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Taj Coorg @Madikeri – Embedded in Nature

12 Oct

When I start writing a blog the Title comes naturally – the Title represents in a few words the essence of what I carried back from the trip , but this time I struggled – there is so much to talk about at the Taj Coorg its difficult to capture it in a few words . This is both good and bad – good because there is so much to talk about and not so good because its missing its core positioning.

Coorg has transformed – 8 years back when I made my first trip to Club Mahindra the drive time was 4 1/2 hrs and the notable resorts were Orange County & Club Mahindra  – today the drive time from Bangalore is 6 – 7 hrs and there are many more properties and home stays that have mushroomed. With all the crowd you tend to stay away from the town and the sights outside and prefer staying in a resort – for that the Taj is a great property.

Taj Coorg at Madikeri - Embedded in Nature

The property at Madikeri is embedded in greenery. Its a 180 acre property (built up area of 30 acres) at an elevation of ~ 4500 feet on a lush verdant rainforest valley. The design is harmonious with nature and from every where – the lobby , restaurant , rooms you get an unobstructed view of the green , misty valley and the hills beyond.

Madikeri embedded wth greenary

The property has 63 spacious rooms in 4 varieties (Superior Charm, Deluxe Delight , Premium Indulgence Cottage , 5 Pool Villas and the Presidential Suite) – We stayed at the Premium Indulgence Cottage – a well laid out 1400 sft room that could easily accommodate 2 adults and 2 children. Room rates are from 18 – 35 K / night inclusive of breakfast.

Premium Indulgence Cottage

The Main Lobby is an impressive building that rises above 200 feet , built in a simplistic Zen Design it has an aura of great energy balance . Its open, large, spacious and has an excellent view of the valley.

Orange County Coorg

This main complex  houses the plunge pool , a small activity centre , the well designed Jiva Spa that offers a wide variety of treatment including some that are very local (Gudda Bath) and a well equipped Gym. The plunge pool is a big hit – its a heated pool with a mind boggling view of the rain forests and hills – and the kids never want to leave its premise.

plunge pool

Rooms are designed along the hill slope so a walk up to the main lobby / restaurant can be a tad tiring – but the electrical buggy service is always around to pick you up. The pavements / foot paths are concrete , well finished and have the stamp of perfection – so no fear of slipping on rocks and rubble as you walk up & down. Taj Coorg cottage path

The best things to do here is soak in the nature and go for long treks. The hotel organises two good treks to the nearby hills – easy 2 hr treks. Our guide Abhishek was exceptional – very knowledgeable and friendly. The highlight was our discussion on the Kurunji Flower – the rare blue flower that blooms once in 12 years and covers the hill slopes ( that why the Nilgiris are called the Blue Mountains) – its famous in Munnar but close to the Taj the hills we trekked are also full of Kurunji Flowers – so Sep 15 – Oct 15 , 2018 you may want to book a package at the Taj Right now.

Kurinji flowers in Hills

(And if you are wondering whats the khaki covering on our shoes – those are cloth flaps for leech protection)

The restaurant is  multi cuisine – serves a wide variety of dishes form India, to Local , Continental – there are 4 restaurants FernTree , Nelliki (Local Cuisine), Grill (Outdoor BBQ) , Dew a Small health Food Cafe and the Hive Bar – but we ended up going to the main one Fern Tree most of the time. Service & Food is good and dinner for a family of 4 is about INR 200o – INR 3000 (Without Liquor)

Orange County Taj Coorg

They have a few more activities – Sat evening Local Dance, Mountain Biking , Zip Lining , a well maintained but small conservatory, Pottery Studio , Baking & art classes for Kids , Archery , Virtual Golf ….  A large olympic size outdoor pool , an amphitheater for holding functions / marriages. 3G Network is available all across the property and Wi Fi at decent speed is also complimentary.

Unlike most properties in Coorg & Chickamagalur the Taj is not a coffee estate,  Its not a Spa /Yoga Retreat like Ananda or Shreyas or Swaswara, Its not a honeymoon Corporate Offsite location like Tamara – so the question – What is it ?

And thats the question I carry back with me – is the Taj Coorg becoming an upmarket Club Mahindra catering to the weekend family traffic from Bangalore – that would be sad and not doing justice to a property of this stature. Are noisy kids spoiling the peace and the harmony of the place ? Can you enjoy the divine view from the plunge pool when you have a few brats noisily tossing the ball around. Can you have a relaxed romantic candlelight dinner or a peaceful breakfast with a howling baby in the next table and a hassled mother desperate to calm it as the husband is busily taking photos.

We went on the Dushera weekend and the hotel was full – barring one Foreign Couple the entire crowd was Bangalore families with 1 – 2 kids each. I would urge the Taj to revisit their positioning and decide what is the clientele they would like to attract. Many properties today have a Kids above 12 only rule – maybe the Taj should explore something like that.

Running a property like this in the hills is not easy and the staff , the general manager do a great job …. but I would like to leave them with a  few suggestions

  1. Entertainment every evening – Live entertainment like light music , a Sat evening local dance is good but you need something 7 days
  2.  Nelliki needs something more than authentic local cuisine – its looking empty
  3. You need more restaurant space
  4. Too late but would have been good for the rooms to have been designed with a His / Her basin and a Powder room – with large rooms that can accommodate 4 , you need more bathroom space
  5. The Treks could be longer
  6. Yoga session starting at 8AM  is a no go – I normally attend Yoga sessions in all the properties that I visit but missed it out here – I don’t think you are attracting people who will do Yoga at 6 AM  – also with such an amazing property the Yoga sessions needs to be done outside in the midst of nature – not in a closed room
  7. I think you are underpriced – there are high end Homestay’s in Chickamagalur and Binsar that charge over 20 K / Night ( Primrose, Mary Buden estate etc) – yes its true that money does not buy class , but for a property of this stature if you want to target the right audience you need to relook at your rates.

As the friendly GM said – maybe I should come back when its not so crowded on a weekday , and I definitely will. Having been to Club Mahindra, Orange County, Windflower and now the Taj – I would strongly say that when it comes to the beauty of the property and the rooms – the Taj is the best in Coorg.

Club Mahindra Taj Coorg

Few More Snaps

Taj coorg Short map

Best Cottage in Coorg

 

Nellaki Taj Coorg

 

Greenaery in Taj Coorg

Coorg Cottage

 

Natures beauty

 

Places with Greens in Taj Coorg

 

Place for peace

Singapore & Bali in 8 days

26 Apr

SE Asia is a travellers paradise – nature has showered its goodness on the region, its reasonably economical and everything works with clockwork precision.

Singapore is normally the 1st international destination for most Indians. Then they graduate to Bangkok, KL, Phuket, Krabi, Langkawi, …… we did all of this and it was now time for Glorious Bali.

Unfortunately there is no direct flight from Bangalore to Bali, so we planned a trip Via Singapore (3 nights at Singapore & 5 nights at Bali). We have been to Singapore many times – but the city always beckons – Singapore can  be described in a few words – small, efficient , safe & a perfect place for a family holiday.

You can spend a relaxed week at Singapore that includes a few days at Sentosa –  in the 3 days that we had we wanted to focus on the the new attractions – sights we had not been to before – Universal studio, Gardens by the Bay & the fascinating Art & Science museum – and with children a trip to the Singapore Zoo & Jurong Bird Park is a must. (Other attractions include Night Safari, Duck Boat, Little India & Chinatown, The Science Centre, The Red Dot Museum, A walk by the marina bay and the Merlon & the underwater park in Sentosa are worth a visit.

Gardens by the bay was the highlight of the visit – two giant air conditioned  indoor canopies that house a world of greenery. We were lucky to see the Tulips in full bloom and it was a riot of colours.

Gardens by the bay

The recently opened Arts & Science museum is also fascinating –  a 1500-square-metre digital universe, where 15 spectacular art installations are brought to life and evolve in real-time through visitor presence and participation.

arts and science museum

Universal Stuido is a key attraction for the kids – it has the following 7 theme parks – New York, Sci – Fi City, Ancient Egypt, Madagascar, Far Far Away, Water World and the Lost World.

I felt that the clock had not moved since 1999 when I first visited at LA. Its the same set of rides and shows – hardly any evolution. You can spend a day if you want to visit every ride – but we were there by 930 and left by 3. (The fast track tickets helped us beat the Q). The scariest ride here is the Battlestar Galactica – it can really shake you up

universal studio

We also managed to walk down Clark Quay and have dinner with some friends – the Quay is the party zone area – we left by 10 PM but this is where you can party till early morning

clark quay

We stayed at the Grand Hyatt at Scotts Road / Orchard intersection – very centrally located. Distances in Singapore are 10 – 15 min by car to almost all attractions – the Bird park is located farthest ( 30 min drive) – but is soon expected to move next to the Zoo

Other Basis Information 

  • Silk Air has a convenient morn 950 AM flight from Bangalore that lands Singapore at 430 PM
  • 1 Sing $ ~ INR 50
  • Cab Fares vary from $ 10 – $20 ( Airport to Hotel ~ $20)
  • Indian Food – not a problem – head to Little India
  • Tickets for the attractions cost from $25 – $50 / person , book online in advance you save money and avoid the Q

2nd Leg of our  tour : Enchanting Bali

On day 3 we took the 630 PM evening flight from Singapore to Bali – its a 2 hrs 30 min flight , and landed at 9.50 PM. You don’t need Visa at Bali and your passport is your entry – you can zip past immigration in 10 min and reach your hotel in 25 – 30 min. The airport is at Denpasar, located in the south of the island.

