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IBNII @ Coorg – A Jewel in the Crown

3 Dec

Coorg is home to some of the finest resorts not just in India but globally. Given its close proximity to Bangalore we end up going every 3 years and our past stay at Evolve (Earlier Orange County), Taj and Tamara was wonderful. This trip we discovered  IBNII – a wonderful luxury Eco Resort, and I feel it may just pip the others to win the Jewel in the Crown tag.

So what makes IBNII unique?

Blending with nature 

120 Acres of dense evergreen foliage and only 34 cottages that are almost camouflaged. The structures at IBNII seem to disappear into the landscape or flow into the contours. The design is aesthetically done. IBNII means a dew drop – and the creators of this property have treasured every drop of nature in their premise.  I believe the brief given to the architect was that no tree was to be chopped while building the property, so the designers found niches and built the structures around them. You will see this design philosophy across the entire property – from the flying coffee shop, cascading pools to the hidden Spa.

Nature First

The spirit of IBNII is Eco Consciousness. Even if it threatens commercial viability. One of the first things constructed was a check dam to store all the water from the rains and make IBNII self sufficient. The water body created is so large it feels like a large lake with a wide variety of fishes.

They have some very interesting concepts. Firstly to avoid radiation there are no cell towers – all of you have is good strong Wi Fi. Food wastage at the restaurant is penalised – so please be careful and fill your plate only with what you can eat.

A Healthy Lifestyle 

Fresh air, greenery, lovely cool climate – add to that a healthy lifestyle. Cooking does not include Sugar and even for tea/coffee you are given sugar cubes only if you insist (Normal is jaggery syrup). Maida is sparingly used, white bread is not recommended. No preservatives, no colours and no baking soda. Thats why you will not find Chinese food in the menu here. They have a small organic farm from where ~ 50% of their daily needs are met, and efforts are on to expand the farm.

One rate that’s all inclusive 

Many resorts fleece you on dining costs. At IBNII that rate you pay includes all meals – breakfast, lunch & dinner. And the evening tea/ coffee at the coffee shop is also free. Now thats a deal. The restaurant serves an excellent variety of multicusine food across all meals. And most importantly service is fast and efficient.

A lot to keep you busy 

On our 2 night trip we did not feel the need to step out of the property. ( although we did find time to visit an ancient Shiva temple built by sage Agastya at Guhya on the banks of the Cauvery). From morning to evening there is a lot happening to keep you busy. I missed the trekking and fishing – but those I was told are getting added soon. It would be nice to have some cultural entertainment during dinner – music / dance performance etc, probably because of COVID that was not possible.

 

How do I choose my room?

There are only 35 rooms here. 22 are pool villas (Kopi Luwak), 12 are wooden cottages (Arnetta) and the exclusive royal Presidential Suite (Poinsettia). Rooms are beautifully done up with excellent views. the bathrooms are large and spacious and built with separate doors for all sub units

Point to note there are only 2 family rooms, these are two adjacent Wooden Cottages with a connecting door. While individual Wooden Cottages are Couples only the Pool Villas can accommodate an additional adult or children. The family units are not listed on the website so when you call ask for them (The rooms we stayed was 210 – 211)

A few more points to help travellers 

  • Location – Its bang on the highway. So no last mile problems. The drive from Mysore is 2 1/2 hrs. Good roads all through
  • The electrical buggy drops you and picks you up during check out. the rest of the time you walk. The walk ways are cemented and broad and run almost 9 kms thru the property. A walk to the restaurant / coffee shop etc is 5 – 10 min and not steep.
  • Morning coffee is served only at 7 AM – but you have a complicated high end coffee machine in the room. If you can figure out how to use it then problem solved.
  • I did not use the Spa but it seemed well equipped – in addition a wellness centre is coming up.
  • You can pick up pure organic Turmeric / Coffee / Pepper / Honey ( seasonal) that they grow at IBNII. Its very reasonably priced
  • The service at IBNII is efficient and subtle. Food menu consists of Veg & Non Veg
  • Drivers stay for free and the food is charged very nominally – I think it was less than 250 Rs / day for all 3 meals.
  • For more details https://www.ibnii.com

And finally some inputs / critical appreciation to the founders of IBNII and resort owners at Coorg….. 

While we enjoyed the trip my daughter mentioned on the return journey ” All the resorts we have visited in Coorg look and feel the same”

IBNII is a an example of a great product that is missing a distinct positioning and packaging. Thats the same with most of the amazing resorts at Coorg. The owners have spent upwards of 500 – 1000 Crores in building up these fabulous properties, but they all seem to be almost 90% same. The unique branding opportunity is missing. Ananda in Rishikesh has a clear positioning – Ananda Spa, Swaswara in Gokarna has a unique positioning – healthy food and wellness , Shreyas in Bangalore is about Self Discovery & wellness targeted at the solo traveller. IBNII needs to find a positioning like this and build services to deliver the promise. Its an opportunity to make the property unique and sought after in India.

Coorg is such an amazing place it can establish itself like Bali or the French Riveria on the global tourism map. This requires working with the local authorities to create more experience led activities. If you don’t want Coorg to become an Ooty or Simla price it accordingly.

Experiencing nature – Trekking (not the run of the mill tracks but offbeat), experiencing the beauty of the Cauvery river, Bird watching, building a mini botanical garden …. there is a lot that can be explored to attract serious tourists from across the globe who will come and spend a week or more.

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Gitanjali – A Warm & Cozy Homestay @ Mysore

30 Nov

When I was telling a friend that I have travelled far and wide but was yet to explore Mysore, I was reminded of this beautiful poem by Rabindranath Tagore. Writing on Gitanjali its a nice coincidence that I quote from this great poet.

Ekti sishir bindu (the glistening dew drop)

I traveled miles, for many a year,
I spent a lot in lands afar,
I’ve gone to see the mountains,
The oceans I’ve been to view.
But I haven’t seen with these eyes
Just two steps from my home lies
On a corn of paddy grain,
A glistening drop of dew

For most Bangaloreans Mysore is a convenient lunch stopover on the way to Coorg / Ooty/ Kabini / Waynad etc. The Palace, Zoo and Brindavan gardens is probably all that we have seen. But there is a lot more to Mysore and one of these days I plan to spend some time and explore the bye-lanes of this beautiful and historic, traditional city.

When I do that I will be staying at the Gitanjali Home stay. We spent a night here on our way to Coorg and fell in love with the warm and cozy place. Nestled on the verdant green foothills of Chamundi Hills, it is just 4 kms from the heart of Mysore city. Gitanjali is a 10 Acre property that was owned by the family. They have now built their house in 1.5 acres and the rest have been sold as 1/4 acre plots – almost all of which are vacant.

The entire area is lush green and on a late Nov morning at 6 AM it was a refreshing sight as I went out for a stroll, to be greeted by numerous birds. I believe a birdwatcher who stayed here spotted  80 varieties of birds that come visiting. We met at least 10 of them in 10 minutes.

So what’s special about Gitanjali?

  • Its a genuine homestay. The owners and their parents live here. You are welcomed by them, you socialise with them and they serve you the food they cook at home. It feels warm and nice and their hospitality is excellent.
  • Food is fresh, tasty and homely. The spread was decent and included all that you needed and more. Mainly Veg but included one Non Veg Dish. We had dinner and breakfast and were treated to some Kodava specialities.
  • There are 4 rooms – ideal to accommodate 2 people/room. So if you come as a group you can book the whole place. The rooms come with 2 single beds but are large enough to accommodate a third one.
  • All the rooms share a large common verandah that has a hammock and a swing and comfortable chairs where you can sip coffee and admire the landscape

  • Rooms have 24 hrs hot water (solar) and power backup. They are equipped with AC & fan and lots of hooks / storage.
  • Rooms are clean , spacious and very comfortable. Bathroom is large and airy. Bedsheets and curtains are done up tastefully. There is an eye for detail and this is the only place I found a small scissor next to the tea bag/ milk sachet with the kettle. 
  • Being nature lovers they have done their bit for Eco Conservation and responsible tourism. The organic garden and zero pesticide usage has helped in fresher air and more birds and insects. They have implemented a well researched rain harvesting system that can harvest a million litres of water from the rooftop.
  • They have been running this place efficiently for 16 years and the professionalism shows.
  • Its the perfect place to stay for a few days and explore Mysore or make it a transit point when you are headed beyond Mysore

A Few more points 

  • Cell phone signal is good and the homestay provides you with free Wi Fi
  • You can park your car but there are no driver rooms. Our driver easily found a clean affordable accommodation near the Mysore Zoo (Shradana Lodge)
  • Not a place where you may want to drink / party and make noise – this is families home and they have Sr Citizens staying with them
  • There is an excellent Spa close by which has a tie up with Gitanjali, you can book a session and visit them
  • And they have two adorable dogs.
  • Inspite of being. homestay its not cheap and many a Tim you may find the Radisson next door to be cheaper. Prices are inclusive of only breakfast

For more details reach out to Yamuna at +91 8212474646 or +91 9886117919 or visit https://www.gitanjalihomestay.com/

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Gali Gali Jaipur (Exploring the bye-lanes of Jaipur)in 2 1/2 days

17 Mar

The holiday I look forward to is the annual getaway with my dear friends. If in a career of 30+ years after interacting with thousands you find 3 genuine friends – consider yourself lucky. This was our 4th edition – after Chickamagalur, Binsar and Kodaikanal we decided to spend a few days at Jaipur.

