any water, – at this point add next ladle of melted jaggery and continue this process till less than 20% jaggery is left at which point you may pour all the jaggery liquid into the rice mix. Stir carefully but continuously so that the rice mix doesn’t get burnt at bottom of Uruli.
Tips – If available wear long sleeved gloves to safeguard against hot mix bubbling out of Uruli (this is why extra-long wooden ladle preferred so that one can stand at a distance while stirring). Also, the stirring speed should be slow but deep – avoid fast stirring since it will increase the amount of bubbles bursting as more air will get mixed into the rice.
6. About 50 min to 1 hr. from process start (i.e. Step 3 – starting to cook rice), the rice and jaggery mixture should be nice and relatively viscous. At this point start adding the ghee and keep stirring. The ghee now needs to get absorbed in the rice. Adding the entire 250 – 350 ml of ghee with stirring will take about 20 minutes and the mixture should be viscous again.
7. Add the raisins and keep stirring. Switch off heat. Add some more ghee on top. Parallelly, fry the coconut chips in separate vessel in ghee until they turn creamish brown, at which point add the split cashewnut also and keep frying till cashew also turns light brown. Pour the mix into the Nei Payasam.
8. Add a couple of Tulsi (Basil leaves) if available on top and Aravana Paayasam is ready to serve the Lord and then partake by all. Retain it in the Uruli for some time.
Important Points to note
Practise makes it perfect – will take a few attempts to get it right. Dont get disheartened if 1st attempt is not a success.
Use medium flame in big burner for entire cooking
Preferably find a long ladle that has a rectangular top vs a round top.
Keep jaggery broken / semi powdery – easier to melt . Important that jaggery should melt only and not become a thick syrup. Good quality jaggery is key to success. Some versions use Palm jaggery or dark brown cane jaggery.
Don’t use long grained rice like Basmati. Some versions used Matta Rice – Parboiled Red Rice.
You know you are getting it right when you observe while stirring that it is not sticking to the side of the Urli.
The Payasam tastes best a day after cooking. If you have stored it in the fridge reheat before eating.
A Few Good Things 
Vishnu Sahasranamam – Insights & Nuggets
20 FebVishnu Sahasranamam was composed by Vedavyasa. This is revealed in the Mahabharata.
The Context
Krishna wanted Yudhisthira to meet Bhishma before he passed aways so that he could receive all the wisdom and knowledge that Bhishma had garnered all these years and that would provide guidance to Yudhisthira on the art of ruling the world, and most importantly the art of preparing oneself for the after – life. Along with Krishna the brothers & Yudishtra approached Bhishma who was lying on a bed of arrows awaiting the sacred hour for his departure. It was Magha Shukla Ekadasi also called as Bheeshma Ekadasi.
Six Questions from Yudhishtra
Kimekam Daivatam Loke Kim Vap Yekam Parayanam
Stuvantah Kam Ka Marchantah Prapnuyur Manavah Shubham
Ko Dharmah Sarva Dharmanam Bhavatah Paramo Matah
Kim Japanmuchyate Janthur Janma Samsara Bandhanat
Bhishma answer to all questions points to Vishnu the eternal father – the One God. After answering all his questions Bhishma says – ‘I will now advise you on His thousand names. Please listen to them with all attention.’
Are there exactly 1000 names in the Vishnu Sahasranamam
There are 1031 single names of the Lord in the Vishnu Sahasranamam. The extra 31 names are to be considered as an adjective qualifying the immediate following noun. There are 20 double names in the first 500 names and 11 double names in the second half of the chant.
90 names are repeated in this hymn, of them 74 are repeated twice, 14 are repeated thrice and 2 of them repeated 4 times.
What was the test given to Adi Shankara before he commenced his journey as a missionary.
At the end of his short but intense study , Shankara went to seek the blessings of his teacher Govindapadacharya, before commencing his journey. Acharya Govindapada tested Shankara by asking him to write an exhaustive commentary on the Vishnu Sahasranamam. He accomplished this great task – His is one of the commentaries on the Vishnu Sahasranamam. Govindapada satisfied with the proficiency , blessed him and set him on the road to service & action.
The Supreme cannot be defined so how do we have a thousand names.
The Supreme cannot be denominated by any name or defined in any language or expressed even vaguely in any literary form. He is beyond the known & the unknown. He is the illuminating principal of Consciousness that illuminates all experiences.
Yet he has many manifestations. Therefore he can have infinite names in terms of His manifestations. These thousand names of the Lord have been coined and given out by the Rishis. They were collected and strung together into a joyous hymn in the Anushtup Chanda metre to Vishnu, a garland of devotion and reverence by Vyasa.
Kanchi Maha Periyava on how Vishnu Sahasranama came to us.
Back in the 1940s or 50s, someone was interviewing Maha Periyavaa Kanchi Paramacharya Sri Chandrashekara Saraswathi Swamiji. That man recorded the interview using a tape recorder.Periyavaa then posed a question.
“Does anyone know which is the oldest known tape recorder?” Nobody was able to answer. Then Maha Periyavaa asked another question.
“How did Vishnu Sahasranamam come to us?”
Someone said Bheeshma gave it to us. All agreed.
Then Maha Periyavaa posed another query.
“When all were listening to Bheeshma on the battlefield, who took notes at Kurukshetra?”
Again silence.
Maha Periyavaa explained.
When Bheeshma was glorifying Krishna with Sahasranamam everyone was looking at him including Krishna and Vyasa. After he finished the 1000 Namas all opened their eyes.
The first to react was Yudhishthira. He said, ‘Pithamaha has chanted 1000 glorious names of Vasudeva.
All of us listened but none of us have noted it down. The sequence is lost’.
Then all turned to Krishna and asked for His help.
As usual, He said, ‘I also was listening like the rest of you. What can we do?’
Then all beseeched Krishna to help them recover the precious rendition.
Then Krishna said, ‘It can only be done by Sahadeva and Vyasa will write it down.’
Everyone wanted to know how Sahadeva could do it. Krishna replied,
‘Sahadeva is the only one amongst us wearing SHUDHHA SPATIKAM. If he prays to Shiva and does dhyanam he can convert the SPATIKA into waves of sound and Vyasa can write it down. Then, both Sahadeva and Vyasa, sat in the same place, under Bheeshma, where he had recited ‘Sahasranamam’.
Sahadeva started the dhyanam to recover the sound waves from the Spatika.
The nature of Spatika is that it will capture sounds in a calm environment which can be got back with proper dhyanam of Maheswara who is Swethambara and SPATIKA.
So, the world’s earliest tape recorder is this SPATIKA which gave us the wonderful Vishnu Sahasranamam. When Maha Periyavaar explained this all were stunned… From the Spatika recording, the grantha came to us through Vyasa.
Tags: How many names are there in Vishnu Sahasranama, Interesting facts about Vishnu Sahasranama, What is Bheeshma Ekadashi, What was the first commentary written by Adi Shankara, When was Vishnu Sahasranama revealed