Bali is Not a City . Its a province of Indonesia which is located between the islands of Java and Lombok island, Bali island is also commonly referred to as The Island Of Thousands Temples, The Island of Gods, and Bali Dwipa, Bali also has several small islands including the island of Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan Island, Nusa Ceningan island, Serangan Island and Menjangan Island. Its a bit like Goa and distances between tourist attractions can be as far as 2 – 3 hrs.

bali-cities-map

Background on Bali & Indonesia

Indonesia is an Archipelago with over 2000 islands of which less than 50 are populated. It was a Hindu & Buddhist country in the 600 – 1200 period before the conversion to a Muslim state started happening. It was colonised by the Dutch for ~ 250 years and was under Japanese control for a few years during the 2nd world war. Indonesia is the worlds largest Muslim country. They share the same language and script with the Malaysians.

Bali has strong Hindu roots – Mythology says that the great Sage Agastya is supposed to have travelled to Bali & Java to spread Hinduism 10 – 15,000 years back. 90% of Bali is still Hindu and the area is dotted with thousands of temples. Shiva , Vishnu & Uma are the main deities – and  a lot of what they do is linked to the Ramayana and Mahabharata, but the festivals they celebrate are different from those in India. Would be wonderful to do a research on how Hinduism spread & flourished in  Cambodia , Vietnam , & Malaysia thousands of years back.

(More info on bali here : http://www.baliglory.com/2012/10/bali-history-about-island-god.html)

We stayed at the Grand Hyatt Resorts at Nusa Dua which is at the Southern part of Bali. Within Nusa Dua there is a gated enclave designed like a park that houses most of the large resorts – Westin , Hilton , Hyatt etc.

The Grand Hyatt is a sprawling 650 room beach front property with rooms and villas. It is an oasis of peace and tranquility. Quality of rooms and service was excellent. Rates are comparable to the 5 Star rates in India.

Bali has a sense of energy balance – the place is blessed , you can feel the vibes. The people are calm and relaxed (not restless like in India) , soft spoken and seem to be at peace with themselves. there is a sense of contentment and joy and it was wonderful to soak in this environment for 5 nights.

grand hyatt resorts

Tourists come to Bali and spend weeks and months – but if you have 4 days here is a itinerary to follow

Day – 1 : City Tour  9 AM to 6 PM

  • The Goa Gajah or the elephant cave
  • Artisans Village
  • Plantation walk
  • A Visit to a Mount Agung – A live Volcano that last erupted in 1996 (View it from a  Distance – Trek takes 1/2 a day)
  • Shopping at Ubud (Lunch at an Indian Restaurant – Queens)
  • Monkey Forest

A temple supposedly built by sage Agastya – it was excavated recently. 

temple in bali

Mount Agung – one of the active volcanoes in Malaysia

mount agung

An organic farm that grows Cocoa, Coffee , Spices – they served us a tray of over 5 different types of coffee .

organic farm

Day – 2 : City Tour 9 AM to 7 PM

  • Butterfly park
  • Jatiluwih Rice Terraces (UNESCO World Heritage site) *
  • Hot Spring
  • Floating temple (Pura Ulun Danu Bratan)
  • Tanah Lot – Sunset
  • The other 2 UNESCO World Heritage sites in Bali are the Pakerisan Valley & the Taman Ayun temple ( We did not have the time to visit these beautiful places)

A 2 hr drive from Nusa Dua our first stop on day 2 was a small but pretty butterfly park.

nusa dua

The Jatiluwih rice terraces are located in a hilly part of Bali – the weather is cool and pleasant and it feels like a hill station. The undulating greenery is soothing to the eyes. Spend some time here and take a relaxed walk by the rice fields and be with nature – its calming & serene. Not very crowded as getting here takes almost 3 hrs.

jatiluwih rice terraces

Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, or Pura Bratan, is a major Shivaite and water temple  The temple complex is located on the shores of Lake Bratan in the mountains near Bedugul.

Built in 1663, this temple is used for offerings ceremony to the Balinese water, lake and river goddess Dewi Danu, due to the importance of Lake Bratan as a main source of irrigation in central Bali. The 11 stories of pelinggih meru dedicated for Shiva and his consort Parvathi. Buddha statue is also present inside this temple.

Lake Bratan is known as the Lake of Holy Mountain due to the fertility of this area. Located 1200 m above sea level, it has a cold tropical climate.

Its a beautiful temple with landscaped gardens and a large lake – we reached here in the evening around 4 PM and it was a wonderful sight.

pura ulun danu bratan

The Tanah Lot temple is best visited at sunset or sunrise. It was built and has been a part of Balinese mythology for centuries. The temple is one of seven sea temples around the Balinese coast. Each of the sea temples was established within eyesight of the next to form a chain along the south-western coast. This temple reminded me of the Shore temple at Mahabalipuram and the fact that maybe the Pallavas or their descendants had some influence in the design and construction of these temples at Bali.

In addition to Balinese mythology, the temple was significantly influenced by Hinduism. At the base of the rocky island, venomous sea snakes are believed to guard the temple from evil spirits and intruders. The temple is purportedly protected by a giant snake, the temple complex has a snake park.

tanah lot temple

The Bali temples are well marketed but are no comparison in size, stature and design to what we see in S India.

Day 2 was a long trip and we were back only by 730 PM

Day – 3 : At the Resort , Shopping and the Devdan Show

With 5 pools, 5 restaurant , amazing green landscape and a great beach we had to spend one day at the Grand Hyatt Resort and most of day 3 was spent there.

resort swimming pool

Right next to the Resort is a beautiful mall called the Bali Place where we stopped by for some shopping and late lunch and in the evening visited the spectacular Devdan show.

This is a live 2 hr show ( like a Las vegas show) with light & sound effects that presents the different art and cultural treasures of the Indonesia archipelago. A well choreographed program it was indeed a sight to watch. ( Tickets are expensive ~ 80$ / person)

bali place mall

We ended the day with dinner at an Indian restaurant and felt like a millionaire as the bill was 1 M Indonesian Rupiah. ( that is about $ 70 or Rs 5000)

Day – 4 : Cruise to Lembogan island and water sports 

The last day was a cruise to the Lembogan Island – this is about 1 hr from the Nusa Dua harbour. You spend the day here – its a picnic, you leave the resort at 7.45 AM and are back by 5 PM  . Activities include snorkelling, diving, Aquanauts, kayaking & banana boat. The package includes vegetarian lunch (and we were pleasantly surprised to get good vegetarian food)

The girls were brave enough to go diving while we experimented with Aquanauts. This is the easy way to go to the seabed (10 metres) as you get down with oxygen masks to see the flare and fauna below. Kids above 9 are allowed.

aquanauts bali hai

That brought us to our last supper and the chef was kind enough to prepare a meal of paratha , dal and curry for us ( Food at Bali & the Hyatt is a bit challenging for vegetarians and the Balinese dishes are not as nice as the Thai ones – during the trip we were mainly on Pasta / Pizza )

family dinner

That brought us to the end of a lovely 8 day trip. I am thankful to the weather gods and all the people who helped in making the trip successful – the travel agents in India , the tour operators in Bali (Bali Hai Cruises who managed all the bookings for us msuwitra@yahoo.com), my brother who helped us in Singapore , the friendly tourist guide Karma in Bali, the staff at The Grand Hyatt at Singapore & Bali , the kids who were wonderful all thru the trip, for SQ that took off and landed on time , to the immigration officials where the lines were zipping and our friends from Mantri – it really helps to go on a holiday as two families – its a lot more fun.

A big Thank You to all for a memorable trip.

memorable trip

PS : Additional contact for car booking – we did not use this since we were a group of 8 and had booked a van – but was strongly recommended by our friends for a family of 4 : Driver Name Abbe +62 878 60570999

 

A few Good Places ….

24 Jan

I enjoy travelling – and a lot of people keep asking me on good places to go to. I have compiled a list of these places and will keep adding to this as and when I spot something unique.