Planning started 3 monthly early  and even the threat of the Corona Virus could not hold us back. With the divine positive energy of my dear friends everything as usual turned out to be perfect. Flights were on time, Jaipur was a pleasant 12 – 23 Degrees, the hotels were great,  and the City of Jaipur welcomed us and treated us like royalty.

This was my 3rd trip to Jaipur (2003, 2012 and now 2020) – the earlier ones were rushed 1 day trips. This time we wanted to explore the bye lanes of Jaipur, taste the local food, shop in the local markets and soak in the charm of Jaipur. And that’s exactly what we did. My friend who has visited Jaipur a million times was the best guide we could have had.

A quick history of Jaipur 

Jaipur was built in 1727 by Maharaja Sawai man Singh – II (That makes it only as old as Bangalore/ Kolkata/Hyderabad). The kings of Amber (Jaipur State) aligned with the Mughals and Akbar even married one of the princes to who Jahangir was born. Jaipur  was the 1st planned city of India. In 1876 Maharaja Ram Singh adorned the city in pink (Supposed to be the colour of hospitality) to welcome Prince Wales – Thus it acquired the name Pink City

The Energy of Jaipur

A few days in Delhi and you get the sense of an aggressive, greedy, wicked smart city that is difficult to trust. Jaipur on the contrary exudes a sense of efficiency and calm, a city that is grounded and contended. Today it is probably the most organised city in India. Broad well lit roads, fast moving traffic, no potholes, no garbage, nice footpaths, efficient traffic police, very clean and affordable. No wonder that Rajasthan attracts ~ 50M tourists every year. Credit should go to the JDA chairman (who happens to be my classmate) and the citizens of Jaipur for maintaining their city so well.

Alsisar Haveli – The property where we stayed

When it comes to hotels you are spoilt for choice. From a wide range of 5 Star properties, Palaces converted to hotels, havelis, small but efficient properties – there is no dearth of options. Just visit booking.com to choose what suits you best. We hunted down a traditional Haveli property in the heart of the city. Alisisar Villa is the ancestral home of the Landlord of Alsisar Village (225km North of Jaipur). This property was built in 1892 and converted to a hotel in 1993. It has 44 rooms. The Alisisar group also has fabulous heritage properties in Shkhawati & Ranathambore. A 4th property will be opening in Khetri Village at Ahaygardh in 2022.

The property is picture perfect, the rooms are divine, the food is average and the service could have been better .

A 200m walk from Alsisar Haveli is a second option – an efficient budget option called Hotel Arya Niwas. We had stayed here in 2003 and loved the place. We did drop by for breakfast and lunch. The place now is larger with a new annexe and still provides the same level of efficient service.

How we spent the 2 1/2 days at Jaipur

When you plan a trip to Jaipur you have to try and cover a lot – Forts, Palaces, Cenotaphs, Food, Bangles, Quilts, Joothis…. the list is long. But yes you can do justice to almost everything in 2 1/2 days if you follow this plan.

Day 1 we land at 11.45 AM 

Our Indigo flight from Bangalore landed on time. Jaipur has a small and efficient airport and we are out in less than 10 minutes. The waiting Innova takes us to our Haveli. Its a 15 min drive and we check in before 1230. The rooms are yet to be ready so rather than waste time we head to Laxmi Mishtana Bhandar (LMB).

In 1727, when by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II, the ruler of Amber, founded the new capital city of Jaipur, he invited traders and artists from nearby towns to the newly built city, amongst them were a group of halwais, who set up a small sweet shop in Johri Bazaar. Years later in around, 1949/1950, one of the descendants of these halwais, Maliram Ghodawat, branded this sweet shop, as the Lakshmi Mishthan Bhandar (LMB)

LMB is famous for its restaurant and sweetshop on the street-level. The restaurant serves pure vegetarian food and is known for its Rajasthani thali, Dal bati churma, and kulfi. While I experimented with Kair Sangri (a traditional spicy Rajasthani dish) my friend explored the Rajathani Thali. Food was delicious and rich. We treated ourselves to Kulfi’s and Rasmalais to end a satisfying meal.

A short drive from here passing the iconic Hawa Mahal is the City Palace. Having been here in the past we spent 45 min and covered ground fast before heading to Rajasthan Shilp Gram Udyog that is located close to on the Exit gates. A huge shop (Private) you can find an excellent variety of traditional items – all good Quality (My friend who has bought many times from here assured us of their quality). Excellent variety and very affordable prices. we ended up buying a few quilts and bedsheets.

It was almost 4 PM by now and we headed out to a place called  Gatore Ki Chatriyan – Cenotaph of the Kings. The Taxi driver, a local did not know about this place and we were happy to find at sunset a beautiful and empty place that housed the remains of the royal Kings. Its a photographers delight, do take a guide – you can easily spend 1 hr here.

Next to the Cenotaph is a set of 400 steep steps that takes you to the Garh Ganesha temple – which was the temple set up by the 1st king when he started laying the foundation of the city of Jaipur. The climb is a nice exercise and can substitute for your daily gym workout. The view of the city from the top is breathtaking – but thats when you realise that Jaipur is no longer a Pink city.

From here we headed to Saraogi Mansion (The underground market has a nice store that sells unique children toys) and then walked the bye-lanes of Bapu Bazar. This is the best place to get all things Rajasthani – from dresses, bangles, joothis, bags, mouth fresheners… and you can bargain.

Jaipur has many markets and most of them are adjacent to each other. Markets are clean, it was empty but can be very crowded in peak season so be careful of pick pockets.

• Johari Bazaar – For Jewelry
• Tripolia Bazaar – For Bangles
• Chandpole Bazaar – For Handicrafts
• Kishanpole Bazaar – For Textiles
• Nehru Bazaar – For Traditional Jootis
• Sireh Deori Bazaar – For Street Shopping
• Bapu Bazaar – For All Jaipuri Items
• Mirza Ismail Road (MI Road) – For Pottery
• Tibbati Market – For Local Souvenirs
• Anokhi – For Colorful Garments
• Gaurav Tower – For Local Products
• The Gem Palace – For Antique Charms
• Kripal Kumbh – For Blue Pottery
• Aravali Bazaar – For Home Decor Items
• Purohit Ji Ka Katla – For Wedding Items

We had covered a lot for 1/2 a day and now it was time for dinner. The heavy lunch was still making us feel guilty and hence we went to a place called Masala Chowk. A few minutes drive from Bapu Bazar next to the Albert Hall – Masala Chowk is a new Food Market  that houses all the famous local eateries in one place.

Masala Chowk is a one-stop place to end all of the street food cravings. This new destination for Street Food in Jaipur is an open food court in Ram Niwas Garden. The place acts as a home for all prominent local cuisines. The common open sitting gives the families and friends freedom to choose from the vast varieties of street foods. This place was intended for the tourists and has gradually turned into a favourite hangout spot for the residents of Jaipur. Masala Chowk has all the traditional Rajasthani dishes from leading stores like Rawat, LMB etc. It also has street food  like Samosa, Jalebi, Gol Gappa, Chole Bhature, Tea, Mishri Mawa and also South Indian Dishes like Masala Dosa and Uttapa but in a different style. This world of mouthwatering food has an entry ticket of INR 10 only. Masala Chowk is one of the best places to eat in Jaipur.

We did try a lot of tasty dishes but the freshly made Jalebis was the icing on the cake.We drove past the well lit Albert Museum and headed back to our Haveli. We were home by 10PM. Teetotallers that we were – we ended up chatting and listening to old Kishore Kumar music before calling it a day.

Day – 2 : A few Forts and more 

We start day 2 at 9 AM and head to the Nahargarh Fort. Its a 20 min drive up the hill with sparse rugged vegetation. The Nahargarh Fort stands on the edge of the Aravalli Hills, overlooking the city of Jaipur. Along with Amer Fort and Jaigarh Fort, Nahargarh once formed a strong defense ring for the city. The fort was originally named Sudarshangarh, but it became known as Nahargarh, which means ‘abode of tigers’. You can get an excellent view of the city from here. Its a large fort, mostly empty and has rustic beauty. Most tourists give this fort a miss. Budget 30 – 45 minutes for seeing this place.

The next in line was the Jaigarh Fort. A 10 min drive from Nahargarh it overlooks the Amer Fort. The fort was built in 1726 to protect the Amer Fort and its palace complex. Rugged and similar in structural design to the Amer Fort it is also known as the Victory Fort.  The fort features a cannon named “Jaivana“, which was manufactured in the fort precincts and was then the world’s largest cannon on wheels. Jaigarh Fort and Amer Fort are connected by subterranean passages and considered as one complex

You can get an excellent view of Amer Fort from Jaigarh. After the two Forts we had plans to head to the village of Abhaneri which was home to one of the grandest, deepest step-wells in the country. Abhaneri is ~ 100 Km from Jaipur and a 90 minute drive on the highway. The walk in the Forts had made us thirsty and it was almost 11 AM. Before heading to Abhaneri we stopped by at Lassiwala – the famous lassi joint of Jaipur. Lassiwala is located at 312 MI Road, Jayanti Market, New Colony. Dont miss this – the Lassis is delicious and filling and served in large Kulhads.

The highway drive to Abhaneri got us out of the city to rural Rajasthan. Summer was on the anvil so the fields were still green – we were in Dausa the territory of Sachin Pilot. Roads were good (too many toll gates) and we passed by a small town that specialises in stone carvings before reaching the small village of Abhaneri.

Chand Baori is a step well that is over 1000 years old. It is one of the largest and oldest step wells in the world extending almost 100 feet deep. The baori has precise geometrical patterns and the steps form a maze and the play of light gives it a captivating look.  This place has been used as a filming location for a number of films including Paheli, Bhool Bhulaiya & The Fall. Next to the well is an ancient temple in ruins.

On the way back we stopped at Umaid Lake Palace for lunch – a very nice resort on the highway about 30 min from the step well on the way back to Jaipur. We were the only folks at lunch. Food was fresh and tasty – it was almost 2.30 PM and we were hungry. The trip was fun and a nice getaway from the city – but the step well was a bit disappointing. One of those things which looks and reads better on the Internet.

We reached Jaipur at 5 PM , just in time for me to freshen up and meet my college buddy – an IAS Officer who has now become the Commissioner of Jaipur Development Authority. I congratulated him on the wonderful upkeep of the city and we caught up on old times and old friends dating back to 1988 – 92. My friends picked me up from the JDA office which is just opposite the beautiful Birla Mandir. It was already 6.45 and the entry hours were over so we could just see the temple from outside. As we headed to the markets we stopped by at LMB for some Pyaj Kachodi and Chai and then walked by Hawa Mahal. Most tourists would do that but we had plans to come back and visit Hawa Mahal from the inside the next day.  At the Markets my friend bought bangles (Remember to carry sample bangles for size). After shopping for colourful knick knacks we headed out for dinner.

We had had enough of local cuisine and decided to try out a place called Cafe & Bar Palladio – a highly rated Italian restaurant that is frequented mostly by foreigners. Its located at Narain Niwas palace and is part of a 3 restaurant complex. The ambience is nice, the interiors are done up in my favourite color Blue, food and drinks are reasonably priced but the taste of food was OK. We ended the day by 11 PM and reached our Haveli tired for a good nights sleep.

The last day – Day 3 

We had covered a lot in the last 1 1/2 days. But we still had the most prominent landscapes of Jaipur – Hawa Mahal & Amer Fort to be covered.

Hawa Mahal  is a palace made with red and pink sandstone. The palace sits on the edge of the City Palace, Jaipur, and extends to the Zenana, or women’s chambers. The structure is relatively new – built in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, the grandson of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh, who was the founder of Jaipur. Its unique five floors exterior is akin to the honeycomb of a beehive with its 953 small windows called Jharokhas decorated with intricate latticework. The original intent of the lattice design was to allow royal ladies to observe everyday life and festivals celebrated in the street below without being seen, since they had to obey the strict rules of “purdah”, which forbade them from appearing in public without face coverings. This architectural feature also allowed cool air from the Venturi effect to pass through, thus making the whole area more pleasant during the high temperatures in summer. Many people see the Hawa Mahal from the street view and think it is the front of the palace, but in reality it is the back of that structure. Most people just walk by – but do buy a ticket and venture inside. Its a fascinating piece of architecture.

Our next stop was Amer Fort. It is the principal tourist attraction in Jaipur. Amer Fort is known for its artistic style elements. With its large ramparts and series of gates and cobbled paths, the fort overlooks Maota Lake, which is the main source of water for the Amer Palace. We had visited Amer Fort in 2012 as part of the Palace on Wheels Tour and I recollect we had seen areas which are not accessed to normal tourists. The fort is large and could take 2 – 3 hrs to cover, but we were faster.

On our way to the hotel to check out by 12 Noon we picked up Ghewar from LMB (A traditional Rajasthani sweet) and then had lunch at Arya Niwas. This is a nice hotel that provides clean rooms and homely tasty food. We had a simple meal of Phulka, Dal, Dry Sabji (No Gravy), Curd Rice and Kheer.

Post lunch we drove past the Vidhan Soudha, Cricket Stadium, Rambag Palace Hotel (Managed by Taj) and stopped by  at WTP or World Trade Park. A large complex that is beautifully designed across multiple towers. I would rate this as one of the nicest malls in India. From here I rushed out to meet another classmate – who heads the Bharat Broadband Org for Rajasthan and then we headed to the airport at 630 PM in time for the 745 PM flight. Jaipur airport is nice – they even have TT tables and Chess Boards to keep you entertained.

We did cover a lot –  we wanted to visit Tapri, a popular tea joint but did not have the time. We had plans to visit the Galtaji Temple – but I believe the surroundings are not very clean. Sisodia Garden is a nice place to hang out in the evening and if we had an extra night maybe we would have headed to Saltwater Sambhar Lake (70 Km from Jaipur). Another place worth visiting would have been the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing (AMHP). Located in a magnificently restored haveli, the museum displays a varied selection of block printed textiles alongside images, tools and related objects – all chosen to provide an in-depth look into the complexity of this ancient tradition. And of course we stayed away from Surana Jewellers famous for its uncut diamonds and semi precious Gem stones. Most first time visitors would also plan an evening at Chokhi Dhani, a well-known tourist attraction in Jaipur. The aim of the resort is to give tourists a full experience of Rajasthani culture. The entire resort’s theme is inspired by a village setting, with many cultural activities held here.

Jaipur is a fascinating city – most metros have direct flights so that makes it easier. Plan a 2 – 3 day trip and you can cover the city in detail. it really helps if you have a local from Delhi / N India who can help you navigate the city. Oct – to early March is the best time to travel.

In conclusion a trip that was threatened by the Corona outburst did end up perfect. Even that last day storm at Delhi did not disrupt our flights. Thanks to Corona – the city / flights / eateries were empty. The weather was nice – and I would give credit to all of this to my two good friends whose +ve energy makes these holidays a grand success.

All photographs shot on our iPhones (Only Masala Chowk Photo sourced from Google Images)

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Himalaica – Calm, Serene, Meditative luxury home stay in Kumaon

9 Oct

Kumaon in Uttarakhand is one of the few easily accessible lower Himalayas that is still fresh, green and beautiful. I hope it stays that way.

Delhi – Kathgodam Shatabdi gets you to Kathgodam by 11.30 AM and in less than 60 mins you are in the beautiful hills with dense forests. Driving is a long way  8 – 9 hrs. I love this region and am always on the lookout for offbeat home-stays.

It was by chance that I read about Himalaica in a National Geography article and instantly fell in love with the place. I normally plan my trip 6 months in advance – but this time everything fell in place in less than 10 days. Rooms, Shatabdi tickets on exactly the dates we wanted, free nights at Delhi Hyatt and air tickets that were not very cheap. Everything went like clockwork precision – Weather was excellent, Flights were on time, the Hyatt Regency & Andaz extended great hospitality and dinner with the Marwah’s –  the nicest people you can meet in NCR made the whole trip perfect.

Himalaica is the home of Uttam & Shalini Dave. They built this home with a lot of love over 3 long years. Its a green oasis on 1 1/2 acres of hillside at Bhowali (1 hr from Kathgodam and 30 min from Nainital). A lot of thought has gone into the design, the plants, the curios, the beautiful dogs  and everything that makes this a special and warm place. I can never imagine owning a place like this and staying her for 4 days was like a dream come true.

The main building has 4 rooms and the adjoining cottage 2. It would be ideal to come as an extended group and book the full place. The highlight of Himalaica is the conservatory – a glass house that overlooks the garden. The photo shows you a part of it. There are 3 sections here- one with two comfy chairs and the other with a small breakfast table. The conservatory is packed with rare plants and curios. Shalini clearly loves owls – we must have seen at least 50 different statues and figures of owls in the conservatory.

The Ground floor houses the kitchen, dining room, a sitting room with a cozy fireplace and a TV room stocked with a great collection of DVD’s. There are  4 rooms are in the 1st floor – a study, a 2 bedroom unit and a single bedroom. Leading from the kitchen in the rear is the cottage with two rooms. The cottage rooms are smaller but offer more privacy. The front of the building has a nice garden and when you sit there with a book you can hear a wide variety of birds and bees and the gurgling sound of a hidden stream that runs adjacent to Himalaica.

The staff are warm and friendly and The chef  serves you tasty homely food. A wide variety from North Indian, Kumaoni to even french fries & pasta. Both veg & non veg. We loved the food especially the Kumaoni dinner that he made for us – Ram Karela, Bhatke Dubke, Lauki with Dahi, Kumaoni Raita, Cabbage Sabji  from the Cabbages we plucked in the fields in the morning.