Talayar-Valley-Bungalow

Places I have visited in the last few years

16

 

Others in my list

North 

6

 

East 

  • Sikkim Village Walks
  • Glenburn Tea Estate Darjeeling
  • Mayfair Palm Beach – Bhubaneswar

1

West & Central 

 

Unknown-1

South

  • http://www.javarainresorts.com – Chickamagalur, Opened recently
  • Wild Planet Jungle Resort http://wildplanetresort.com/index.php/how-to-reach/
  • Orange County – Kabini
  • Kumarakom lake resort – http://www.kumarakomlakeresort.in
  • Spice Tree Resorts – Munnar http://spicetreemunnar.com
  • Briar Tea Bungalows – http://teabungalows.com/talayar-valley-bungalow-munnar/
  • Niraamaya – Cardamom Club, Thekkady, http://www.niraamaya.in/thekkady.html
  • Malabar House – Fort Kochi
  • Niraamaya Retreats Backwaters & Beyond, Kumarakom, http://www.niraamaya.in/Kumarakom.html
  • Yacht @ Goa – http://www.niraamaya.in/foxy-lady.html
  • Aanavilasam , Luxury Plantation House Thekaddy – http://www.aanavilasam.com
  • Paradise Plantation – http://www.paradisaretreat.com
  • Windermere Estate Munnar – http://windermeremunnar.com
  • Turtle Bay Beach Resort – Marvanthe
  • Meriyanda Nature Lodge Coorg – http://www.meriyanda.com
  • Taj Vivanta Coorg – https://vivanta.tajhotels.com/en-in/madikeri-coorg/
  • Fishermans Cove Chennai
  • Kuteera – Log Cottage homestay in Chickamagalur http://www.kuteera.com
  • Kabini – Red Earth http://www.redearthkabini.in
  • Coorg – Old Kent Estate , http://www.oldkentestate.com

Independent-Cottages-at-Niraamaya-Ca

 

A few Good websites 

A Few Good Places ….Over 100 amazing Resorts & Homestay across India

24 Jan

This is a rare list of the most unique offbeat resorts, villas and home-stays across India. I have travelled to many of them over the years. The common link to all these is Exotic, Nature and Serenity. So make the most of the long weekends in 2021 and plan your holidays now. Finding a good property is the first big step towards a great holiday.

The Blog Lists

  • A Review of all the places I have visited in the last 10 years
  • A list of amazing properties that are in my list to visit, segregated by regions – South, North, East & West

A woman wades in the pool of the Ganga Pool Villa at Ananda in the Himalayas, The Palace Estate, Narendra Nagar, Tehri Garhwal, Uttarakhand, India. The Ganga Pool Villa is a one-bedroom private villa with its own infinity pool.

A Few Good Places we have visited in the last few years

 

And the places I want to visit … 

South

  • Rivemist Resorts, about 70 Km from Chickmagalur near Hornadu is a rare treat in the lush green of W Ghats ~ 4950 feet above MSL. The greatest + of this wonderful nature retreat is the waterfall and the Netravati river that flows through the resort ground – https://rivermistresorts.com
  • On the banks of the Kabini, a small boutique resort to experience the beauty of the jungles in African styled tented accommodation, The Bison Resorthttps://thebisonresort.com
  • The Evolve group is a class beyond compare for luxury & service, Evolve (Orange County) – Kabini
  • Among this amalgamation of waterways and forests lies Red Earth Kabini. An unpretentious resort located on the backwaters of the Kabini Dam, Red Earth http://www.redearthkabini.in
  • Villa Urvinkhan is a unique concept of creating a luxury resort with the warmth of a home, Chickamagalur –  http://www.villaurvinkhan.com
  • A warm and comfortable home stay located in the foothills of Mullayangiri with Fertile stretch of iron enriched soil ideal for coffee cultivation. This house is located in the middle of lush green coffee plantation, Hence the name Thotadhahalli means estate village in kannada.- http://www.thotadahalli.com
  • Budget Friendly homestay on the banks of the Bhadra river, Shanti Kunj  – https://shanthikunnj.com
  • A Newly opened resort at Chickamagalur, Java Rain resorts http://www.javarainresorts.com
  • A scenic beauty by the river, Meriyanda Nature Lodge Coorghttp://www.meriyanda.com
  • An authentic Coorg Homestay ,  Gowri Nivas (Luxury Homestay), http://www.gowrinivas.com
  • Coorg Wilderness Resort – At Coorg Wilderness Resort we bring you to the very doorstep of nature, offering a rare opportunity to be part of the wild, yet with every possible comfort and luxury. https://www.coorgwildernessresort.in
  • Nestled in a lush and thriving coffee plantation, Old Kent Estates takes one back to the period of the British Raj.  and is surrounded by a large English garden and acres of plantation and woodlands – Coorg, www.oldkentestate.com
  • On the Vembanad lake, a 2 hr drive from Ernakulam, Kumarakom lake resort – http://www.kumarakomlakeresort.in
  • Experience harmony with nature at the Spice Tree Resorts – Munnar http://spicetreemunnar.com
  • Tranquil is run with the efficiency of a resort but with the personalized touch of your hosts – Tranquil Waynad (Luxury Homestay), https://www.tranquilresort.com
  • Milton Abbott Estate is a quintessential late-19th century British colonial estate bungalow with an old world charm perfect for a laidback holiday – Ooty, https://www.saffronstays.com/view/milton-abbot-estate-a-private-1865-vintage-heritage-bungalow-estate-by-the-ooty-golf-course-TI7tLWKUqiCdam6m
  • Tamara Kodai – Set high in the hills of Kodaikanal, The Tamara Kodai provides a luxury, heritage experience unlike any other. This picturesque hotel dates back to the 1840s. The building itself was originally called Baynes Bungalow owned by British District Judge, Mr. Baynes. https://www.thetamara.com/kodaikanal-resort/
  • Chidambaram Vilas – Recreates an authentic experience of the luxurious Chettinad lifestyles of the last century, through a heritage Chettiar palace that preserves 108 years of history http://www.chidambaravilas.com
  • The Bangla – A heritage hotel in the heart of Chettinad. http://www.thebangala.com
  • Saratha Vilas, built by a wealthy Tamil merchant in the early 1900s, is a prime example of the luxurious mansions unique to the heritage of the Chettinad region. The 34500 sq. ft. property, including buildings, courtyards and gardens, has been painstakingly restored, and converted into a ten-bedroom boutique hotel by two French architects passionate about the preservation of Chettinad and its history, https://sarathavilas.com
  • Palai De Mahe – An address in the French Quarter with a distinct colonial stamp.Palais de Mahe lies close to the sea side promenade, barely 50 metres from the cool breezes and gentle rumblings of the Bay of Bengal.
    This signature hotel – with its majestic courtyard, deep verandahs, attractive pillars and period furniture – combines south Indian fire and flavor with French intensity and fervor to bring you an experience that is in every way unforgettable.An address in the French Quarter with a distinct colonial stamp. Palais de Mahe lies close to the sea side promenade, barely 50 metres from the cool breezes and gentle rumblings of the Bay of Bengal. This signature hotel – with its majestic courtyard, deep verandahs, attractive pillars and period furniture – combines south Indian fire and flavor with French intensity and fervor to bring you an experience that is in every way unforgettable.https://www.cghearth.com/palais-de-mahe
  • Maison Perumal – A Franco-Tamil heritage in Pondicherry. Maison Perumal is a period bungalow that we had the privilege to turn into a distinguished boutique hotel. Located in the Tamil quarter of Pondicherry, this 18th-century house exudes a legacy that reflects the French colonial aura of this small seaside town. https://www.cghearth.com/maison-perumal
  • CGH Earth Properties – has amazing properties across South India in multiple cities, mostly in Kerala https://www.cghearth.com

North 

  • A beautiful mountain getaway by the river – Keiths Cottage is a rare find which I am keen to visit soon. Keith’s has been build around the simplicity of nature and the joys of our childhood. The freshness of air, the run by the brook, the chirping of birds, the fruits & vegetables that grew in the backyard, the songs that stole our heart or just watching the wide sky with an empty mind. Not to forget the sumptuous organic home cooked food. Life was always meant to be simple and we hope to bring back some of those memories to everyone who visit us.https://keithscottages.com.
  • 8,825 feet above sea level in the Pir Panjal range of the Himalayas, stands a world-class resort that captures the beauty of its pristine setting. With majestic views of the Affarwat Peaks, The Khyber Himalayan Resort & Spa is spread over 7 acres of a sylvan coniferous forest https://www.khyberhotels.com
  • Itmenaan Estate is a fairytale getaway in a peaceful rural setting in the Kumaon Himalayas. http://www.itmenaanlodges.com 
  • Vana almost seems a contradiction – a forest touching it on one side, and nestled between the city of Dehradun and the hill station of Mussoorie. Vana Retreat – Adults only (Vana Retreats | Wellness | Wellbeing), https://vana.co.in
  • Located on the fringes of protected Sal forests West of Dehradun, nestled in 23 acres, in quiet environs with nothing but Nature as company is Vishranti, A Doon Valley Resort & Spa.
    Vishranti Resorts (Vishranti Resorts and Spa in Dehradun | Luxury Farm Stay) – https://vishrantiresorts.com/en/
  • Sophisticated luxury and simplicity far far away in a remote Kumaon Village – Leti 360, https://www.shaktihimalaya.com/kumaon.php
  • Samode Safari Lodge, Bandhavgarh National Park, one of the best places to spot a Tiger, https://www.samode.com/safarilodge/
  • An oasis of tranquility in the desert, The Serai, Near Jaisalmer, One of the 12 Luxury Relais & Chateaux properties in India, https://www.relaischateaux.com/us/india/serai-rajasthan-jaisalmer
  • Tree of Life resort & spa – Jaipur, https://www.treeofliferesorts.com/jaipur/