They also have 3 adorable dogs – Cyber, Raja & Llama. I overcame my fear of dogs a few years back thanks to Caesar & Sparky, but these dogs were so adorable that my wife and daughter who are normally scared of dogs fell in love with them instantly and were very comfortable.

With a fairytale house like this you may not want to step out – but if you do here are a few options to explore

  1. A short 3 hr trek to Jhandidhar from where on a clear day you can see the snow capped mountains of Uttarakhand. The peak also has a small Shiva temple and a Sadhu in a hut with his Dhuni
  2. A drive to Padampuri – 20 Km from Himalica , where on the banks of the Khalsa river is the ashram of Somvar Baba – 3 Hr trip. The Khalsa is one of the few himalayan rivers that flows North.
  3. A trip to Nainital for boating & lunch / dinner – 3 Hrs
  4. A day trip to Jageshwar and stop by at Kainchi Dham (Neem Karoli Baba) and a few other Ashrams / Temples
  5. A British cemetery that is considered spooky by many

Weather at Himalaica 

At 6500 feet – it was cold in Oct. We were lucky as the rains had stopped on the day we reached so everything was lush green. In early Oct the morning and evenings were 11 – 12 Degrees. In Dec – Jan they can get to Zero or below. Rarely snows here. Oct, Nov, Dec and April would be the best time to visit.

Getting to Himalaica 

Its a 1 hr drive from Kathgodam , its better to get down at Haldwani as Shatabdi takes almost 30 min to travel this 5 Km distance. Madhusudan is my regular driver – a friendly young man full of positive energy who is both a driver and guide. You can contact him at +91 9756930090. His rates are very reasonable.

How to contact Himalaica 

Suggestions to the Host 

Room rates are reasonable for such a splendid property. Should explore including breakfast  in the room rate and make Lunch / Dinner more affordable. Currently a family of 3 over Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner will spend 9K on food @ Rs 1000/- meal. Thats expensive. A more reasonable rate would be Rs 500 for Veg and Rs 750 for Non Veg.

Thats Llama & Cyber. They are great buddies. Raja is slightly older and is a loner. 

 

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Experience Punjabiyat – The essence of Punjab in 4 Days

11 Apr

When you think of Punjab you immediately conjure an image of big brave fun loving people. Colourful dresses, Bhangra, Paneer, Butter Chicken, Patiala Peg and the Brave Sikh soldier are instantaneous connections. The food bowl of India nestled between the fertile valleys of the 5 rivers has been the first line of defence against the country’s invaders.Punjab is unique and ever since my 1st visit to Amritsar 4 years back I have been wanting to take the family to experience the essence of Panjibayat.

We had 4 days to experience the charm of Punjab. We spent two days in Amritsar and 2 days at a rustic and sylvan farm stay called Punjabiyat – about 90 km north of Amritsar. If you want to experience the charm of this wonderful state – I urge you to follow this program.

Indigo has a direct flight from Bangalore that reaches Amritsar at 1.30 PM and you are in your room comfortably by 3 PM. Amritsar, historically known as Ramdaspur derives its name from the Amrit Sarovar which was built by Guru Ram Das. It’s a small city that is now expanding rapidly. Located on the border of Pakistan, Lahore is considered its twin city. Amritsar is famous for 4 Things all of which and more you can cover comfortably in 2 days

  • The Golden Temple
  • Attari Wagah Border
  • Jalianwala Bagh (Memorial centenary in 2019 – April 13th)
  • The best Kulcha’s in the country

The Golden Temple is India’s most well managed and clean temple. It caters to large crowds especially on the weekends and festival days. Its serene, calm and beautiful inspite of the crowds. Plan a visit in the morning and in the night when it is lit up and don’t forgot to offer your services and eat a meal at the Langar. It’s a miracle how they serve so many people.

The area around the temple has been done up like a walking heritage corridor – The cobbled pathways are broad, clean, well maintained with shops selling food, trinkets, and clothes on both sides. There are many hotels also walking distance from the temple. The locals recommend a place called Saragarhi Niwas (www.sgpcsarai.com) – Room rent Rs 1100/- a day. email sgpcsarai@gmail.com, Phone – 0183 – 2550060 which is located less than 100 m from the Golden Temple in the heritage corridor.

Jalianwala Bagh is  located right next to the Golden temple. Sadly the current state of maintenance does not do justice to the history it narrates.

The Attari Wagah border is 30 Km from Amritsar, a 45-minute drive. Every evening there is a flag retreat ceremony that is jointly coordinated by the BSF and Pakistan Rangers at around 530 PM (Time varies by season). This half an hour show attended by nearly 10,000 people can be an adrenaline boost to your nationalistic spirit. It’s a must watch for every patriot and its FREE. To get front row tickets you need a VIP pass from someone in the BSF / Army which we were lucky to get. Even without  a pass you can get a decent viewing spot from the gallery that is built like a stadium.

And you can wrap up your Amritsar stay by shopping for Ladies Suits, Masala, Papad, Vadiyan, Sweets, Bangles…. Almost all the shops can stitch your dresses in 24 hrs and have them delivered at your hotel. In the two days you spend here you will also have time to visit the ancient Durgani temple (Under renovation) and the Mehramgarh Fort. Most people also spend an evening at Sada Pind – which is like a the Choki Dani of Jaipur creating a rural feel.

Do all that but keep time to visit the food joints of Amritsar. The Kulchas & Parathas here are the best in the Country. A few places you must visit are Bhai Kulwant Singh Kulchian Dhaba for breakfast and  and Kesar Da Dhaba for Lunch or Dinner. Kulcha Land is another highly rated joint. The street Jalebi and Gulab Jamun is also very tasty. Paneer here is soft and succulent. And don’t miss the Lassi. Food is fresh, delicious and economical. But its rich and servings are large. All these shops are in the bye lanes of old Amritsar and are accessible by walk or e Rickshaws only. We were told that the Amritsari Fish and Butter Chicken is equally popular but being vegetarians, we did not taste them. (Note Bharwan da Dhaba although recommended by some was disappointing. Brothers Dhaba is another place you can visit for Breakfast. Breakfast joints open only by 8 AM)

From Amritsar we headed to Punjabiyat – a Rustic Rural Resort which is in Gurdaspur Dist north of Amritsar. A great place to experience the essence of real Punjab. It’s a short 90 min drive from Amritsar (excellent Roads) and is located in the midst of a vast expanse of agricultural fields. We visited on April 10 and the fields were laden with the Golden produce of wheat – ready for harvest after Baisakhi in a week’s time. The weather was pleasant even in April. This is fertile land close to the Beas river and they grow Wheat, Rice, Sarson and Sugarcane. If you come in Dec you can see the Sarson in full bloom- and that will indeed be a pretty sight. It does get cold in Dec but that adds to the charm of the holiday.

Panjabiyat is Rustic Luxury. Its small, exclusive and efficient. There are 4 well-appointed cottages. Each Cottage has a large room, a very large airy bathroom, a nice sunny balcony facing the fields and a terrace that is accessible. The ceiling height is about 15 feet and the rooms are bright and happy. The furniture is all you need and more – solid wood. Room is large and can easily accommodate 3 adults – or 2 Adults + 2 Children. The walls, the furniture, the look and feel are rustic, warm and welcoming.

 

The hospitality & service is excellent and food is custom made. We loved the food – it was fresh, hot and delicious with lots of variety. It is a small property with a common hall and a portico where they serve meals and you can get together with your friends for a drink, play carom or listen to music. They also have a small Library tower where they can set up a romantic breakfast. This is a great place for you to come with 2 – 3 family friends. Ideally book the whole place for 2 days and enjoy the solitude, the food, the ambience and the warmth of the place.

Do take time to step out and visit the neighbourhood and some historic Gurudwara’s all of which are accessible by walk along the fields or by a tractor ride. A walk thru the fields can bring memories of William Wordsworths “A Solitary Reaper’.

Kids may be fascinated with the milking of cows – but what really excited us was seeing how jaggery was made out of Sugar Cane. A family of 4 in very humble surrounding were working hard to crush the juice and process it across boiling vats to make fresh tasty Jaggery. Freshly made Jaggery tastes like Mysore Pak – it is warm and delicious. We also visited a rice mill and saw mountains of sparkling rice being separated from the chafe by automated machinery.

To enjoy Panjabiyat you must love nature and solitude. It’s perfect for a 2-day break. Don’t expect too many thrills and action. There is no TV and the 3G signal is weak. Which is good because you get family time. Go for long walks. Take a ride in a tractor.

 

Punjabiyat is a great place to Detox. Be with nature. Smell the earth. Listen to the birds. Use the time to read and meditate. Or just sit quietly by the Beas river and ponder and reflect on life and thank the good Lord for all his blessings and Grace. Come alone, come as a couple or just use this time to connect with family and friends. Punjabiyat is definitely an offbeat property worth visiting.