East 

  • Rajbari Bawali – Explore the charm of a royal Zamindar household in Kolkata, https://www.therajbari.com
  • Sikkim Village Walks, Shakti Himalaya, a property that also owns Shakti Himalayas Leti 360 in Kumaon – https://www.shaktihimalaya.com/sikkim.php
  • Glenburn is a heavenly little plantation retreat that lies on a hillock above the banks of the River Rungeet, high in the Himalayas, overlooked by the mighty Kanchenjunga mountain range. Its a 100 year old property. Glenburn Tea Estate Darjeeling – http://www.glenburnteaestate.com
  • Mayfair Palm Beach, The best place to stay and explore Bhubaneshwar, Puri and Konark. https://www.mayfairhotels.com/mayfair-gopalpur/
  • Balakhana – Stay in a stately early 19th century French villa. The architectural heirloom of a distinguished Bengali Zamindari family, who still live there on a 16 acre estate. https://www.balakhana.com
  • Itachuna Rajbari, A taste of Royalty. http://www.itachunarajbari.com
  • Jhargram Palace – the current residence of the Malla Dev Royal family. It is a structure combining the Italian and Islamic architecture model. About 10 rooms on the ground floor have been converted into a Heritage Hotel run by the family. Set in carefully laid lawns and gardens which was built in 1922 CE. http://www.jhargrampalace.com

West & Central 

  • Luxury Forest Resorts. Pugdundee Safaris is recognized as one of India’s leading responsible safari companies. With six intimate jungle lodges in Central India and many bespoke wilderness experiences it presents the very best of the Indian subcontinent wildlife & hospitality. https://www.pugdundeesafaris.com
  • Tree House resort near Lonawala , Machanhttps://www.themachan.com
  • Ahilya Fort Hotel – MP, In the year 2000, Prince Richard Holkar, thedescendant and son of the last Maharaja of Indore, converted his home in Ahilya Wada into a guest residence, today known around the world as the Ahilya Fort Hotel. https://ahilyafort.com
  • Ayurveda and Yoga on the beach. SwaSwara means your inner voice and true to its name, this is a place of natural harmony to release, refocus and recalibrate the self. Swaswara Gokarna. https://www.cghearth.com/swaswara
  • https://www.tajhotels.com/en-in/taj-safaris/ – Wild Life safari , Luxury
  • Atmantan – Luxury health and wellness resort at Mulshi , near Lonawala – https://www.atmantan.com

 

A Few Good websites 

Niraamaya Resorts – A Hidden Jewel in Kovalam (Near Trivandrum)

20 Oct

ll Sarve Bhavatu Sukhina
Sarve Santu Niraamaya
Sarve Bhadrani Pashyantu
Ma Kaschit Dukhabhagbhaved ll

means …. let all be happy, let all be healthy, let all be safe, let the sorrow not come in the life…

Thats a good summary of what the Niraamaya Resort at Kovalam promises and delivers. Great things don’t need marketing – Niraamaya conceptualised and designed by a German doctor has been around for 20+ years mainly catering to European clientele. Recently (6 years back) it was acquired by Jupiter Investments (Rajeev Chandrasekaran) – and it was purely by chance that I came to know of it while at Shreyas glancing at the exclusive list of Relais & Chateau properties in india. The minutes I saw their website I knew I had to visit this place. Its old construction but constant renovation makes it look new.

Niraamaya Resort at Kovalam

A Relais & Châteaux property (and there are a handful of them in India) Niraamaya Surya Samudra is a enchanting property on a cliff side with a spectacular view of the Arabian sea. What makes it unique are its two pristine beach fronts that are secluded and as good as private. its serene, calm and has great energy balance.

Relais & Châteaux property

The property boasts of 33 rooms & villas spread over ~ 12 acres of lush greenery. 13 Rock garden rooms (Set amidst greenery – no Sea View, but you can hear the rumbling sea) and 20 sea facing Villas in varying shapes and sizes (Heritage Classic, Banyan Tree Bungalow, Heritage Premium , Octagonal Presidential Suite) with rates varying from Rs 12,500 – Rs 30,000 / night. Rooms are perfect for 2 adults and a child and the rates are inclusive of Breakfast , Wi Fi, airport pick up & drop. (Rates are dynamic and tend to get higher in peak season). Well landscaped gardens, nice manicured coblestone walkways, rustic statues and figurines, hammocks swaying in the breeze, coconut tree – it feels heavenly and you can see the eye for detail in every small thing

Rock garden rooms

Picture taken at 6 AM – at sunrise

You can start your day with Yoga , feeling the breeze and hearing the thundering waves – its a wonderful experience. Niraamaya is not a Yoga retreat like Ananda / Shreyas – they do have 30 min group classes in the evening at 5.30 PM , but most sessions are 1 : 1 paid basis appointments.

The Spa infrastructure is outstanding and was recently rated the best in the country. They offer a wide variety of treatments – a 90 min session with well trained therapists and a wow ambience can cost you ~ Rs 5000. I liked the total package – the massage was good but not the best I have had.

Niraamaya yoga retreat centre was recently rated the best in the country.

The property has a main restaurant, a speciality restaurant and a small bar – all overlook the sea. the quality of food is diverse – Indian, Continental, Kerala specialities. (We are Veg – but I am told that Sea Food is their speciality) The staff are wonderful, the food quality is excellent, service is fast and the rates are reasonable (Family of 4 veg dinner ~ Rs 2500) – the highlight is the level of customisation that they are always ready to do. The people who run the restaurant come with great pedigree – the manager comes with experience in Oberoi & ITC while the Chef has international experience from Miami and has recently authored a culinary book. (The Restaurant is open air, no AC and I wonder how they will accommodate people if they are sold out, also they need to combine their multiple menu’s into one booklet – too many sheets of paper to shuffle)

quality of food is diverse - Indian, Continental, Kerala specialities

Some of the rare herbs for cooking come from the Organic garden – its small but does have a nice collection of Organic plants. walking in its midst you can breathe health and vitality – and I always took the extra 100 m to walk past the Organic garden to reach my room.

Hotel are having rare herbs for cooking come from the Organic garden

 

Every evening there is a wonderful cultural program at the restaurant from 730 – 830 PM. we were entrained to some wonderful Kuchipudi, Veena, Flute  and Kathakali performance during our stay.

they perform wonderful cultural program at the restaurant

A small but efficient Gym, a lovely pool (quiet deep, as it is made from a scooped out rock) and a small conference room that can cater to 20 people are the other amenities in the resort. Rooms are large and come with a TV/ Cable Connection. Wi Fi is free across the property but is patchy , so is the phone signal – which is good. They have room service from 7 AM. (Only challenge with the room we were in  – The cane Sofa is not comfortable and the Mattress / Bed is not Ortho – so a bit challenging for a restful sleep)

With all this in the resort you would not want to step out – but if you do you have a few options

The famous Padmanabha Swami temple dedicated to lord Vishnu is 30 min away – they have strict dress codes , its supposedly the richest temple in the world now, don’t expect much on Spirituality, but yes a strong dose of Traditional Beliefs – the temple is well laid out and is not as crowded as Guruvayur or Tirupathi.

There are a few other temples worth visiting including one dedicated to Parashurama (Mythology says that Kerala was created from Parashurama’s axe) and a temple of a 100 Ganeshas that is run by the Indian Army. Poovar is close by – 20 min drive and thats where you can take a boat ride in the backwaters. On your boat ride you can spot a fruit that looks exactly like a Mango – its called Mangova, a highly poisonous fruit – one fruit can spell the death knell for a 100 people.

parshurama templeClose to Poovar is a Elephant Riding / bathing spot. Kovalam is also a stones throw away – but with the beach at the resort you don’t want to visit a public beach. I am told that a few nurseries / Orchid gardens are also close by. (Mon is a holiday in Kerala – so please plan your holiday accordingly)

Trivandrum is a small well maintained green city, the airport is efficient and the streets and roads are in great shape. Not much to see in the city barring a visit to the small museum and the zoo if one is inclined.

Kanyakumari is only 80 km away –  it is a one track road and took us nearly 2 hrs (we started at 7 AM). You can cover by 4 PM the famous Suchindram temple, Vivekananda Rock and the Kanyakumari temple and the Travancore Kings palace and be back in Trivandrum by 430 PM.

The Suchindram temple is unique in the whole of India in that it is dedicated to three different deities represented by one image in the sanctum and is called Sthanumalayan (Sthanu-Shiva; Maal-Vishnu and Ayan-Brahma) kovil. The temple is rich in sculpture and architecture and a visitor to this temple is amply rewarded with the sight of such exquisite art of hundreds of years old. Fortunately the temples were not crowded and we got excellent darshan in a few minutes.

Vivekananda Rock – the spot where Swami Vivekananda meditated in what he called ” the last bit of Indian rock” for 3 days – the monument is well maintained and its a short 10 min boat ride. Regular tickets are Rs 34 but VIP tickets at Rs 169 gets you fast access to the boat ride.

Suchindram temple

The Padmanabha Palace of the Travancore Maharaja is in TN but maintained by the Kerala Government. Its one of the largest wooden palaces in the world and is well maintained. Palace + antique museum budget for 45 min.

Given that Trivandrum is just a 1 hr flight from Bangalore – would strongly recommend this trip. Indigo has a 9 AM flight that gets you into the resort by 11 AM. The departure timing are also convenient as the Indigo flight leaves Trivandrum for Bangalore at 4.55 PM. A 3 day trip is good – but we stayed for 4 days in October – the rains are almost over – so the landscape is lush green. It is very humid and the temp is 30+ , needless to say the best time to visit is Nov / Dec / Jan.

Website : http://www.niraamaya.in – they have another property in Thekkady that is supposedly equally interesting with only 6 exclusive Villas – I am adding that to my list.

 

Niraamaya Resorts

Some more Views of the Property – all photos shot on my iPhone 6

Niraamaya Beach View

 

Nilaamaya Resorts

 

Niraamaya View

Sunset view from Niraamaya Resort

 

 

Primrose Villa – Luxury homestay in Chickamagalur

28 Sep

Tucked away amidst 500 acres of verdant greenery and surrounded by mystical hills shrouded in fog, in the Northern part of Chickamagalur is the wonderful new Home Stay – Primrose Villa.

The word home stay normally connotes basic and frugal – Primrose Villa is contrarian – its probably the only Home Stay which on luxury and service can put a 7 Star hotel to shame.

Home Stay - Primrose Villa

The property is spread across 5 Acres and is part of the 500 Acres Bagane Hedol Coffee Plantation. The Vision behind Primrose Villa is Sumitra who belongs to the 5th generation of the family running the plantation. And she has designed a place that is regal , ethnic and yet classy and contemporary. The family may well find its name in the Forbes list of Karnataka – but the ambience here is down to earth, humble, the level of service  is  very warm and customised and is personally led by Sumitra who has an immaculate eye for perfection. (The family has S Indian Iyengar roots – thats where the level of hospitality and simplicity comes from)

Primerose Villa

PS : Don’t miss the Raja Ravi Varma painting below which I sam sitting with the gracious and wonderful hostess Sumitra 

The property has 7 Villas and 5 rooms. The rooms are part of the main building but the Villas are spread out and designed in a manner that it provides 100% privacy. Each Villa is set on 1/2  Acre land , is very spacious and has its own sit out and private garden. The rooms are smaller and best suited for couples.

 Best Homestay in Chikmangalur

The food is delectable – and you can choose from a wide variety – Indian , Malnad ,    Veg , Non Veg , Continental …. and the highlight is its 24 by 7 availability. You can have breakfast at 11AM and Lunch at 5PM (My bengali friends make note – this suits your timing perfectly) – and its all served fresh and customised. The Rava Dosa is outstanding, so are the Paneer Tikkas, the Phulkas are fresh and fluffy and the Chocolate cake is delicious. My friends devoured the boneless chicken and Fish with gusto – on taste, aesthetics and prompt service its 10/10 on food  – this is one place where you should not plan to be on a diet. Most of the ingredients come from their family farm – and thats what makes it so fresh and tasty.

wide variety of lunch - Indian , Malnad ,Veg , Non Veg , Continental

The property is located at 4700 feet and grows some of the finest Arabica coffee in the country (Coffee grown above 3500 feet is considered Premium). This part of Chickamagalur receives over 100 inches of rain in the monsoon, thats what makes the greenery lush and thick. The Bhadra wild life sanctuary is just a 40 min drive away and the greenery from the estate melts into that of the sanctuary – so be prepared for the occasional wild boar or the rare pug marks of a tiger in your morning trek. The roof of the property is the perfect place to star gaze and immerse yourself in the hills and forests that surround you for miles. The air is fresh and nippy. In the morning the forests and hills are cloaked in mist, which very soon turn to a bright blue sky and by the time its dusk you see a riot of colors  blending in the skyline.

perfect place to star gaze and immerse yourself in the hills and forests.

Its calm and quiet and the perfect break for the common man or for celebrities and we were pleasantly surprised to meet S Janaki the legendary singer spending a few days at Primrose.

S Janaki

Activities in the Property are limited to treks, reading books from a well stocked library, watching TV, playing Carrom / Board Games in the common room. Horse riding is available from Oct and a pool room / entertainment room is coming up soon.  Thats a lot for a home stay.

The location of the property is excellent and there is a lot to see close by. Mullayangiri the tallest peak of Karnataka at 6300 feet is a mere 30 min drive away ( The last stretch of the drive is tough – so have a good powerful vechile)

Mullayangir

Further away on the same route are the Buttermilk falls and Baba Budangiri Caves. The former is a must visit but you can skip the latter. The drive down this stretch is beautiful and will bring memories of the Scottish highlands and William Wordsworth.

Buttermilk falls

Lots of waterfalls, treks, lakes to see nearby. Belur, Halebidu, Shravanabelagola are best covered while driving from Bangalore or on the return. Most people miss out on the Belavadi temple – another must visit. If you have time you can visit Sringeri & Agumbe a 2 – 3 hrs drive on the picturesque W Ghat. A  2- 3 day trip is what you must plan for at Primrose.

Other Basic facts 

  • Drive time from Bangalore is 5 hrs (with a 30 min break) Roads are excellent
  • Connectivity is patchy and there are few corners where you can get good strong signal.
  • There are no TV’s in the individual villas & room , but there is a TV in the meeting / conference room which can house 8 – 10 people

Primriose Villa was recently featured on the Conde Nast as the 50 best new properties in the world. For more details visit them at

http://www.primrosevillas.com

Bangalore Contact for Booking :  + 91 9880932423, kb@primrosevillas.com

We were here to celebrate  5 years in my current company with my team – we loved it . The highlight of the place is the quality of service and the warm touch of homeliness –  when we were leaving they packed us a sandwich bag and water – just like relatives do. We joked that the only thing missing was the customary  Coconut and Kumkum  – and maybe they will give that if the wives are in tow – thats why I am planning a return with my family very soon.

Thanks Sumitra and team for a memorable trip

Memorable trip

 

Picture Perfect Krakow – In 36 Hrs

12 Jul

When most Indians thinks of Europe for travel  – they  think of London, Paris, Rome – Italy , Switzerland and maybe Amsterdam. All these are great cities and I have loved visiting them but Krakow, Prague and Budapest have been on my to do visit list for long – and finally I managed a weekend trip to Krakow.

A little bit about Krakow & Poland 

  • The history of Poland results from the migrations of Slavs who established permanent settlements on the Polish lands during the Early Middle Ages – around 966 AD. The country adopted Catholic Christianity.
  • Around 1795 after a series of invasions and partitions of Polish territory carried out by the Russian Empire, the Kingdom of Prussia, and the Austrian Habsburg Monarchy Poland ceased to exist as a country till 1918.  After 21 years in 1939 Russia and Nazi Germany invaded Poland and demolished the country  during WW 2.
  • Till 1990 Poland was part of the East Bloc – a communist country – the country has flourished since 1990 under a open market – thanks to their hard work ethics.
  • Krakow is the 2nd largest city in Poland after Warsaw – its history goes back to 966 AD and over the last 1100 years it has miraculously avoided and destruction – though it was the Capital of Poland for more than 700 years. Poland today has a population of 38 M – and Krakow a population of less than 1M
  • The Polish language – with close similarity to Russian was developed around 1600 – Poland has many neighbours – Russia, Lithuania, Ukraine, Czechoslovakia, Belarus, Slovakia and Germany
  • Krakow can get seriously cold in winter ( – 20 Degrees) July to Oct is the best time visit – days are long from 5 AM to 10 PM and the weather is a pleasant 25 Degrees
  • 1 Polish Zloty ~ 17 INR , the city is very affordable. Salaries are still low and the average salary is $ 600 / month for a school teacher , bank / hotel front office staff.

Why did I want to visit Krakow 

For some strange reason I have been wanting to visit the Nazi concentration camp at Aushwitz. WW 2 fascinates me and having read a lot about Aushwitz – its been on my must visit last for the last 5 years. But lucky me Aushwitz was interesting – but Old City Krakow and its charming localities were  more fascinating.