For more details Visit https://www.itmenaanlodges.com/punjabiyat/

Taxi : For the entire trip you can contact Mr Pandey. He is an ex BSF Commando and if you book your trip with him he can even help you with passes for the Attari Wagah border program. He can be reached at +91 9463521098. Even though we had passes from my Army friend he helped us in getting better seats using his BSF clout.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Discovering Madanapalle & The Satsang Foundation – Sri M

23 Mar

A short 3 hr drive (120 Km from Bangalore) is the town of Madanapalle.Head to old Madras Road and after the 1st toll near Hoskote take a left and get off the highway.  Madanapalle is  famous for its mangoes, fruits  and vegetables and is  the biggest tomato market in Asia. Horsley Hills the highest point of Andhra – a hill station is just 25 km from here. Set in the midst of the E Ghats, rocky hills and lakes the landscape is rustic and captivating. If you leave Bangalore at 5 AM you can be blessed with a divine view of the rising sun as you drive into Madanapalle.

This is also the place where Rabindranath Tagore translated  “Jana Gana Mana ” from Bengali to English and set it to music in  1919 to the now familiar tune.Madanapalle is also the birthplace of Jiddu Krishnamurti the famous Philosopher, Writer and Speaker

My purpose of visiting was to stay at the Satsang Foundation – the HQ of Spiritual Guru Sri M. Sir is a living Yogi, a spiritual guide, social reformer and educationist. I had read his autobiography about 6 years back and met him at a discourse on Karma Yoga. His presence was electrifying. My first two visits to the Satsang Ashram were day trips. It was during my last visit (Thanks to a good friend for making that happen) that I had the joy of meeting him in person. He suggested that I  visit the Ashram frequently . This was my first trip where I spent 2 days at the beautiful ashram.

Its a small and divine ashram. The centre piece is the Shivalaya – which is a serene place housing a statue of Ganesha , Shiva Linga, and the Sri Yantra besides a beautiful peepal tree. This is where the group meetings and the functions are held.

ashram

There are two energised meditation rooms – the Babaji meditation room even in the summer heat felt cool and comfortable. These are powerful centres and a 30 min session here feels like meditating for  hours.

The rest of the Ashram has rooms , a dining hall, a meeting room and the administration office. The rooms are spacious, airy, clean and functional. Bathrooms have W Toilets and hot water. Many who revere Sir as their Guru have built their houses in the Ashram. Sir also has his house here. The Foundation  runs a school and a healthcare centre that are alongside. This is not an Ashram where you will be woken up with devotional songs nor are there evening Bhajans. The place was almost empty – its a place to go within and connect with your inner self.

Ashram

The Satsang Vidyalaya – provides free, high-quality, multi-lingual education to rural children from the tribal areas of Andhra Pradesh. I met the school principal as he was waiting at the gate welcoming the students. It was a joy to see the high energy students trooping in  – some walking , some cycling and some running in at the last minute, all of them stopping by and greeting us Good Morning . The school was spotlessly clean. Most of the teachers have a Masters degree , many are B Ed and one of the volunteers is a microbiologist from Harvard. The students are mainly from the local Lambada community.

Satsang Vidyalaya

The Satsang Swasthya Kendra is a very well stocked, well managed centre. Run by an efficient doctor and her competent  team – the place is spotlessly clean and feels like it was inaugurated yesterday. But its been there for over 5 years delivering excellent service to the local community.

The ashram also has a woman self help centre – but it was closed and I couldn’t visit them. The Admin office has an excellent stocks of DVD’s and Books – Sri M communication is simple and lucid and his explanations of the Upanishad and Bhagwad Gita is a joy to listen. I stocked myself with almost all that they had to offer.

Books

The food at the Ashram is simple and Sattvik. You will love it.

Madanapalle

I spent a lot of time at the Ashram – but I also had time to go with Dr Priyam and her team to the villages nearby. Our first visit was to a mobile health camp run by the Govt of Andhra with the Piramal foundation. I was impressed with the process and the efficiency with which this camp was run. Cheers to the committed team of doctors and their support staff.

Madanapalle

Our second visit was to the Satsang rural school that imparts education to about 30 children. This is located 12 km from the Satsang Ashram. This is where you see the difference between city children and the rural kids. There was so much joy and happiness in the little things they had. Intelligent , sharp kids with great life skills – but sadly at a disadvantage from day 1. The Satsang foundation has clearly identified the two pillars for India to succeed – Education & Healthcare, without that India cannot progress.

Satsang rural school

I also found time to visit the local village market (Tue is the day to go) and eat the tastiest Idlis and Vadas at CAM’s idli. Needless to say a plate of idli , Vada and Dosa cost me less than Rs 50/-.

idly house

A 20 min drive from the Ashram is a beautiful Shirdi Sai temple on the Kadiri Byepass road. Its spotless clean and has a live “Dhuni”.

temple

Places I could not visit

Mallaiah Konda – which I was told is a beautiful place with an ancient Shiva temple. This is a hillock located off the road from madanapalle to Bengaluru. This is a hillock with a large monolith at its peak. On top pf this peak is a temple of Mallikarjuna Swami (Shiva). One can reach this place by taking a left turn near Vempalli village, while travelling from Madanapalle to Bengaluru. Luckily, the place is still pristine even though it is located near the town. It offers beautiful views of Madanapalle town. One can also see the surrounding Mahamalleshwara hills. The flat area found on peak of the hillock is an ideal location for stargazing during clear nights – best in summers.

Obalesh Temple: A Vishnu temple located on the same road, but still farther towards Bengaluru. This place is located inside the state of Karnataka very near to the border it shares with Andhra Pradesh. It belongs to the rayalapadu panchayat. Unlike the malliah konda, this temple is not on a peak, but is nestled between two tall hills. A good place for silent contemplation. Every Saturday bhajans happen in the temple from morning 7 to 10 am. There was another Vishnu temple I saw atop a hill from the Ashram – this is a trek with about 600 steps.

Rishi Valley – Once a drought ridden valley, but now a throbbing forest. Thanks to the Krishnamurthi foundation which has taken upon itself the task of afforestation in this valley and has done it successfully. Rishi valley is famous for the School. but, deep inside the valley one can find pristine locations, which I feel, equally deserve the fame. One such location is the Enugu Mallamma cheruvu. A natural percolation pond. One can enjoy a swim in the pond and also enjoy the view of surrounding hills.

Peepal Grove School (PGS) – a residential school run by the Satsang Foundation – It is one of the few schools providing alternative education in India.

There is also an organic farm close by that merits a visit. Horsley Hill may be worth exploring – I am told that during weekdays its empty.

The weather in Madanapalli is excellent between Oct & Feb. Summers can get hot. The area gets only a few showers every year and water is a challenge. There were no power cuts when I was there and I was told that things have got a lot better in the last few years. The network is decent – Airtel 3G works but Jio doesn’t.

 

For more details : http://satsang-foundation.org

 

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Discovering Kolavara Heritage and the sights enroute

5 Mar

The Equation – 54 Hrs , 1054 Kms ( 400 Km Ghat Roads) , 5 Ancient temples 1000 – 3000 years old , the beauty of Malnad, Discovering Kolavara Heritage and the lovely W Ghats – All of this for Rs 8000/ person.

This was the second trip that Subhashish and me were making ( our first was to Chidambaram and Kumbakonam in 2017 Feb) – and we accomplished a lot between Fri 2.30 afternoon when we left E City and reached Bangalore at 11 PM on Sun night.

First the key discoveries 

  • A wonderful homestay nestled deep in the W Ghats at Malnad – the Kolavara Heritage was the find of this trip. Thanks to Bharti & Ravi for letting us know about this lovely place.
  • There is more to Hoysala temples than Belur & Halebidu – we discovered two amazing temples , well maintained , almost empty buzzing with energy
  • After “Roti – Kapda – Makan” the buzz word for elections over the last 10 years has been “Bijli – Sadak – Pani”, looks like we have accomplished our goals on that front. We zipped past 1000 Km across remote regions and the road condition was excellent. The bathrooms were clean and we never had electricity or water problem anywhere. For 2019 Modi needs to coin a new slogan. Finally our temples are sparkling  clean and very well maintained. The Sringeri temple is spotlessly clean and so were all the others that we visited.

Lets start with Kolavara Heritage – a beautiful heritage property that is managed by the family over the last 180 years. Nestled deep in Malnad its about 350 Km from Bangalore ( a 7 hr drive ) and 2 hrs from Chickamgalaur. A lovely homestay with 6 rooms in a 25 acre plantation of Rubber , Pepper and Arekanut.

The whole ambience of the place is pure and pristine and there is an eye for detail on every single thing. The rooms are simple and functional but tastefully designed . The food is local and very very tasty. Service is excellent. This is a great place for all types of people. Its a great place for Digital Detox – you have everything but Mobile Signal.

  1. The honeymooners and stressed out folks who want to just relax and enjoy the soulitude amidst nature
  2. The Nature lovers who want to go on treks and lovely drives ( Jog falls is only a 100 Km away)
  3. Religious and spiritually inclined ( Sringeri is a 1 hr drive and Hornadu a 2 hr drive)

Best homestays near Malnad

All of this is very reasonably priced at Rs 2750 / person / night inclusive of Breakfast / Lunch / Dinner – now that is a steal at times when places like Orange County in Coorg charge you 30 K / night for a room. A great place to come as a group they have rooms in different configurations – 2 Beds , 3 Beds , two rooms joined together for a family of 4 and even a 6 bed combination for larger groups.

Rooms and amenities

We loved the place – and I am sure I will keep coming back here again and again to discover all the enchanting things in and around Kolavara Heritage. A big thank you to Nishchal & Vathsalya for hosting us and managing this place so well. For more details visit http://www.kolavaraheritagehomestay.com, Phone – 94803 30033

Best places in Malnad

The second big discovery was two ancient Hoysala temples enroute. Most people when travelling to Chickamagalaur will visit Shravanbelagola, Belur & Halebidu. While these are beautiful and crowded places people are not aware that the Hoysalas built nearly 100 temples and many of them are in and around Hassan. (http://www.belurhalebid.com/hoysala-temples.php)

We visited two such rare jewels.

The Lakshmi temple at Doddagaddavalli ( a small village located off the Belur Hassan highway) is one of the oldest Hoysala temples. A Chatuskuta – 4 shrines it houses the main Shrine of Kolhapur Lakshmi and the other 3 are of Kali , Shiva and Vishnu. This is the only shrine where you have a life like statue of “Baital” in front of the kali shrine.  We visited this temple at 545 PM ( left Bangalore E city at 2.15 and drove straight here) – it was wonderful to be here with the setting sun. We had the temple to ourselves with the priest and were able to go inside the Sanctum Sanctorum and do our own private Arti.

The Lakshmi temple at Doddagaddavalli

The second temple we visited on our way back to Bangalore was the Veeranarayana Temple at Belvadi. This temple has three beautiful deities – Veera Narayana, Venugopala Swami and Yoga Narasimha. Large sculptures in shining black Saligrama with exquisite levels of intricacy – the priest mentioned that as per ASI the Lord Krishna statue here is considered the most beautiful sculpture all across India. The temple also has a  unique architecture – on March 23rd during equinox the rising sun casts its rays on the main deity crossing 7 doorways – demonstrating the level of perfection in design that the ancient rulers. The temple is almost always empty and if you find it locked call the priest who lives next door ( Prashant – 90350 41518) – he was very knowledgeable and his family has been managing this temple across generations. Both temples can be accesses thru Google Maps.

Veeranarayana Temple at Belvadi.

During this trip we also visited two important shrines – the Sharadamba temple at Sringeri and the Annapoorneshwari temple at Hornadu. 

The Sharadamba temple at Sringeri was consecrated by Adi Shankara around 800 AD. Its a 1 hr drive from Kolavara Heritage ( 4 hrs from Hassan and 2 1/2 Hrs from Chickamagalur). Majestic and spotlessly clean the complex houses 3 Temples – the main temple of Sharadamba ( Goddess Saraswati) , a Shiva temple and a temple decidtated to Adi Shankara. We were lucky to find it almost empty and had a great darshan. The deity of Sharadamba is majestic and full decked up exudes divinity and energy that is all encompassing – its a sight to see. They also serve lunch from 1230 – but we left at 1030 ( we drove straight from Hassan – leaving at 5.30 AM , reaching Sringeri at 9.30 AM )

Sharadamba temple at Sringeri

The Annapoorneshwari temple at Hornadu is said to have been installed by Sage Agastya. Its a long drive – winding roads and took us 2 1/2 hrs from Kolavara to reach. Managed by a family trust its nestled amidst verdant hills. We reached at 12 – worried that the temple may have closed but were lucky – this is one of the few temples that does not close in the afternoon. On the contrary they have a special Arti at 2.30 with maps lit – we could not stay back to see this , but our hosts at Kolavara Heritage said that was a must attend (Tickets for this come at Rs 500). We did not miss the Prasad here – lunch was a sit down meal of piping hot rice, sambar and payasam and it was very tasty.

Annapoorneshwari Temple

For other temples in the vicinity : https://www.sringeri.net/pilgrim-info/other-temples-nearby

The drive from Hornadu to Bangalore is almost 9 Hrs – including a 1 hr stop at Belvadi and a few small breaks for coffee. The entire stretch of roads after Chickamagalur is winding thru the ghats going up and down – this can affect even the strongest of stomachs. So be careful when driving with kids.

Parting Notes

We covered a lot in 54 hrs – this was all the time we had , but this itinerary is a 3 – 4 day trip. Plan for at least 2 days at Kolavara Heritage.

Spend a night at Hassan – that breaks the long drive – we stayed at Mallige Residency a lovely spanking new property – nice rooms and they have a pure veg restaurant. Rates were very reasonable at Rs 2750 for two http://www.malligeresidency.com

Sep – Feb is the best season to travel to Malnad , the rains can be severe , it would be wonderful to be here in Sep after the rains when the hills would be lush green and Jog Falls would be brimming.

Here is a list of things you can do at Kolavara Heritage ( All drives distance are 1 way)

  • 1/2 day trip to Sringeri 34 Km 1 Hr drive, there is a temple dedicated to the rain god close by called Kigga
  • Kundadri Hills – ancient Jain temple 38 Km 1 Hr drive – sunset view point
  • Agumbe – the forest with the largest concentration of King Cobras – Sunset View – Very close to Kundadri Hills. Agumbe also has connections with Malgudi days
  • Trek to Jamalie hills – 1 Hr trek from Kolavara
  • Kavale Durge – 1 /2 day trek
  • Plantation walk 45 min – 1 hr
  • Visit Poet Kuvempu birth place – 30 – 45 min ( 10 min drive from Kolavara)
  • Kochadri Hills – Original Deity of Mookambika is located – 72 Km
  • They have a swimming pool – a small one and bikes to ride around
  • Plan a trip with a few families – it would be more fun as a group.

Distances and Drive times 

  • Bangalore – Hassan 165 Kms – 3 Hrs ( Excellent food joints on the route – recommend Swati Delicacy 100 Kms from Bangalore , while driving from Bangalore comes on the other side)
  • Hassan – Chickamagalur – 65 Km – 1 hr
  • Chickamagalaur –  Kolavara Heritage, 100 Km – 2 1/2 hrs
  • Kolavara Heritage – Udupi – 85 Km
  • Kolavara Heritage – Managlore – 140 Km

 

And one last thing on the history of Kolavara and mythology associated with it

The Genesis of name kolavara

View of a room at Kolavara

room at Kolavara

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Kurunji Estates – Lovely Home stay in Kodaikanal

7 Dec

This blog is not just about the beautiful homestay Kurunji Estates at Kodaikanal but also the power of positive energy in a team. I am a strong believer that if your energy balance is right everything works out well – against all odds. And if your energy system is blocked – then the best of planning doesn’t help.

We had planned our 3rd annual get away at Briar Tea Estate, Meghamalai – a beautiful home stay amidst tea gardens in Theni district. A place so remote and so beautiful its been on my ” Must visit ” list for a long time. Bookings were made months in advance – but a fortnight before when I was checking for directions found that the last 40 km road was totally broken down and would take 3 – 4 hrs. We ended up cancelling this and the kind people refunded us 100% ( against their standard policy) . We then tried a remote log house called Kuteeram at Chickamagalur – but the property owner never sent us a payment link or responded to messages and calls ( I am glad this did not work out as there was a political clash in that area during our travel days) and finally by sheer coincidence we got lucky the 3rd time and booked Kurunji Home Stay at Kodaikanal thru Saffron Stays.

Saffron Stays is a portal that lists excellent Home Stays all over India – the experience of booking and follow through was excellent and very professional (https://www.saffronstays.com).

It was not just the booking – Other things went wrong too . The Sat / Sun / Mon Holiday had to be changed to Fri / Sat / Sun in the last minute , flights got delayed and even a UBER pick up from Bangalore airport was delayed by 30 min – and we finally left Bangalore at 2 PM. Add to this Cyclone Okhi was wreaking havoc on the TN / Trivandrum coast and there were heavy rains and wind lashing in the Kodai hills. It was against this backdrop that we started off for a ~ 500 km journey , driving into the hills at night with an ETA of 11 PM.

But then when you have positive energy in the team – all of these vanish. We were greeted with blue skies and sunny days and a wonderful holiday.

The roads to Kodai are excellent – and even with pouring rain we managed 80 – 90 km/h on the wet stretches and 120+ km/h on the other stretches. Two short stops at 4PM and 8 PM was all we had – but the long journey melts when you have a good vechile (Innova) and more importantly good company. This stretch across Salem – Karur doesn’t have branded eateries on the way and the quality of restrooms are disappointing.