Getting to Krakow 

Its a 2 hr flight from London – Ryan Air and Easy Jet have many daily flights from Stanstead airport (The cab fare to Stanstead from Central London can be more expensive than the air fare) – there is a 1 hr time lag – so my 8.50AM flight reached Krakow at 12 Noon – and I was in the Sheraton by 1.15 afternoon. Krakow airport is small – Schengen Visa – and the distance from the airport to the city centre is 15 – 20 min. The Sheraton is a lovely affordable property in the centre of old town – facing the river front – 100 m away from the Castle. ( Sheraton Krakow rooms were ~ $90/night)

What are the main things to do in Krakow 

I would say 3 must do activities – of which the 1st and the 3rd are UNESCO world heritage cites.

  1. Old Town tour
  2. A visit to Aushwitz and Birkenau
  3. A Visit to the Wieliczska Salt Mine

1. The Old Town tour will take 3 – 4 hrs and most of it can be covered by walk. Important areas to visit include the main market square, St Mary’s Basilica, The University (where Copernicus studied)  and Wavel Castle. You must also visit the Schindler Museum, Old Jewish Town (And here is where you have an Indian restaurant)  and the Ghetto area.

The town is charming – cobbled streets, nice shops, lively crowd – the evening the shops and pubs are brimming with energy – there is live music in the square. I took a guide – because language is a problem and I wanted to make the most of the limited time I had. Some snaps of this picture perfect Old Town. The Town Square is large – imagine the vision to design something liked this a 1000 years back.

I started at 2 and was done by 6 – a Bit rushed at the Schindler museum where I could have spent more time – but we covered everything – 80 % by walk and a few short rides by Cab. After some rest – I was back at the Market square at 7.30 for  nice dinner with live music and back in my room by 9.30 at the lovely Sheraton that is located centrally opposite to the Castle

The Castle 

krakow castle

Main Market Square and Basilica 

main market square

Lots of fun stuff happening in the streets 

krakow streets

Old Jewish town at Szeroka 

old jewish town

2. Aushwitz & Birkenau

Day – 2 was very busy. I started with a early morning walk by the river and reached a beautiful park that surrounds the old town. It was fresh and green and quiet – all to myself at 5.30 AM. A sumptuous breakfast and we ready for a group tour to Aushwitz. Its a 1 hr drive from Krakow.

Although called Aushwitz – there were two Camps Aushwitz and Birkenau. They were the largest Nazi concentration & death camp where about 1.1 Mn – mainly Jews died. Aushwitz was smaller – 6 hectares and Birkanau was 25 times larger. But Aushwitz had a higher density.

auschwitz

People to these camps came from Poland (Political Prisoners) , Russian Prisoners of War , Jews from Poland, Hungary , Austria , Germany and Gypsies from Hungary and Romania.  Many came from Hungary packed into Trains – 80 to 100 in a wagon – long journeys of 2 – 3 days. The journey was a torture and many died in transit. They were lucky.

wagon

On reaching Birkenau they were sorted – the old, weak, pregnant, small kids – who could not work where sent directly to the gas chambers and the others to the concentration camps. Work was gruelling – 11 hrs , and food was hardly any – 2 cups of coffee in the morning , a bowl of soup for lunch and few slices of bread and a small piece of meat for dinner – all put together less than 1000 calories. Bitter cold of Poland, poor sanitation and back breaking work – hardly anyone survived for more than 6 months. The message was work hard – “work will set you free”

birkenau

At Aushwitz there were 700 – 1200 people in each building , each bunker was shared by 2 people, and there were 20 toilets and 1 washroom to be shared in a building. Punishment for the smallest of crimes was cruel and people were banished to suffocation rooms, starvations cells and many were shot or hanged at the slightest provocation. Inspite of this some survived when the red army came in 1945 – and of them 300 survivors came to Birkenau last year to celebrate the 70th anniversary of freedom.

aushwitz building

Over 1500 people were terminated in the Gas chambers in one shot – took 20 minutes for the deadly gas to take effect – post that their bodies were picked dry, hair was used for making mats, gold teeth were extracted, and the cremated ash was used as fertilisers.

IMG_5862

The scale of death and pain is unimaginable and it was done with German precision – extermination of Jews with 6 Sigma precision.

We reached Aushwitz at 9.30 and after the tour of both the places was back in the hotel by 3 PM – just in time to grab a quick lunch and then rush on a private tour to the world famous salt mines. The hotel had arranged a brand new Merc and the driver entertained me with nuggets of Poland and local history on the 20 min drive.

3. The Wieliczska salt mines are almost 500 years old. At one time they provided  30% of the country’s revenues. Salt was as expensive as gold in 1600 – 1700. A tonne of salt could buy a village with 200 people. Salt was important to preserve meat and food. Right from the Roman times a cup of salt was a form of currency – and the word Salary owes its origin to the humble cup of Salt.

wieliczska salt mines

The mines are deep – almost 1000 feet deep – but the guided tour takes us down to about 400 feet. You walk down and come up a lift – a lot of walking in the 3 hrs you spend at the mines – almost 3 – 4 kms. It is tiring – but you are welcome to lick the salt on the walls anytime to regain some energy – or take a deep breath in the pools of crystal clean green water saturated with rich rock salt. Excavation results in the mine becoming unstable – hence each cavern after excavation is propped up by logs – in all 1 M cubic foot of wood has been used to prop up the mine.

deep mines

The creative part – lots of amazing sculptures are visible – any famous visitor and those from biblical times are prominently exhibited in the caverns , chapels and alleys. There are about 300 kms of tunnels – a labyrinth of pathways deep down – in the 3 km we walked we probably did not cover even 1 %. But that itself was fascinating and tiring. The entire route is very well maintained, well lit and worthy of a UNESCO heritage site.

amazing sculptures

I finished the mine trip by 7 PM and headed back to town – a lovely dinner at the Indian restaurant ( I was famished with so much of walking) and back in the room at 9 PM – it as a long day but I wanted to get done with the blog as my memory was fresh.

One last thing – the people of Krakow are soft spoken  very professional and helpful – when they start talking in Polish they accelerate and run like a train at 100 mph  – and Monika at the concierge was the perfect example of a local citizen. I was in touch her a few days back trying to get my bookings done for the tours etc – she was super responsive and very articulate on email and when I met her I could see energy and professionalism gushing all over – and she has been at the same job for 10 years – hats off – wish more Indians could have her work ethics. Thank you Monika – you and the Sheraton were the perfect hosts for these 36 hrs – and thank you for making this a memorable trip

people of krakow

Shreyas Retreat – Bangalore’s best kept secret

2 Jul

About 50 Km and 90 Min drive away from the chaos,mad rush, choked potholed roads of Bangalore lies a bit of paradise. Shreyas Retreat is an amazing  25 acre property located at Nelamangala on the Tumkur road. (You will have the last mile problem in locating it – so keep the phone number handy to call. Google Maps identifies the place but does not work)

I am always on the lookout for these unique classy nature resorts and I am surprised that Shreyas has never come up in any search or has  been mentioned by anyone till date – like they say the worlds best things are not advertised. It was purely by chance after I had made my booking at Ananda that I came to know of this place from a Yoga Instructor at my gym – one look at the website and I cancelled Ananda – No Regrets.

Shreyas Retreat

Shreyas is a sprawling property spread across 25 acres. Its verdant and green, well maintained, lots of trees , a touch of rustiness – its natural and alive. The minute you walk in and spend a few minutes you realise that this place has the right energy balance – its just perfect.

Shreyas is a sprawling property spread across 25 acres.

It has only 12 rooms – 8 garden cottages , 3 pool side rooms and a 3 Bedroom cottage. The rooms are large, airy, lots of sunlight – the bathroom is large and extends to a nice open courtyard (Hot water 24 by 7) . The Decor was to my liking –  classy and rustic (not glitzy and overdone like the palace of the maharaja of Eyesore). The Garden Cottages have a nice verandah. Rooms have AC / Fan / Wi Fi / Good Lighting / Kettle / A Safe / Nice study Table / Decent Storage – No TV.

The Garden Cottages have a nice verandah

Its a Yoga retreat and they have two Yoga Halls – an outdoor open hall and an indoor one that doubles up as a meditation hall / meeting room – They also have meditation huts in a few other places. The unique thing – they conduct Yoga and chanting sessions even for their staff – lucky staff !

two yoga halls

The group yoga sessions happen at 6.30 AM and at 4 PM – the quality of the Yoga Teachers is outstanding and the practise is very energising.  I started my day at 4.30 AM with meditation  till 6.15 and then did the group session from 6.30 to 8.10 AM – all those twists, stretches and Surya Namaskars – I was famished for breakfast. And I was not dissapointed

group yoga sessions

Food is pure Veg (No Eggs) – very healthy and tasty – served in style. This is the type of healthy breakfast you must have every day. Lunch and dinner is also simple and homely – here is a sample menu of what I was served for dinner. All the food is freshly prepared , can be customised and is very very tasty. Also not that there is no liquor served , and consumption is also not allowed. Food is served for breakfast , lunch . dinner – set menu. No room service – no restaurant where you can order for Chai and Pakoda at 4 on a  rainy day.