As we drove up the hills at 9.30 PM we saw many a large oak on the ground but fortunately nothing blocked us and as we reached Kodai to pay the entry toll the electricity  came back in the town. Google maps was accurate and we walked into the warm and homely Kurinji estate at 11 PM for a wonderful and tasty meal. This home stay is a large 1930’s Thanjavur Bungalow with 8 rooms . It is maintained by Natarajan and his wife. The property is owned by Advani Orlikon and till recently was a company guest house. It has been opened to guests in 2017.

 

A 9 acre property it is rustic and peaceful. Clean , warm and homely. Hot water , heaters , neat towels , customised food as per your choice , a nice big TV , Carrom …. perfect place to come as a group or with a few families and friends. It is affordable as a double room costs Rs 5000/- + tax and the food is very reasonable.

At ~ 7000 feet Kodai is one of the highest hill stations in India. The drive from the foothills to the top is almost 75 Km and takes 90 min ( this when the roads were empty). Like most Indian Hill Stations there is nothing much to do in Kodai – barring the regular boating , horse riding and a few frequently visited spots. This was my 3rd trip to Kodai and thanks to Cyclone Okhi Kodai was empty and all to ourselves but we stayed away from the touristy spots. (All we did was a walk by the lake)

But we did visit two off beat places

The Kuzhanthai Velappar Temple (A temple of lord Muruga)  has three thousand years of history and was consecrated by his holines Bhogar. Its in a small picturesque village clued Poombarai – 20 km from Kodaikanal.

Bhoganathar or Bhogar was a highly evolved Siddhar and is considered to be the guru of Babaji. (http://palani.org/bhogar-biography.htm). Its a small but highly energised temple – no crowd.  Located in the Palani hills it is considered a sub temple of the main Palani temple. It was again a coincidence that I visited the temple on the Karthikai function

15 km from this temple is a the beautiful Mannavanur grass lands and a pristine lake – the location for many a film shoot. This place is beautiful – fresh air , almost empty and you can soak in pristine nature. The place also has a central govt sheep research centre. Lucky sheep.

Visiting these two places is a day trip – depart Kodai at 9.30 after a heavy breakfast and you are back at 3,30 for tea and snacks – we skipped lunch as the breakfast was heavy. After a tasty snack of Pakodas and Chai – which was perfect in this weather we headed out for a long walk to the Kodai lake and were back by 7 PM to enjoy the warmth of the lovely fireplace.

It was Dec and just after heavy rains – but Kodai was barely 10 Degrees. Not very cold. The effects of Global warming are evident. The same place 20 years back would have been close to Zero.

The next day we left at 10 AM making a few stops to buy some fresh carrots.

A lunch stop at Karur at Shiva Muruga and a short tea break at Adyar Anand Bhawan a few hrs before Bangalore and we were back home at 7.30 PM. A great break and thanks to the divine powers and the positive energy of the team, everything worked out perfectly.

We will keep the tradition going, so 2018 is back to the Himalayas and we have been talking about this place called Narkanda in Himachal – again a beautiful homestay with cherry farms at 9500 feet. And 100 km from there is Sarahan. One of our team mates visits this place every Dec – so he knows that area like the back of his hand. Its tempting and we don’t know if we can wait till Nov 2018 !

Finally a big thanks to Natarajan and family and Saffron Stays for making this trip a successful one.

 

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Tiruchi Temples in 3 Days

3 Nov

S Indian and specifically Tamil Nadu is a treasure house of Temples. Having covered Chennai, Kanchipuram , Mahabalipuram, Chidambaram, Kumbakonam and Tanjore – Tiruchi and Rameshwaram were the two prominent ancient cities in our pending list. And we finally covered Tiruchi extensively in 3 days.

A few things that made this trip very satisfying 

  • Amazing ancient temples thousands of years old – architectural & spiritual masterpieces – very well maintained
  • Good Hotel centrally Located – and great food
  • Excellent people all thru – from the drivers , porters , staff at restaurants , people at the Temple, companions in the Train – we met good human being all through our trip
  • Excellent weather ( It was pouring in Chennai as the NE Monsoon had just started – but Tiruchi 330 Km was pleasant and cloudy)
  • But the biggest WOW moment to me was discovering the Samadhi of the great Saint Patanjali who wrote the Yoga Sutras – Nobody knows about this – in an ancient temple in a small village in the suburbs of Tiruchi – more of that later.

So if you plan a trip to Tiruchi this Blog will be useful 

How to reach – where to stay

16232 Mayiladuthurai Express is the only Train from Bangalore to Tiruchi. It covers the ~ 350 KM distance in over 8 hrs reaching Tiruchi Junction at 4 AM. (return timing is more convenient – Dep Tiruchi at 8.30 PM and reaches Bangalore Cant at 5.06 AM) – It has one 2nd AC coach so book in advance.  Tiruchi has 3 Stations – Tiruchi Fort, Tiruchi Junction ( TPJ) and Srirangam – this train stops at the first two stations. We got off at TPJ and reached our hotel KVM Hotels ( WWW.kvmhotels.com) by 5 AM – a 20 min drive. Its a new hotel with good rooms , excellent food and centrally located at Amma Mandapam, Srirangam. A well maintained double occupancy room is Rs 2300/-  inclusive of a sumptuous breakfast. It has 24 hrs check in – check out.  Its a pure veg hotel.

Plan for Day – 1 

After a tasty breakfast we started our day at 9 AM and headed to the Branhmapureeswarar Temple at Tirupattur a 20 min drive. This is an ancient temple ( please note all temples here are 100o years or older) dedicated to Lord Shiva – its unique as it has a sanctum of Lord Brahma in a meditative pose – people come here to change their fate for the good. This is also the temple where you will find the Samadhi of the great Sage Patanjali.

 

Branhmapureeswarar Temple

If you sit quietly for a few minutes next to this Samadhi you can sense the energy of the place. I am glad that this Samadhi continues to be a secret – that protects the sanctity and energy in this zone. But it is indeed a shame that in todays era of communication – hardly anyone knows of the Samadhi of Patanjali in India.

But there was more to come in this remote corner – a km from this temple is another ancient temple The Kashi Vishwanathan temple – This temple houses the Jivasamadhi of Sri.Vyagrapada, the saint with feet of a tiger. The priest informed me that the idols here are as old as 3500 years and praying here is the equivalent of going to Kashi. (This blog gives more details on this energised temple – http://drlsravi.blogspot.in/2012/05/sri-kasi-viswanatha-temple-at.html)

Jivasamadhi of Sri.Vyagrapada

On the way back we stopped at the Samayapuram Mariamma temple – By now it was 12 noon and we headed back to Tiruchi City to visit my mothers school ( she passed out in 1955 and was visiting Tiruchi after more than 60 years – This is the same school from where defence Minister Niramala Sitaraman passed out many years later) followed by lunch at Sangeeta’s and then we headed back for an afternoon nap.

Ramaswamiayya Education

We set out at 4 PM after tea and headed to another iconic temple – the Jambukesawarar and Akhilandeswari temple at Thiruvanaikaval – a short 1 km from our hotel.

This temple is significant – Its an ancient Shiva temple dedicated to the Water Element. I had Visited Kala Hasti in 1996 (Air) and over the last 20 years had visited Chidambaram (Space) , Thiruvanamalai (Fire) and Kancheepuram ( Earth) – and I was excited to complete the Pancha Bhoota circuit.

Places to visit in tiruchi

The temple is massive and the Shiva Linga has water oozing out from below. The Sanctum Sanctorum is small – do take the Rs 10 ticket that allows you enter the final enclosure. The temple architecture has evolved over 1000’s of year and it is a majestic temple.

Sanctum Sanctorum

A 10 min walk from the Shiva Shrine is the Devi Shrine of Akhilandeshwari – a very powerful goddess . This shrine closes at 5 PM and reopens at 6 PM – and we reached at 5.05 PM – so we had an hr to sit in the quiet space there and meditate ( fortunately the temple was empty with just a few people). After a very satisfying day we headed back to the hotel for dinner and rest.

Devi Shrine of Akhilandeshwari

Plan for Day – 2 

The morning of day 2 was reserved for the grand and impressive Ranganathaswami temple at Srirangam. A masterpiece. It is the largest functioning temple in the world with a perimeter of 4 kms, occupying an area of 156 acres. Its a temple town and there are many Agraharas ( houses and communities) within the temple town.

 

Ranganathaswami temple at Srirangam

Its spotlessly clean – thanks to the late CM Jayalalitha ( who was the MLA from Srirangam) and the Chairman of TVS Venu Srinivasan who have painstakingly restored and cleaned this temple – some say they cleared 65,000 tonnes of sand , debris etc from inside the temple over a few years. Recently UNESCO awarded the temple for its restoration work.

There are over 70 shrines inside – and it can get as busy as Tirupathi on some days but were were lucky to have it almost empty. The Rs 250 special ticket took us to the main Sanctum devoid of lines and we had an excellent Darshan. There was no pushing and haggling for money , the priest asked us to stay calmly for a great darshan.

I was fortunate – this was the 3rd viewing in 1 month  of  Lord Vishnu Vishnu resting on Shesha in the sleeping position – other recent ones were at Madhya Ranga in Shivanasamudra and at the famous Padmanabhaswami temple in Trivandrum.