Food is pure Veg (No Eggs)

The Spa is small but very well maintained and offers both Swedish and Ayurvedic therapies. Its calm and serene and the breeze wafting through the bamboo curtains ads to the charm. The quality of therapists is best in class and its money well spent. Spa Therapies are not very cheap – a 60 min session can put you back by Rs 3600. But the good thing – the 60 min session actually stretches to 75 min or more.

well maintained spa

Another well maintained WOW spot is the 3 acre organic garden – it grows a variety of fruits  (Jackfruit, Mangoes, Chickoo, Custard Apple, Jamun, Sweet lime) many vegetables (Beans, Variety of Gourds, Brinjal, Okra, Papaya and Spinach) and lots of herbs (Basil, Mint, Rosemary, Lemon Grass, Brahmi, Triphala, Borage etc) – I love natural farms and spent a long time in this place

organic garden

Adding to the rustic element is the sound of a Train chugging away once every 2 hrs – the rail track is not very far away and this adds to the charm of a holiday.

What else – well a few more things

1. A nice cobbled stone pathway / track around the property for long walks or jogs

2. A beautiful swimming pool and a Jacuzzi

3. An Open air amphi theatre and a movie auditorium – very well stocked with DVD’s

4. A Small conference room that can host 20

5. A well stocked Library

6. Wi Fi that works across the Resort – Excellent 3G network also

7. Its plastic free – so no Bisleri bottles

8. Pets not allowed ( Thats sad – I am sure the dogs cooped up in apartments would have loved the nature and open spaces as much as us)

Which brings me to the question that many may ask – Are children allowed ?

Unfortunately the answer is YES – you come to a place like Shreyas to unwind and connect with yourself. To Recharge and find out answers to some basic questions. Its best to come alone or with a close friend / spouse / soulmate.

I say unfortunately – because although Kids are allowed they may not have much to keep themselves busy. And the last thing you want in a property like this are pesky brats shouting and demanding attention. So if your family is a highly evolved one and your kids enjoy soulitude and can manage without TV and a stream of activities – please do come over – else figure out an alternative solution.

So who is the ideal Target Audience – I met a few people – a lady from Turkey who is here for 17 days , and another lady who is here on her fourth trip. Thats the target audience – people who want to spend time with nature , be on their own and enjoy nature, healthy food and world class hospitality. Its not a family destination – not a weekend binge party for your 40th birthday

Not advertised but the place is pretty busy most of the time – I was lucky. The weather was perfect – no rains – only 3 occupants including me. The service was perfect. Really am not able to think of a single thing that was not perfect – everything happened on time, service was soft, warm and classy all through my stay.

v anand kumar

Will I come back – yes I will definitely come back – the cost is steep and it does pinch to pay $ 300/night (Inclusive of all food / yoga sessions etc) – but thats the price mankind will have to pay for having messed up with nature. Two nights in Shreyas can make you feel fresh and energised –  no wonder the rishis in the himalaya by the sacred rivers become so evolved – living all their lives in this setting – nature , soulitude and less people – thats what you pay for – and sadly we seem to be hunting for these spots and recreating them in enclaves after spoiling them on mother earth. Its worth having a debate on what man has achieved in the last 50 years – is it a boon or a curse.

One more thing (As Steve Jobs always said in his memorable presentations) – Shreyas is owned by a NRI Business Magnate but is managed by Relais & Chateaux – this is a global hospitality company that runs some amazing resorts across the world. The standard they deliver is outstanding – and I am sure the experience they deliver will be too.

Here is a list of the other properties they have in India / Sri Lanka & Maldives – I have not been to any – but I now have a list to get working on.

  • Shakti 360 Leti – Uttrakhand
  • Samode Safari Lodge – MP
  • The Serai – Jaisalmer
  • Mihir Garh – Rajasthan
  • Sher Bagh – Rajasthan
  • The Malabar House – Kerala
  • Niraamaya Surya Samudra – Kerala
  • Purity – Kerala
  • Soneva Fushi – Maldives
  • Ceylon Tea Trails – Sri Lanka
  • Cape Welligama – Sri Lanka

Some More Photos

Front room of the 3 bedroom Cottage 

front room of shreyas

Dinner Table by the poolside

dinner table

Lilies and more greenery

IMG_5715

Toasted bed with Scrambled Tofu – tastes like Bhurjee – must try at home

Toasted bed with Scrambled Tofu

A small neat temple in the premises of Shreyas 

temple near shreyas

A Nice wooden sculpture of Rama – Sita – Hanuman , Has Thai features 

A Nice wooden sculpture of Rama - Sita - Hanuman

The Movie auditorium 

movie auditorium

A sample day at Shreyas 

daily suggested agenda

Tamara Coorg – A Critical Appreciation

18 May

I am always on the lookout for unique nature resorts – Ever since I first saw the Ad of Tamara Coorg in a Jet Airways In flight magazine a year back I have been wanting to visit – which I finally did last weekend.

I always pronounced TAMARA the american way – the way it was spelt – only while booking did I realise that its pronounced as if it were a Tamil or Malayalam word (Tamara in the S Indian languages means Lotus) – and Tamara is indeed a beautiful nature resort blooming in the southern part of Coorg.

Getting There 

The resort is about 275 Km from Bangalore – takes you 6 1/2 hrs on a  normal day. Bangalore – Mysore road is busy and you will at best manage 45 Km/hr – average speed – getting out of Bangalore and navigating past the towns of Kengeri, Bidadi, Chennapatna, Maddur, Mandya and Srirangapatna – does take its toll – this road desperately needs an upgrade to a Tolled National Highway – its a shame that 135 Km from Bangalore to Mysore takes almost 3 1/2 hrs.  After Srirangapatna you take the bypass from Ranganthittu (12 Km of patchy Road) – and then you zip along the Mysore Mangalore highway all the way past Hunsur. Take the fork towards Virajpet (You avoid Kushalnagar and Medikeri). The Roads are in excellent condition all the way to the resort. And you pass through some forests – if lucky you may spot some elephants.  We left Bangalore on a Fri at 11 AM and reached the Resort comfortably at 5.30 PM – with a short 30 min lunch break. After 14 years we were on a  trip without kids – I was driving on a long trip after many years – and it was a pleasant difference to be in a car on a long trip with no kids.  There are signs all along the route from Hunsur so locating the resort is not a problem – no last mile problems.

The Property

The property is amazing – its almost a structural design masterpiece. The resort is on a hill –  landscape design is by an Indonesian and its built on the concept of balance between man, nature & God. The architect is from Kerala and between the two they have indeed created a magnificent and unique luxury resort. The total property is 178 Acres – Resort 9 Acres, 10 Acres of Cardamom plantations, 125 acres of Coffee Plantations and the rest are thick forests. You can smell the rich bio diversity – and at night the crickets and cicadas create a ruckus while early morning the birds and the woodpeckers awaken you with their chirping and tweets.

The 52 Cottages are built on the style of Alpine Chalets – and they come in 3 forms – Luxurious , Suites and Superior Luxury (2 Bedroom units with a Jacuzzi) . Each one is unique with 100% privacy, lots of light and lovely views. The Cottages are built all along the hill – you drive 4 Km uphill from the main road  to the reception and then the battery operated cars take you to your rooms that start at 1132 metres. We stayed at a suite that had 1 bedroom, 1 dining / hall and a large open patio – all of this mounted on stilts on the hill. Very aesthetically done. The interiors were plush and luxurious. 2 LCD TV’s, Hot water, Excellent Beds / Sofas – nothing to complain about. (If I force myself to be critical –  I would have liked a seating with a backrest in the patio where I could comfortably sit crosslegged for my early morning meditation and maybe a little lesser furniture in the front room and a yoga mat in the room)

Tamara Coorg

 Tamara Coorg Properties

The distance from the first room to the last would be about 2 Km – so pick a room thats centrally located and not very far from the Central complex that houses the restaurant & bar. This is a beautiful complex – with one large Restaurant – The Falls that actually overlooks a waterfall which is full of gushing water during the rains. The well stocked bar – Deck and a large spacious Conference Room – Windows – (My first thought was that working in Apple I may struggle to justify a conference for my team here if the conference room is called Windows) –  the interiors are solid and classy.

beautiful complex

Food is served in the FALLS – the only restaurant – a large one which has a dance floor made of glass. Variety of food is good but the taste is just about OK – Not WOW. The Sambar lacked salt and tanginess, the Chutney lacked spice , the Rassogolla tasted canned and old, and the Medu Wada tasted like it has been refried 3 times. From Indian – Continental – Chinese – Local Kodava Cusiine it was all there – but the food was a  3 /4 star hotel standard – not 5 star. Eye for detail was missing – the table did not have sugar sachets, you had to remind people to fill your glass with water , tea and coffees was self service – Nett nett food and service lacked the quality and class one would expect in a  luxury resort.

That was a general feeling I had on service – good soft spoken people – but they lack the pro-activeness and engagement that I have seen in Ananda Spa, Orange County, Windflower Mashobra or most of the Oberoi properties. When you are walking the battery car passes by but almost always they never stop to ask you for a lift. The person staffing the reception at 7 AM looks haggard and sleepy  – small things but these are the small things that transforms you from good to great. Maybe the place needs a GM from the Oberois who can inculcate the right culture & training. (Having stayed in almost all the global hotel chains extensively The Oberoi to me is still the gold standard on service)

Moving onto activities – we enjoyed 3 activities at the Resort – a Yoga session, a long Plantation walk around the property and a lovely early morning 3 hr trek.

The Yoga session was good – but not great. The session was to start at 7 AM  – we were told to report at 6.45AM which we did punctually – but the instructor came at 7.10AM and by the time we walked to the Yoga Platform and started it was 7.20AM. Punctuality is in my blood and I get bugged if my morning Yoga session is delayed. The Teacher was a very good practitioner – a young student doing his Phd in Yoga but not trained to be a teacher. He spoke so much during the session that I felt like telling him quieten down please. The Yoga Platform is in a great location – beneath a Rudraksha tree with a small stream gurgling along. Its hard concrete – open. I would have liked this to be beautiful designed pagoda with wooden / granite floor ( again I go back to the Yoga Hall at the Ananda Spa that was beautiful) that could fit well with the overall architecture of the resort. A small point – the Yoga mats were 4 mm thick – on hard concrete that makes it uncomfortable – would have been good to have 8 mm mats. (I used two mats one on top of the other)

beautiful designed pagoda with wooden floor

The plantation trek was nice – the guide was very knowledgeable and told us all the facts about the Resort, history of Coffee, Spices etc… showed us some nice picnic spots, explained the Rudraksh trees and helped us identify numerous flora and fauna (including a unique All Spice plant) we had heard about but not seen.

plantation trek

We ended the walk at the Verandah – a centre which houses a store, the evening snack place and some books for reading. It also has the demo centre for making coffee. You actually get to select coffee beans, roast it and grind it before making your own cup of fresh Coorg Coffee – a lovely educational experience that we enjoyed.

evening snack place

The next day morning we headed for a trek at 6.30 AM – a 14 km long trek to a small hill called Ballayatre. Took us about 3 hrs – a lovely trek – medium grade. Fortunately it was not raining – but the previous days rains had made the terrain slippery. Climbing, slipping, forests, leeches, flies – stories of snake bites, pug marks – all of that made the trek indeed very interesting and the view from the top was the reward. Our guide Lokesh  an ex serviceman was absolutely superb.

lovely trek

We were back from the trek by 9.30 AM – had a relaxed breakfast and were ready to check out at 10.30 AM. Our first holiday after 14 years with no kids – day 1 was good and relaxed but by day 2 we started missing the kids. We left Tamara at 11 AM and were back in Bangalore at 5.30 PM.

Other Pointers 

  • Rates at the resort are all inclusive – no extra charges for breakfast / lunch / dinner / treks / Free Wi Fi (they better be when you are charged almost $ 400 / night)
  • The swimming pool and Gym is under construction – should be opening soon
  • The Spa looked OK – we did not try it out.
  • A Badminton and Tennis Court – looked like the Yoga Platform – solid cement – not fitting in with the ambience of the resort.
  • We did not see any foreigners – mainly young couples probably on a  honeymoon. (Rich young couples – I could never have imagined spending this money when I was 30)
  • The Resort opened in 2012 – so its spanking new – excellent condition
  • All the water used in the resort comes from natural springs – I was told that during the rains the place is full of streams and falls – that will be beautiful indeed.
  • They get power from the State electricity board but the power goes frequently and it switches to generator supply
  • Talacauvery is just 30 Km away – we stayed indoors – we have been to Coorg many times and avoided the Abbey Falls, Raja Garden, Tibetan Monastery …… regular touristy get aways.
  • The Bittangla Golf course is not far away
  • Kids below 12 not allowed – thats good , at times it nice to be in a place where you don’t have naughty toddlers screaming and messing up the place spoiling the harmony and tranquility.
  • Oct to May are the best times to Travel, June – Sep heavy rains

In Summary – lovely property – good break – but expensive – the advantage is being close to Bangalore there are no flight charges. I have been to many amazing properties – I felt that The Tamara was missing something – let me call it a personality, soul, spirit – thats something the people who run it need to think about. The staff are good but many are not passionate – they are just going about their jobs (Like the folks at Infosys / Wipro) – which reminds me that this property is owned and developed by Shibulal and his daughter – and its great that they have invested their hard earned money in creating a memorable getaway for people like us so thank you for a nice relaxed break.

 lovely property

Final Leg – Langkawi

19 Apr

Langkawi is a small Island located 1 hr flight from KL. Our Flight landed by 9 PM – and were in our hotel by 9.45 PM – its a 30 min drive. The Westin Langkawi is a wonderful property – located close to the Jetty and the Fair Mall its a beautiful property with excellent service. Rates are reasonable – our rooms were priced at $160 / night (April is off season , May the rains start – peak season is from Oct to Feb) – rates for food was also very reasonable – 1/3rd of what the Westin Gurgaon charges. It has 3 large pools – the main pool , a kid pool and a rock garden pool. A Lovely Spa called the Heavenly Spa. A centre for water sports and a Kid Activity Centre. 3 Restaurants – one with live music at night at the lobby level. A beautiful floating Pagoda in the sea where you can host private parties.  All +ves for the Westin and I am glad we chose this over Datai and Andaman – these are nice properties but located at the north west corner of the island very far away. The only challenge at the Westin was the beach – it was OK – Sand was grainy and coarse and the sea was far away exposing marshy rocks –  no comparison to the beach at Sheraton Krabi or  the Park Hyatt Goa.

Best places in Langkawi

A tropical duty free island – its a UNESCO Geo Park. A small island (but 3 times as large as Singapore) – you can cover this comfortably in 3 days. Here is how we paced ourselves

Day – 1

Morning session 9 – 2 , was a drive to the Cable Car, A trek to a waterfall (not much water this time of the year) – and a drive past some beautiful golf courses and a quick stop at the Datai , a 5 min halt at a small but very clean Indian Temple and  lunch at the Indian Arabic Restaurant at Fairview Mall.

Cable Car

Trek to waterfall in Cable car

View from the top of the Cable Car Ride

Beautiful Nature

Elephant Ride (Same areas as Cable Park – they also have a 6D movie)

Elephant ride in cable park

 

Day – 1 : Second Half : 2.30 to 5.30 PM  High speed drive past Mangroves – Kite Feeding , Bat Caves.

The speed boat travels at 90 Kmph – zips past miles and miles of mangroves – and on the way we crossed an area for kite feeding and entered caves full of bats. The drive reminds you of Phantom and the Denkali isles – just that the river is free of Piranha. What added to the fun was sudden rain as passing clouds drenched us for a few minutes.

Best Mangroves forest

Day – 2 was spent entirely in Snorkelling / Diving / Swimming – a Yacht ride to an island – 1 hr away.

Best Island in Langkawi

Anvi was brave enough to try deep sea diving and she did a great job of it – not once but twice going as deep as 50 feet into the deep blue sea – she claims to have seen amazing flora and fauna including a wide variety of coral reefs.

sea diving in deep blue sea

 

 

Places near langkawi

We were back by 5 PM and spent the evening in the lovely hotel having a peaceful dinner and watching the sunset over the beautiful island. Sun Rise at 7 AM snd sets by 7.30 PM.

westin langkawi

Day – 3 our flight was in the evening at 7.30 – so we had the whole day to ourselves – but we had covered almost all of Langkawi – barring the wildlife park. Its a 20 min drive from the Westin and we reached at 10 – a small but homely wildlife centre it houses amazing birds and a few animals – no tigers / elephants / leopards etc. Kids love the place – its neat , clean and very homely – being off season was almost empty – and that added to the charm.

Amazing birds in wildlife park

Beautiful birds

 

amazing birds

 

Peacock in wildlife park

 

The place is full of beaches and water sports activities – so if thats your interest its all over the place. I believe there are some great treks to the rich forests – but all that needs more time.

We check out at 2 and head for a late lunch – and then we leave the hotel by 5 PM for our 7.30 PM flight to Bangalore Via KL.

That brings to an end one more amazing 10 day holiday. SE Asia is beautiful, affordable, efficient – and there so much more to see. I can now start planning my next holiday and I have a big list to choose from – Maldives , Sri Lanka, Seychelles, Bhutan , Bali …… let the good times continue.

All the photos of the Blogs / FB were taken on the amazing iPhone 6 – now there is no need for a camera the iPhone 6 beats most amateur cameras hollow.

Places near langkawi