Nobody knows how ancient this idol is – some say even Lord Rama came and prayed here – but the temple complex was developed by multiple kingdoms starting with Cholas. A lot of restoration has happened in the last 10 years making it a sight worth visiting.

Padmanabhaswami temple in Trivandrum.

A ten minute walk leads you to the Devi Shrine – and most people will head back after this. But do make a point to visit the Ramanujar Sannidhi . You will have to ask for this. Its a shrine dedicated to sage Ramanujar and his body is mummified with saffron and Camphor in a meditative pose. A very impressive Sage – he is big and saintly.

On an empty day it took us about 2 hrs to have a nice relaxed visit of this temple post which we headed to the Samadhi of Sadhguru Sri Brahma. Sadhguru of Isha fame talks about his life as Sri Brahma in his previous life. This is a small samadhi next to the highway and you would come here only if you are an Isha Follower.

Ramanujar Sannidhi

A 15  minute stop here and we headed to the city to visit a few more locations my parents had frequented 60 years back and then for lunch at Ajanta’s. ( the lunch at Sangeeta was far better)

Driving the bylaws of this ancient city we reached our next stop – the Rockfort Temple , the most iconic temple at Tiruchi. Its a 20 min climb – and fortunately the weather was pleasant at 2 in the afternoon to walk barefoot up this rocky outcrop. Enroute there are a few more temples – but they were closed in the afternoon.

 

places at tircuhi

This completed our morning circuit and we were back in the room by 2.15 PM.

At 4 PM we headed to an ancient Murugan temple at Vayalur located in a scenic village and were back by 6 PM at our hotel.

Plan for Day – 3

We headed out at 8.30 AM to the Malai Koil or Erumbeeshwarar Temple – again an ancient Shiva temple on a small hillock  with a lot of mythological significance. The Shiva Linga here is made of mud and hence not washed with milk and water.

Malai Koil or Erumbeeshwarar Temple

On the way we stopped back at the Jambukesawarar and Akhilandeswari temple at Thiruvanaikaval where the 12 Noon Puja is famous.  Lunch was at an Iyengar mess run by a Brahmin family – a simple homely affair.

Jambukesawarar

We had the evening free to ourselves – but the other famous sites to visit were far away ( if you have an extra day try and visit these places )

  • Viralimalai – 40 Km , famous for a Murugan temple and a Peacock sanctuary
  • Sri Kokarneshwar temple
  • Sittanavasal

Sittanavasal is a rock-cut  monastery or temple. Created by Jains,  it is called the Arivar Koil, and is a rock cut cave temple of the Arihants . It contains remnants of notable frescoes from the 7th century. The murals have been painted with vegetable and mineral dyes in black, green, yellow, orange, blue, and white. Paintings have been created by applying colours over a thin wet surface of lime plaster. Many evolved saints are said to have meditated here. Sounds beautiful – but its a full day trip. 

I went back to the Samadhi of Patanjali and Vyaghrapadar and was back by 6PM – well in time to pack up , settle our bills have an early dinner ( Note in temple towns Dinner is Tiffin) and head to the Station for our 8.30 PM Train. As we headed back it started drizzling – but the rain gods had been merciful to us.

We had an excellent driver – so reach out to him if you are travelling to Tiruchi , Ramesh – 98434 35991. It make s a lot of difference to have a local with you to navigate the town.

A big thanks to all the people who helped us plan the trip – we would have missed. a lot of things if not for their valuable inputs. We left on Mon night and were back home on Fri morning – 4 nights , 2 in the train and 3 days at Tiruchi – the total trip cost was Rs 25,000 for 3 people inclusive of 2nd AC , 2 Rooms , Car , Food  etc – that is very reasonable considering that in the recent past we spent 30K a night at the Taj Coorg.

Small towns are nice , people are simple , down to earth and trustworthy. Its just the weather – Tiruchi boils in the summer , Nov to Feb is the only time you can expect pleasant weather. the Cauvery that has flown for millions of years is on the verge of drying – the impact of the last 50 years has been severe my mother was able to see the change in her lifetime. Lets just hope that the rivers revive and Sadhguru’s Rally for Rivers is a grand success.

So that completes Tiruchi – we enjoyed it thoroughly, which gets me planning for my next trip to the historical town of Rameswaram.

 

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“Baevu – The Village” Nature Retreat near Bangalore

12 Mar

A few years back I had discovered Shreyas – a lovely nature / Yoga retreat at Neelmangala and called it Bangalore’s best kept secret. This week we discovered another gem ” Baevu Village” on Kanakpura Road – 2 hrs drive from Bangalore.

“Baevu” in Kannada means Neem Tree and this 30 acre property has over 1000 Neem Trees. Its a green eco spot with over 800 Mango Trees and a wide variety of vegetables, herbs, paddy & ragi grown in an organic farm. Set in a scenic landscape surrounded by hills and forests its an oasis of greenery and tranquility.

The property recently opened and is still undergoing expansion. Currently it has 10 cottages ( 12 more are planned shortly). A Cowshed is under construction which will provide fresh milk products with the farm produce. And a Spa + Conference rooms is also in the works.

Baevu Village is in the heart of rustic Kanakpura and designed to melt in with the local ambience. The Cottages are designed with a rustic look using materials that the locals use. The Taps and buckets are brass , switches are the old black round ones, the food is an excellent fare of a wide variety of S Indian dishes, the furniture is homely and blends  in with the rustic look of the houses and the property.

The entire property is run on Solar power with 105 panels generating 30,000 KW. This is a unique property – and if you are a nature lover like me in the quest of quiet places don’t miss this one.

This property scores high on all counts and with a little bit of effort from the owners can make it to the coveted Relais & Châteaux list

  • Design / Architecture / Landscape – 10 / 10
  • Service – 10 / 10
  • Value For Money – 10 /10

Its owned by the Avani group (Shashidhar a Builder and his wife a Landscape architect) – the property has been designed in consultation with a Swiss Architect.

As you walk around the property you can stand below the Neem Tress and hear the buzzing of the bees and numerous birds chirping and singing, watch the squirrel and the chameleon darting away and admire the massive Papiya’s and the freshly grown Bhindi’s & Tomatoes. You can see natures bounty without Urea and pesticides. That is reflected in the quality of the food – which is fresh and tasty.

The property is surrounded by the Karadi Gudda & Banantamari Reserve forests and there are nice short treks ( 2 hrs ). We did a morning trek starting at 7 AM and back by 9 AM. A short ride followed by a 30 min trek to a summit for a great view – we also spotted stones that looked like Menhirs from Asterix. The summit has a small rock cut image of Narasimha and local villagers pay their respects regularly here.

You also have activity in the retreat – TT , Volley Ball , Mud Volley Ball etc. The plunge pool is beautiful and the changing rooms are clean and awesome. Its perfect for a 1 night stay.

The rates are reasonable

  • Couple Cottage – 6722
  • Family Cottage – 8000
  • Extra Adult – 2990

We stayed in a. family cottage – its very spacious and can easily accommodate a family of four.  Comes with a nice sit out and a very large bathroom. Just be careful to not bang your head as the doors are low height like in olden days

Rates are inclusive of Taxes an all 3 meals (Breakfast , Lunch , Dinner , Tea , Coffee etc). If you want to order add ons they are not expensive (Veg Pakoda 90 , Masala Omlette 60 …. ) – the menu consists of Veg & Non Veg . There is no bar but you can carry liquor for consumption in the room.

We went in mid March on a full moon night ( Surprisingly all my travels happen around full moon nights – and I never plan it that way) – days were warm but it was very cool in the evenings. We will definitely plan a trip after the rains when the greenery will be all over and the water from the hills will flow and fill up the ponds.

But do add this place to your must visit weekend getaways in Bangalore.

PS – They also have a day visit program where you can leave Bangalore early have breakfast , lunch , roam around , spend time in the pool – all of this for Rs 905/ person

Other Information

  • Contact Details – Divya Kare – + 91 94482 86415
  • Website – http://www.avanileisure.com/baevu-home.php
  • Avani group has two other properties around Bangalore – Angana a 3 acre property near the Ravishanker ashram and Panchwati a wedding destination again on Kanakpura Road.
  • Google Maps will locate the place – roads are excellent – budget 2 hrs
  • Phone connection is decent you will get Edge connection – No Wi Fi
  • No TV in the rooms , No AC

Suggestions for improvement 

  • Please provide Coffee Tea before 630 – for early risers like me waking up at 430 and waiting till 630 for a cup of coffee was a sore point (Or keep a coffee machine in the room)
  • Keep Yoga Mats in the room
  • You need to plan some more activities so that people can spend at least 2 days – else your traffic will be restricted to Bangalore locals
  • Lunch and dinner was excellent – explore augmenting your breakfast menu with some more options ( the retreat was almost empty when we stayed – 3 / 10 rooms – and that may have been the reason for limited options at breakfast)
  • Please improve your website – the current one is not doing justice to this amazing property

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